« 前へ次へ »
fuement of a ribband, and is called the light aqua marina, and next her face con fines Muntilla Infantado; the hat generally worn the bright colourd net by a bandeau of dark with tbis is of simple wbite satin, en toque, emeralds, or a Ceylon ruby-coloured pet, covered with a nuu's veil. The Installation head. spotted with pink, and coafined by a boodcau dress is also someumes worn under a long veil, of the very best dark Oriental rubies; and to consisting of the hair elegantiy dressed, and
ladies who bare not very five hair, these when the veil is thrown on one side, on the 1.ets with bandeaux form both a simple and other is discovered a bandeau or clusters of elegant head.dress. jeweis, or short strings of pearls falling over In jewellery, pearls, amci bysts, sapphires, the temples. The head is more dressed for i aqua marina, and agate, have taken place of walking than for some months past ; it is true gems of more ardent and refulgent appearthe long veil and parasol conceal i, and for ance ; large oval pieces of fine Macoa, or Egypthis last essential summer article, those in the tian pebbles, set at short distances, and reChinese form, of green, with rich brocaded lieved by spaces of gold chaio, fo:m a cosily edges in white are must admired.
and elegant article for the neck. Eye-glasses The gowns are made much the same as last also, set round with pearl, are a very fashion. monih, consisting chiefly of French cambrics able ornament, or ludia muslins for half.dress; ard coloured The village basket has now taken place of muslins, crapes, Opera nets, gossamer satins, the rilicule, which, with the cottage bonnet, and French sarsnets, for evening parties ; placed very backward, with flowers underwhite is, however, very general for both do neath, on each side the forehead, give to many mesiic and out.door costume. At all dinner of our ladies of very high rank, the appear. and dress parties, a shawl kivd of drapery is ance of blooming and beautiful cottagers. at present indispensible ; consisting of slight
Stays are now very much thrown aside; and shawis of black or white lace; some fancifully the exquisite contour of a fiue Grecian form is worked in colours, others of fine patent or now no longer, by being steel.cład, disguised French net, faliing carelesly from the shoulders, in such impenetrable and hideous armour: a and many wear a small white lace mantle, and
young lady of the most exalted rank, it is said, fasten it on each shoulder with a pearl brooch, first set this laudable example, and appears and this kind of drapery hanging from the always the original of that excellent likeness back of the shoulders is of peculiar advantage with which the Royal Academy is this year to a short figure, and looks graceful on any honoured. After this intelligence it is needone. The trimmings of gowns cre chiefly less to acquaint our fair readers that the composed of light gossamer fringe, or chain
waists are considerably sborter than they were gymp of various colours intermingled, some
some months ago. thing in the style of the old French trimming;
For walking, half-boots of rankeen, pale for very full dress they are of silver.
blue jean er grey kid, fringed round the top, The dressing and disposing the hair yet || and laced behind, are much in favour, and for maintains its favour and preference in the
familiar visits, the Grecian sandal of black or style adopted by King Charles's beauties, and
very dark silk or satin, laced and bound with seems peculiarly suited to the English counte
a very opposite light colour, has lately been Flowers in balf-dress, and lcrons and
much adopted, while, for full dress, the elegant ostrich feathers in full dress, are now uni
Italian slipper, either of white satin, fringed versally adopted. Shading off a colour seems
with gold or silver; pale blue satin without also very prevalent; and to those eyes which are
fringe, and lilac, with white bugle roses, seems accustomed to paint or embroider, it is very
to retain an unrivalled pre-em neoce. gratifying, and certainly very becoming when The favourite colours are blue, lilac, jon. on a head dress; for instance, a lady wears on
quil, Pomona, and pale willow green. her heard a net of bright grass-green, with
THE MIRROR OF FASHION. Garrick. We lost the habit of the actor, and In a series of Letters from a Gentleman of rank
even the actor bimself, in the personification and taste, to a Lady of Quality.
of the character; and nonght was present to
us but Macbeth, Hamlet, or Lear. Great as LETTER XII.
