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In jewellery we have remarked little new, i curiosity with ihe birth, parentage, and educa. except opals ; they are suited to very few tion of the various materials for apparel wbich complexious, and are, at best, rather a heavy rose and Aourished from the close of the looking article.
twelfth to the commencement of the four. Circular fans are now quite exploded from teenth century. This geneology of our arts, the fair hands of our elegantes ; small ones of manufactures, and commerce, ought not to the customary form, of fine ivory, elegantly be more interesting to the mind of a lady at painted in the middle with figures or inge- her toilette, than to that of the statesman nipus devices, and the agraffe or rivet made of scated profoundly in the cabinet of his counone single diainond, are now the most ap- try. proved in this requisite finish to full dress. Silk, though used by the Saxon monarchs,
Italian slippers of auber satin, sea green, was brought into general use in England by pearl colour, and white kid, are chiefly worn; " the Normalis. The stuffs made of this costly while, for the morning, half and quarter boots material were of different kinds, and accordof various colours, Morocco or kid, and the iogly distinguished by different appellations, half boots lined with fur, are universally some of which were derived from the countries adopted.
where the various manufactures received their
origin. For instance, sarcenet was so called The prevailing colours are amber, ruby, |
from the Latin Saracenus, or the work of the geranium, amaranth, sea-green, piok, and hermit-brown.
Saracens. The same resemblance to ibe pri.
mitive name occurs in France, where they call The curtains of a room are generally of a
it Sarasinois. Chaucer speaks of this light very rich silk, in full and numerous folds, or plaits; and 'eing double, so that both sides
silken fabric by the name of cloth of Tars, be. should be slike, they take a prodigious quam.
cause it was brought from Tartary into Europe.
Our ancestors also write of cloth of Perse, and tity for a large apartment, where there are several windows : the cornices are according to
cloth of Inde, both of which signify cloth of the Greek or Roman style, with suitable orna
light blue or sky colour; but this they confin. ments; a rich fiinged drapery of the most
ed not to silk, they rather meant by it any. elegant kind, falls over the top of these ex
beautiful slight fabric of those orient colours. pensive curtains, the screws are of the medal
Silk is the parent stock of a number of prelion klud, representiug subjects from the an
cious materials which I shall describe herecients. The presses and commodes in a lady's
after ; and, in some cases, as in buman pedi. wardrobe, should now be of cassia, lined with
igrees, you will find the offspring even fairer.
than the lovely mother. cedar, while the mirror of Psyche, which shews the form at full length, is now ornamented
Ceudal, or sandal, was a rich silken manuwith the most fastasiic and various devices,
facture of great price; it was geuerally used and is an indispensible article in the dressing
for the living of state-garments; probably in
summer, as it was understood to supply the room of the fair votary of fashion.
place of sables, ermine, and other fors. The
old rowance of The Rose, tells us that its co. THE MIRROR OF FASHION.
lour varied according to the taste of the pur.
chaser, being red, white, yellow, or green. In a series of Letters from a Gentleman of rank
The cloth of Tars, called in Latin Tartarinus, and taste, to a Lady of Quality.
and in French Tarsien, was a species of silken stuff that was sometimes mixed with gold.
Duigdale represents it as baving been of the LETTER VII.
colour of blood, but Du Cange speaks of it BEFORE I proceed farther, my dear Coun
" as a gayly figured material, sometimes of a tess, in the details of the wardrobes of our fair blue, juierwoven with devices. We find Anglo-Norman ancestors, I will indulge your it in England in the thirteenth century, ge
nérally wrought into the vestments of the Diaper, or dyaprez, as it was called accordpriests, who called it Tarsicus.
ing to the French etymology, and diasprus in Taffata was a transparent silk, worn by the Latin, was a figured cloth composed of a Jadies alone, and usually lined their external variety of rich materials, such as fine linen garments, which were composed of more sub. threads, silk, and threads of gold. It was stantial stuff. The sarcenet was also put to | often worn by officers in the army over their the same use.
