JUNE, 1812.


No. 1.--MORNING DISHABILLE. with oatural ease, or with a little artful care An bigb dress of fine French cambricor pain is taught to twist in those beautiful ringiets, India musiir, richly embroidered round the bot. whicb formed the head-dress of those cele tom with a deep border; a demi sleeve, orna brated fair ones who composed the female mented a-l'antique surmounting the long sleeve, part of Charles the Second's lovely Court; wbich is finished at the wrist by a narrow and such is now the most favourite way of ruffe ; the bust adorned partly en militaire, dressing the hair. partly a l'antique, to correspond with the demi For out-door morning costume, we bebold sleeve: The whole of the upper part of the dress these ringlets peeping from beneath the small oroamente i by a profusion of lace, and finish cottage bonnet, now almost as we once beed at the throat by an old English ruff. Pea- || fore observed, become a national boouet: and sani's cap, with two rows of lace set on full, instead of the Hower, the myre favourite ornaconfined under the chin by a band formed of ment under the right side of the bonnet, is a the same m-terial as the cap, and terminating full cock ide of ribbon, the colour correspond. in a bow on the crown. Plain black kid or jeaning with that of the dress. Spens rs have slippers.

taken the place of pelisses, and promi-e to be

very general; the most prevailing are of rich No. 2.-EQUESTRIAN COSTUME.

figured sarsnet or pale pink shot with white; Au habit of bright green, Orvamented down

a few black velvet ones bave also appeared the front, and embroidered a! the cuffs à-la

over white dresses, fastened over the bosom militaire with black. Small riding hat of

with a gold brooch. The cottage muntle of black beaver, fancifully adorned with gold

fine white net, trimmed all round with lace, cordon and tassels, with a long ostrich feather

the slope of the neck formed by plaits, and of green in front; or a green hat with black

ornamented with a bow, with the corners tassels and black feather. Blak balf boots,

imply rounded, made its appearance during laced and fringed with green. York tan gluves

the few sultry days in the beginning of May, When this dress is worn as a cusicle or

together with black net shawls, worked in walking costume, it is made as a pelisse wi:b.

different colours, purple worked with amber, out the riding jacket, and confined round the

and black lace. Shawls fastened with a dia. waist by a fancy belt of black and grien.

mond brooch : these latter articles appeared This habit was made by Mr. S. Clark, 37, chiefly in carriages or for evening costume. Golden-square.

The whalebone, and the straw work of Rus

si in invention, though rather beavy looking GENERAL OBSERVATIONS

articles, seem much in favour, but chiefly we

imagine from the gh p'tronage they have FASHION AND DRESS.

obtained, and which patron ge is ever readily Fashion, says a raodera author, ought ever afforded to encourage each new art, and emto have nature for its basis; and we may ven. ploy the industrious female. ture to assert, that never were the laws of An alteration has now taken place in the Dature and taste so well observed as at the make of the gowns, of great advantage to the present period. The disguise of powder long bust; the front forms a point before, and is throwo aside, the glossy beauty of a fine bead considerably lowered ou each side of the bo. of hair is uow properly appreciated as it waves som; short sleeves are becoming universal,

No. XXXII. Vol. V, -NS,


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and round frocks made lower in the back, , elegant light, and apparently fragile, Lisbon than for some months pist, are very preva chain; some of these ponderous chains are lent. Higb dresses still continue to be woru worth from fiforen to twenty guineas; we ges only as a moruing disbabille; and many | erally see depending from them a small adopt for a moroing dress a simple frock, and French watch, in an enamelled hunting case, shield the neck only with a plain Palestine or a cherished portrait enclosed in the same tippet of the same material as tbe frock. concealınent. Maltge crosses of every kind

The Portugu se sarsnet, an evident imita- of jewellery are also worn in town, and cornetion of that beautiful article the French le lian hearts with a very small key and padlock vantine, bas lately made its appearance; but affixed to them. it has all the thickbess of the levantige witb. Friuged balf-boots are universally adopted out its elegant softness, and seems best appro- || by our elegantés; and satin, silk, kid, and priated to travelling dresses. The trimmings || jean of varivals colours, in the form of the for the spangled crapes, Opera nets, and other | Italian slipper, still continue to be worn in full light articles made use of for full dress at this or half dress. season, are now of the slighiest texture; the The prevailing colours are bright greens Brandenburgh, so loug in favour, now gives of various stades, cornelian blue, pale piuk, place to a beautiful gossamer kind of silk Maria Louisa blue, jonquil, and slate colour. friuge, the dark and rich cheni'le is succeeded by the feather gymp, or light trimming of wreath flowers, wbile the delicate, yet costly THE MIRROR OF FASHION. pearl, yet re:ains its pre-eminence on ibe

