At this juncture I was on the point of abandoning the enterprise, for the mountain rose so precipitously above me, and the rocks frowned so grimly, that I could not discover any practicable route; however, the nil-desperandum fit of adventure came again strongly over me, and retracing my steps, I dashed once more into the forest in another direction, following a ravine, which served as a water-course for the winter torrents. For upwards of an hour did I worm my way through the dense woods, ascending gradually.

138

MAGNIFICENT VIEWS.

The heat was exceedingly oppressive, and I willingly subscribed to M. Lecocq's opinion, which originated under circumstances similar to those in which I was situated, that the gorge derives its name of Chaudefour from Four Echauffé. When at length I emerged from the woods, I found myself on the side of the mountain, which rose almost vertically; fortunately it was clothed with long grass, relieved by the pink crocus and dark blue iris; clinging to these by my hands, I pushed upwards, but the steepness was so great, that I was obliged to pause every ten minutes to regain my breath. Thus I toiled for an hour-and-a-half, enjoying, as I ascended, superb views of the extraordinary convulsed regions around me. The rocky spires, which seen from below assumed the form of detached obelisks, now appeared like huge leaves, standing out at right angles from the mountain side. Their height was prodigious; and some impended, in so threatening a manner, that it was difficult for philosophy to be heard in favour of the chances against their crashing downwards upon me. As I approached the mountain summit, the black precipices of basalt and breccia wore a most formidable appearance. Stern, indeed, was the wilderness that surrounded me. On each

side rose two jagged peaks, between which I thought the col, or passage of the mountain, must be situated. The doubts which assailed me on this point were my chief trouble. For now that I had mastered so much, to abandon the undertaking

FURTHER DIFFICULTIES.

139

would have been most vexatious. More than two hours had elapsed since I started, so that my horse was probably already journeying homewards, and to have followed him would have involved a walk of fourteen miles.

Dr. Johnson has said, that the traveller amidst such scenes as were now around me, 'has not the tranquillity, but the horrors of solitude.' The absence of sound has a particularly awing effect in high mountainous regions. Mighty monumentswrecks of fair-formed nature—were heaped in chaotic confusion on all sides. The whirlwind should have roared amongst them-and yet all was silent as the grave. I strained my aching senses expecting sounds to fill up the void. My panting breath seemed out of place amidst the breathless silence, and I more than once imagined that the terrible stillness was but the prelude of some great catastrophe.

Now stirs the feeling infinite, so felt

In solitude, when we are least alone,

A truth which through our being then doth melt
And purifies from self.

I took out my glasses, and closely examined the precipices above and around me. Their height struck no fear into me; but I eagerly sought for some chasm which would permit me to climb them. There was no vestige of a path. An Indian would have been baffled to discover the trail of any being in these wilds. Marking some conspicuous objects in the long serrated ridges that crowned the mountain, I climbed

cautiously upwards in their direction. Hopes and fears rapidly succeeded each other, as I surmounted the dizzy heights. I knew that I must be near the top, and already I began to congratulate myself on my success, when I was stopped by a basaltic wall, about twenty feet in height, so vertical and smooth as to render any attempt to surmount it utterly out of the question. I followed its base, trusting to find a break. It was really fearful to look down the long ridges of inclined strata, which dipped into dark abysses, many hundreds of feet below me. My footing was now reduced to a ledge about six inches wide. The aspect of my fortunes began seriously to alarm me; and, to heighten the horrors of my position, the · afternoon was rapidly fading into evening. At last I came to a spot where the wall retreated at a sharp angle, beyond which it presented a comparatively easy mode of ascent. I saw in a moment, that if I could turn this corner, I should be able to overcome apparently the sole remaining obstacle to my ascent of the Puy Ferrand.

I think that I must have spent fully ten minutes in devising and considering how I could best plant my feet and hands to effect this passage. When my mind was made up how to act, I withdrew my eyes from the precipice beneath, and clinging to the sharp projections of the rock with vice-like tenacity, which were to me the 'coignes of vantage,' I wormed my way round the angle, and in a few minutes had the inexpressible satisfaction of standing on broad, safe ground.

SUMMIT OF THE PUY DE FERRAND.

141

Had the ribbon-like ledge given way, I should never have lived to write this adventure. I have traversed many ugly places in the Alps and Pyrenees, where the mountains have been robed in ice and snow, but I do not remember any mauvais pas so terrific as that which I have described. M. Lecocq, in the extract from his work which I have printed, alludes to some such formidable obstacle, but he appears to have derived considerable assistance from trees and shrubs, neither of which existed at that part of the precipice which I traversed.

The remainder of the ascent was an easy affair, in comparison to what I had accomplished. In two hours and three quarters from the time I left the verge of the forest, I stood on the summit of the Puy Ferrand, which is 6094 feet high, an elevation but slightly under that of its neighbour, the Pic de Sancy.

I threw myself on the ground, greatly overcome by fatigue. All my previous excursions having been equestrian, my legs were not well educated for walking, and I would strongly advise those of my readers who may be tempted to essay this passage, to prepare themselves by a few good marches for the undertaking. I say nothing respecting the expediency of securing the services of a guide, as the reader will have seen ere this, that the advice of M. Lecocq (who has strong claims to be styled the Saussure of Auvergne,) on this head, is deserving of attention. But I may mention, in confirmation of this, that a