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lustre from changes which usually cause the decline of empires.'

From the introduction the author proceeds to make remarks on travelling in general, in Spain in particular. These remarks are succeeded by observations on the geography of Spain, or a chronological table of the Kings of Spain, and on its provincial and topographical divisions.

The

work then commences with a survey of the Province of Catalonia, as entered from Perpignan, on the side of France. It will appear, on examination, that the three first volumes exhibit a descriptive itinerary of this interesting country, and the two last a view of Spain, in what relates to the different branches of government and of political economy. It may be proper to introduce a specimen from each, which will be sufficient to satisfy the reader that we have not mentioned the work in undue terms of commendation.

The account of Tarragona in the first volume, and the character of the Spanish women, in the last, will demonstrate the various talents of the author, and his perfect competency to his undertaking, however diversified, elaborate, and difficult.

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Tarragona, in Latin Tarraco, is one of those famous towns which only recal the remembrance of their former grandeur, and serve as a comparison for the vicissitudes which may fall to the lot of the largest and most populous cities. We shall not stop here to inquire either into its origin or foundation, which some authors have carried back above two thousand years before the Christian era. Be that as it may, it must have been a considerable place before the Romans invaded Spain; and under its new masters its limits extended to the shore and harbours of Salona, which at present is a league and a half distant from them. It became, under the dominion of Rome, the capital of the Tarragonese province, or in other words, Criterior Spain. The town of Tarragona was the residence of the Consuls and the Prætors. The Scipios, Octavius Augustus, and Adrian, made some stay here; its antique walls built by Scipio, were repaired by Adrian; it had all the advantages of Rome itself, an amphitheatre, a circus, palaces, temples, and aqueducts.

In the time of the Emperor Adrian, its circumference was 34,190 fathoms; its population was adequate to its immense size, if what the historian Antonio Augustin says be accurate; he states it at 600,000 families, which would make upwards of 2,500,000 inhabitants. This historian, who lived in the 16th century, complaining of the decline of this illustrious town, grieves that in his days there were only 80,000 families in it, or about 380,000 inhabitants; but Mariana, who was almost contemporary with him, declares that the population of it was not above 7,000 families, and that there were not 2,000 houses in it. Its power first declined under the Goths. Euric, their king, took it in 467, and his soldiers, in revenge for its resistance, destroyed it. It was again sacked by the Moors, who besieged it in 714, and put all the inhabitants to the sword. Louis d'Aquitaine drove out the Moors in the year 805, but they recovered it. Raymond Bepeopled it the year following. Having renger took it from them in 1150, and reafterwards fallen again under the yoke of the Moors, it was finally rescued from them by Alfonso el Batallador, king of Aragon, in 1220. Tarragona is at present reduced in its size to about 1400 fathoms souls, very ordinary buildings, and almost in circumference, a population of 9,000 to a state of poverty.

"Situation. Extent. Tarragona is at present situated on an eminence of rocks elevated about seven hundred and sixty feet above the level of the sea, and near the river Francoli. It is surrounded with walls, and has six gates and two castles of little importance, that of the King, and that of the Patriarch.

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Clergy. Tarragona is the See of one of the most ancient archbishoprics of Spain; it existed under King Wamba; and was re-established in 1088, by Raymond Berenger, Count of Barcelona, after hav ing expelled the Moors from it. Formerly its jurisdiction extended very far; but it has been diminished by the erection of new superior jurisdictions. At present this See has the bishop of Ivica, and the seven bishops of Catalonia, for suffragans. Its diocese contains a cathedral chapter, and seven hundred and forty parishes; the archbishop has the title of prince of Tarragona; he crowned the Kings of Ara. gon. The town has only one parish, which is attached to the cathedral; it has monasteries, four nunneries and one house of Beguines of the order of Saint Dominic.

The cathedral has seven dignitaries, twenty-one canons, twenty-three prebendaries, and forty beneficed clergymen.

'The States-general of Catalonia for

merly assembled in this town, and fifteen councils have been held there; that of 1228 annulled the marriage of James I. King of Aragon, with an infanta of Castile. That of 1240 threatened the archbishop of Toledo with excommunication if he continued to act as primate of Spain. That in 1424 was the most remarkable; the cardinal de Foix, legate of Martin the Fifth, was the president, the object of it was to put an end to the schism which had long divided the church. Gil sans de Munos, who had been elected Pope by the cardinals, in obedience of the anti-pope, Bennett the 13th, relinquished the popedom, and with his cardinals re-entered into the union of the Roman church.