In a series of Letters from a Gentlemau of rank coloured crape or gossanier satin.

and taste, to a Lady of Quality. Nuns veils, both black and white, bandeaux of various kinds, groupes of flowers, and white satin, or lace caps, ornamented with pearl

LETTER XI. tassels, and a diamond brooch fixed in frunt, Your Ladyship expressed so much ples. form the most prominent embellisbments for

sure in the perusal of the old Knight of Northe head; but the favourite bead dress is the | mandy's sentimen's on dress, that it is with hair disposed of in a quantity of luxuriant great alacrity I obey your injunction to apply ringlets, like that of Henrietta of France, | again to the venerable adviser, and repeat to wife to Charles I. or of E'eanor Gwyon, orna you the continuation of his huts on the momented only with a few strings of pearls, fur mentous subject. Grave heads may smile at full dress, and a diamond comb at ihe very su stately an epith being applied to so back of the head. Flowers are most worn in variable a matter ; but a very politic noble. half dress; jewellery is more adopted on full mau has observed, “ Whatever it is worth dress caps, Auwers being deemed too simple. while to do, it is wo:th while to do well."

Jo the article of jewellery, the aqua marina, | Heace, if it be necessary to array the human set round wieb pearls, now claims the pre- || body in garments, it is necessary, by the laws emineuce for brouches, bracelets, and head of taste and common sense, that we shall not ornaments ; its verdant colour is more sum.

disguise nor deform it by the raiment we put Hier.like than the darker emerald. Brilliants

on, but rather display and adorn its native for rings, set in clusters, are worn on the fore beauties to the best advantage.--Selling down finger, and rings composed of small enamelled this as an axiom, I shall not farther appo. heartsease, and tbe simple little blue flower | logize for the deep attention I pay to these called Forget me not, are elegant articles in ornamental discussions; but, m'king my bow fancy jewellery, and appropriale presents for to my Norman friend, shall listen to his re. friendship or love; they are at present worn marks, and report them to your Ladyship. by many of our fashionable brides, as guards He not only reproves the dames of bis time, to the golden feiter they have just put on. A for the gorgeoilsness of their apparel, but also massy chain of gold has now succeeded to the W for the hours they devoted to their toilet.


Now.a-days," says he,“ before these fair shops, way, all Storbridge fair, will scarcely young damsels bave combed their beads, and furnis'.—A ship is souner rigged by far than set their head dress in order, and fully attired a nice gentlewoman made ready." themselves in their rich and giltering habits, In this point of wasting time over the busi. the church procession is past, the masses vess of the toilet, certainly our nocestors in sang, and divine service is finished.”

every ascent, from our grandmothers upOur Kaight theu admonishes his daugtters wards, were much greater delinquents than of the dang-r of sceing more faces than their the ladies of the present day. With the own, if they bestow too many glauces on their

fashion of fardingales, huops, tigbt-lacings, mirror.

and hair-powder, hure disappeared the most “My dear children,” continues he,“ there

rapacious calls on the precious bours of woonce dwelt a lady so fast hy the church, that she

We no longer bear of our wives and could not fail of hearing the bells ring for daughters standing two hours under the hands prayers; but sbe took so much time every day of the mantua-maker, and sitting iwice as in dr: ssing herself, that she never complet d many more beneath the curtiug irous of the business until the service was more than Monsitur Frizeur. All this waste of life vur half ovir. However, it bappened one Sunday, fair dames bave rede med from annihilation. when she had been even longer than usual We see the buckram suits of past days, witla altiring herself, tbe devil was permitted to their sugar-loaf tetes, consigned to be obli. present himself bebind her; and seeing his vion they deserve, and our wives and daughvisage in the lowking-glass, it was so horrible ters come ligh:ly, with the morcing tark, from that she lost her senses, and remained in that their roums, atsired with the easy grace of deplorabie state for many years, a warning to wood-nymphs, and with their beautiful tresses all the vain women who came to bebold the sbining in the lustre of oature alone, and awful judgment."

playing in artless beauty on their bloom.ng Indeed, if we are to believe the statement cheeks. Long nay my fair countrywomen wbich a certain dramatic poet who wrote in maintain Ibis sensible and clegant deference the sixternth century (Anthovy Brewer, by for the behesis of nature; long may they esti. name), gives of a lady's toilet paraphernalia mate time as of a value too incalculable to be ju these ancient times, we shall not wonder

sacrificed to the caprices of fashion. that day sinks into night, and night rises to

