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EDINBURGH TO PERTH BY RAILWAY.

By Granton and Burntisland Ferry. Station at Waverley Bridge, Princes Street. If the ferry be objected to, the tourist may reach Perth by Scottish Central Railway, via Stirling, in which way there is no ferry nor leaving of carriages.

Upon reaching Granton Pier, passengers leave the railway carriages and walk to the steamboat. The ferry, which is six miles broad, is crossed by the steamer in about half an hour. The northern pier of the ferry is at Burntisland [Inn: Forth Hotel], a village resorted to in summer for sea-bathing. The line skirts the sea-coast by Kinghorn (10 miles), near which place Alexander III. was killed by falling over a precipice. We now reach the town of Kirkcaldy (14 miles), in the vicinity of which is Raith House (Colonel Ferguson). Near Dysart Station (16 miles), is Dysart House (Earl of Rosslyn). Thus far there is a pleasant seaward view, but now the line strikes off into the interior to Thornton Junction, where a branch to Dunfermline, Alloa, and Stirling diverges.

Continuing northwards by Markinch, we reach Falkland Station (24 miles), three miles from which are the ruins of Falkland Palace. "The remains of the palace," says Mr. Billings," are a diminutive but singularly beautiful fragment, justifying the boast that all the Scottish royal residences, though not of great extent, exhibit remarkable architectural beauties. It has the appearance at a distance of being but an old mansion-house or fortalice, with its keep and parasitical buildings; but on a near approach, the lover of art, who can tolerate the northern renovation of classical architecture, in the blending of the Palladian with the Gothic, and the stunted baronial architecture of Scotland, will find much to enjoy in this fragment. The western front has two round towers, which are a diminutive imitation of those of Holyrood, and stretching southwards is a range of building with niches and statues, which perhaps bears as close a resemblance to the depressed or perpendicular style of the English semi-ecclesiastical architecture as any other building existing in Scotland. The east side again is diversified by the renovations of classical architecture which have just been mentioned. The parts

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wanting to complete the quadrangle were destroyed by fire in the reign of Charles II. No portion of the present edifice appears to be of great antiquity, but at a very early period there must have been a fortalice at Falkland." It was in Falkland that David Duke of Rothsay was imprisoned, and whose life was, for a time, sustained by a wet nurse conveying to him milk from her breast through a reed. On leaving King's Kettle Station (26 miles), there is visible on the left Nuthill House (Mrs. Tyndal Bruce), pleasantly seated at the foot of Lomond Hill (upon a conspicuous point of which a monument has been lately erected to the memory of the late Mr. T. O. Bruce by his widow).

At Ladybank Junction (27 m.), the line to Cupar-Fife, St. Andrews, and Dundee, branches off to the right, that for Perth to the left. On the right of Collessie Station (292 miles), and immediately after passing Inchrye, the valley of the Tay expands to view, and a beautiful prospect is afforded of the fertile Carse of Gowrie. Across the Firth, Castle Huntly, Errol, and Kinfauns, successively present themselves to the

eye.

In the clean and pleasantly situated village of Abernethy (37 miles), is a round tower about 74 feet high, resembling those of Ireland, 'which have so much engaged the attention of antiquarians. The Bridge of Earn (41 miles), is a sweetlysituated village, famous for its mineral wells of Pitcaithley. It possesses a ball-room, a library, and every other requisite convenience. Perth is four miles further.

ST. ANDREWS.

[Inns: The Royal; The Cross Keys. Population, 5107.]

The distance of St. Andrews from Edinburgh by railway is 44 miles, and the time taken about three hours; there are two or three trains daily.

On the right of Ladybank, are Ramornie House (Heriot, Esq.) and Crauford Priory (Earl of Glasgow). Near this is the village of Pitlessie, the scene of Wilkie's well-known picture, "Pitlessie Fair.” The painter was a native of this parish (Cults), of which his father was minister. On an eminence to the right of Springfield, is Scotstarvit Tower, on the Wemyss Hall property, and the town of Cupar

is on the left, the birthplace of Lord Chief-Justice Campbell, whose father was minister of the parish. The heads of Lawrence Hay, and Andrew Pitulloch, and one of the hands of David Hackstone of Rathillet, who all suffered during the wars of the Covenant, were buried in this churchyard, where a stone marks the place. A few miles further on, and on the right, are the ruins of Dairsie Castle, in which a Parliament was held in 1335. The antique church adjoining was built by Archbishop Spottiswoode of St. Andrews, about 1615. The romantic den of Durie (an interesting spot for geologists), and parish kirk of Kemback, are well seen from the railway station, after passing which we come in sight of the sea and the towers of St. Andrews. At Leuchars station passengers change carriages for the St. Andrews branch, which, crossing the River Eden, brings us, in about twenty minutes, to St. Andrews station. Omnibuses await the arrival of each train.

