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off; but the elbows were cold, it looked com- N rinue to be made a walking or dancing length, fortless, and the more close shielding out-door and are trimmed round i be bottom with lace. dresses resified their station : this mantle, High morning dresses continue to be made called the Badajoz cloak, and the Pilgrim's hat to lace up the front of the bust with corandlung mantle of fine kersey mere, are pow don of various colours, to suit the robe, gais very universal, and the present pelisse, over a s:omachor of the same material as the in comp'iance with ancient custom, which goun : The only dinner diess which is marle renders velvet very outre at this season of the high is that of the Grey Nuns; a simple and year, is made of sarsnet, and furs are no more elegant attire, consisting of French grey sarsto be seen; unless they are round a pelerine of net or satin, trimmed round the bottom, salin to suit the colour of the dress they are sleeves, and down the front with two rows of worn with, and this bordering is then generally narrow black velvet and buttons of jet; over of swansdown: the Parisian melbod of wrar Ibis a large rosary and cross of Egyptian roseing the hat and feather, or bonnet and flowers | wood, ebony, or ivory stained of a bright black, entirely of one colour, is much adopted. is an indispensible ornanent, the cross de.

The bonnets are in various forms, but the scendiog below the girule: if any cap is worn sempstress bonnet takes place of the cottage; with this, it is the Agnes mob, but the hair ft ties under the chin with long and broad elegantly disbevelled, without any ornament, strings, which crossing under the chin are is the most generai with this costume. brought to the summit of the crown, where White crapes embroidered with silver and they tie and form a bow: these bonnets are a bright coloured sarsuets, such as Bur. close and convenient shade to tbe face for | goudy, rose colour, and Maria Louisa blue, walking ; the crowns of all morning boonets are in universal fayour for evening parties; the are made much more high and spiral, tban Maria Louisa blue is a dye of peculiar eclat, they have been for some years. The Yeoman's be!ween the bright cerulean and the Clarence hat, Regency hat, and French college cap, are blue: sarsnel and satin gowns of these co. yet much worn.

lours are trimmed with Regency crape trim. The mode of dressing the hair bas not bren mning, pearls, bugles, wbite or coloured beads, much altered for some months; some ladies, ll according to the taste of the wearer; but fine but very few, become it, draw ibe hair entirely ludia muslios are invariably trimmed with lace away from the face, and bring it, in the of almo t a cobweb texture, and is profusion. Chinese style, to a raised koot on the summit Jewellery is much worn; and the Opera, the of the head, which is ornamented with a grand midnight rout and gala present somewreath of grouped Aowers. White satin caps rimes a complete blaze of splendour ; especially are worn with green ornaments; leaves with in the variegated coloured gems, which, wiila out flowers, such as oak without acorns, gera

the white dresses, will ever be unrivalled fivour pium witbout the blossom, deadly night-stade rites; a new article in corneliau bas also been. with its green berry, and the trefoil or sham introduced, which from the difficulty attend. rock made of silk and green foil, did not ex ing its attainrent, makes some necklaces of pire with St. Patrick's day, but is still worn by That article of immense value; cach bead of some of our Eng'i h as well as Hiberujan the necklace and braceleis is as large as a sparladies.

row's egg; and is half a bright red and half The make of the gowns, frocks, and slips white coruclian. Diamonds with black dresses, bave varied but little within these last three black velvet college caps, or small elegant mouths; only that in full dress the robe is hats, turned up in front, with a large diamond made rather lower in the back than formerly ; || crescent, and white gossamer feathers falling the frocks in sarsnet have a smali fullness; in over the left side, are yet prevalent as an muslin or leno they are made quite plain : | Opera head.dress : baudeaux also of diamonds, trains and demi trains are only worn when the set in close clusters, form a rich and glittering dresses are made of sarsnet, crape, or gossa ornament on very dark hair, while pearls and mer satin; muslin and leno frocks still cons emeralds intermingled with the bright chescut

tresses, rubies, amethysts, and sapphires with ,, with gold, nor any fur cf sables, under tbe the faxen curls of la belle blonde, form to penalty of twenty marks, to be paid to the gether, at a public spěctacle, a most brilliant King. The children of lords are excepted in and enchanting coup-dæil. Solitaire necklaces, this probibiton. with suspended crosses, generally of diamonds, “ No bachelor kniglit, nor his wife, shall pearls, or topaz, are much worn; the rich dark wear any cloth of velvet upon velvet, under topaz should never be thrown aside; in vain the forfeiture of twenty marks to the King. the pink and pale topaz were brought firward | The knights of the garter and their wives are to rival it; the orange coloured topaz has re herein exceptid. gained its former pre-eminence; it is becoming “No person under the degree of a lord, shall 10 all complexions.

