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off; but the elbows were cold, it looked com- tinue to be made a walking or dancing length, fortless, and the more close shieiding ont.door and are trimmed round the bottom with lace. dresses resumed their station : this mantle, High morning dresses continue to be made called the Badajoz cloak, and the Pilgrim's hat to lace up the front of the bust with core and long muntle of fine kerseymere, are powdon of various colours, to suit the rote, again very uuiversal, and the present pelisse, over a s:omacher of the same material as the in comp'iance with ancient custom, which goun: the only dinner dress wbich is made renders velvet very oulre at this season of the high is that of the Grey Nuns; a simple and year, is made of sarsnet, and furs are no more elegant attire, consisting of French grey sarsto be seen; unless they are round a pelerine of nel or satin, trimmed round the bottom, satin to suit the colour of the dress they are li sleeves, and down the front with two rows of worn with, and this bordering is then generally ll narrow black velvet and buttons of jet; over of swansdown: the Parisian met bod of wiar- || !bis a large ro ary alid cross of Egyprian rose. ing the hat and feather, or bonnet and flowers wood, ebony, or ivory stained of a bright black, entirely of one colour, is much adopted. is an indispensible ornament, the cross de.
The bonnets are in various forms, but the scending below the girdie: it any cap is sempstress bonnet takes place of the cottage;
with this, it is the Agnes mob, but the hair it ties under the chin will long and bread elegantly dishevelled, without any ornament, strings, which crossing under the chin are is the most generai with this costume. brought to the summit of the crown, where W White crape's embroidered with silver and tbey tie and form a bow: these bonnets are a bright coloured sarsuiets, such as Bur. close and convenient shade to the face for | goudy, rose colour, and Maria Louisa blue, walking; the crowus of all morning bonnets are in universal fayour for evening parties; the are made much more high and spiral, than | Maria Louisa blue is a dye of peculiar eclat, they have been for some years. The Yeoman's | between the bright cerulean and the Clarence bat, Regency hat, and French college cap, arell blue: sarsnet and satin gowns of these co. get much worn.
lours are trimmed with Regency crape trim. The mode of dressing the hair bas not been | niog, pearls, bugles, wbite or coloured beads, much altered for some months; some ladies, ll according to the taste of the wearer; but fine but very few, become it, viraw ibe hair entirely ll India muslims are invariably crimmed with lace away from the face, and bring it, in the of almo. t a cobweb texture, and iu profusion. Chinese style, to a raised knot on the summit || Jewellery is much worn; and the Opera, the of the head, which is ornamented with a grand midnight rout and gala present somewreath of grouped Powers. White satin caps times a complete blaze of splendour ; especially are worn with green orgaments; leaves with in the variegated coloured gems, wkich, wiila out flowers, such as oak without acorns, gera the white dresses, will ever be unrivalled favour nium without the blossom, deadly night stade rites ; a pew article in cornelian has also been with its green berry, and the trefoil or sham introduced, which from toe difficulty attend. rock made of silk and green foil, did not ex- ling its attainrent, makes some necklaces of pire with St. Patrick's day, but is still worn by Nihat article of immense value; cach bead of some of our English as well as Hiberuian The necklace and braceleis is as large as a sparladies.
row's (gg; and is half a bright red and half The make of the gowns, frocks, and slips white cornelian. Diamonds with biack dresses, bare varied but little within these last three black velvet college caps, or small elegant mouths; only that in full dress the robe is li hats, turned up in front, with a large diamond made rather lower in the back than formerly; crescent, and white gossamer feathers falling the frocks in salsaet have a smali fullness; in Il over the left side, are yet prevalent as an muslia or leno they are made quite plain : Opera head-dress : bandeaux also of diamonds, trains and demi trains are only worn when the set in close clusters, form a rich and glittering dresses are made of sarsnet, crape, or gossa. ornament on very dark bair, while pearls and Der satin; muslim and leno frocks still con. "emeralds intermingled with the bright chesnut
tresses, rubies, amethysts, and sapphires with, with gold, nor any for cf sables, under the the faxen curls of la belle blonde, form to. penalty of twenty marks, to be paid to the gether, at a public sp clacle, a most brilliant King. The children of lords are excepted ia and enchantiug coup-d'ail. Solitaire necklaces, this probibiton. with suspended crosses, generally of diamonds, Il “ No bachelor kniglit, nor his wife, shall pearls, or topaz, are much worn; the rich dark wear any cloib of velvet upon velvet, under topaz should never be throwo aside; in vain the forfeiture of twenty marks to the King. the pink and pale topaz were brought firward | The knights of the garter and their wives are to rival it; the orange-coloured topaz has re. ll herein exceptid. gained its former pre-eminence; it is becoming “No person under the degree of a lord, shall to all complexions.
