JEANTOWN TO GAIRLOCH.

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return to the Caledonian Canal by Glenmoriston, his course will be to Dornie, at the junction of Loch Duich and Loch Ling (5 miles), and thence to Shiel Inn (other 10 miles). See page 492.

JEANTOWN TO GAIRLOCH BY APPLECROSS, LOCHS TORRIDON AND MAREE.

While the tourist is at Jeantown, although he should not feel inclined to pursue the whole of this route, he may devote a day, at least, to the examination of the wilds of Applecross. On reaching Courthill, at the end of Loch Kishorn, 5 miles from Jeantown, the road divides into two branches, one turning northwards to the village of Shieldaig, 9 miles off, through a moorish and uninteresting district, while the other goes direct on in a westerly direction, and ascends to the height of 1500 feet along one of the stupendous deer corries of the Bein Bhain of Applecross. This road attains its summit level by a series of corkscrew traverses, and displays along its course one of the wildest description of scenery, scarcely surpassed by that of Glencoe. Its further slope leads rapidly down to the plain of Applecross, a valley encompassed on all sides (save that next the sea) by high and wild mountains, which completely isolate it from the rest of the world. The road conducts by the village of Milntown, to the church and the fine old mansion-house of the proprietor (Mackenzie of Applecross), a place as detached and secluded as the happy valley of Rasselas. Here, it is said, the Culdee monks, the contemporaries or immediate successors of St. Columba, erected a small church and collegiate establishment. It is thus noticed in one of the earliest Irish annals, translated and published by the Iona club in 1835:-" A.D. 663. Malruba founded the church of Aporcrosan." As at Iona, all barges approaching this sanctuary had to land at a particular spot or harbour, where a cross was erected, and whence a series of other crosses lined or pointed out the way to the church and burying-ground. Some of those crosses (with extremely rude carvings) are still extant, but the religious edifices are all gone, and the modern name of Applecross refers to a mere recent monkish tradition, that every apple that grew in the old orchard bore the mark

of the cross. The sanctity of the spot is, however, preserved in the Gaelic patronymic, by which the proprietor is universally recognized by his tenantry as "Fer-na-Camaraich,”"the

laird of the sanctuary, or of the land of safety." From Applecross (where there is a small inn) there is a path northwards to Shieldaig Inn on Loch Torridon, which will take from 4 to 5 hours' good walking. The pedestrian may continue his journey from this by boat to Torridon (2 hours' rowing). Torridon to Kinlochewe (good inn), foot of Loch Maree, 12 miles; Kinlochewe to Poolewe (good inn), 18 miles; Poolewe to Gairloch (inn), 17 miles. At Gairloch the Oban steamer may be got, but for the particulars it is necessary to consult the Time Tables. The latter portion of this route is described the reverse way at page 513.

INVERNESS TO THE WEST COAST AND ROSS-SHIRE, BY THE RIVER BEAULY, STRATHGLASS, GLENSTRATHFARAR, GLEN CANNICH, AND STRATH AFFRICK.

There are few parts of the Highlands where so much of picturesque river scenery is to be found as along the course of the Beauly; nor are any of our mountains more gigantic and imposing than those which gird the alpine lakes and central glens, from which it derives its sources. The forenoon's drive from Inverness, by the Aird to the falls of Kilmorack as far as Eilan Aigas, is a very favourite one. A long day's journey of more than forty miles may be made to Struy on one side, and home by the opposite side of the river. But a tour of two and a half days to Glenstrathfarar, Strathglass, Loch Affrick, and Loch Benneveian, is now not unfrequent - the small inn of Struy, for want of a better, being the restingplace at night—while pedestrians may find their way across the country to Loch Duich and Skye. In either case, Beauly

forms a convenient stage.

The Falls of Kilmorack and the country beyond are reached by a road that strikes off at Beauly Bridge. The lower falls are two miles from Beauly, and are descried from the public road. They are not high but picturesque. Above

them, the river for about half-a-mile works its way in boiling cauldrons and broken cascades, between high rocky banks crowned by birch and pine trees. A pathway leads from a summer-house in the minister's garden along the edge of the cliffs. Where it rejoins the public road a longer reach, called the Drhuim, is presented, of the river threading its way for two or three miles between more open banks, partly cultivated, and the hill sides clothed to their summits with weeping birches. Fantastic islets and pinnacles of rock jut out in the bed of the river.

At the top of the Drhuim the road brings us in front of a round rocky hill in the midst of the valley, beautifully festooned with birches, on both sides of which the river is seen pouring itself down in rocky channels which again exhibit a series of elegant cascades. This eminence is the island of Aigas, and is adorned by a picturesque shooting lodge, in which the late Sir Robert Peel passed a few quiet months during his last summer's visit to the Highlands. The horses of a party here returning had better be baited at the public-house of Crask of Aigas. An open glen succeeds, ornamented at the lower end by the mansion-house of Eskdale (Thomas Fraser, Esq.), and the pinnacles of a Roman Catholic chapel, erected by Lord Lovat. About four miles on is the high old castle and the wooded grounds of Erchless, the seat of "The Chisholm," whose domains stretch far inland, and embrace great mountainous ranges of fine pasture.