But wbile I congratulate your bewitching moro agaia before all the duties of corporeal

sex on the economical arrangement of their adornmint are performed. Our poet speaks Sours, I dare not, wish the same warreth comof arra ying a youthful companion for a pliment them on their economy, at all times, frolic thus:

in the quantity and quality of their habilia “ It is five hours ago since I set a dozen

meuls. The seasons, my fair correspondent, maids to attire a boy like a nice gentlewoman;

are the best dictatos ou this affair. Shall I but there is such doing with their looking- | wbisper to you a little bint on the subject, glasses; pinning, un-pinning, setting, up

which no less a personage thau the renowned setting, furmings, and conformings; painting Lord Buile gh gave to bis pretty daughter, of blue veins, and rosy cheeks; such a stir

wben a certain Lord, wbom he much fawith combs, cascanets, purls, falls, squares, voured, was coming a wooing to her ? I sup. busks, bodices, scarfs, necklaces, carkovels, pose the fair Cecil was, like some of her beau. raba'oes, borders, tires, fans, pali-adoes, puffs, teous descendants, too foud of allowing the ruffs, cuffs, muffs, pustles, fusles, partlets, outward air to breathe on her pulisbed limbs; frislets, bandlets, allets, corslets, pendulets, | for be tbus addressed ber :amulets, ænnules, bracelets, and so mauy lets,

“ In the Court of Pbilip and Mary there that the poor lady of the toilet is scarce were two lovely sisters, the eldest of whoni had dressed to the girdle. And now there is such been promised in marriage by her father, a calling for fardingales, kirtles, busk-points, knight of fame, to a young nobleman who shoe-ties, and tbe like, that seven pedlars' was possessed of a fiue figure, and as fine ar

eslate. The day was appointed for i be betrothed where I then was. He had never seen her. A Earl to make a visit to the young ladies, for time was anuounced for his visit; and the he bad not yet seen eitler. Tb- ladies were yi ung bride, willing to see wbether the heart informed of his approach; and the father de- of ber nuble suitor could single her out from sived them to appear in habits suitable to amongst her ladies, determined to leave him Their rank, to do him and themselves credit. to guess. Accordingly, when the berald au. The eldest, who was the handsomest of the pounced the Elector's arrival, she set off with iwain, aud of a parson of the most beautiful two of her ladies, and a small escort of gentle proportions, was so eager to shew ber delicate men (one of whom was your humble servant), shape and slender waist, that she clothed her. on a riding party. She left orders that the self in a garment called a coal-hardy, without Elector right follow her if he pleased. Whilst any living or fur, wbicb sat so close to her, that

we were coursing the country, a tremendous you might see the very beaving of her breast, shower of snow and bail fell. The Princess and almost every throb of her little vain and her ladies were dressed in scarlet habits, heart. It being the depth of winter, this vesi, embroidered with gold. Their comparat vely though suited to display the figure, was ill sligbt texture was soon penetrated by the wet. adapted to the severity of the season; and Sir Walter Ral igh-like, I led the way 10 bence she appeared to great disadvantage, for lay my coat at the Priucess's feet; two gentlethe cold seized ber limbs, benumbing their men did the same to the female attendants, motions, aud so petrifying the otherwise free

bui they rejected the offer with contempt. How of her blood, that she looked pale; nay, | The Elector with his splendid train was then black and blue, and shivered, and spoke with in sight, and they refused to put on the chattering teeth, and looked like any thing coats, and appear frights in the eyes of the but a beauty. Meanwhile her sister, regards approaching Court. Noi so the lovely Prin. less of shape, had invested herself with think

cess, she threw my blue coat over her delicale garments, well lined with fur, and so appeared figure, and buttoning it across ber breast, cerwarm and healthy, with ber complexiou fsir as tainly looked more like a country marketthe lily, and cheeks glowing as the rose. The woman, than a young beauty approaching a consequence was, that the youngest lady at. princely lover. But in the action the lover tracted the attenziou of the nobleman, so ihat descried the noble mind which disdains out. he totally neglected the inte uded bride, and, ward trappings wheu opposed to propriety; having obtained the consent of the father, in and, springing from his horse, he hailed the a few days married the prodent damsel in the lady of the blue coat as his Princess, aud pelereen."