wear any cloth of a purple colour, under the Half-bools continue to be wora in the morn-l penalty of ten pounds. ing, and are more prevalent in cloth than kid, !! “No esquire, nor gentleman under the rank those of French grey, fringed and laced with of a knight, uor their wives, shall wear any the saine colour, are bow most in requisition. | relvet, figured satin, nor any counterfeit closh Our fair countrywomen have entirely exploded ll of silk, nor any wrought corsets, under the the sandal for the more elegant light Italian penalty of ten marks. The sons of lords, with slipper, for full and half.dress: the colours of their wives and daughters, and esquires for these slippers are various; for full-dress chiefly the King's body, with their wives, are exceptd white kid, pink or white salin; for half dress in this clause. they are of different colours in kid, jean, and “No esquire nor gentleman, nor any other chagrin silk.
man or woman, under the rank aforesaid,
shall wear any damask or satin, under the THE MIRROR OF FASHION.
Il penalty of one hundred pence. There is a In a series of Letters from a Gentleman of rank
long exception to this clause, including do. and taste, to a Lady of Quality.
mestic esquires, sergrants, oflicers of the LETTER X.
King's household, yeomen of the crown, HAVING displayed before the eyes of your yeomen of the King's chamber, esquires, and Ladyship the various treasures of the Auglo gentlemen possessing the yearly value of one Norman looms, it may be requisite to in hundred pounds. form you that variety was not less prevalent “Rememher that the seneschal (the high in the fourteenth century than in that of our steward), chamberlain, treasurer, comptroller own extravagant age. So great was the excess of the King's household, his carver, and with which all ranks of persons conformed to knights for his lady, and their wives, may wear the various changes of fashion, that the Kings furs of sables and ermines; and the Mayors of England deemed it a case of policy to check of London and their wives may wear the same the caprice and expence of the public, by a array as the bachelor-knight and their wives ; direct law against the universality of costly the Aldermen and Recorder of London, and all babits. As a specimen, my dear Urania, of the mayors and sheriff's of the cities and counthe wisdom of our forefathers on this subject, ties of the said realm, and their wives, may use I sball present yeu with the copy of an old | the same apparel as esquires and gentlemen parchwent which as been several hundred having possessions to the annual amount of years in the irou chest of my family ; and was forty pounds. originally copied from the statute signed by il “No mau, not baving the yearly value of the hand of Edward IV. bimself. This act was forty pounds, shall wear any fur of martens, declared and establisbed in the third year of or of pure grey, or of pure minevar; nor sball the reign of the above monarch, and is as the wife, the son, the daughter, or the servant follows:
of such a man; por shall any widow of less “ No knight, under the estate of a lord, nor !! possession, wear a girdle ornamented with gold his wife, shall wear any sort of cloth of gold, or with silver; nor any corset of silk made out por any kind of corsets (stomachers) worked i of the realw; nor any coverchief, exceeding the shillings.
value of three sbillings the square, under the , can as you will, in this country, you now penaliy of five marks.
I always see man as he is.-But let us return to “ No man, unless he be possessed of the our statute. yearly income of forty shillings, shall wear fus " No servant of husbandry, nor common tian-bustion, or fustian of Naples, wor scarlet, || labourer, nor servant of an artificer, shall wear nor cloth in grain, nor any furs, but of black in their garments any cloth not exceeding the or white lambs, under the forfeiture of forty price of two shillings the broad yard. Their
wives shall be restricted to the same; and they “No yeoman, nor any other person under shall not wear any coverchief (or shawl) of the degree of yeoman, shall wear in the apH more value than twelve pence the square. It parel for his body any bolsters, nor stuffing of l is also ordained that tbe servants and la. wool, cottov, or caddis, in his doublet; but a bourers aforesaid, shall not wear any bosen, lining only, according to the same, under the close or open, beyond the price of fourteen. penalty of six shillings and eight pence. ll pence the pair. Neither shall their wives wear
“ No knight, under the rank of a lord, | any girdies garnished with silver, under the esquire, or gentleman, nor any other person, il penalty of fortypence. shall wear any gown, jacket, or cloak, that is “No person of whatever estate, degree, or is not long enough, when he stand; upright, to condition, shall wear any cloth of gold, or silk cuver bis hips, even to the kuce, under the of purple col ur, except the Kive, the Queen, pevally of twenty shillings. And if any tailor and the royal family of the royal blood. shall make such sliori gowns, jackets, cluaks, "No person under the estate of a duke, or doublets, stuffed, or oherwise contrary to l shall wear any cloth of tissue, under the forthe ac!, the same shall be forfeited!" H feilure of forty marks.