St. Andrews, one of the most agreeable and salubrious residences on the east coast of Scotland, was formerly a place of great importance, and was the seat of the primate of Scotland. It is entered at the west end by a massive antique portal-preserved unimpaired-its other extremity terminating in the ruins of the cathedral. The city abounds in curious antique houses, which were once occupied by persons of rank, both in church and state, and it has an air of seclusion not unlike some of the cathedral towns of England. The origin of St. Andrews is involved in obscurity, but it is justly believed to have been at a very early period the seat of a religious establishment. It was originally denominated Muckross. According to the common tradition, about the end of the fourth century it became the residence of St. Regulus, who was shipwrecked here. The ruins of a chapel and an entire tower, known by the name of St. Regulus, or St. Rule, are still to be seen near the cathedral. On the union of the Scottish and Pictish kingdoms, the name of the city was changed to St. Andrews. The famous priory of St. Andrews was erected by Bishop Robert, in the reign of Alexander I., about the year 1120. The city was made a royal burgh by David I. in the year 1140. The

*The chancel and apsis, or the old part of the parish church of Leuchars, is said to be the best specimen of Norman architecture in Scotland, and is supposed to have been built about 1100. The nave, or the portion used as the parish church, was recently taken down and rebuilt. About a mile to the east of the station is the fine old castle of Earlshall. It has a painted ceiling, and the walls of the great hall have been covered with curious maxims, one of which runs thus:

"A nyce wyf and a back door,

Oft maketh a rich man poore."

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charter of Malcolm II., written upon a small bit of parchment, is preserved in the Town Hall. In 1471 St. Andrews was erected into an Archbishoprick by Sextus IV., at the request of James IV. At what time its church became metropolitan, is not known with certainty, but it must have been at a very early period.

The chapel of St. Regulus is, without doubt, one of the oldest relics of ecclesiastical architecture in the kingdom. The tower is a square prism 108 feet in height, the side of the base being 24 feet. A winding stair leads to the summit, from which a most delightful view is obtained. The stone of which this building is composed is of so excellent a texture, that although it has been exposed to the weather for so many centuries, it still remains quite entire and unimpaired. The chapel to the east of the tower, which was the principal one, still remains; but of a small chapel to the west, which formerly existed, there is now no trace.

The Cathedral was founded in the year 1159 by Bishop Arnold, but it was not finished till the time of Bishop Lamberton, who completed it in 1318. This magnificent fabric was pulled down by an infuriated mob, excited by a sermon of John Knox against idolatry, preached in the parish church of St. Andrews, and the event is graphically described by Professor Tennant in his poem entitled "Papistry Stormed, or the Dinging Doun o' the Cathedral,” of which the following extract may serve as a specimen :

I sing the steir, strabash, and strife,
Whan bickerin' frae the towns o' Fife,
Great bangs o' bodies, thick and rife,"
Gaed to Sanct Andro's town;

And wi' John Calvin in their heads,
And hammers in their hands, and
spades,

Enraged at idols, mass, and beads,
Dang the Cathedral down.

I wot the bruilzie then was dour,
Wi' sticks, and stanes, and bluidy clour,
Ere Papists unto Calvin's power

Gaif up their strongest places;

And fearfu' the stramash and stour,
Whan pinnacle came down, and tow'r,
And Virgin Marys in a shower,

Fell flat, and smashed their
faces.

The length of the building was 350 feet, the breadth 65, and the transept 188 feet. The eastern gable, half of the western, part of the south side wall, and of the transept, are all that now remain.

The other religious houses in St. Andrews were the convent of the Dominicans, founded in 1274 by Bishop Wishart; the convent of Observantines, founded by Bishop Kennedy, and finished by his successor, Patrick Graham, in 1478; a collegiate church, which stood immediately above the harbour; and a priory. Slight vestiges of the latter, which was the most important of these foundations, may be traced to the south of the cathedral. It was of great extent, and richly endowed. Its boundary wall is still nearly entire, and seems

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