coats of mail, at which time it was usually Satin, which is one of the thickest manu. || embroidered with their respective armorial factures of silk, was of such high price in bearings. The stuff denominated damacius by the thirteenth century, that few beneath the the Latios, damas by the French, and damask rank of princes ventured to become its pur- | with us (from Damascus the city in wbich it chaser. Velvet (whicb Mathew Paris calls was first manufactured), differed very little villosa, villosus) is the most substantial stuff from this ancient diaper; and both were so into wbich silk can be woven ; and, like satin, costly, tha in the 14th century four pounds the highest nobility alone presumed to wear it three shillings were given for an ell of either in their dresses. We find mantles of velvet stuff. and fur so greatly valued in these ancient days Baudkins, or baldekinus as it is called in that when an Earl or Countess died, he or she Latin, was the most preci us fabric that any made them particular bequests in their last country ever produced. It was composed of wills and testaments. Now, on the demise of thickly interwoven threads of gold with the one of our modern Dowagers, we have her richest silk, and so jolerwoven, that eveu muffs, tippets, fur pelisses, silks, satins, and jewels might be mingled in ils texture. velvel rubes, all made the spoil of waiting. It derives its name from Baldack, the mo. maids, chamber-maids, and old Jews! I must | dern appellation of Babylon, froin whose confess that I am ancient Briton enough to l ingenious artists it received its birtb.declare that I think old England was a much ) Henry Ull, it appears, was the first of our more respectable place when her Lords and monarcbs who adopted this superb vesture. Ladies alone wore silks and sables, and the
Cyclas was another sumptuous manufacture ruddy daughters of our geomanry contented
which travelled to us from the east. It derives themselves with linsey.woolsey, lined at best
lits title from the knot of islands in the Egeon with rabbit skin. But not to digress.
sea, which are called Cyclades, where it was Samit, or as some French authors term it,
first wrought. Its materia s must have been samy, was a peculiarly splendid stuff. It was
.very magnificent as we are told by writers that frequently woven with gold or silver, and
it was purple and gold. A coronation-robe of often embroidered with most costly workman this truly regal tissue was worn by the beautiship. We bave a pretty account of its uses in
ful Princess Judith of Bohemia. the description of the masque in the romance I Now whether the vestment of the renowned of The Rose. Mirth, he tells us, was habited Cinderella of fairy-tale memory, were in imi. “in a vest of samnit, bedecked with figures of tation of that of the peerless Judith, maile of birds, and embellished with burnished gold; ll cycias, or of baudkins, I am not conjuror bis garland was made of samit, ornamented enough to reveal to your Ladysbip. But as with roses.” Gladness, in the same delectable we are told, that sweet maid did not completely old poem, comes forth in “a robe of samil charm away : he heart of her pr.uce till she ap. covered wiib gold.” The prevailing colour of peared in this garment of highly wrought gold, this costly stuff was red; but in the old French
l I am inclined to coureive tbat the narrator bistorians we read of robes de samit noir. The l of the story bad a moral concealed beneath author of the Chronicle of St. Denis assures ll this love-creating robe, which has yet to be us that the celebrated Oriflame, or cousecrated revealed !--I will piay live oracle, and lifting standard of France, was made of red samit, ll the mysterious veil, unfold to your listening adorned with tufts of green silk.
| sex, my fair Urania, that the highly wrought
golden vesture of the beauteous Cioderella, .“ whose price is above rubies ;" and the lovely, was nothing more nor less than the highly modest, all accomplislied Cinderella, became wrought texture of a perfect female character. | the partner of his throue. Her sister's gaudy trappings, namely their This sweet little fairy queen bas hurried me deceits and affectations, had no power over the so far in her enchanted chariot, from the looms discerning eye of the royal lover. But the l) of our industrious ancestors, that at present, I golden robe of integrity and truth which adorned | can say no more than avow myself, whether in Cinderella, and the glass-slipper of sincerity | Fairy-land or in England, ever your charmed which supported her steps, had tbeir due effect
PARIS. on a man who sought for a virtuous woman,
|| must always be considered as a master-piece COVENT-GARDEN.
of art and judgment. If any thing were MASSINGER'S NEW WAY TO PAY OLD wanted, it was a little more simplicity, and DEBTg.-On Friday, Jan. 17, Mr. Kemble less of that subtle distinction, and elaborate recame forward in the character of Sir Giles finement, which are addressed more to the Overreach, in Massinger's play of A New Way I critic Iban to the people. to Pay Old Debts. The comedy itself is a rude effort of genius, not much refined, nor at all conversaut with the delicacies and finish of
WORKS IN THE PRESS. character. It is a kind of wedge, or ingot,
The Rev. Owen Manning, late Vicar of God. wrought out of the mine by a heavy and toil.
alming, has left for publication some Sermons some operation; the ore is shewn in its native on various important subjects, which will strength, but is at the same time unsifted and l shortly appear in two octavo volumes. unpolished. It is usual to compliment Mas.
Mr. Jobo Mawe, author of a Treatise on the singer by calling him a natural writer. He does Mineralogy of Derbyshire, will shortly publish not, we think, iu an eminent degree, deserve
a Narrative of his Voyage to the Rio de la this praise. He is not, indeed, like our mo.