Your Ladyslip will perceive by the two “Embroidered apparel, broached or guard. foregoing articles, that our furcfathers of the led with gold or silver, or goldsmith's work, is aristocracy were so jealous of the advantage prohibited to all persons below the dignity of of a fine shape, that when they had it not wall a duke, a marquis, au carl, or a knight of the turally, they applied to the aid of bolsters and gaiter.” . stuffing to supply the deficiency of nature, and
| So far the royal mandate against extrato prevent the plebeian ranks from invading
vagance in apparel! But, it has been said in their art of adding a cubit to their stature, or a our timez, “there is no act of parliament pair of broad shoulders on a really meagrell
I shoulders on a really meagre i that a man may not drive a coach and six frame, they turned the science of shape.prich i brough!" and, in like manner, the beaux ing into a privilege of Parliament ; and woe to and belles of former ages found a path to conthe poor caitif who ever presumed to soake in
duct them to vanity fair. However, satire it a breach! That these absolute lords, but
slipped in to aid regal prerogative, and the made up meis, might display their manu. l shifts of wit were showered upon the perseverfactured muscles to fair view, you perceive iug fopperies of our grandfathers and great. they were alone permitted to para le in short Il grandmothers. There is yet extant a little doublels. An Apollo of heaven's own chisseling
poem in the French language (but you must was inade to hide its beautiful properties, ifll go to the Harlean library lo see it), in wbich it belonged to a yeoman, under a long tunic the author (a poet of the thirteenth century), and an ample robe; while the poor quilted compares the ladies of his time to magpies. rcazikin, with a coroneted brow, was bailed || He thus proceeds :-" The pies, from nature, from the tailor's hands, in a close doublet and ll bear feathers of various colours ; so our ladies sham skirts, as the very perfection of the hu-l delight in diversity of ornaments; the pics man form divine! What strange perversion! I have long tails that trail jo the dirt; solle Bat we will not exclaim; we will ratber cou- || ladies make their tails a thousand times longer gratulate ourselves that a nobleman would | and more gaudy than those of pi s or of peanow be as much ashamed of patching his cocks."—What an uugallant son of the Muses! figure as patching his character; and tbat see ll If the fair daughters of Parcassus had served him right, he should have shared the fate of il “A certain baron lost, by death, the lady of Orpheus, and lost his head for his paius his heart and bed, and being in great grief Were I to compare the ladies of the nineteenth went to a boly bermit to console himself with century to a bird, in which would my Urania news of her blessed state in Paradise. The expect me to affix my comparison ?-not to anchorite led the mourning busband into his one only; for we have nåt sweet songstresses | cbapel, and told him to pray, and the state of whose melodious noies déclare them sisters to his deceased wife would surely he revealed. the nightingale? Have we not tender maidens | The baron obeyed, and in the midst of his wbose soft sighs whisper, “we sprung from the prostrations fell into a profound sleep. A turtle's pest.” And, loveliest Urania, have dream or vision presented itself before his we not thy beauteous sell, who, like the heall eyes, and he bcheld the soul of his lady ven-descended Halcyon, brings the gift of weighed in a balance, with an angel standing happiness wherever thou alighiest!
in one scale and the devil in 'he other. In the In the course of my researches into the ll scale with her were placed all her good works; mysteries of antiquity, I found great pleasure and in the opposito scale sat the ficod, surin the perusal of a packet of letters in manu rounded with her evil works, and with them script, brund together in the form of a missal, ll lay all ber fine clothing. The devil then said and which were addressed by a brave old to the agel:- This woman had ten divers knight of Normandy to his three daughters. wns, and as many coats; and you well know They contain excellent advice on the regula That a smaller number would bave been suftion of female manners in the conduct of life; Ilicicut for every thing necessary; and with the aod set forth some curious remarks on the sub value of one of those gowns or coats, no less jacts I am gow upon :-“ Fair daughters," || than fifty poor men might have been clotbed and he says, “I pray you that ye be pot the first ll kept froin coid, sickness, and perishing.' So to take new shapes and guises of array, of voll saying, the foul fiend gathered together all her men of strange countries." He then censures i gay garments, with her jewels, and lo! the rings the fasbion of wearing superfluous quantities which her lovers had given to her, and cast them of furs and trimmings, and adds, “the use of into tbe siaki:g side of the balance with her great purfiles and slit coats was first intro. Evil works, wliich iustantly struck to the duced by warton women, and was afterwards ground!— The angel saw the decision of most incontinently adopted by the princesses justice, and spreading his bright wings, few and ladies of England." Extravagance in
tar upward, whilst ilie rirbes and the lady qauntity as well as quality, of the contents of
dropped will the devil into the lake of eternal a lady's wardrobe, meels wi'h a severe rebuke ||
live!"-More of tbe kuight anon, from your from our venerable knight, who thus warns
PARIS his daughters :
| its amiable tendency, was its best recommesSONS OF ERIN.-A new Comedy has been dation. It was chaste, vigorous, and brisk; produced at this theatre, under the title of the occasionally luxuriant, and overflowing witb Sons of Erin, or Modern Sentiment. It is ascrib. sentiment; but, on the whole, it was better ed to the pen of an Irish lady, nirce to Mr. ihan the language of most modera Comedies. Sheridan, and is written with the laudable pur. This play has been received, deservedly, with po e ofextirpating prejudices against the sister great applause, and continues to be acted to country. The dialogue of the piece, next toli crowded houses.
