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inild days we have remarked some light pelisses , trimmed with lace, and the points of the cymar made of washing silk, of a shawl pattern. trimmed with tassel fringe or beads. Sarsnets
The Henri quatre bat, the Carnarvon hat of of various colours, with the Alibala and thicker velvet, and cottage bonuets of quilted satin or sort of India muslios than those worn on variegated straw, ornamented with willow- evenings, are most prevalent at friendly meetgreen ribbands, are much worn; and the Relings or social home parties : these sarsnets are gency hat seems to continue a lasting favou. generally ornamented with feather gymp, and rite; it is, however, now formed of lighter the muslins with lace; and round the bottom materials than (hose worn the two preceding of sarsnet gowns, both black and white lace is months, and is generally made of sarsnet or much worn, and set on rather full. Trains satin, neatly quilted, of various colours, ac. and demi-trains are now only seen in full dress, cording to the dress they are worn with; the Turbans and caps are more worn tban left side is relieved by a tasteful bow of rib. they have been for the two preceding months : band, and a light feather falls over the front. some of the turbans are quite a-la-Turque,
Shawls and spensers have differed but little and are very becoming to most faces; a row since last month, which, though belonging to of simple curls only, is discovered beneath a bissextile year, and owing to the season of them, on each side the face. The Anne Lent, is but short, and has not made much Bullen cap has again made its appearance, variation in the rules of fashion; some sarsnet and is formed of lighter materials than formantles have appeared; they are made to sit i merly; being, instead of satin or velvet, of very close "o the waist, like a pclisse, and are trim- fine lace, lined with coloured sarsnet, and med at the bottom with a very broad black edging of fine lace round the front, relieves lace, they are generally of a willow or grass the heavy row of beads, with which it silil green, or of purple, lined with amber. A few! continues to be ornamented. To these may be tippets have appeared in carriages and at the added the Arabian cap, made something in the Opera, of coloured crape, puckered over satin; | Hulan form; ladies, however, wbo have very they have an elegant appearance on the woman | fine hair, content themselves with only a barof high fasbion, and they are so tastefully and dean of jewels, bugles, or two rows of beads, artificially puckered, as to appear as if they or merely with a simple half-wreath of flowers, were composed of small feathers.
of garden daisies, or scarlet geranium, placed The morning dresses, which are the only on the left side of the head. dresses now worn high, are laced up the front, ll With wbite dresses the most appropiate with a stomacher, over which the laring made and elegant ornament in jewellery are, varie. of cordon, by which the colour of the gown is gated coloured gems, clegantly set in gold. diversified, is fancifully laced. Evening dresses Pearls and rubies, and pearls and amethysts are made rather shorter in the waist than for- intermixed, take place even of diamonds. merly, but still very plain. For full dress, Diamonds are becoming only to the majestic Jace and crape aprons are much worn, and the brunette, whose sparkling eyes scintilate, in sbort sleeves of the gown are made of the same rivalry, with this most valuable and brilliant materials as the apron, as in Plate 2. The treasure of the earth. Regency trimming of puckered crape, down | The hair is dressed rather more from the the front, sides, and round the bottom of even- || face than it was last month, and at the same ing dresses, has a very beautiful effect, when time more dishevelled; but when worn with made to suit, and yet be contrary to the colour the Arabian cap, which is formed of black of the robe which it ornaments. Velvets, sa. velvet and satin, in alternate waves, it is much tins, and sarsnets, are most worn of an even exposed, in profuse curls, on the right side, ing; but fise India muslias of almost a cob. and the cap brought entirely over the left web texture, are ofreu seen on a great number side of the face, and very low on the fore. of ladies, where there are large parties; they head: the same style is observed with the are worn with white satin bodies or cymars, || Agnes mob. with Arcadian points, the muslins elegantly The half-boot laced bebiod, does not much
gaiu ground; it looks well in front, bui an ments, or trimmed tbe state-robes of our English lady is so exquisite a patieru of neat. || highest nobinity, were desigoated by the ness, tuat she would be distressed if those l ames of grosvair, minevair, pennevair, and who followed her were uot equally charge s metimes mercly vair. These authors assure with her appearance as those she migha 11s that “i he pelure most esteemed amongst chance to meet; and certainly ibe boot, by them, was the skin of an animal of the squirrel being laced behind, soon loses that right ap kiud, calied vair, wliose back was of a bluish pearance at the beel which is always so be grey, resembling the colour of some doves. Its coming to a well-turued aucle.
bully was white. It was divued into Jarge Slippers of silk-coloured jean, and kid of and small pieces, and for ibat reason, accordvarious colours, are woru of an evening : but ingly as the pelisse is composed of the large for morning walks the ball boot still cour
or the small, sewed together, it is called grosse tinues the most genteel and fashionable wear. |
lair, or minevair.” Some writers assert that The most prevailing colours are willow | this vair is not of the squirrel race, but was and grass green, ruby, jonquil, and Cinnebar
no other than ihe Poutic mouse; and derived brown.
its name from varius, on account of its brown
back and while belly. THE MIRROR OF FASHION.