Mr. Kemble is, yet it is not the greatless of After having so long entertained your nature; it is not the sublime mountain we Ladyship with the graces and excesses of look upon, but a fabric reared by art; a struc. fashion exbibited by our ancestors of the four ture like the pyramids of Egypt. teenth century, I shall not, in this letter, de. In the reigns of Edward ibe Fourth and his tain you' long on the coiffures and mantles of immediate successor, a heavier embroidery and the succeeding era. This epistle is only meant brocade was assumed than ibat adopted by as a kind of vestibule to the palace which is tbe ladies in the preceding century. The to present you to the wardrobes of the bright' under garment swelled out gradually from the Elizabeth Woodville, and the bewitching Jane bottom of the waist to the lowest bem of the Shere, when they arrayed their forms for petticoat, in the form of a bell. It was usually royal conquest.
stiffened with buckram or whalebone; and In those days of gallantry, in love and arms, over it was spread the velvet, silk, or satin the dress of the men bespoke them the ser. coat of many colours. This coat' displayed vitors of both sovereigns. Their habits were a the chief grandeur of the dress. It was often mixiure of martiai with peaceful: they wore composed of cloth of gold, curiously wrought the warlike batergeon, but it was rendered in silks and jewellery, and from it bebind degay by golden rings, and curious cyphers of volved the Avatiug length of train, fringed and ladies' names; and the embroidered scarf bordered with netting work and splendid clasping the glittering sword, the splendour, tassels. The front of the superb petticoat more than the use of the weapon, was ap was often clasped with precious stones, even pareut. The steeled helmet gave place to ihe from the girdle to the toe. There the little ermined honnet; and where the frowning crest fcot, surmounted on a huge high heel, preheretofore overhung the soldier's brows, a sented itself, cased in embroidery, and sparkplume of ostrich or of heron, nodded over the ling like a pretty star beneath its cloud of hero's amorous eyes.
garments. The lovely wearer's head was Perhaps I shouie give you a tolerably just
adorned with a coiffure of pearls, coveriog the idea of the garb in which the royal Edward whole tete, so as to entirely exclude the least went a wooing, by saying that it was not much appearance of hair; and the pearls of the cap unlike the costume in which our stage gene coming forward, and round the pretty rally dresses its Pages of quality. The stage, face, even to the tip of the chiu, the body's as it is now ordered, under the tasbion-learned visage had the effect of a picture set in pearls. eye of Mr. Kemble, is a kind of visible history Over all that, matrons generally wore a proof the fashions, not only of this country, but digious ample and long veil, usually of cyprusof the sister kingdoms. Before bis, time, our gause, sometimes plain, and of one colour, dramatic Hearies and Edwards appeared in and at other times wrought with gold. It bag.wigs, swords, and full-bottomed coats. i stoud over the head, stiffened a little with Macbeth addressed his warlike Scuts, in the wire, and then beivg clasped under the chin dress of a macaroni. Cało, in the costume of with a costly brocch, devolved down the St. James's, harangued the senate of Rome: shoulders, and over the figure, like a light and Coriolanus, in a suit of velvet and blue mis: playing round the whole form, shading, satin, marched at the head of an army of but not obscuring it. barbarians to attack his native and ungrateful Io my next I will give you the detail of city! Admirable must bave been the acting Anne Bullen's wedding robes, and meanwhile wbich could have put to silence the ridiculous shall subscribe myself my Vrapia's faithful ideas of such absurd association; and admirable
PARIS. it was. Nature spoke in the voice and action of
INSTALLATION THE EXHIBITION OF THE ROYAL ACA
or TAE KNIGHTS COMPANIONS OF THE MOST
HONOURABLE ORDER OF THE BATH. DEMY.—Amongst the Portraits, the most distinguished and meritorious, for all the combi The Knights Elect, ressed in their surcoats, nations of excellence of which Portrait paint. || mantles, and spurs, assembled in the Prince's ing is capable, is that of the Lord Chancellor, 11 Charber, in the House of Lords, each attended by Owen. The likeness is admirable; the | by three Esquires, at tep v'clock iu i be forecharacter of the man is finely expressed; he is
noon of Monday, June 1, where they were met sbewn in the digzity which belongs both to by the Knights Companions at ba'f.past ten, kis situation and his talents. It is the excel
and likewise the Dean and Prebendaries in lence of a portrait painter to unite, with the
their respective Mantles of the Order. Thence resemblance of the man, those external irails
i bey proceeded to Wesimioster Abbey, and of characıer which are always stampt on every entering at the south-east door, passed doxn human face, and which serve to distinguish ap
the South aisle; then turning through the last iodividual from his flow mortals. Owen has
arch next the great West door, they crossed much of this merit; be unites fidelity, nature,
the middle aisle, and so proceeded up the North and character, with au execution as forcible as
side aisle to the great Transept of the Abbey, ever portrait painter possessed; he is, in short,
and from therce to King Henry the Vilth's the decided head of his art.