SIR SAMUEL ROMILLY.-Sir Samuel Ro- plundering, buried the body; if, on the con. milly's own account of his origin and introduc- trary, he missed his aim, or the person, though tion of his fainily into Esgland:-) was born wounded, attempted to escape, he gave the and educated and have passed my whole life in signal to a dog which he had trained, and which England, with the exception of a short inter effectually prevented that design. The num. val which was spent in visiting foreign coun. ber of persons who had suddenly disappeared tries. My father too was born and educated | while passing through the wood, gave rise to in England, and spent his whole life in it. My suspicions, and led to the appretension of grandfather, it is true, was not an Englishman Angley and the woman, both of whom, struck by birth, but lie was an Englishman by choice. with remorse, made a full confession of their He was born the heir to a considerable lauded guilt. Angley and the woman were executed,
guilt. Angley and the wo estate at Montpellier, in the south of France. and the dog was shot by order of the Magis. His ancestors had early imbibed and adopted trates. the principles and doctrines of the reformed ANECDOTE OF THE FRENCH POLICE.ZA religion, and he had been educated himself in merchant of high respectability in Bourdeaux that religious faith. He had the misfortune to bad occasion to visit the metropolis upon live soon after the time when the Edict of commercial business, carrying with him bills Nantes-the great Toleration Act of the Pro- and money to a very large amount. On his testants of France, was revoked by Louis XIV. arrival at the gates of Paris, a genteel looking and he found bimself exposed to all the vexa. man opened the door of his carriage, and adtions and persecutions of a bigotted and tyran- | dressed him to this effect:"Sir, I have been nical Government, for worshippiog God in the waiting wpon you for some time; according to manner which he believed was most acceptable l my notes you were to arrive at this hour; and to him. He determined to free himself from your person, your carriage, and your portthis bondage; he abandoned his property, he manteau, exactly answering the description I tore himself from bis connections, and sought | hold in my hand, you will permit me to have an asylum in this land of liberty, where he bad the honour of conducting you to Monsieur De to support bimself only by his own exertions. Il Sartine.” The gentleman, astonisbed and He embarked himself in trade; be educated his | alarmed at this interruption, and still more so sous to useful trades; and he was contented at il at bearing the name of the Lieutenant of his dea:b, to leave them, instead of bis ori. Police mentioned, demanded to know what gival patrimony, no other inheritance than the Monsieur De Sartine wanted with bim; adding babits of industry he had given them, the ex-l at the same time, that he never had committed ample of his own virtuous life,-an hercditary | any offence against the laws, and that he could detestation of tyranny and injustice, and an i have no right to interrupt or detain hiri. The ardent zeal in the cause of civil and religious messenger declared himself perfectly ignorant freedom. To bim I owe it, among otber in of the cause of the detentiun; stating at the estimable blessings, that I am an Englishman./ same time, that when he had conducted bim
DEPRAVITY.-A.peasaut, of the name of to Mous. De Sarline, be should have executed J. Angley, was lately convicted at Mentz, li his orders, which were merely ministerial. along with a woman' with whom he cohabited, After some further explanations, the gentleof having murdered ten persons during eigh
man permitied the officer to conduct him to teen months. . It appeared, by the evidence, the hotel of the Lieutenant of Police. Mons. that the criminal was a wood cutter, and re.
De Sartine received him with great politeness; sided six miles from the city: being idle, and land after requesting bim to be seated, to his desirous of subsisting without labour, he de. ll great astonishment be described his portmante termined to rob all single travellers who passed!teau, and told him the exact sum in bills and through a neighbouring wood; for this pur- ! specie which he had brought with him to pose he used to conceal bimself in a high tree, l'aris, and where he was to lorige, bis usual and take deliberate aim at his victim : if he | time of going to bed, and a number of other fell, he descended to finish his work, and after' circumstances, which the gentleman bad con. No. XXXI. Vol. V-N.