CALEDONIAN CANAL TOUR.

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daughter of Olaus was married to Somerled, or Sorlet (in Gaelic Somhairle, and corrupted by chroniclers into Sorli Marlady, etc.), who became the founder of the dynasty known as Lords of the Isles. James VI. made an abortive attempt at the colonization of Lewis. William III. and Queen Anne attempted to subsidise the chiefs in order to preserve tranquillity, but the wars of Montrose and Dundee, and the Jacobite insurrections of 1715 and 1745, shewed how futile were all such efforts. It was not till 1748, when a decisive blow was struck at the power of the chiefs by the abolition of heritable jurisdictions, and the appointment of sheriffs in the different districts, that the arts of peace and social improvement made way in these remote regions.

OBAN TO INVERNESS BY THE CALEDONIAN CANAL.*

There are good carriage roads by both sides of the lochs. Embarking in one of the steamers which navigate this chain of lakes connected by the Caledonian Canal, we pass between the rugged island of Kerrara and Dunolly, and bear northwards to the leeward of Lismore. Loch Linnhe, bounded on the one hand by the craggy knolls of Appin, and on the other by the purple hills of Morven, is the commencement of that chain of salt and fresh water lakes formed into the Caledonian Canal, and presents on both sides scenery of a most romantic character. Opposite the southern extremity of the island of Lismore, Loch Etive branches off to the right; and towards the northern extremity Loch Creran diverges in the same direction into the district of Upper Lorn. Passing on the right the lands of Airds and Appin, we reach the mouth of Loch Leven, to the east of which are the mountainous districts of Appin and Glencoe, and which separate Argyllshire from Inverness-shire. We now enter, as by a gate, at Coran Ferry

Passengers for Inverness pass the night at Bannavie, a new inn, commanding one of the best views of Ben Nevis. Bannavie is a much better haltingplace than Fort-William, and the ascent of Ben Nevis and visit to Inverlochy Castle can be equally well made from it. The steamer, which continues its course in this way, leaves Oban about 5 P.M., and gets to Bannavie about 9 P.M.; but as the hours are subject to change, the tourist should inquire at the office.

the romantic Loch Eil, on a bend of which, near the confluence of the river Lochy stands

FORT-WILLIAM,

[Hotels Caledonian; George; Argyll. Pop. 3303. 63 miles from Inverness, and 29 from Fort-Augustus. The adjacent village of Maryburgh, named in honour of Queen Mary, contains a population of about 1500 persons, who are for the most part engaged in the herring fishery].

In

one of the old keys of the Highlands. The fort, originally erected by General Monk, and rebuilt on a smaller scale in the reign of William III., is provided with a bomb-proof magazine, and barracks to accommodate about 100 men. 1715, and again in 1745, the Highlanders besieged it, but without success. There is a monument built here by Sir Duncan Cameron of Fassfern, Bart., the superior of the town, in memory of his late brother, Captain Peter Cameron, commander of “The Earl of Balcarras," East Indiaman. There are steamers from this place to Oban every day except Sundays.

A few miles northwards, at the mouth of the river Lochy, and at the southern terminus of the Canal, are the pier and village of CORPACH, where the steamer arrives at its destination, and where an omnibus is in waiting to convey passengers and luggage to the Locheil Arms Hotel at BANNAVIE, built by Sir Donald Cameron of Locheil, and which is a mile from Corpach pier, and occupies a fine position, commanding an excellent view of Ben Nevis. Between this and Loch Eil, there is a series of eleven locks, called Neptune's Staircase, each 150 feet long, 40 broad, and 20 deep.

The ruins of Inverlochy Castle,* which form so prominent a feature in the landscape here, stand at the distance of a mile from Bannavie or Fort-William, and consist of four large towers, the western and southern of which are nearly entire.

* It has at a distance, indeed, an aspect much more venerable than any of the Highland strengths, being, in fact, on the plan of an English baronial fortress of the period of the early Edwards, with its four round towers and corresponding screens. One wonders how it got there, but, when closely seen, it turns out to be a mere shell-a thin building of the coarsest rubble-work, without courses, and certainly not ancient. A picture of this castle in the National Gallery, Edinburgh, by Horatio M'Culloch, R. A., forms a noble example of that artist.-Burton's History of Scotland, vol. i., p. 250.