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Hospitals. A general hospital for orphans.

'Civil and Military Administration. Tarragona is the chief place of a corregidorat, which contains one hundred and ninety settlements; it has a civil and military governor, a king's lieutenant, a major, a garrison of fifty men, an alcalde major for the administration of justice, a minister of the marine, a port captain, and a board of public economy.

Public instruction. A school for the education of young ladies, and a college for boys.

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It likewise had a university, which was founded in 1572 by the archbishop Gaspard de Cervantes; and which was included with the universities of Catalonia, suppressed by Philip the Fifth.

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Edifices. The cathedral church is at present the only building which can fix attention, nor is it of a style to detain us long. It is a fine spacious edifice built of freestone, one hundred and seventy feet long, and one hundred and twenty-seven wide, and is divided into a body and two aisles which are separated by five arches on each side: they are supported by great pillars of an enormous size, on each of which twelve Corinthian columns are clustered; the architecture of the vault is Gothic. The cross of the church is large and opens well, forming a kind of octagon dome, but heavy and without grace; the principal altar is almost entirely formed by the union of several slabs of very fine white marble in demi-relief, representing divers events of the life and death of St. Tecle; the figures being too numerous produce confusion, but there are some parts in detail very pleasing. The chapels are worth inspection, that of St. Francis for two large pictures of him, and that of St. Cecilia for the tomb of Cervantes Tautillo, cardinal and archbishop of Tarragona ; that of the Conception for its paintings and

gildings; that of the Holy Sacrament for the tomb of the famous historian Don Antonio Augustin, who was also archbishop of Tarragona, and legate of the Holy See in Spain; that of St. Tecle for its form and decorations all in marble. We go from the church into a great square cloister, which has six large arcades on every side, each of which is divided into three smaller arches; the latter are supported by Doric columns of white marble; their capitals are ornamented with bass-reliefs of great delicacy, representing different things, such as foliage, branches of trees, birds, other animals, figures of infants, of men, and other devices.

'Promenades. There is nothing plea sant in the town except its situation; in other respects it is very gloomy, without pleasures, society, or public amusements; the streets are narrow, short, crooked, and frequently hilly; the houses are ill built, with the exception of a small number, which look well enough. There are no squares, fountains, weils, or prome. nades; those in which they walk do not deserve this name, being only a beaten road on one side of it, and a kind of terrace, very short, which looks over the sea; both are without trees, or any other cover. Within fifteen years a large street has been built leading to the gate of SanCarlos: it is very long, broad, straight, and contains some fine buildings.

Climate. Tarragona has a fine sky, and the climate is temperate, but rather warm than cold. There are frequently violent winds here. Provisions are good, the fruits are delicious, and the wine excellent, but strong. The town had no fountain or well water; the inhabitants were reduced to drink cistern water, which was commonly bad, when the last archbishop built a superb aqueduct, which conveys excellent water to the town. This aqueduct is partly built on the ruins of a similar work erected by the Romans.

We have already spoken of the seve ral sieges which Tarragona formerly sustained since then, this town, revolting with the rest of Catalonia against Philip IV. was besieged and taken by the troops of its sovereign in 1640. Four years after, it was besieged by the French, who were forced to raise the blockade; at the be, ginning of the 18th century it followed the Austrian party; gave itself up in 1705 to the Archduke, and opened its gates to the English troops, who, after the peace of Utrecht, in 1713, set fire to the town when they left it. This conflagration destroyed a part of the buildings and forti

fications. This was the period of the total decline of Tarragona: it is now beginning to recover itself.

The new port, the building of which was begun seven or eight years ago, and which will be one of the finest in the Mediterranean, must necessarily contribute to the prosperity of Tarragona; it will make it an important fortified town, and one of a profitable commerce.' Vol. i, p. 92.

