finement of a ribband, and is called the Mantilla Infantado; the bat generally worn with this is of simple white satin, en toque, covered with a nun's veil. The Installation headdress is also sometimes worn under a long veil, consisting of the hair elegantly dressed, and when the veil is thrown on one side, on the other is discovered a bandeau or clusters of jewels, or short strings of pearls falling over the temples. The head is more dressed for walking than for some months past; it is true the long veil and parasol conceal it, and for this last essential summer article, those in the Chinese form, of green, with rich brocaded edges in white are most admired.

light aqua marina, and next her face confines the bright coloured net by a bandeau of dark emeralds, or a Ceylon ruby-coloured net, spotted with pink, and confined by a bandeau of the very best dark Oriental rubies; and to ladies who have not very fine hair, these Lets with bandeaux form both a simple and elegant head-dress.

In jewellery, pearls, amethysts, sapphires, aqua marina, and agate, have taken place of gems of more ardent and refulgent appearance; large oval pieces of fine Macoa, or Egyptian pebbles, set at short distances, and relieved by spaces of gold chain, form a costly and elegant article for the neck. Eye-glasses also, set round with pearl, are a very fashionable ornament.

The village basket has now taken place of the ridicule, which, with the cottage bonnel, placed very backward, with flowers under

of our ladies of very high rank, the appearance of blooming and beautiful cottagers.

The gowns are made much the same as last month, consisting chiefly of French cambrics or India muslins for half-dress; and coloured muslins, crapes, Opera nets, gossamer satins, and French sarsnets, for evening parties; white is, however, very general for both do-neath, on each side the forehead, give to many mestic and out-door costume. At all dinner and dress parties, a shawl kind of drapery is at present indispensible; consisting of slight Stays are now very much thrown aside; and shawls of black or white lace; some fancifully the exquisite contour of a fine Grecian form is worked in colours, others of fine patent or now no longer, by being steel-clad, disguised French net, falling carelesly from the shoulders, in such impenetrable and hideous armour: a and many wear a small white lace mantle, and young lady of the most exalted rank, it is said, fasten it on each shoulder with a pearl brooch, first set this laudable example, and appears and this kind of drapery hanging from the always the original of that excellent likeness back of the shoulders is of peculiar advantage || with which the Royal Academy is this year to a short figure, and looks graceful on any honoured. After this intelligence it is needone. The trimmings of gowns are chiefly less to acquaint our fair readers that the composed of light gossamer fringe, or chain waists are considerably shorter than they were gymp of various colours intermingled, somesome months ago. thing in the style of the old French trimming; for very full dress they are of silver.

The dressing and disposing the hair yet maintains its favour and preference in the style adopted by King Charles's beauties, and seems peculiarly suited to the English counte nance. Flowers in balf-dress, and herons and ostrich feathers in full dress, are now universally adopted. Shading off a colour seems also very prevalent; and to those eyes which are accustomed to paint or embroider, it is very gratifying, and certainly very becoming when on a head dress; for instance, a lady wears on her head a net of bright grass-green, with

For walking, half-boots of nankeen, pale blue jean or grey kid, fringed round the top, and laced behind, are much in favour, and for familiar visits, the Grecian sandal of black or very dark silk or satin, laced and bound with a very opposite light colour, has lately been much adopted, while, for full dress, the elegant Italian slipper, either of white satin, fringed with gold or silver; pale blue satin without fringe, and lilac, with white bugle roses, seems to retain an unrivalled pre-eminence.

The favourite colours are blue, lilac, jonquil, Pomona, and pale willow green.

THE MIRROR OF FASHION. In a series of Letters from a Gentleman of rank and taste, to a Lady of Quality.

LETTER XII.

AFTER having so long entertained your Ladyship with the graces and excesses of fashion exhibited by our ancestors of the fourteenth century, I shall not, in this letter, de. tain you long on the coiffures and mantles of the succeeding era. This epistle is only meant as a kind of vestibule to the palace which is to present you to the wardrobes of the bright Elizabeth Woodville, and the bewitching Jane Shere, when they arrayed their forms for royal conquest.

In those days of gallantry, in love and arms, the dress of the men bespoke them the servitors of both sovereigns. Their habits were a mixture of martial with peaceful: they wore the warlike habergeon, but it was rendered gay by golden rings, and curious cyphers of ladies' names; and the embroidered scarf clasping the glittering sword, the splendour, more than the use of the weapon, was apparent. The steeled helmet gave place to the ermined bonnet; and where the frowning crest heretofore overhung the soldier's brows, a plume of ostrich or of heron, nedded over the hero's amorous eyes.