wear any cloth of a purple colour, under the Half-bools continue to be worn in the moro penalty of ten pounds. ing, and are more prevalent in cloth than kid, “No esquire, nor gentleman under the rank those uf French grey, fringed and laced with of a knight, nor their wives, shall wear any the same colour, are pow most in requisition. || Felvet, figured satin, nor any counterfeit closh Our fair countrywomen have entirely exploded of silk, nor any wrought corsets, under the the sandal for the more elegant ligit Italian | penalty of ten marks. The sons of lords, with slipper, for full and half.dress : the colours of their wives and daughters, and esquires for these slippers are various; for full dress chiefly the King's body, with their wives, are exceptd white kid, pink or white salin; for half dress in this clause. they are of different colours in kid, jean, and “No esquire nor gentleman, por any other chagrin silk.

man or woman, under the rank aforesaid,

shall wear any damask or satin, under the THE MIRROR OF FASHION.

penalty of one huured pence. There is a In a series of Letters from a Gentleman of rank

long exception to this clause, including do. and taste, to a Lady of Quality.

mestic esquires, sergrants, oficers of the LETTER X.

King's household, yeomen of the crown, Having displayed before the eyes of your yeomen of the King's chamber, csquires, and Ladyship the various treasures of the Auglo- gentlemen possessing the yearly value of one Norman looms, it may be requisite to in- | hundred pounds. form you that variety was not less prevalent “Rememher that the seneschal (the high in the fourteenth ceniury than in that of our steward), chamberlain, treasurer, comptroller own extravagant age. So great was the excess of the King's household, his carver, and with which all ranks of persons conformed to kuighis for his lady, and their wives, may wear the various changes of fashion, that the Kings furs of sables and ermines; and the Mayors of England deemed it a case of policy to check of London and their wives may wear the same the caprice and expence of the public, by a array as the bachelor-knight and their wives; direct law agaivst tbe universality of costly the Aldermen and Recorder of Londo!, and all babits. As a specimen, my dear Urania, of the mayors and sheriff's of the cities and counthe wisdom of our forefathers on this subject, ties of the said realm, and their wives, may use I sball present yeu with the copy of an old the same apparel as esquires and gentlemen parchweat which as been several hundred having possessions to the annual amouni of years in the irou chest of my family ; and was forty pounds. originally copied from the statute signed by “No man, not baving the yearly value of the hand of Edward IV. bimself. This act was forty pounds, shall wear any fur of martens, declared and establisbed in the third year of or of pure grey, or of pure minerar; nor sball the reign of the above monarch, and is as the wife, the son, the daughter, or the servant follows:

of such a man; por shall any widow of less “ No knight, under the estate of a lord, nor possession, wear a girdie ornamented with gold his wife, shall wear any sort of cloth of gold, or with silver; nor any curset of silk made out por any kind of corsets (stomachers) worked i of the realw; nor any coverchief, exceeding the

value of three sbillings the square, under the can as you will, in this country, you now penally of five marks.

always see man as he is.-But let us return to “ No man, unless he be possessed of the our statute. yearly income of forty shillings, shall wear fus " No servant of husbandry, nor common tian-bustion, or fustian of Naples, nor scarlet, labourer, nor servant of an artificer, shall wear nor cloth in grain, nor any furs, but of black

in their garments any cloth not exceeding the or white lambs, under the forfeiture of forty price of two shillings the broad yard. Their shillings.

wives shall be restricted to the same; and they No yeoman, vor any other person under sball not wear any coverchief (or shawl) of the degree of yeoman, shail wear in the ap more value than twelve pence the square. It parel for his body any bolsters, nor stuffing of lis also ordained that the servants and la. wool, cottov, or caddis, in his doublet; but a bourers aforesaid, shall not wear any bosen, lining only, according to the same, under the close or open, beyond the price of fourteenpenalty of six shillings and eight pence. pence the pair. Neither shall their wives wear

“ No knight, under the rank of a lord, || any girdies garnished with silver, under the esquire, or gentleman, nor any other person, il penalty of fortypence. shall wear any gown, jacket, or cloak, that “ No person of whatever estate, degree, or is not long enough, when he stands upright, to condition, shall wear any cloth of gold, or silk cover bis hips, even to the kace, under the of purple col ur, except the King, the Queeu, penalty of twenty shillings. And if any tailor and the royal family of the royal blood. shall make such short gowns, jackets, cluaks, “ No person under the estate of a duke, or doublets, stuffed, or o herwise contrary to shall wear any cloth of tissue, under the forthe ac!, the same shall be forfeited!"

