miles across Loch Fyne to Inverary. Continuing round the head of Loch Fyne, five miles further, and almost exactly opposite Ardkinglass, are the ruins of Dunderaw Castle, a large strong tower of an irregular form, with small turrets above the angles in the walls. Above the gate is the following inscrip

tion:

1596.-I. MAN. BEHOLD. THE. END. OF. ALL. BENOUGHT, WISER. THAN. THE. THIESTES. I. TRUST. IN. GOD.

It is built close to the sea, from which it must usually have been approached. From this the tourist winds again round Strome Point, and crossing the river Shiray that comes down from the glen of the same name, reaches Inverary.

LOCH GOIL*

is an arm of the sea, six miles in length, from one to two in breadth, which branches off from Loch Long in a northwesterly direction at Argyll's Bowling-Green. Upon both sides the coast is bold and steep, and the hills high and craggy; but the wildness of the scenery is agreeably diversified by extensive natural woods of hazel, which cover the land near the coast, and rise to a considerable distance from the shore. The mountains have a very fine appearance from the loch, rising to a height of about 2500 feet above the level of the sea.

Carrick Castle, an old stronghold of the Dunmore family, occupies a picturesque position on the west side of the loch; the massive square building standing upon a low and nearly sea-girt rock, appearing the perfect embodiment of mediæval strength and influence. Behind it are a few straggling trees, one of them an oak of considerable dimensions. The age of this fastness can be traced only so far as the end of the fifteenth century, but it was probably built by the Danes. It was burnt by the Atholmen, and nothing now remains but part of the walls:

The distance from Arroquhar to Loch Goil-head is 12 miles (sometimes charged 14); by the footpath, which is very rugged, 8 miles.

"All ruin'd and wild is their roofless abode,

And lonely the dark raven's sheltering tree,
And travell'd by few is the grass-cover'd road,
Where the hunter of deer and the warrior trod,
To his hills that encircle the sea."-CAMPBELL.

As the steamer proceeds towards the head of the loch, the tourists may be reminded of Thomas Campbell's pathetic ballad of "Lord Ullin's Daughter," and of the poet himself, who drew much of his inspiration from his native Argyllshire. The wild tumultuous-looking mountains towering above, contrast strongly with the peaceful little village of Loch Goil-head lying at their base. From the pier these mountains are seen to great advantage. Looking westward, the most conspicuous, in the centre, is Ben-an-Tshelich; on the right hand, Ben Donich; above the wharf, the Steeple; and farther down the loch, on the same side, An Diolaid. On the opposite side of the loch is Ben Lochan, a steep conical mountain, its summit looking as if it would topple over; and Ben Bheula to the east of it, a massive mountain of irregular form. The village of Loch Goil-head contains a good hotel; and scattered along the shore are numerous handsome villas. On an eminence to the left is Drumsynie Castle (R. Livingston, Esq.) The burial aisle of the families of Campbell of Ardkinglass and Strachur, now form part of the parish church, in which are the remains of some of their tombs.

A four-horse coach runs in connection with the steamer from Loch Goil-head to St. Catherine's pier, opposite Inverary, a distance of eight miles; but the road is so steep and hilly, that a good pedestrian may outstrip the machine with little exertion. The road is carried through Hell's Glen, a wild valley running almost parallel with Glencroe, with which it communicates by a road that strikes off on the right, about three miles from Loch Goil-head. For four miles the road is a continual and steep ascent, affording picturesque glimpses of wild mountain scenery. At the fourth mile, at the height of 2400 feet, a road strikes off, on the right, to Cairndow Inn, and here the descent towards St. Catherines commences, disclosing the basin of Loch Fyne, with Inverary, the hill of Duniquoich, ruins of Dunderaw Castle, and neighbouring country.

At St. Catherines a steamer awaits the arrival of the passengers, and conveys them across the loch to

INVERARY.*

[Hotels: Argyll Arms; George. Population, 1064.]