Your Ladyslip will find in the packet of
furs which I presume to present you, a In a series of Lellers from a Gentleman of rank | velisse lined and faced with the skin that was and taste, to a Lady of Quulily.
called vair by our ancestors. It was sent from
Moscow to me by the Count K— ; and, he LETTER IX.
informs me, is equal in estimation in that By this time your Ladyship must be ll country witb the ermine. People in England pretty well wearied with your circuit through call it sometimes the grey ermine, and others the manufacturies of our ancestors. In con- | Russian squirrel skin ; but the real name of it sideration of the patience with which you ll is the jerboa. The little avimal to whom it have endured bale after bale of richi stuffs belongs is a native of the most eastern and being opened before you, without one being southern parts of the Russian dominions, and offered to your acceptance, I presume to lay is in size and shape something like a squirrel, at your feet, with tbis letter, a packet of the but far more elegant in its form, and has an finest furs Russia can produce, and while I ll eye of the most piercing brightpess. It is pot beg that you will permit ihem to shade the confined to the empire of Moscovy, but it is fairest form in nature from the inclemencies of also to be found amongst the rocky and sandy our own climate, I will proceed to shew in regions of otber Asiatic countries; and in wbat ample request they were with the dames | Holy Writ we read of it under the appellation of the thirteenth century.
of Sophionurn, which our translators have transTheir winter robes and mantles were con formed into the word coney. stantly lined or faced with skins of value pro | Witb such comfortable decorations did our portioned to the wealth and rank of ibo Il reasonable a ucesters adorn their winter habi- , wearer. The poor wore sheep's and lamb's laments, whilst their suminer apparel sparkled skins of the growth of our own hills and in all the gorgeous maguificence of precious vallies, and the rich sent for their pelisses to -tones and embroidery, which latter append. the northern regions of Norway, Mo.covy, age they denominated painting with the needle. and Lapland. The furs os sables, ermines, So eminently sumptuous in materials and squirrels, and martens, were in most esteem; workmanship were these Auglo Norman kabits, but we find that noblemen did not disdain tv hat Innoceni IV. Pontiff of that oame, on repel the cold by weli lined mautles of bea- l seting some of them on the backs of certain vers, foxes, cats, rabbits, goats, and bears. Il vobles visiting bis court, exclaimed, “0 Eng. The furs, or pelures (as they are named by our land, thou garden of delights, thou art truly early writers), which composed the winter gar- ll an inexhaustible fountain of riches! from tby
abundance mach may be exacted to embellish great magoitude, such as emeralds, sapphires, the wardrobes of the Vatican !"
jacinths, pearls, rubies, and other rich orvaTo set this splendour of array in a clearer', ments. The ladies who attended had rings light, I need only introduce your Ladyship of gold, set with t paz stones and diamonds, as a spectatress at the solemnization of the upon their fingers; their heads were adorned marriage of Alexander III. of Scotland, with with elegant cresis or garlands; and their Princess Margaret, the sister of our Henry IIl.wiinples were composed of the richest stuffs, Mathew Paris shall be the herald of the page.' embroidered with pure gold, and embellished apt, and thus he speaks :-" There were great with the rarest jewellery.” abundance of people of all ranks, multitudes Such were the gala dresses of our old-fashionof the nobility of England, France, and Scot- ed ancestors. Will our new costumes vie with land, with crowds of Knights and military thein? I think you will agree wilb me that, Officers, the whole of them pompously adorned splendid as was the fete we enjoyed together with garments of silk, and so transformed with at the palace of our graceful Prince Regent, excess of ornaments that it would be impos. its magnificence could not be compared to this sible to describe their dresses without being given hy the King of Scots. To short, while tiresome to the reader, thougb it would excite | our male nobility habit themselves, even on bis astonisoment. Upwards of one thousanell gala days, in the plain unadorned fashion of Knights, on the part of the King of England, be present times, no assembly could look attended the muptials in vestments of silk. || but balf furnished. The ladies may glitter in curiously wrought in embroidery; and these
all that can decorate and dazzle, but the gentle. vestments on the morrow were laid aside, and I men must ever remain but dull parts of the the same Knights appeared in new robes of
1 show. I am vo advocate for foppery, but I still more magnificent decoration. The nobles
ih ok it essential to ibe maintenance of a due of Scotland and of France did not fall a whit
diffe: ence between stations, that a nobleman below those of England in iheir show and pa
sbould not be dressed like his butler; and rade. Tbe Barons and the Knights were ba
more magnificent clothing would promote inbited in robes of divers colours ; sometimes ]
dustry, and be beneficial to trade. they appeared in green, sometimes in blue, il
In my next I shall enter into details from then again jn grey, and afterwards in scarlet,
the archives of the tailors, mautua-makers, and varying the colours according to their fancies,
milliners of the departed brilliant days of the or the wills of the ladies to whom they bad
Norman race; and meanwhile, when seated at dedicated their amorous vows. Their breasts
your toilette, let its graceful duties remind were adorned with fibule, or broaches of gold; || Y
| you of the zeal and obedience of your and their shoulders with precious stones of ll
PUBLIC AMUSEMENTS. | Raising the Wind, fc. Under such circum
stances it was to be expected that the audience COVENT-GARDEN.
