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A little beyond the eastern extremity of the loch is the village and inn of St. Fillans-(Walker's). Formerly a wretched hamlet, known by the name of Portmore, it has become, through the exertions of Lord and Lady Willoughby D'Eresby, on whose ground it stands, one of the sweetest spots in Scotland. It derived its name from St. Fillan, the favourite saint of Robert Bruce, and one of whose arms was borne in a shrine by the Abbot of Inchaffray at the battle of Bannockburn. On the summit of a hill in this neighbourhood, called Dun Fillan, there is a well consecrated by him, which until lately was supposed to be efficacious in the cure of many disorders. The valley of Strathearn, which extends from this place nearly to Perth, contains many fine villas and wooded parks, and is celebrated for its beauty and fertility. Leaving St. Fillans, the Aberuchill Hills may be seen on the right, very grandly grouped, of which the highest peak is that

of Birron Hill.

The road now winds along the banks of the River Earn, through groves of lofty trees, presenting here and there broken glimpses of the ridges of these mountains. About 9 miles from Lochearnhead, we pass Dunira, the favourite seat of the late Lord Melville, with its picturesque grounds and delightful pleasure walks, now the property of Sir David Dundas, Bart., who has lately rebuilt the mansion on a site a little to the east of the old house, which has been entirely removed. A little farther on, Dalchonzie (Skene, Esq.) and Aberuchill Castle (formerly a seat of the Campbells, now the property of Sir D. Dundas, Bart.), are seen on the right. The latter was built in 1602, and was the scene of many sanguinary battles between the Campbells and MacGregors.

The village of Comrie [Inn: D. Sinclair] is pleasantly situated on the north bank of the river Earn, at its confluence with the Ruchill, and it is by many supposed to have been deed was severely revenged, and several of the perpetrators were beheaded at Stirling. In consequence of the prosecution against his clan, the Drummond by whose assistance David Murray had escaped, fled to Ireland, until, by means of the person whose life he had saved, he was permitted to return to Scotland, where he and his descendants were distingnished by the name of Drummond Eireanach or Earnoch, that is, Drummond of Ireland; and the same title was bestowed on their estate." For the story of Drummond Earnoch of James VI.'s time, see page 212.

the scene of the famous battle between Galgacus and Agricola.* It is also noted for the shocks of earthquakes that have been felt at it. Close to the village stands Comrie House (Dundas, Bart.), on the east side of which the Lednoch Water flows into the Earn, and half a mile to the south are the remains of a Roman camp. On the summit of a hill called Dunmore, a monument seventy-two feet in height has been erected to the memory of the late Lord Melville, overhanging a turbulent little stream called the "Humble Bumble," at the foot of which is a place called "The Devil's Cauldron," where the Lednock, at the farther extremity of a long, deep, and narrow chasm, is precipitated into a dark and dismal gulf. From the monument there is an extensive and interesting view of the adjacent country. A mile and a half beyond Comrie, we pass, on the left, Lawers House (the mansion of the late Lord Balgray, now of D. R. Williamson, Esq.), with a fine avenue, a mile in length, on the opposite side of the road. The parks contain some of the largest pine-trees in Scotland. A mile farther on is Clathick (Colquhoun, Esq.), and half a mile beyond (3 from Crieff), the road passes Monievaird Kirk. On an eminence to the south of this place there is an obelisk, erected in memory of Sir David Baird, Bart., the hero of Seringapatam (taken by storm, 4th May 1799), and close by, on the opposite banks of the Earn, nestles the snug mansion of Strowan (T. Graham-Stirling, Esq.), occupying with its park the site of the ancient village of St. Rowan, of which the name is a corruption. The road skirts the grounds of Ochtertyre for a mile and a half, and conducts the tourist to

Tacitus tells us, in his rapid powerful style, how fiercely Agricola was resisted by the Caledonian prince Galgacus, at the Mons Grampius or the Grampian Mountains. The site of the battle has been claimed for many spots, and there is no occasion to enter into the antiquarian merits of the several disputes on the subject; but one thing is clear enough, that in that amphitheatre of mountains stretching round from west to north, we have the chain of the Grampian Hills, which the Roman army desired to penetrate, and the Caledonians to defend. Nor are we without vestiges of Roman operations.

CRIEFF.

[Hotel: Drummond Arms.]

Connected with the Scottish Central Raliway by the "Crieff Junction" Branch line. 17 miles from Perth by road. Coach to Comrie, Lochearnhead, Killin. Population, 3824.

An ancient cross, of apparently great antiquity, in the middle of the central street, is worthy of notice.

The environs of Crieff include numerous rich and beautiful policies. The view from the Old Market Park, on the northern outskirts of the town, will satisfy strangers of the truth of this; and it is most gratifying to be enabled to add, that the neighbouring proprietors evince the most praiseworthy liberality in throwing open to the public the walks around their houses, and through their grounds.