The castle is supposed to have been built on the site of an old stronghold of the powerful family of Comyn, and was the scene of a bloody engagement, during the reign of James I., between Donald of the Isles and the Earls of Mar and Caithness, in which the latter were defeated, and the Earl of Caithness slain. It was here the Marquis of Montrose, in 1645, achieved one of his most decisive victories over his great adversary the Marquis of Argyll, whom he defeated with the loss of upwards of 1500 men. This engagement is described at great length in the Legend of Montrose. A few years since a quantity of bones were dug up on the scene of this sanguinary rout. Between Inverlochy and Fort-William, the country has an aspect of stern and rugged sublimity. Above the ruins rise the "Braes of Lochaber," a succession of hills of all shapes and sizes, and of various hues, from the deep distant blue to the hard weatherbeaten grey and dark-wooded green. The district of Lochaber has for ages been the residence of the Clan Cameron. Their name was originally MacMartin, but they are said to have adopted the name Cameron on the marriage of a daughter of their chief with a gentleman named Camarriens or Chambers. MacMartin of Letterfinlay, however, still retains the original patronymic. A mile and a half from Inverlochy is Torlundie House, the seat of Lord Abinger.

Excellent fishing may be had in the rivers and lochs to the west of Fort-William. Some of these are strictly preserved, others are let to tacksmen who retail the permission to fish at fixed rates.*

* Permission to angle on Loch-Eilt and the River Aylort may be obtained on the following terms, for the months of May, July, and August:- For one rod, with the use of a boat, and man to row, £1 per day; per week of six successive days, £4. For two rods, one boat, and man to row, £1:10s. per day: per week of six successive days, £6. Anglers to keep their own fish. Any portion of a day's angling paid for as a whole day, no cross angling or otter fishing allowed.

Loch Eilt is within thirty miles of Fort-William, and is known to afford some of the best salmon and sea-trout fishing in Scotland, being entirely preserved for angling. Good accommodation may be procured at Kinlochaylort Inn, which is within a mile and a half of the Lake.

Mr. Astley's tenter, Angus Macdonald, lives at the lake, and will give anglers every assistance; he will also take the money for the fishing.

Application to be made to James Gunning, Rhue, Arisaig, by Fort-William, N. B.

On the northern bank of the upper road of Lochiel, there is a most romantic road, of about five miles, westwards to Prince Charles' monument and Glenfinnan. From FortWilliam the distance is 18, and from Bannavie 15 miles. This road is continued to Arisaig, where one of the Skye steamers calls Tuesday going north, Thursday south. (See Time-Tables, also page 490). The distance from Bannavie to this is 46 miles.

About half way, at a wood called Achadelew a most ferocious and sanguinary conflict occurred between the soldiers of General Monk and the Camerons of Lochiel.*

Ben Nevis,† now settled by the trigonometrical survey to *The young chief of Lochiel during the conflict met with a surprising adventure. Returning from a wood where he had slain three of the refugees with his own hand, he was suddenly attacked by one of Monk's officers, who vowed he would signally revenge the death of his countrymen. Sword in hand, the combat was long and doubtful-the English officer had the advantage in strength and size, but Lochiel, excelling in agility, in the end tript the sword out of his opponent's hand. This turn of fortune, however, he was not allowed to make use of, for his antagonist seizing him with incredible quickness, they closed and wrestled until both fell to the ground locked in the most deadly embrace. In this position they struggled long and desperately, until it occurred to the Englishman, who was uppermost, that he might stab Lochiel with his dagger. In the attempt to accomplish this, he made a violent effort to extricate himself from the iron grip of Lochiel. This momentary but fatal action was sufficient for Lochiel, who, swift as a tiger, seized his prey by the throat, tearing away the piece with his mouth, the sweetest mouthful, as he used to relate, that he had ever had in his lifetime.

In striking contrast with this bloody encounter was the heroic action of Lochiel's foster-brother during a subsequent part of the same fray. One of the soldiers having succeeded in gaining the ship, rested his gun upon the ledge of the vessel to secure a certain and deadly aim. Lochiel saw that his only chance of escape was by diving under the water at the proper time. He accordingly kept his eye close upon the finger that held the trigger. But his foster-brother, seeing the danger to which the chief was exposed, and preferring his safety to his own, immediately threw himself before him, and received the shot in his mouth.-Memoirs of Lochiel.

+ Some tourists, on arriving at Bannavie and Fort-William, have at once proceeded to ascend Ben Nevis, sleeping on the hill all night, and returning in the morning in time to join the steamer; but it is very hard work, and cannot be advised. There is also great risk of losing the steamer in the morning. In connection with this subject the following letter may be interesting.

"LOST ON BEN NEVIS."

Edinburgh, August 29, 1859.

SIR,-I find in Saturday's "Scotsman" a paragraph (from a contemporary) headed "Lost on Ben-Nevis." Now, as I happen to be the lady referred to,