Struy Inn, about 10 miles from Beauly, and 20 miles from Inverness, stands near the confluence of the Rivers Glass and Farar. The ascent of Benevachart just behind, which is upwards of 3000 feet high, may be accomplished from this.*

About 7 miles from Struy is Invercannich Inn (a small humble inn, but clean and comfortable) from which a path

* Before proceeding up Strathglass, the tourist may continue for some miles up Glenstrathfarar, which is of varying widths, and more or less wooded with birch. There are two small lakes in the glen, and beyond these Loch Monar, about seven miles long, bordered by lofty mountains, at the lower end of which is Monar House (H. Whyte, Esq.) By this route the pedestrian, by crossing a series of lonely heaths and grassy pastures, may reach Craig Ness, and from that proceed to Jeantown on Loch Carron (from 15 to 18 miles from Loch Monar). If so disposed, he will require to bivouack for the night at the shepherd's hut, at the further end of Loch Monar.

strikes westwards up Glencannich, a valley running almost parallel with Strath Affrick and Glenfarar. The rich soft pastures of Glencannich are, as the name imports, bedecked with the cotton grass and by innumerable bright flowering plants. A succession of lakes and tarns occupy, but can scarcely be said to embellish the surface. At the further end of the longest, Loch Lingard, which is seven miles in length, a shepherd's cottage will be found. Here the tourist may endeavour to refresh himself before proceeding, if such be the intention, to Balmacarra, on Loch Alsh (Ross-shire), 20 miles further. Before getting to the head of Loch Ling a detour may be made (although it must be confessed with great difficulty) to the Falls of Glomak.

Two and a half miles further, and about ten above Struy, is the bridge of Fasnakyle. Here a defile opens to the right, down which the waters of the Glass descend from Loch Benneveian and Loch Affrick. The Strath, however, continues southwards, and in this direction lies the beautiful Highland residence of Geusachan, the property of Fraser of Culbockie.

The road through Strathglass slants up the hill from near the bridge of Fasnakyle, and is continued along the northern shores of Lochs Benneveian and Affrick as far as Colonel Ing's shooting lodge, where the carriage road stops. Proceeding westwards, we traverse the hill side, along which the river Glass pours its infant flood. This road is cut among the remains of an ancient Caledonian pine forest, of which some magnificent relics may still be seen, while a thick underwood of young birch trees surrounds the hoary stems, and spreads itself over all the adjoining heights, producing the richest and most beautiful contrasts. The vistas of thickly-wooded declivities are exceedingly extensive and surpassingly beautiful. "The Chisholm's Pass," as it is termed, ushers us on Loch Benneveian, about five miles long and one broad, and about fifeeen miles from Struy. The woodland around bears a strong resemblance to the best portions of the Trosachs and of the Marr and Rothiemurchus forests. As we near Loch Affrick, mountain-screens increase in height and grandeur-their long sloping acclivities leading away the eye into distant vistas, which are filled up by the graceful sharp peaks of Kintail. A rocky barrier, overmantled with old pines and birchs, separates

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Loch Benneveian from Loch Affrick, which is about the same length as its neighbour. Near the head of Loch Affrick (and about 25 miles from Struy), is Colonel Ing's shooting-lodge, and there is a footpath from the west end of the loch right up to the top of Mamsoul, 3862 feet in height, according to trigonometrical survey. There is also a footpath from the west end of the loch to Kintail.

The whole of this western portion of the tour will be found almost treeless; but the pastures are extremely green and enlivening. A few alders and birches reappear in Kintail as we attain the shores of Loch Duich (that most magnificent and beautiful of sea lochs); and an impression of solemn admiration and awe steals over us as the stupendous frontlets and peaks of Ben Attow and Scuir Ouran first burst upon the view. Comfortable accommodation will be found at Balmacarra (Loch Alsh), or Shiel Inn (Loch Duich).

DINGWALL TO ULLAPOOL ON LOCH BROOM, ROSS-SHIRE, (37 miles).

An excellent new made district road strikes off from Garve Inn (13 miles west of Dingwall), which after passing the very long upland plain or valley, called Strath Dirie and the Dirie More, reaches the salt-water inlet of Loch Broom (30 miles). From Inverbroom, a pleasant walk of 7 miles conducts to the village of Ullapool. The whole distance is divided into three stages by two public-houses, one at Glascarnoch, 12 miles from Garve, and another near Fascrinich, or Braemore, about the same distance further on, where a new road from the district of Dundonald and Groinard joins the main one at the top of Loch Broom.*

* By the branch road just mentioned, the traveller can reach Poolewe in Gairloch, and proceed southwards by the route described at page 513. Or, after quitting Ullapool, he may proceed northwards into Sutherlandshire, by a road sixteen miles long, lately made by the Duke of Sutherland and the Highland Destitution Board, through Coigach and Strath Cannaird, and by Knockan to Ledmore, on the post road from Bonar Bridge to Loch Inver, whereby a continuous line of communication has thus been at last opened up southwards along the whole western coast of the country.