kissing her fair hand, led her away with soft Tlvis story of Lord Burleigh reminds me whispers; whilst a loud laugh was raised of one to which I was an eye-witness, some against the dripping finery of the lady. dozen years ago, in Germany. My scene lies alteudants, and their perversity. likewise in the must inclement of the winter Urania, the Princess of my heart, will bave months. I was then at

too much good seuse not to pardon the moElector of the neighbouring Sate bad been tive of this long story from her aíbanced to one of ihe Princesses of the Court


- The young



trails, which is now the only lucrative braucb The ExuIDITION OF THE ROYAL ACA- of art, with some few exceptions, which the DEMY.-The character of the Exbibition of painter can pursue. There are very few bisthe year stands very bigh in respect to por. torical pictures in the present Exbibition, and,

with the single exception of one by the Presi- , and, upon the whole, we pronounce this to be dent, Mr. West, there is none which lays the very best historical picture wbich the artist claim to any great degree of praise.

has produced. No 162.–Saul before Samuel and the Prophets, No. 126.- Lavinia - II. Thomson, R. A. B. Il'est, P R. A This is a fine historical

This composition cnsists of two figures, La. landscape : the subject is that of Saul, filled

vinia and bör mother; the character of the by a sudden and astonish og inspi:ation, mother is cer'ainly not well imagined ; but strelcbed baked ou the ground, and pro- that of Lavinia has great ter:drvess and phesying before Samuel. The figures are beauty; her eyes are invist with tears, and very bumerous, and the groupes are distri.

the expression of her face is peculiarly happy; bated and balanced with grea: juigment. In the colouring is very appropriate to the subthe centre is Saul, naked; bis crown is on bis jet, and the work itself is entitled to bigh head; his unind under the impulse of inspira- | praise. tion, and his body labouring with the sacred

(To be continued.) agilat on. The groupe on one side cousists of Samuel and the altendaut prophets; imme

LYCEUM. diately next to Siul is a youth wbom we sup. DEVIL'S BRIDGE.- A new piece has been pose to be David, and the groupe next to Saul produced by the Managers of this theatre, unon the left is composed of priests and at. der the title of the Devil's Bridge. It is an tendants. To the back ground is the city of opera, and the music is composed by Horne Naioth in Ramah, and immediately before the and Brabam. The fable takes a wide swerp of buildings are pastoral groupes employd in romantic possibil.ty, which admits almost agriculture, vine dressing, and the common every incident within the verge of nature to works of industry; cattle are iniruduced, and astonish and surprise; and which, as not repumerous groupes of men, women, and chil. stricted by the necessity of copying manners, dren. The landscape is at once grand and and drawing characters with the pencil of beau:iful. This composition does the artist truth, indulges in an unlimiled range over the great honour. It has all the strength and region of fancy, and sports with beings of its' fidelity of the Roman character of art, as seen own creating. The romantic fable, however, in the finest works of Raphael, combined with is very well suited to an opera, of which the the grand style of the Caracci, and the classic prominent merit should be its music, and fancy of Pouss.n. Upon the whole this picture which surly critics will put to the test of pro. must delight every one who has judgment to bability, and torture by the canons of nature undersand its merits.

and truth.-The Devil's Bridge abounds with No. 163.-The Infuncy of Jupiter --H. Thom. fine music and striking incidents; and, from son, R. A.-—This picture, though it has some i he scene being laid among the Piedmontese thing of an academical stiffness about it, and Alps, the painter has been called in to aid the wants that liberal flow and unrestrained grace fforts of the author aud composer. The conwhich belong to compositions of this kind, cluding scene, which represents the Frozen does great credit to the ingenious artist, who im. | Pinnacle of Mount Cenis in the back ground, proves in almost every work which he produces and the Devil's Bridge in front, was bighly The figure of the infant Jove, sporting with creditable to the machinists and painters. The tbe mimic thunder, is very fine; it has a blowing up of the bridge with gunpowder, by mixture of graudeur and sweetness; the union wbich the career of a band of assassins was of iufantine simplicity wiih the marks of suddenly put an end to, leaving the hero aud nascent greatness. The head is very fine in. neroine to the tranquil er joymeut of the cem. deed, and the attitude and movement of the pany of each other for life, is one of the most figure are extremely beautiful. The groupe striking denouements in any modern drama : as of Cretan nurses, and all the other append. it was, it inade the piece conclude with more ages of the scene, are very time and well con. than usual splendour. Brabam existed his ceived. The colouring is extremely happy, l) great powers, both as an actor and a sir gers

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