The above extract is sufficient to

prove the minute and careful inquiries which the author directed to every subject he has undertaken to elucidate, while talents of a different kind are displayed in the specimen of his work hereafter exhibited. The one satisfies us that every production of ancient and modern history has been carefully explored; the progressive changes which time has introduced, defined and illustrated; all local peculiarities and present condition and circumstances of the place described, examined with acute attention, and represented with great ability. When the character of the people is delineated, it is impossible not to see and acknowledge profound and philosophic reflection: we meet with no levity or frivolity of remark, but a spirit of frankness, candour, and good sense, anxious at the same time neither to violate the dignity of truth, nor to be subject to the suspicion of misrepresentation and prejudice. It would have much pleased us to have inserted the whole of M. Laborde's observations on the Spanish character, which is certainly delineated with a masterly hand; but we must content ourselves with inserting what he says on the Spanish women, which is thus introduced:

The Spaniards are generally rather below than above the middle stature. They are taller in the provinces near the ocean and the Pyrenees, especially in Catalonia, Aragon, and Galicia; provinces which furnish a well-made, large, and well-proportioned race of men, and small. er in the two Castiles and Leon.

The Spaniards are usually represented as lean, dry, meagre, and of a yellow and swarthy complexion. They are not, indeed of the gross habit usually observed in the

inhabitants of the north; but their thinness is neither excessive nor disagreeable; it is suitable to their stature. Their complexion is swarthy in some provinces; those, for instance, of the south; it is so also, but in a less degree, in the Castiles, though a shade brighter in New than in Old Castile. It inclines to yellow or olive, in the kingdom of Murcia, but white skins are still very common in Spain, especially amongst women and children.

The general appearance of the Spalicate, the head beautiful, the countenance niards is usually very good; the shape deintelligent; their eyes are quick and animated, their features regular, their teeth

even.

The Castilians appear delicate, but they are strong. The Galicians are large, nervous, robust, and able to endure fatigue. The inhabitants of Estramadura are strong, stout, and well-made, but more swarthy than any other Spaniards." The Andalusians are light, slender, and The Murperfectly well-proportioned. cians are gloomy, indolent, and heavy; lead-coloured. The Valencians are delitheir complexion is pale, and often almost cate, slight, and effeminate; but intelligent, and active in labour. The Catalans are nervous, strong, active, intelligent, indefatigable, and above the middling well-made; stature. The Aragonese are tall and as robust, but less active than the Catalans. The Biscayans are strong, vigorous, agile, and gay; their complexion is fine, their expression quick, animated, laughing, and open; the Roman historians describe them as brave, robust, endowed with constancy and a firmness not to be shaken; fierce in their disposition, singular in their customs; always armed with daggers, and ready to give themselves death rather than suffer themselves to be subjugated or governed by force; roused to opposition by obstacles, and patient of labours and fatigue. In fact, the Calabrians were the Spanish people who longest resisted the arms of the Roman republic.

The Spanish women here deserve a separate article; compared with the men, they seem to form a different nation.

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not long preserve, however, owing to the little care they take of them. They have large and open eyes, usually black or dark hazel, delicate and regular features, a peculiar suppleness, and a charming natural grace in their motions, with a pleasing and expressive gesture. Their countenances are open, and full of truth and intelligence; their look is gentle, animated, expressive; their smile agreeable; they are naturally pale, but this paleness seems to vanish under the brilliancy and expressive lustre of their eyes. They are full of graces, which appear in their discourse, in their looks, their gestures, in all their motions, and every thing that they do. They have usually a kind of embarrassed and heedless manner, which does not fail, however, to seduce, even more, perhaps than wit and talents. Their countenance is modest, but expressive. There is a certain simplicity in all they do, which sometimes gives them a rustic, and sometimes a bold air, but the charm of which is inexpressible. As soon they get a little acquainted with you, and have overcome their first embarrassment, they express themselves with ease: their discourse is full of choice expressions, at once delicate and noble; their conversation is lively, easy, and possesses a natural gaiety peculiar to themselves. They seldom read and write, but the little that they read they profit by, and the little that they write is correct and concise.

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They are of a warm disposition; their passions are violent, and their imagination ardent; but they are generous, kind, and true, and capable of sincere attachment.

· With them, as with the women of other countries, love is the chief business of life; but with them it is a deep feeling, a passion, and not, as in some other parts, an effect of self-love, of vanity, of coquetry, or of the rivalries of society. When the Spanish women love, they love deeply and long; but they also require a constant assiduity, and a complete dependence. Naturally reserved and modest, they are then jealous and impetuous. They are capable of making any sacrifices; but they also exact them. On these occasions they discover all the energy of their character; and the women of no other nation can compare with them in this point. The Castilian women excel all the rest in

love. There are many shades of difference in the manner in which this passion is displayed by the females of different provinces. Those of Castile have more tenderness and sensibility; the Biscayans are more ardent; the Valencians and Ca

talans more impetuous; the Aragonese most exacting and imperious; the Andalusian women most adroit and seducing; but the general disposition is nearly the same in all.