Perhaps I should give you a tolerably just idea of the garb in which the royal Edward went a wooing, by saying that it was not much unlike the costume in which our stage generally dresses its Pages of quality. The stage, as it is now ordered, under the fashion-learned eye of Mr. Kemble, is a kind of visible history of the fashions, not only of this country, but of the sister kingdoms. Before his time, our dramatic Hearies and Edwards appeared in bag-wigs, swords, and full-bottomed coats. Macbeth addressed his warlike Scots, in the dress of a macaroni. Cato, in the costume of St. James's, harangued the senate of Rome: and Coriolanus, in a suit of velvet and blue satin, marched at the head of an army of barbarians to attack his native and ungrateful city! Admirable must have been the acting which could have put to silence the ridiculous ideas of such absurd association; and admirable it was. Nature spoke in the voice and action of

Garrick. We lost the habit of the actor, and even the actor himself, in the personification of the character; and nought was present to us but Macbeth, Hamlet, or Lear. Great as Mr. Kemble is, yet it is not the greatness of nature; it is not the sublime mountain we look upon, but a fabric reared by art; a struc. ture like the pyramids of Egypt.

In the reigns of Edward the Fourth and his immediate successor, a heavier embroidery and brocade was assumed then that adopted by the ladies in the preceding century. The under garment swelled cut gradually from the bottom of the waist to the lowest hem of the petticoat, in the form of a bell. It was usually stiffened with buckram or whalebone; ard over it was spread the velvet, silk, or satin coat of many colours. This coat displayed the chief grandeur of the dress. It was often composed of cloth of gold, curiously wrought in silks and jewellery, and from it behind devolved the floating length of train, fringed and bordered with netting work and splendid tassels. The front of the superb petticoat was often clasped with precious stones, even from the girdle to the toe. There the little foot, surmounted on a huge high heel, presented itself, cased in embroidery, and sparkling like a pretty star beneath its cloud of garments. The lovely wearer's head was adorned with a coiffure of pearls, covering the whole tete, so as to entirely exclude the least appearance of hair; and the pearls of the cap coming quite forward, and round the pretty face, even to the tip of the chin, the body's visage had the effect of a picture set in pearls. Over all that, matrons generally wore a predigious ample and long veil, usually of cyprusgause, sometimes plain, and of one colour, and at other times wrought with gold. It stood over the head, stiffened a little with wire, and then being clasped under the chin with a costly brooch, devolved down the shoulders, and over the figure, like a light mist playing round the whole form, shading, but not obscuring it.

In my next I will give you the detail of Anne Bullen's wedding robes, and meanwhile shall subscribe myself my Urania's faithful

PARIS.

MONTHLY MISCELLANY,

INCLUDING VARIETIES, CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

FINE ARTS.

THE EXHIBITION OF THE ROYAL ACADEMY.-Amongst the Portraits, the most distinguished and meritorious, for all the combi

the

INSTALLATION

OF THE KNIGHTS COMPANIONS OF THE MOST
HONOURABLE ORDER OF THE BATH.

The Knights Elect, dressed in their surcoats,

nations of excellence of which Portrait paint-mantles, and spurs, assembled in the Prince's ing is capable, is that of the Lord Chancellor, by Owen. The likeness is admirable; character of the man is finely expressed; he is shewn in the digaity which belongs both to kis situation and his talents. It is the excellence of a portrait painter to unite, with the resemblance of the man, those external traits of character which are always stampt on every human face, and which serve to distinguish ap individual from his flow mortals. Owen has much of this merit; he unites fidelity, nature, and character, with an execution as forcible as ever portrait painter possessed; he is, in short, the decided head of his art.

Lawrence's Portraits are very good; but we have seen him to more advantage. His Cato is a good likeness of Kemble, but a wretched character of itself. It is without any thing of grandeur or elegance; there is nothing extra viam; it is level mediocrity.

What Beechey has, is very good: his head of the Duke of York, and that of Nollekins, are very fine. Dawes has a good portrait of Mrs. Hope: these are all we remember. Upon the whole, the Exhibition is creditable to the British school; but there is one picture which deserves a distinct mention; we mean the Country Auction, by Bird. This artist, as our readers well know, is of the school of Wilkie, who, himself, is of the school of Texiers, though he far excells his original in the imagination and moral effect of his pictures. With respect to his Country Auction, the whole groupe is singularly characteristic and expressive; the parties are well selected, and the scenery is uncommonly well adapted to the occasion; upon the whole, it is a work which does him infinite credit, and maintains him in the post which he has gained-Wilkie has some sketches in the present Exhibition, but we shall examine his pictures on another occasion.

Chamber, in the House of Lords, each attended
by three Esquires, at tep o'clock in the fore-
noon of Monday, June 1, where they were met
by the Knights Companions at ba'f-past ten,
and likewise the Dean and Prebendaries in
their respective Mantles of the Order. Thence
they proceeded to Westminster Abbey, and
entering at the south-east door, passed down
the South aisle; then turning through the last
arch next the great West door, they crossed
the middle aisle, and so proceeded up the North
side aisle to the great Transept of the Abbey,
and from thence to King Henry the VIIth's
Chapel, in the following order :-

Six men in scarfs, uncovered, preceding the procession.
Drums of his Majesty's Household.
The Dram Major.

Kettle drums and trumpets.