The county town of Argyllshire stands at the lower end of a small bay, where the river Aray falls into Loch Fyne. It was erected into a royal burgh in 1648 by Charles I. while he was a prisoner in Carisbrook Castle, and has been for a long period the principal seat of the ancient family of Argyll, who have laid out large sums of money in improving and adorning the town and neighbourhood. Its situation is exceedingly beautiful. “The rival rivers Aray and Shiray, which pay tribute to the lake, each issuing from its own dark and wooded retreat, and on the soft and gentle slope that ascends from the shores is the castle, with its varied outline, embattled walls and towers. Dark woods for many a mile surround this ducal dwelling, and the eye may dwell on the picturesque peak of Duniquoich, starting abruptly from the lake, and raising its scathed brow into the mists of middle sky, while a solitary watch-tower is perched on its top like an eagle's nest." +

Inverary Castle, the seat of the Duke of Argyll, is the most interesting object in the vicinity, and was built on the site of the old castle, by Duke Archibald, in 1748, after a plan by Adam. It is constructed of chlorite-slate, and consists of two storeys and a sunk floor, flanked with round overtopping towers, and surmounted with a square winged pavilion. In the Hall are preserved about 100 muskets, which were "out in the Forty-Five," and in one of the rooms is some very beautiful tapestry. Duniquoich Hill, a

There are coaches from Inverary to Tarbet, Loch Lomond, and Oban, during the summer. The distance by coach to Tarbet is 24 miles; but by crossing the steam-ferry to St. Catherine's pier, the distance is only 20 miles, and any moderate pedestrian may overtake the coach which goes round the head of Loch Fyne by Cairndow. The coach takes five hours to the 24 miles, and the passengers have to walk a considerable portion of the way; the fare is 8s. each, so that a party of three persons would find it better to hire a drosky. The fare by the steamer across the ferry to St. Catherines is-cabin ls. ; steerage 6d.

+ Legend of Montrose, chap. xi.

When Robert Burns was at Inverary, he found the principal inn filled by a party on a visit to the Duke of Argyll, who engrossed all the attention of

conspicuous cone-shaped hill, 700 feet high, covered with wood to its summit, overlooks the town and castle of Inverary. It is reached by entering at the first lodge on the left from the hotel, and proceeding through the grounds, which, by the liberality of the noble proprietor, are open to the public, and where a guide is generally in attendance. The road, for part of the way, is up the valley of Glen Aray, which here presents rich meadows, interspersed with stately the landlord; and the poor bard, mounted on a sorry mare, without friend or lackey, was neglected. He avenged himself with unmerited bitterness, by writing the following lines on one of the windows of the inn,

"Whoe'er he be that sojourns here,

I pity much his case,

Unless he come to wait upon

The lord their god his grace;

There's naething here but Highland pride,

And Highland cauld and hunger;

If Providence has sent me here,

'Twas surely in his anger."

CUNNINGHAM's Burns.

trees of various kinds, and ornamented by several artificial cascades. After crossing it, a path winds round the hill to its summit, on which a small tower has been erected.

Inverary is an important station for the prosecution of the herring fishery-the herrings of Loch Fyne being celebrated for their superior excellence.

INVERARY TO OBAN, BY LOCH AWE.

The coach leaves every morning during the summer months, commencing usually in the middle of July until the end of September. It is advisable to secure seats as early as possible, at the hotel.

The drive is one of remarkable beauty and interest, and occupies about 8 hours. The Coach from Loch Lomond Head

The first portion of this road is carried along Glen Aray, with the river Aray running almost all the way on the right. After leaving the pleasure-grounds round Inverary Castle, there is little to attract attention until we reach the head of the glen and begin to descend towards Cladich,† when the beautiful expanse of Loch Awe breaks upon the view.

* Road on right to Tyndrum (12), and Loch Lomond (25 miles).

† Cladich Inn, which is situated here, is a very pretty spot, and a wellknown station for anglers frequenting Loch Awe and the streams in the vicinity.