It

numerous sea-lochs, of which Loch Aylort and Loch na Naugh are interesting as the melancholy scene of the commencement and conclusion of Prince Charles' unfortunate expedition. was here he first landed; and from which, after his defeat at Culloden, he was conveyed to France.

The steamer occasionally calls at Arisaig, where there is an inn, and from which there is a road by Locheil to Banavie, a distance of 34 miles. The scenery along this road is of the most romantic description, and if conveyances could be got, would be a favourite route.*

of the rock to the depth of 255 measured feet; the height at the entrance may be about 3 feet, but rises within to 18 or 20, and the breadth may vary in the same proportion. The rude and stony bottom is strewed with the bones of men, women, and children, the sad relics of the ancient inhabitants of the island, 200 in number, who are said to have been slain in the following remarkable manner: -The Macdonalds of the Isle of Eig, had done some injury to the Laird of MacLeod; the tradition of the isles says, that it was a personal attack on the chieftain, in which his back was broken, but another version bears, more probably, that the injury was offered to the MacLeods, for ill-using some of the young women. For this offence they were seized by the islanders, bound hand and foot, and turned adrift in a boat, which the wind and waves safely conducted to Skye. To avenge this insult, MacLeod sailed with such a body of men as rendered resistance hopeless. The natives, fearing his vengeance, concealed themselves in this cavern, and, after a strict search, the MacLeods went on board their galleys, after doing what mischief they could, concluding the inhabitants had left the island. But next morning they espied a man upon the island, and immediately landing again, they traced his retreat by the marks of his footsteps, a light snow being on the ground. MacLeod then surrounded the cavern, and demanded that the individuals who had offended him should be delivered up. This summons having been peremptorily refused, the chieftain kindled at the entrance of the cavern a huge fire, composed of turf and fern, and maintained it with unrelenting assiduity until all within were destroyed by suffocation.

* Although there are no public conveyances, yet we had a choice at Arisaig of a dog-cart with one horse or an excellent carriage that could be rendered either open or close with two, and this latter we found most comfortable.

For the varied beauty of wooded though rocky hills and fine sheets of water, both salt and fresh, we have seen nothing in Scotland to surpass the first part of the drive from Arisaig to Banavie. The whole way as far as Kinloch Aylort, about ten miles, is a succession of beautiful views, and in the autumn, the colouring of the leaves just in their richest tints, the brown ferns, the scarlet mountain ashberries, the dark rocks, and the blue water of the lochs are really gorgeous.

Beyond Kinloch Aylort the trees become fewer and the mountains more bare; the road rises considerably and descends again to Finnan Inn at the head of Loch Shiel, where the snow-clad summit of Ben Nevis come upon our view. From this point to Banavie, Ben Nevis was constantly before us, and we could judge of our progress by his appearing to tower higher and higher above us. We soon came to the head of Loch Eil along the shore of which the road (which

The steamer now enters the Sound of Sleat, and gradually nears the south-eastern shore of Skye, on which is situated Armadale Castle, the seat of Lord Macdonald, the largest proprietor in Skye, occupying a fine situation on a gentle slope, about a quarter of a mile from the shore. It is surrounded on all sides by thriving plantations, which, with the woods of Dunvegan in the district of Kilmuir, may be said to form the whole woodland scenery of the island. A little beyond it are the ruins of Knock Castle, seated on a rocky promontory pro

jecting into the sea, while to the right are seen the dark and massy mountains of Loch Hourn, which bounds on the north the estate of Knoydart, the property of Mr. Baird of Gartsherrie. Conspicuous in the range is Ben Screel, a mountain

is most excellent the whole way) runs. Here the hills are bare and comparatively unimposing, and though this part of the drive taken by itself would be beautiful and interesting, it seemed somewhat dull after the great beauties of the earlier part of the way. Altogether, however, we thought this a most pleasing and beautiful route to take in returning from Skye, we having taken a sailing-boat to Arisaig from Ardevaza, close by Armadale Castle. The time occupied by this passage in a favourable wind we found to be about an hour and a quarter.-Correspondent.

with a noble outline, ascending from the loch with a regular slope, and becoming grayer and more granitic-looking as it ascends, till at last its hoary head becomes one huge rounded stony cairn, piercing the clear blue sky. "Near the top of the first reach, on a level plain, backed by lofty hills, and sheltered by a grove of ancient timber trees, stands the house of Barrisdale. Here the loch turns off to the left, through a narrow throat obstructed by islands. The whole mountains around Loch Hourn are lofty and picturesque, sweeping down in grand lines towards the water's edge, often green where crags and copse are not prevalent, and covered by multitudinous flocks of sheep, chiefly white-faced or Cheviots, which, though worse mutton, are of hardier constitution, and produce more valuable fleeces than the black-faced kind. The summits are for the most part bare and rocky. Several houses, and a sprinkling of Highland hamlets, with a few fishingboats, are to be seen upon the northern shore, especially Arnisdale, a regular village, with a population of about 600 inhabitants."*

Proceeding northwards, we pass on the left the island and inn of Oronsay, from which a road strikes across to Broadford. We now enter the bay of Glenelg, abounding in bold picturesque scenery on both sides, and which on the north appears land-locked. The hills of Glenelg are extremely picturesque, and well seen on the right. At the village and pier of Glenelg are the ruined barracks of Bernera, built as a military station to maintain the authority of the Hanoverian government among the clans. At Kyle Rhea Ferry, a narrow strait with a current, there is a road to Shiel Inn, from the ferry-house on the east side,† and from the one on the west to Broadford. Loch Alsh, another arm of the sea, divides, at its upper extremity, into the lateral branches of Loch Ling and

* Wilson's Voyage.