would not much relish it-It made, however, FROST AND TH'AW-A new Farce bas been a good struggle for existence, and the kindness presented at this theatre, called Frost and Thaw. of the Managers has induced them to reprieve It bas aone of the ludicrous characteristics, what the town has condemned. and privileged extravagance of farce-It has
LYCEUM. no iutrigue to excite curiosity, no humour, no burlesque-It presents a perfect vacuity of all called the House of Morville, bas been brought the ingredients which are usually fouud in' out at this theatre. It was stated in the bills those diverting olios, such as Hit or Miss, " to be written in humble imitation of the old
HOUSE OF MORVILLEA
school, and so far, indeed, it was ad imitatiou of y and body which was the great failure of Hop. the old school, inasmuch as Sbakespeare has ner's Venus. The legs, however, are gracefully scarcely written a play from which the House of and naturally bent, and the proportions in the Morville has not taken something. Macbeth and extremities are correctly observed. The figure Romeo and Juliet are here brayed into the same is fleshy, without being muscular, and delicate mortar, and not merely the incidents, but even without any loss of just dignity and beauty. the language and words, were as liberally bor The proportions of the body and the joints are rowed. But the main fault of the piece was not correct in an anatomical point of view. its vapid and insipid bombast, alternately los. But we will venture to say, that Mrs. Ansley ing itself in the clouds, and iben creeping has displayed more knowledge of the art than even below the worm on the earth. The au any female painter since the time of Angelica dience received it with disapprobation, which Kauffman. The colouring is suited to the we must confess to bave been well merited. l subject, but is rather too heavy-It should Whilst the House of Morville was tumbling to have been more in inasses, and have bad some pieces within the house, a house in Exeter. prominent point, street fell down without; and, between them
No. 121. Chevy Chace, E. Bird.—This is a both, we believe the audience were well satis- composition of great feeling and sentiment fied when they got home quietly to their beds.
It possesses at the same time the bighest de.
gree of novelty, and many of the first excelPANTHEON.
lencies of art. The subject of the composition Tbis theatre opened on Thursday, March 5.
is comprehended in the following stanzas :The pit was well filled, and the boxes rather brilliantly than numerously attended. The “ Next day did many widows come perfòrmance gave great satisfaction The ap
Their busbands to bewail;
They wash'd their wounds in briny tears, pearance of the house was extremely elegant
Yet ail would not prevail. and fascinating. We understand the receipts
Their bodies bath'd in purple gore, of the bouse were £700.
With them they bore away,
And kiss'd them dead a thousand times, THE BRITISH INSTITUTION.
When they were clad in clay." • (Concluded from Page 105.)
We have many examples of battle pieces, Venus borne on the Waves in her Shell, by Mrs. l, in which have been depicted the conflict and ANSLEY.-Tbere is something extremely violence of war; but we scarcely know whether poetical in the conception of this subject; it we bave one composition in which is repredoes not however arrive at that excellence in sented the solemn and melancholy scene of a the line of art of which it was capable. Wben- ! Day after the Battle, in which the wounded ever the figure of Venus is brought before our are borne off by their mourning relatives; eyes, the mind is naturally carried back to a the dead are discovered by their friends, and contemplation of the Greek models; to those all the feelings of domestic affections are let wonderful examples of art, which have heen loose, as they expa!iate over the mclavcholy left us by the industry of Praxidiles, and the stage of victory on one side, and defeat on the graceful labour of Phidias. The Greeks emother. The picture, therefore, has the two bodied in their Venus all the perfection of great recommendations of novelty and nature. which the human frame was capable. A kind The groupe, in which a man is seen opeving of geometrical symmetry, joiued to an a: i. ll the helmet of a dead soldier, and discovering mated movement and lively grace, produred l bim to be a brother, is very affecting. The what is called in art, that ideal beauty, wlich relatives are gathered around bim, and the exists in the inagination of every cultivated characters of each countenance are depicted mind, though it is not found in any single ob- l with great pathos and truth. The conception ject in nature; being rather a thing of inven of this picture does great credit to tbe Artist; tion than reality. Mrs. Ansley': Venus wants the drawing is extremely correct, and the that just and proportionate union of the bead colouring is that of a master. The picture ex