The Serjeant Trumpeter with his mace. Twelve men of the Church of Westminster, two and two in their gowns, with the Bdges of the Order. The Messenger of the Order in his surcoat. The Esquires of the Knights Elect three, their caps in their hands.

The Esquires of the Knights Companions, their caps in
their hands.

Prebendaries of the Church of Westminster, two and two.
The Sub Dean, carrying the Bible in his right hand,
Officers of Arms according to their rank, in their tabards;

viz.

Pursuivants,
Heralds,

Provincial Kings.

Knights Elect, two and two, carrying their hats aud
feathers in their hands."

The Knights Companions, in the full habit of the Order,
two and two, with their hats and feathers in their hands,
Gentlemen Usher-Register-Secretary.
Bath King of Arms-Garter-Genealogist.
The Deau of Westminster, Dean of the Order, carrying in
his right hand the form of the Oath of Admonition.
His Royal Highness the Duke of York, First and princi.
pal Knight Companion, as Great Master, covered.
Twelve Yeomen of the Guards closed the Procession.
The drums, kettle-drums, and trumpets,
when they came to the gate of the Chapel,
divided to the right and left, and formed a pas-

The Proxies walked in the places of their respective Knights, wearing the surcoat and gat with the sword of the Order: they carried the mantle on their right arm They had no spurs, nor the hat and feather, but walked with a hat in their hands.

sage on the outside of the Chapel. The Alms Men then entered the Chapel, and made a joint reverence to the Altar, and, turning about, made a joint reverence to the Sovereign's Stall; then turned and passed six on each side of King Henry the VIIth's Tómb, and retired into the recesses of the windows beyond it. The Messenger then entered the Chapel, made the like reverences, and stood at the lower end of the Knights' Stalls. When all the Esquires had entered the Chapel, they jointly made the like reverences, and placed themselves hefore their proper seats. The Officers of Arms made the like reverences together, and placed them. selves before their forms under the Prince's Stall. [Here the band of music began to play. The Proxies and the Knights Elect, on entering the Chapel, made their double reverences together, and stood on the area, under their respective kanners. The Knights Companions, on entering the Chapel, made the like double reverences, and stood under their respective banners. Then began the Anthem composed for the occasion.-The Anthem being ended, Bath King of Arms made his double reverences to his Royal Highness the Duke of York, who thereupon ascended into his Stall, and sat down covered. Bath thea bowed to the two next Knights Companions, who in the same manner made their double reverences, ascended into their Stalls, repeated their reverences, and sat down covered In the same manner all the other Knights Companions tock their Stalls, except the two junior Knights, who remained under their banners to offer the achievements of the deceased Knights. The Knights who were to be installed likewise continued on the area, under their banners. Then the two Provincial Kings of Arms, made the usual reverences, repaired to Bath, who took up the banner of the late Lord Living on and that of the Earl of Macartuey, the two senior deceased Knights, and bowed to the two junior Knights Companions, who came forward, made their double reverences, received the banners from Bath, and, being preceded by the two Provin cial Kings of Arms, carried them with the points forward to the altar, where with one reverence they delivered them to the Prebendaries, and then, with like reverences, returned

to Bath; the organ and other instruments accompanied this part of the ceremony with solemn music, viz. The Dead March in Saul. The banners of all the deceased Knights were offered in the like manner by the two junior Knights Companions, the music accompanied throughout, which being done, they ascended into their Stalls, making the usual reverences, and sat down covered. Then Bath bowed to the Knights Elect in their order, seniors first, who thereupon (each with his Companion) came forward to the middle of the Choir, and, making the usual reverences together, ascended to their Stalls, and stood therein, holding. their hats and feathers in their hauds. Then Bath laid the Book of the Statutes and the G.eat Collar of the Order on a cushion, having on his left hand the Usher; and, being followed by the Dean of Westminster, he proceeded to the middle of the Choir, where they all made reverences together. Then his Royal Highness the Duke of York, as Great Master, descended from his Stall with the usual reve> reuces, and being attende by the Dean, proceeded to the Stall of the senior Kuight Elect; on which Bath presented the Book of the Statutes of the Order to the Great Master, who delivered it to the Knight Elect, and the Dean administered the oath to him, Bath holding the book; then the Collar was delivered to the Great Master, who invested the Knights there. with; and, lastly, the Great Master put the hat and feathers on the head of the Knight Elect, and placed him in his seat, who thereupon rising up, made his double reverences; then the Great Master, having given him the accolade returned with Bath, the U-her, and the Dean, to the middle of the Choir, and the Knight sat down. The Great Master then proceeded in the same form to install the other Knights. The Proxies were inst lied in the like manner, except investing with the ColLr, and putting on the hat and feathers All the Knights being installed, the Great Master returned to his stall, where, making his reverences, he sat down, the Deau was conducted to the Altar by the Usher, the Sanctus being sung at the same time; the Officers returned to their seats, and Divine Service began with Te Deum, composed by Dr. Purcell, and performed by the Organist and Choir of West