There is a freedom in the manners and conversation of the Spanish women, which causes them to be judged unfavourably of by strangers; but on further acquaintance a man perceives that they appear to promise more than they grant, and that they do not even permit those freedoms which most women of other countries think there is no harm in allowing. A modern traveller who is sometimes severe, often hasty in his judg ments, has anticipated me in this remark; but he deduces from it an inference unfavourable to the Spanish women. "Feeling (says he) their own weakness, and knowing how inflammable they are, they are distrustful of themselves, and fear they should yield too easily." This is supposing them very abandoned, and very calculating, and they are neither the one nor the other. This reserve, belongs to their notions and manners; it sometimes proceeds from the embarrassment of which we have spoken, and oftener from their ideas of love, which forbid them to grant their favours by halves, or to employ that coquetry so common among the women of other countries.

'If the Spanish ladies are agreeable, if they are sometimes well-informed, they owe it only to themselves, and in no degree to their education, which is almost totally neglected. If their native qualities were polished and unfolded by a careful instruction, they would become but too seductive.' Vol. v. p. 265.

It might have been very possible to have substituted other extracts still more creditable to the original author, and exhibiting still more satisfactory evidence of elaborate research, combined with circumstan, tial detail and elegant observation. But enough, it should seem, must have been done to convince the reader that the translator has introduced a work into our language far above the ordinary level. He is on this account entitled to our thanks, even if he had not merited, which he certainly does, much and great commendation for the spirit, elegance, and, we question not, the fidelity of his version. We learn that some few, but very pardonable, liberties,

have been taken with the original. The English ear has not been disgusted with the fulsome panegyrics on a Joseph Buonaparte. A chapter comparing the Spanish and French languages has been judiciously abridged; and a chapter on Natural His

tory has received some additions and corrections. Some notes also, of necessary explanation have been added. The Atlas has the merit of great perspicuity and neatness; and the whole is a useful and agreeable addition to English Literature.

FROM THE MONTHLY REVIEW.

A Narrative of a Voyage to Surinam; of a Residence there during 1805, 1806, and 1807; and of the author's return to Europe by the way of North America. By Baron Albert Von Sack, Chamberlain to his Prussian Majesty. 4to. pp. 282. 17. 7s. Boards. Nicol and Son. 1810.

THE Baron Von Sack has here presented the reader with the result of observations made in the course of an extensive tour, without any pretensions to extraordinary profundity or acuteness, but with great good sense, and in a style which does not assume the merit of polished elegance, but commands by its simplicity the fullest confidence in all the author's statements. We think that he has laid the English public under considerable obligations, for the intelligence which he imparts respecting a valuable settlement that has not, perhaps, hitherto obtained all the attention that is due to it; and we ought certainly to thank him for removing one prejudice, which has probably deterred strangers from visiting Surinam, inasmuch as he has exhibited in his own person an example of beneficial effects produced on the health, by a residence in the atmosphere of that long calumniated colony.

In pursuance of medical advice, the Baron left Madeira, where the winds were occasionally too severe for the delicate state of his lungs, and took his passage for Surinam in December 1804. In the course of his voyage he had the misfortune to be captured by a French privateer, and was carried to Martinico; whence he afterward procured an opportunity of

reaching Barbadoes. His remarks, however, on the situation of these two islands need not detain us, because he could make only a superficial survey of them. He quitted Barbadoes in April, 1805, and, after more alarms of capture, which were happily unfounded, he arrived, towards the close of that month, in the Surinam river, highly pleased with the general aspect of this part of the coast of Guiana, and attracted by the handsome appearance of the principal town in the colony Paramaribo. Here he was no sooner settled in a comfortable residence, and introduced to a circle of acquaintance, than he began to make various excursions into the neighbouring dis trict, for the purpose of acquiring information. He appears to have experienced great hospitality and kindness wherever he went: but as his tours were desultory, and his statements are miscellaneous, (being arranged under no regular heads, but conveyed in letters to friends in Europe, in the order of time in which the several objects were presented to his notice,) we shall content ourselves with selecting a few of the particulars which have struck our minds most forcibly as entitled to attention.

In his first journey to the Commewyne, the author informs us that the

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