of Titans seem to be commanded by their appropriate chieftains the frowning mountain of Ben Lawers, and the still more lofty eminence of Ben More, rising high above the rest, whose peaks retain a dazzling helmet of snow far into the summer season, and sometimes during the whole year."*

A pleasant excursion may be made to the Falls of Acharn, a cascade two miles from Kenmore, and half a mile off the road on the south side of the loch. It appears to be about 80 or 90 feet high, and from the " Hermit's mossy cell" there is an excellent view of the fall.

KENMORE TO KILLIN-(16 miles).

Leaving Kenmore, the tourist generally proceeds along the northern shoret of Loch Tay.

About midway is BEN LAWERS (3984), one of the highest mountains in Scotland, and the loftiest in the county of Perth. It is composed mostly of micaceous schist, but its surface is remarkably verdant, and perhaps no mountain in the Highlands produces more alpine plants. Unlike most of the other mountains of the Grampian range, it does not consist of a single mass, but is divided into several eminences, each of which is distinguished among the people of the country by appropriate names. These eminences are united in their lower regions, and rise from one wide-spread base; their summits crowd round a lofty central peak, but not more than two of them can be seen with advantage from Loch Tay; its majestic features nevertheless stand almost unrivalled among the

* Fair Maid of Perth.

The southern road is occasionally preferable, on account of the opportunity it affords of visiting the falls of Acharn, above described, and of the view it commands of Ben Lawers. It is two miles longer and considerably more hilly, but to counterbalance this, it has only one toll at Killin while the other has three. About 6 miles from Kenmore by this road, at a place called Tomnadashin, are to be seen copper mines, wrought in the greenstone, and 3 miles up the hill at Corriebute are lead mines in primitive limestone and mica formation. These mines have been worked by the Marquis of Breadalbane for about 15 years. About 7 miles from Kenmore is Ardeonaig Free Church; and about a stone-throw below the road, the Kidd burn falls over a precipice 50 feet high. Here also there is a comfortable little inn (nearly half way between Kenmore and Killin), where boats may be had for salmon and trout fishing. There is also a ferry across the loch 1 mile broad, charge 6d. From Ardeonaig the tourist may visit the falls of Spoutrollie, which are 5 miles up Glen Leadnaig.

mountains of Scotland. The ascent, which takes about two hours, may be made conveniently from Lawers Inn, at the foot of the hill, where there is good accommodation. At Lawers there is a ferry to the south side of the loch, charge 6d.

The road winding along the foot of this mountain affords a fine prospect of the scenery at the head of the loch, where, beautifully seated on the banks of the Dochart, near its junction with the Lochy, is the straggling village of

KILLIN.

[Hotels: Street House, A. M'Tavish's; and 1 mile north from Killin is Bridge of Lochy Inn.]

A little above the village the Dochart rushes over a rocky bed and encircles two islands, one of which, covered with magnificent pines, is the burial place of the MacNabs. From the upper end of the lower island there are three bridges across the stream. On the north side of Loch Tay, and about a mile and a half from the village of Killin, stand the picturesque ruins of Finlarig Castle, an ancient seat of the Breadalbane family. The castle is a narrow building of three storeys, entirely overgrown with ivy, and surrounded by venerable trees, and immediately adjoining is the family burying vault. Fingal's grave, in a field to the north of the village, near the Free Church, is indicated by a stone about two feet in height.

From Killin the tourist proceeds westward up Glen Dochart, passing Luib Hotel, Achline House (Marquis of Breadalbane), Loch Dochart House (Mr. Place), and arrives at Crianlarich Inn. Here a road branches to the south through Glen Falloch (passing Glen Falloch House, Captain Campbell, heir-presumptive of the Breadalbane entailed estates), to the head of Loch Lomond, where the tourist may proceed to Glasgow by steamer. From Crianlarich Inn the road also proceeds westward to Tyndrum Hotel, King's House and Fort William.*

KILLIN TO LOCHEARNHEAD, ST. FILLANS, COMRIE,

AND CRIEFF.

From Killin to Lochearnhead is 8 miles and to Callander 22 miles. On leaving Killin, by this road the tourist proceeds westward up Glen Dochart for about 2 or 3 miles to a place called Leeks, where he strikes southwards through Glen Ogle,

a narrow and gloomy defile, hemmed in by the rocky sides of the mountains, which rise on the one side in a succession of terraces, and on the other in a steep acclivity, surmounted by perpendicular precipices. On emerging from this we soon arrive at the village of

LOCHEARNHEAD,

where there is a good hotel (M'Rostie's).*

Loch Earn is about seven miles long; and from its depth, which is said to be 100 fathoms, it has never been known to

* From this a favourite route for tourists is by Loch Lubnaig and the Pass of Leny to Callander, 14 miles, or the Trosachs, described at page 225.

freeze. Good roads skirt both sides of the lake, but the northern is generally taken. About half way along the lake the southern mountain screen opens and discloses the huge Benvoirlich (the Great Mountain of the Lake), which rises to the height of 3300 feet. At the eastern extremity of the loch there is a small islet covered with wood, which was at one time the retreat of a desperate bandit sept of the name of Neish, whose depredations filled the neighbouring district with dismay.*

A mile and a half from the inn, on the southern shore of the loch, is Edinample, an ancient castellated mansion, belonging to the Marquis of Breadalbane. Connected with it are the shootings in Glenogle, and the rod-fishing in Loch Earn, which abounds with trout. Immediately below this house is a fine waterfall, formed by the Ample, a mountain stream, which in two perpendicular torrents flows over a broad rugged rock, and uniting about midway, is again precipitated over a second precipice. After passing along the bridge, a footpath will be observed on the left, leading to the best points of view below the fall.

Leaving Lochearnhead, and proceeding eastwards to Crieff (19 m.), the road passes at first through continuous woods of oak, larch, ash, and birch. About the middle of the lake is Ardvoirlich (Stewart), the Darlinvaroch of "the Legend of Montrose."+

*The Macnab having on one occasion sent his servants into the low country for provisions they were waylaid on their return, and the booty carried off to the island. Indignant at this outrage, a party of the Macnabs, commanded by the chieftain's son, vowed that they would exterminate the robbers before the dawn of the next day. Accordingly, carrying with them a boat from Loch Tay, they launched it on Loch Earn, and arriving at the den at dead of night, fell upon the robbers by surprise, and put them all to the sword. They returned to Killin the same night with the head of one of the chief robbers; and in commemoration of this event, the Macnabs assumed for their crest a bloody head, with the motto, "Dreadnought."

"During the reign of James IV., a great feud between the powerful families of Drummond and Murray divided Perthshire. The former being the most numerous and powerful, cooped up eight score of the Murrays, in the kirk of Monievaird, and set fire to it. The wives and children of the ill-fated men, who had also found shelter in the church, perished by the same conflagration. One man, named David Murray, escaped by the humanity of one of the Drummonds, who received him in his arms as he leaped from amongst the flames. As James IV. ruled with more activity than most of his predecessors, this cruel