Chapel, in the following order :
Six men iu scarfs, uncovered, preceding the procession. Lawrence's Portraits are very good; but we
Drums of his Majesty's Household. have seen him to more advantage. His Cato
The Drum Major.
Kettle druns and trumpets. is a good likeness of Kemble, but a wretched
The Serjeapt Trumpeter with his mace.. character of itself. It is wi:hout any thing of Twelve men of ihe Church of Westminster, two and two
in their gowns, with the B.dges of the Order. grandeur or elegance; there is nothing extra
The Messenger of the Order in his surcoat. viam; it is level m:diocrity.
The Esquires of the Knights Elect three, their caps in
their hands. What Beechey has, is very good: his head
The Esquires of the Knights Coinpanions, their caps in of the Duke of York, and that of Nollekins,
their hands. are very fine. Dawes has a good portrait of
Prebendaries of the Church of Westminster, two and two.
The Sub Dean, carrying the Bible in his right hand. Mrs. Hope: these are all we remember. Upon Officers of Arms accordiug to the r rank, in their tabards; the whole, the Exhibition is creditable to the
Pursuivants, British :chool; but there is one picture which
Heralds, deserves a distinct mention; we mean the
Knights Elect, two and two, carrying their hats aud Country Auction, by Bird. This artist, as our
feathers in their hands.* readers well know, is of the school of Wilkie, The Knights Companions, in the full habit of the Order, who, himself, is of the school of Tesiers, though
two and iwo, with their hats and feathers in their hands,
Gentlemen Usher-Register-Secretary. he far excells his original in the imagination
Bath King of Arms--Garter-Genealogist. and moral effect of his pictures. With respect The Deau of Westminster, Dean of the Order, carrying in to his Country Auction, the whole groupe is
his right hand the form of the Oath of Admonition.
His Royal Highness the Duke of York. First and princisingularly characteristic and expressive; the pal Knight Companion, as Great Master, covered.
Twelve Yeomen of the Guards closed the Procession. parties are well selected, and the scenery is uncommonly well adapted to the occasion;
The drums, kettle-drums, and truppels, upon the whole, it is a work which does him when they came to the gate of tbe Chapel, infinite credit, and mainiains him in the post
divided to the right and left, and formed a paswhicb be has gained.-Wilkie has some
• The Proxies walked in the places of their respective sketches in the present Exhibition, but we Knights, wearing the surcoat and git with the sword of shall examine bis pictures on another occa
the Order : they carried the mantle on their right arm
They bad no spurs, nor the bat and feather, but walked sion.
with a hat in their hands.