It is but a few years since the mineral well on the lands of Cowgask, in the vicinity of Crieff, was discovered, but it has already acquired considerable celebrity. Its waters have been analysed, and found similar to the waters of our most favourite Spas. By an arrangement with Mr. Graham-Stirling of Strowan, the proprietor of Cowgask, an abundant supply of this saline water has now been obtained for Crieff, and a neat rustic well-house has been erected immediately to the north of the town, on a spot commanding a magnificent view of the surrounding scenery. The climate of Crieff differs from that of the Bridge of Allan (its rival), in the warmer periods of summer especially, the climate of the latter being close and sultry, while that of the former is always fresh, bracing, and invigorating.

The village of Muthill, with elegant new church and spire, is about 3 miles south of Crieff. The curious square belfrey of three unequal storeys, in some of the upper windows of which there are traces of Norman or Romanesque architecture, is an entire and interesting object of antiquity. The remaining walls and pillars of the old church, which is said to have been erected by Bishop Ochiltree of Dunblane (1430-45), are good examples of the architecture of the period, and under their shadow lie the stone effigies of some of the reputed lords and ladies of Strathearn.

Within a mile of Muthill, on the way to Crieff, is the entrance and fine avenue to Drummond Castle, the original seat of the noble family of Perth, and the property of Lord and Lady Willoughby D'Eresby. The ancient line is now represented by the present Earl of Perth.

This ancient castle, or rather "keep," was visited by Her Majesty on her first tour through the Highlands, on which occasion a pavilion was erected for the dining-hall, the accommodation within the building being but limited. Immediately in front of the principal face of the castle lie the flowergardens of Drummond, known to most florists in the kingdom, and a sight of which will gratify those who take pleasure in the art of landscape gardening.

Since Her Majesty's visit, this chivalrous-looking residence and domain have been improved with much taste. The donjon keep has been in a great measure restored, so as to harmonize with the surrounding scenery; while other enlargements and improvements have been projected by the fine taste of the noble proprietors, and carried out, in accordant spirit, by Mr. G. P. Kennedy, architect, Glasgow. The view from the battlements exhibits the renowned gardens immediately below, while, for nearly thirty miles round, there is an unbroken sweep of strath and forest and mountain, over which the dark grey turrets alone appear to dominate.

Ochtertyre, the seat of Sir William Keith Murray, Bart., is about two miles from Crieff. The view commanded from the avenue which leads to the house and from the garden around it, combines many attributes of landscape beauty. Wood and water, hill and dale, are charmingly balanced in the composition. The majestic Benvoirlich closes the vista to the west. On a rocky knoll to the west of the house stands the observatory erected by the present scientific baronet. Α ruined tower, the remains of a fortress erected in the thirteenth century by Comyn of Badenoch, stands on the bank of a sheet of water, called the Loch of Monievaird, near the mansion, and the adjacent vale of the Turrit exhibits a variety of romantic scenery, which has been rendered classical by the pen of Burns. While on a visit to Sir William Murray at Ochtertyre, he wrote the beautiful song "Blythe, blythe, and merry was she," on Miss Euphemia Murray of Lintrose, a lady

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whose beauty had acquired for her the name of "The Flower of Strathmore."

Monzie Castle, pronounced Monee (lately purchased by Mr. Johnstone of Lathrisk, etc.) is 3 miles north from Crieff, on the Amulree road. In the grounds behind the house are five old larch trees. The circumference of the trunk of one of these is 19 feet 7 inches at three feet from the ground. There is a fine waterfall near Crieff called Spout Hoick on the river Turrit. About a mile to the north, the river Keltie forms two cascades, the lowermost of which is called Spout-ban. The river Shaggie, too, makes three beautiful falls a little above the village, the uppermost of which is also called Spout-ban (white spout), a name common to many waterfalls in the Highlands.

The other seats in the vicinity of Crieff are Fern Tower (Lord Abercromby), Cultoquhey (James Maxtone, Esq.), Inchbrakie (Hon. Mrs. Græme), and Abercairney (Charles Home Drummond Moray, Esq.) The castle and chapel of Innerpeffray stand about three miles south-east of Crieff. The chapel, which presents some interesting pieces of architecture, is the burial-place of the Lords of Perth and Strathallan. In 1691,

a valuable library was founded and endowed here by David, Lord Madderty. About three miles to the northward of this are the ruins of the Abbey of Inchaffray, founded in 1258 by Malise, Earl of Strathearn. It was the abbot of Inchaffray who walked, crucifix in hand, through the ranks at the battle of Bannockburn, and exhorted the Scots to fight for their freedom. Near it are Gorthy (Mercer, Esq.), and Balgowan, the seat of the late Lord Lynedoch.

STIRLING TO PERTH.

By railway, 33 miles. Branch to Crieff, 9 miles.

Leaving Stirling, we proceed in the same way as described at page 200 to Dunblane. A short way beyond, on the right, is Kippendavie (Stirling, Esq.), and between the stations of Kinbuck and Greenloaning, on the right (eastwards), is Sheriffmuir, the scene of the battle which was fought in 1715 between the Earl of Mar, and the royal forces under the

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