Plata, and of bis Travels in Brazil, from 1804 dern authors, fantastic and grotesque ; but
to 1910. The principal part of this Work then, on the contrary, he seldom abounds with relates to the interior of Brazil, where no Eng. those characteristics of simplicity and truth lishman was ever before permitted to travel, which constitute an observer of nature. He is
and particularly to the gold and diamond disa kind of pure model of that violent and over
tricts, which ble investigated by order of the charged passion which the German writers
Prince Regent of Portugal. have swelled into an unnatural excess and Il
Mr. John Galt has in the Press Voyages disgusting extravagance. Massinger is not and Travels in 1109-10-11; containing Obserat all comic; he is pleasant in the closet, ll vations on Gibraftar, Sar
vations on Gibraltar, Sardinia, &c, in a quarto but is deservedly grown out of fashion on the li volume, with three engravings. stage.
Dr. John Barclay will shortly publish a Nr. Kemble's Sir Giles Overreach had the Description of the Arteries, in an octavo vomerit of being an original unborrowed piece of lume. acting, both in conception and style. Whether Mr. Charles Ganith's Inquiry into the he represented the character as the author || various Systems of Political Economy is transmeant it should be represented, we cannot ven lating by Mr. D. Boileau, with additional ture to say; but he made it very striking apd || Notes. amusing.--He copied no single trait from Il Mons. C. T. Tombe's Voyage to the East Cooke, and, though upon the whole we pre- Indies, during the years 1802 to 1806, includ. fer Cooke's performance, Kemble’s exbibition | ing an account of the Cape, the Isles of Mau.
ritius, Bourbon, Java, Banca, and the city of || publish a Treatise on the improved Culture of Batavia, with Notes by M. Sonnini, is printing || the Strawberry, Raspberry, and Gooseberry, in English, from a translation by Mr. Blagdon, in two octavo volumes, with numerous SINGULAR SUICIDE.-A most extraordi. plates.
nary suicide was lately committed in France Mr. Blagdon has in the Press, in two duo-|| by an eminent literary character. By a manudecimo volumes, about Four Thousand Quo script found after the act, it was discovered tations, principally from ancient authors, with that be had no motive for raising his arm appropriate translatious in English.
against his life, but one which originated in The Rev. James Plumptre has made con. || his vanity. He was educated in a celebrated siderable progress in printing his English academy, where he was remarkable for his Drama Purified, and it will appear early in the sentimental performances, and for the spirit spring.
of republicanism, which he contributed, in the Mr. Geo. Dyer has nearly ready for publi- ||
most disastrous tines of France, to diffuse cation, a History of the University of Cam
through the nation. In his youthful days he bride, including the lives of the Founders, with
entered into a literary contest with the mem. illustrative engravings. It will be in two vo
bers of the academy to which he belonged.lumes, in quarto and in octavo, to match with
The subject was one upou which there could Chalmers' History of Oxford.
not, between two rational men, be two opiThe Rev. Thomas Wintle, author of a Com
nions. Nevertheless he, for the purpose of mentary on Daniel, has in the Press Christian
displaying bis genius, took the side which Elbics, consisting of Discourses on tbe Bea
presented nothing but obscurity and impose titudes, &c. in two octavo volumes.
sibility. His talents, however, gained him The Rev. C. Powlelt will shortly publish l not only the highest approbation, but nu. the Father's Reasons for being a Christian.
merous couverts to those opinions himself Mr. Joon Rippingham, of Westminster
considered as absurd. From this period he School, will shortly publish, Rules for Eng. dated his misery. So blown up was he with the lish Composition, and particularly for Themes,
praise of the multitude, that he made an atin a duodecimo volume. He has also in the
tack upon all established principles. Habit Press, a Translation from Longinus, with
and association conspired to dupe him through critical and explanatory Notes, in an octavo the medium of bislove of the applause bestowed volume.
upon him by the undistinguished crowd. He Mr. Thomas Clarke has nearly ready for
began to place faith in his own paradoxes. publication, a Treatise on Arithmetic, with
The world became in his mind a kind of wild Strictures on the nature of the Elementary | blemish in the creation, and the human inha. lostruction contained in English Works on bitants of it so full of nonsensical conceits, that Science.
that they could never be expected to enter The Rev. J. Nightingale, aathor of a Por- upon a stage where they could either be traiture of Methodism, is engaged on a Por- | bappier or better. Under impressions of such traiture of the Roman Catholic Religion ; with a nature, his thoughts were burthensome to au Appendix, containing a Summary of the him. He laboured for some time under this Laws against Papists, and a Review of the influence, and finding that a departure would Catholic Question of Emancipation.
be preferable to a stay in this world, re. A Description of the Island of Java, from solved to leave it. He accordingly collected Anjeric Bay in the Strait of Sunda, to Bata. || all his own compositions and burnt thiem; via, containing its Natural History, Minera. upou the flames raised by them be beated logy, &c. is in the Press.
some water, and having cut his feet with a The Sonnets and other Poetical Works of razor in several parts very deeply, placed Alfieri, are preparing for publication under them in the water. He was discovered in a the superintendance of Mr. Totte.
short time in a sitting posture, having bled Mr. Thomas Haynes, of Oundle, will soon' to death.