sage on the outside of the Chape!. The Alms to Bath ; the organ and other instruments acMen then entered the Chapel, and made a joint companied this part of the reremony with reverence to the Altar, and, turning about, solemo music, viz. The Dead March in Saul. made a joint reverence to the Sovereign's Stail; The banners of all the dtceased Korglits were then turned and passed six on each side of offered in the like manner by the two junior King Henry the VIlth's Tómb, and retired in'o Knights Companions, the music accompanied the recesses of the windows beyond it. The throughout, which being done, they ascended Messenger then entered the Chapel, made the into their Stalls, making he usual reverences, like reverences, and stood at the lower end of and sat down covered. Then Bath bowed to the livights' Stalls. When all the Esquires the Knights Elect in their order, seni ss first, had entered the Chapel, they jointly made the who thereupon (each with his Complain) like reverences, and placed themselves hefore came forward to the middle of the Choir, and, their proper seats. The Officers of Arms made || making the usual reverences together, ascended the like reverences together, and placed them. to their Stalls, and słood therei", holding: selves before their forms uuder the Prince's their hats and feathers in their hands. Then Stall.-[Here the band of music began to Bath laid the Book of the Statutrs and the play.]—The Proxies and the Knights Elect, || G.cat Collar of the Ord r on a cushisu, baving ou entering the Chapel, made their double ou bis left hand the Usber; and, being fuilowreverences together, and stood on the area, ed by the Dean of Westminster, he proceeded under their respective tanners. The Knights to the middle of the Choir, where they all Companions, ou entering the Chapel, made made reverences together. Then bis Royal the like double reverences, and stood under Highness the Duke of York, as Great Master, their respective banners. Then began the descended from his Stall with the usual reves Antbem composed for the occasion.-The reuces, and being attende: by the Dean, proAnthem being ended, Balh King of Arms ceeded to the Stall of the senior Kuight Elect; made his double reverences tu his Royal High on which Bath presented the Bjok of ibe Staness the Duke of York, who thereupon ascend tutes of the Order to the Great Master, who ed into his Stall, and sat dowu covered. Bath || delivered it to the Knight Eleci, and the Dean the bowed to the two next Knights Compa. administered the oath to bim, Bith holding nions, who in the same manner made their the book; then the Coliar was delivered to the double reverences, ascended into their Stalls, Great Master, who invested ihe Knigbes there. repeated their reverences, and sat down covered with; and, lastly, the Great Masier put the In the same manner all the other Knights || hat and feathers on the bead of the Knight Companions tock their Stalls, except the two Elect, and placed bim in his skat, who therejunior Knights, who remained under their upon rising up, made his double reverences; banners to offer the achievements of the de Then the Great Master, having given bim the ceased Knights. The Knights wbo were to accolade returned with Bulb, the U-her, and be installed likewise continued on the area, the Dean, to the middle of the Choir, and the under their banners. Then the two Provincial || Knight sat down. The Great Master :hen Kings of Arms, made the usual reverences, proceeded in the same form to install the repaired to Bath, who took up the banner ober knights. The Proxies were inst lied in of the late Lord Living on and that of the the like manner, except investing with the Col. Earl of Macartuey, the two senjor deceased || 1.1, and putting on the hat and feathers All Knights, and bowed to the two junior Knights thie Koights being installed, the Great Maser Companions, who came forward, made their
returned to his siall, where, making his reve. double reverences, received the banners from rences, be sat down, the Deau was conducted Baib, and, being preceded by the two Provin.. to the Altar by the Usher, the Sanctus bring cial Kings of Arms, carried them with the sung at the same time; the Officers returned points forward to the altar, where with one to their seats, and Divine Service began with reverence they delivered them to the Preben Te Deum, composed by Dr. Purcell, and perdaries, and then, with like reverences, returned formed by the Orgaoist and Chuir of West
minster, daring which the Knights p'ased their back to the Prince's Chainber in the same hats and feathers on the cushions before them. order it came from thence, except that the Divine Service being ended, the Knights putPrebendaries kad reiired to the Je usalem on their bats and feathers, the Proxies remain. | Chamber from the Abbey door, and tbe Esing uncovered, and Bath summoned ibem, as quires and Oficer of Arms, and Otheers of before, under their banners; and the Compa- | the Order, when they came out of the Church, nions and Proxies installed, attended by Bath were allowed to be covered. Withia the door and an Officer of Arms, to be conduc!ed se of the Abbey the King's Master Cook made verally, or with their Companions, to the Altar, | the admonition to each Companion, and at the as at the first offering, where each Knigbt door of the Prince's Chamber a person was apstavdiog, and drawing his sword, offered it to pointed by Bath King of Arms to receive the the Dean, who received it, and laid it on the mantles from the Proxies. The following are Altar. The Knight then redeemed it of the tbe words of the admonition of tbe King's Dean, who restored it with the proper admo- Couk, which he addressed to each of the nitions. The Knights and Proxies being all || Knights of the Bath at the Installation :-“Sir severally reconducted to the places under their Knight, the great oath that you have taken, if respective banners, and Handel's Coronation
you keep, will be great bonour to you: but, if Anthem, God save the King, being sung, the you break it, I have power, by virtue of my ceremony concluded. A procession was made" office, to back the spurs from off your heels."