feilure of forty marks. Your Ladyship will perceive by the two “ Embroidered apparel, broached or guardforegoing articles, that our forcfathers of the

ed with gold er silver, or goldsmith's work, is aristocracy were so jealous of the advantage l prolibited to all persons below the dignity of of a fine shape, that when they had it not ba a duke, a marquis, au carl, or a knight of the turally, they applied to the aid of bolsters and stuffing to supply the deficiency of nature, and So far the royal mandate against extra. to prevent the plebeian ranks from invading || vagance in apparel! But, it has been said in their art of adding a cubit to their stature, or a

our timez, “there is no act of parliament pair of broad shoulde s oa

a really meagre

that a man may not drive a coach and six frame, they turued the science of shape.patch- librough!" and, in like manner, the beaux ing into a privilege of Parliament; and woe to

and belles of former ages fuuod a path to conthe poor caitif who ever presumed to make in

duct them to vanity fair. However, salire it a breach! That these absolute lords, but

slipped in 10 aid regal prerogative, and the made up meis, might display their manu

shifts of wit were showered upon the perseverfactured muscles to fair view, you perceive | ivg fopperies of our grandfathers and greatthey were alone permitted to prale in short

grandmothers. There is yet extant a little doublets. An Apollo of heaven's own cbisseling poem in the French language (but you must was inade to hide its beautiful properties, if go to the Harlean library to see il), in which it belonged to a yeoman, under a long tunic the author (a poet of the thirteenth century), and an ample robe; while the poor quilted compares the ladies of his time to magpies. raaikin, with a coroneted brow, was hailed He thus proceeds :-" The pies, from nature, from the tailor's hands, in a close doublet and bear feathers of various colours ; so our ladies sham skirts, as the very pe: fection of the hu- delight in diversity of ornaments; the pics man form divine! What strange perversion! || bave long tails that trail in the dirt; so the But we will not exclaim; we will rather cou ladies make their tails a thousand times longer gratulate ourselves that a nobleman would and more gaudy than those of pi s or of peanow be as much ashamed of patching bis cocks.”—What an uvgallant son of the Muses! figure as patching his character; and that see If the fair daughters of Parkassus had served

gaiter.”

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him right, he should have shared the fate of

II

“A certain baron lost, by death, the lady of Orpheus, and lost his head for his pains his heart and bed, and being in great grief Were I to compare the ladies of ihe nineteenth went to a boly bermit to console himself with century to a bird, in which would my Urania news of her blessed state in Paradise. The expect me to affix my comparison ?-not to anchorite led the mourning husband into his one only; for we have nit sweet songstresses | chapel, and told him to pray, and the state of whose melodious notes declare them sisters to his deceased wife would surely he revealed. the nightingale? Have we not tender maidens The baron obeyed, and in the midst of bis whose soft sighs whisper, “we sprang from the prostrations fell into a profound sleep. A tartle's nest.” And, loveliest Urania, have dream or vision presented itself before his we not thy beauteous self, who, like the hea. eyes, and he beheld the soul of his lady ver-descended Halcyon, brings the gift of weighed in a balance, with an angel standing happiness wherever thou alighiest!

in one scale and the devil in 'he other. In the In the course of my researches into the scale with her were placed all her good works ; mysteries of antiquity, I found great pleasure and in the oppositscale sat the fiend, sur. in the perusal of a packet of letters in manu rounded with her evil works, and with them script, brund together in the form of a missal, ll lay all ber fine clothing. The devil then said and which were addressed by a brave old to the a: gel:- This woman had ten divers knight of Normandy to his three daughters. | 3wns, and as many coats; and you well know They contain excellent advice on the regula.

that a smaller number would bave been suftion of female manners in !he conduct of life; ficient for every thiog necessary; and with the and sel fortb some curious remarks oli the sub value of one of those gowns or coats, no less jects I am bow upon :-“ Fair daughters," than fifty poor men might have been clotbed and he says, “I pray you that ye be pot the first kept from coid, sickness, and perishing.' So to take new shapes and guises of array, of wo saying, the foul fiend gathered together all ber men of strange countries.” He then censures gay garments, with her jewels, and lo! the rings the fasbion of wearing superfluous quantities which her lovers had given to her, and cast them of furs and trimmiogs, and adds, “the use of into the siaking side of the balance with her great purfiles and slit coats was first intro. evil works, wliich instantly struck to the duced by warton women, and was afterwards goud!—The angel S?w the decision of most incontinently adopted by the princesses | justice, and spreading his bright wings, few and ladies of England." Extravagance in

tar upward, whilst the rirbes and the lady qauntity as well as quaiity, of the contents of dropped witla the devil in!o the lake of eternal a lady's wardrobe, meels wi'h a severe rebuke

live!”—More of the kui; bt anon, from your from our venerable knight, who thus warns