: HISTORICAL FRAGMENTS.--Among the il nothing without the cousent of the Chapter, numerous instances of human misery, the ef- l and finally dismissed him with an oaib, By fects of the ignorance and fauaticism of the lhe mother of Jesus I will put assist you." daik ages of Europe, may be reckoned the mel SKETCH OF THE IRISH LADIES "In gelauchvly fate of Henry IV. Emperor of Ger. || veral they are fair and well luoking. They maliy, who was also styled Henry the Elder | are not unsuccessful copyisis of Eoglish fa. avd Henry the Great. Tbe long reign of this ll shions, and have a good deal the appearance of prince, inibe nith century, was marked with | English women. If there is a shade of differmisforiunes, wbich are principally ascribed to ence, it is that their fealures are barsher, and bis quarrel with tbe clergy, and the animo. il beir persons rather more masculine. They sities i hey had excited -gainst bim for having are very fond of dancing, in wbich they disrec'aimed the possessions which had been play more vivacity and rapidity of movement lavished upon them by his predecessors. Ter. ll than elegance or grace. This, perhaps, may rified at the anathema of the Pope, he wabe no evil. Young womep who are taught the conip.lled to remain three days and thiee | steps of opera dancers, are often apt to learg nights, in the depih of winter, in the court their tricks. They are more acute and know. vard of the Pope's palace, at Carrosa, barı - ling than English meu. They bave not, I think, fooied, and imploring absolution. He was
by any means, so much sensibility; their pay afterwards deti roved by bis sou Henry, de. sions are not so easily inflamed. They can taiped some tipe in prison, and reduced to the l play about a Aame, therefore, which would most abject poverty. In his prosperity, he ll singe and cupsume an English womao. They had given the city of Kensenach, as a present
have probably more vanily, and they have to bis supposed friend Erchard, Bishop of
certainly more pride. In an Irish country Syire; and in his subsequent distress, he ap.
town, there are four or five different degrees plied to this very prelate, the sycophant of in female rank, and each class looks down with his prosperity, who then lived at Kensenach
sovereign contempt on the one below it. The in luxurious ease. Mair, a German bistorian,
consequence of this, I fear, is, that Irish worelates this circumstance in the following man.
men are not so agreeable acquaintances as Eng. der.--"Tie unfortunate Emperor came to
lish women :-they have mauy virtues, but the castle in a wretched state, as when he
pride is the rigd that conceals them." A tan waited at the palace of Carrosa, stripped to
accustomed to English manners will seldom his sbirt and barefooted. He had the attitude,
take the trouble to break it. Yet so strange & voice, and humiliated aspect of a conmon
thing is buman nature-so admirably are disbeggar. He looked up with a timid eye to advantages balanced by corresponding advantbat Bishop who had been his most intimate tages, that I have doubts whether the negative friend in the days of his prosperity, and to qualities of this very vice of pride, does out whom he had been so lavish of his bounties, ll do as much good as any positive virtue;at in hopes to receive consolation and support || least, if female chastity is the essential virtue in the countenance of his former dependant. libat prople are disposed to thiuk it. Irish He then glanced his eye on the stately dome | pride gives chastity to the females, iu a degree, which he bimself had built, and seemed to say, ll that hardly any country ibis day in Europe
behoid my claim to commiseration!' while can boast of. Adultery, or an intrigue even, the tear trickled down his grief-worn cheek lol is unknown among females in the middle class. the wounds which his rebellious son had in- || A married woman Lay be violent, may be a flicted. He vow ventures to exclaim with a termagant-an unmarried one may be pert, futtering accent, I have lost empire and may be ignorant, may be a flippant but they bope! for the love of God throw me a morsel of bread upon the ground I have given you.' “Chaste as the icicle The supercilious and inbuman priest (claim
“That bangs on Dian's temple.” ing his ecclesiastical independence of all tempo- | Climate no doubt bas some influence in this ; ral power), pretended that he could dispose of religion has some; but pride, pride is the