†The alpine road from Kyle Rhea to Shiel Inn and Loch Duich, is carried over a mountain called Mam-Rattachan, and is a triumph of engineering skill, and very romantic. The views of Loch Duich from various points on the road are very striking. On the side of the hill ascending from Glenelg, a very grand view is obtained of Ben Screel and the other mountains of Loch Hourn.

LOCH DUICH.

[Inns Balmacarra Inn; Shiel Inn.* 63 miles from Inverness; 9 from Dornie Ferryj.

This loch, which forms the south-eastern branch of Loch Alsh, is a magnificent land-locked lake, with fine bold sweeping mountains, wooded on their downward slopes with rich low projecting points, and an enclosing background of high pyramidal mountains at its upper extremity. The northeastern branch of Loch Alsh is called Loch Ling, but Loch Duich is by much the finer loch, from its form and the greater height of the mountains.

The entrance to Loch Ling or Loung is narrow and crooked, and on its southern bank lies the neat fishing village of Dornie, where there is a ferry for the parliamentary road between Loch Alsh and Kintail. Upon an insular rock at the head of Loch Alsh are the ruins of the castle of Eilan Donan, the ancient stronghold of the Mackenzies of Kintail, and which was built in the time of Alexander II. as a defence against the Northmen. It is a bold keep. On the angle next the land there is a small hexagonal tower, or walled space, filled with water, probably the ancient well.

Proceeding onwards, we pass successively, on the right,

* The falls of the Glomak (said to be the highest in Scotland) are twelve miles from Shiel Inn, but their distance will be better understood by the time occupied by the journey, which is three hours' heavy walking. Returning takes two hours and a half. A guide is required, as no one otherwise could discover the path. As far as Mr. Matheson's shooting lodge (5 m.) the road is good and may be driven, but the remaining 7 m. are partly over a stony footpath, and partly through ferns, bogs, and heather. The ascent is steep and wearisome until within a mile of the falls.

Descending the vast and appalling-looking valley through which the Glomak water flows, we reach the ravine or gully down which it is precipitated. In dry weather the sight does not repay the toil of getting to it, and a great detraction from the fall at any time is the difficulty of obtaining a good position from which to view it, occasioned by the shelving of the rocks. Tourists are often taken to the head of the falls, from which they can only see a little water making its way down an awful abyss with a loud rushing sound. To see it properly, it is necessary to get to the bottom, but we do not think that this is practicable, or that its attempt would be by any means safe. The valley down which the Glomak water flows is bleak and desolate beyond description, and surrounded by mountains of the most formidable dimensions. If any one wishes to see a good specimen of the stern sublimity of Highland scenery, let him come here, but let him not expect much from the falls.

Balmacarra House (Alex. Matheson, Esq.), and Balmacarra Inn, beautifully situated; Old Loch Alsh House and Inn; and on the right, the ruins of Castle Moil.

The steamer now reaches

KYLE AKIN (Skye).*

[Hotel: The King's Arms, lately enlarged, and containing excellent accommodation; 8 miles from Broadford, 6 from Balmacarra. Horses and carriages may be hired; half fare returning, not generally charged. The mail passes the hotel door.]

Kyle Akin, with its substantial pier, is one of the best and safest landing places for tourists in Skye, and from it the objects for which the island is chiefly visited-the Spar Cave, Loch Coruisk, and the Cuchullin mountains-are most naturally approached. In the event of the tourist continuing his route by Loch Scavaig next day, he should send on his luggage by mail to Sligachan or Portree. He may at the same time send a note to the innkeeper at Sligachan regarding beds and ponies from Camasunary or Glen Sligachan. From Kyle Akin a boat may be got to Loch Carron and Jeantown, if it should be wished to catch the mail for Dingwall. The distance by water in this way is about twelve miles. Opposite Kyle Akin is Reraig Inn, from which the Skye mail is continued to Jeantown and Dingwall.

KYLE AKIN TO SLIGACHAN AND PORTREE.

By the Spar Cave, Lochs Scavaig and Coruisk, and Glen

Sligachan.

There is nothing particularly interesting in the road between Kyle Akin and Broadford, which is eight miles in length.

On leaving Broadford (by road to right of the inn, and by the side of the Broadford water), the bare peaks of Ben-naCaleach are seen on the right. As we advance, the magnifi* HOTELS AND INNS IN SKYE, GUIDES, BOATS, etc.

Numerous complaints have been received from tourists of the extortions practised in the Island of Skye, and to guard against this as much as possible, the information here given regarding Hotels, etc., is stated with as much accuracy as possible, and may generally be relied upon. Changes of an unforeseen nature affecting these statements will however occur, and the character of an inn which was universally commended for comfort and attention may suddenly