PARIS. his daughters :

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MONTHLY MISCELLANY,
INCLUDING VARIETIES, CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

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LYCEUM.

its amiable tendency, was its best recommerSONS OF ERIN.-A new Comedy has been dation. It was chaste, vigorous, and brisk; pro-luced at this theatre, under the title of the occasionally luxuriant, and overfowing witb Sons of Erin, or Modern Sentiment. It is as rib- sentiment; but, on the whole, it was better ed to the pen of an Irish lady, piice to Mr. ihan the language of most modera Comedies. Sheridan, and is written with the laudable pur. This play has been received, deservedly, with po e ofextirpating prejudices against the sister great applause, and continues to be acted to countıy. The dialogue of the piece, next to l. crowded houses.

SIR SAMUEL ROMILLY.-Sir Samuel Ro- plundering, baried the body; if, on the con. milly's own account of his origin and introduc trary, he missed his aim, or the person, though tion of his fainily into Ecgland:-) was born rounded, atempted to escape, he gave the and educated and have passed my whole life in signal to a dog which he had trained, and which England, with the exception of a short inter-, effectually prevented that design. The numval which was spent in visiting foreign coun.

ber of persons who had suddenly disappeared tries. My father too was born and educated while passing through the wood, gave rise to in England, and spent his whole life in it. My suspicions, and led to the apprehension of grandfather, it is true, was not an Englishman Angley and the woman, both of whom, struck by birth, but lie was an Englishman by choice. with remorse, made a full coofession of their He was born the heir to a considerable lauded guilt. Angley and the womau were executed, estate at Montpellier, in the south of Frar.ce. and the dog was shot by order of the Magis. His ancestors had early imbibed and adopted trates. the principles and doctrines of the reformed ANECDOTE OF THE FRENCH POLICE-A religion, and he had been educated himself in merchant of high respectability in Bourdeaux that religious faith. He had the misfortune to i had occasion to visit the metropolis upon live soon after the time when the Edict of commercial business, carrying with him bills Nantes-the great Toleration Act of the Pro- and money to a very large amount. On bis testants of France, was revoked by Lonis XIV. arrival at the gates of Paris, a genteel looking and he found bimself exposed to all the vexa. man opened the door of his carriage, and adtions and persecutiors of a bigotted and tyran- dressed him to this effect:~"Sir, I have been nical Government, for worshipping God in the waiting upon you for some time; according to manner which he believed was most acceptable my notes you were to arrive at this hour; and to him. He determined to free himself from your person, your carriage, and your portthis bondage ; he abandoned his property, be manteau, exactly answering the description I tore himself from bis connections, and sought | bold in my hand, you will permit me to have an asylum in this land of liberty, where he had the honour of conducting you to Monsieur De to support bimself only by his own exertions. Sartine.” The gentleman, astonisbed and He embarked himself in trade; he educated his alarmed at this interruption, and still more so sous to useful trades; and he was contented at at bearing the name of the Lieutenant of his dea:b, to leave them, instead of bis ori. Police mentioned, demanded to know what gival patrimony, no other inseritance than the Monsieur De Sartine wanted with bim; adding babits of industry he had given them, the ex at the same time, that he never had committed ample of his own virtuous life,-an hereditary any offence against the laws, and that he could detestation of tyranny and injustice, -and an have no right to interrupt or detain him. The ardent zeal in the cause of civil and religious messenger declared bimself perfectly ignorant freedom. To bim I owe it, among otber in- of the cause of the detentiun; stating at the estimable blessings, that I am an Englishman. same time, that when he had conducted him

DEPRAVITY.-A.peasant, of the name of to Mons. De Sarline, be should have executed J. Angley, was lately convicted at Mentz, his orders, wbich were merely ministerial. along with a woman' with whom he cohabited, After some further explanations, the gentleof having murdered ten persons during eigh- | man permited the officer to condnct him to teen months. . It appeared, by the evidence, the hotel of the Lieutenant of Police. Mons. that the criminal was a wood cutter, and ve.

De Sartine received him with great politeness; sided six miles from the city; being idle, and

and after requesting bim to be seated, to his desirous of subsisting without labour, he de- great astonishment he described his portmantermined to rob all single travellers who passed teau, and told him the exact sum in bills and through a neighbouring wood; for this pura specie which he had brought with him to pose he used to conceal bimself in a bigh tree, l'aris, and where he was to lorige, bis usual and take deliberate aim at his victim : if he time of going to bed, and a number of other fell, he descended to finish his work, and after ' circumstances, which the gentleman bad con. No. XXXI. Vol. V.-N.S

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