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FURNITURE OF THE MISSION HOUSE.

service as we have; and on the left, a chest of the same material, with the provisions of the day. Near these articles, on either side of the house, and opposite to each other, are large flat-topped trunks, spread with cushions of our own make, and covered with the figured and variegated mats of the country, forming two settees, or divans, for which the thatch, against which they stand, makes very tolerable backs. Immediately adjoining each of these, are the portable writing-desks of H and myself, elevated on packing boxes covered with native cloth, and standing under square holes cut in the thatch, on each side of the hut, for windows, but unfurnished with sash or glass. A curtain of coarse check, drawn or undrawn at pleasure, here crosses the house, behind which, on the one side, is our bed, surrounded by curtains to keep off the wind, and surmounted by a kind of canopy of mats to defend it from the rain in wet weather, and from the lizards which harbor in the grass of the sides and roof, and not unfrequently fall upon us. Opposite this is a large packing box for a dressing table. The only remaining article is a book-case of unpainted deal, against the further end, containing my library; with a window on one side, affording a view of the interior settlements and of the mountains behind, and a door on the other, the entrance to B's apartment.

Thus you perceive that our whole accommodations, huts, furniture, and I may add food, will compare in rudeness and simplicity with the meanest abode of cleanly and industrious poverty at home. We have succeeded in procuring boards for two tables, have two whole chairs, and one with a broken back: the fourth moveable seat, making the whole number belonging to the establishment, is of our own workmanship, a three-legged stool, such as that on which

"the immortal Alfred sat

And swayed the sceptre of his infant realms."

To the same age belongs our little cabin of grass, with ground floor and unglazed windows; but the poor thatch, through which, on every side, "appears the broad glare of day," is better suited to this region of perpetual sunshine,

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157

than it would be to latitudes where is nightly heard "the freezing blast" that " sweeps the bolted shutter."

I make these loopholes by which you may peep in upon us, not in a spirit of complaint, for I rejoice to assure you that days of happiness, bright as any I have ever yet known, have been spent by me on these distant shores ; but that you may see that ours is no princely establishment, according to the calumnious reports of some, in which we dwell in luxury, and lay up treasures for our children, from the charities of the church.

Tuesday, 19. Ship Mentor, Capt. Newell, of Boston, from the north-west coast, touched on her way to Oahu. The Champion, Captain Preble, also of Boston, was at anchor here two or three weeks during my illness. From both we have received expressions of great kindness.

Thursday, 21. Descried a number of sail, in the early part of the day, approaching Lahaina from the leeward of Lanai; and judged them to be the Kauai fleet, bringing Kaahumanu and king Kaumualii, who were expected from Oahu. In the course of the afternoon, three brigs and two schooners anchored in the roads. They were exceedingly crowded with people, so much so, as to have not only the decks, but the chains, bowsprit, and tops, filled; and to cause the natives, as they passed our yard, constantly to exclaim, "pau loa mai!" " every body has come."

We

soon ascertained that a large number of the chiefs, besides Kaahumanu and Kaumualii, had arrived; Kalaimoku and suite, Naihe and Kapiolani, Laanui and Namahana, Auna the Tahitian chief, and his wife, &c. An incident occurred in the landing of the crowd, which will illustrate the amphibious habits of the islanders. Besides the boats of the vessels, several double canoes were engaged in transporting the people and their effects to the shore. These are formed of two single canoes of the same size, placed parallel to each other, at a distance of three or four feet, and lashed firmly together by transverse pieces of curved wood, making a flattened arch over the water between the canoes. Other pieces of wood are fastened longitudinally on this arch, constituting an elevated platform for the passengers and luggage, while those who paddle and steer оссиру the bodies of the canoes at the sides. A boat of

158

TORCHES OF THE KUKUI NUT.

this construction left the schooner, anchored near a mile from the shore, with a heavy load, and had proceeded but a short distance before it filled with water and sunk to the surface. A shout of merriment, along the whole beach, first apprised us of the circumstance; and we reached the door in time only to see the passengers, chiefs and servants, male and female, plunging into the sea, and composedly striking for the shore with one hand, while with the other, each elevated above his head some article or package he did not wish to become wet.

Those who had the management of the canoe remained to free it from water, and to return it to the beach. This they did, by all placing their weight upon one end of it, by which means the opposite end was lifted into the air, and the water poured out; when, by a quick and dexterous return of themselves into the sea, the end elevated suddenly descended to a level again, and the whole canoe was partially relieved from her burden. By repeating this manœuvre two or three times, the greater part of the water was turned out, and the rest easily removed with a calabash.

Not unfrequently in making a passage from one island to another, their canoes become filled by the breaking of a sea; in which case they are in the same manner restored to a manageable condition: a part of the company swimming about with the luggage above water, while the rest prepare the boat for the continuance of the voyage.

Auna and Laanui took tea with us; after which, accompanied by Mr. Bingham, we called on the rest. They were partaking of a profuse supper of baked meats, soups, fish, poe, ship bread, and tea; and scattered along the beach, in temporary accommodations, surrounded by hundreds of the splendid torches of the kukui nut, made quite an imposing appearance. Kamehamalu was seated at her writing-desk in the open air, preparing a letter, by the light of the torches held by several servants, to be sent express to the king, now on the windward side of Maui, to inform him of the arrival of Kaahumanu and Kalaimoku. They were all in high spirits, and seemed greatly to enjoy the meeting which had taken place. Prayers were made at

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159

their particular request, with separate groups, in three different places, before we returned home.

The kukui tree ·aleurites triloba· is very abundant on the mountains. Its leaves are large, of a very light green, the under surface almost white; and bearing large bunches of white flowers, the contrast afforded by it, with the dark green of other mountain growth, has a very pretty effect, both when viewed near and at a distance. The nut of this tree was the principal substitute for candles among the islanders before the introduction of oil by the whale ships. It is nearly as large as a Madeira nut, to which it bears some resemblance. It is full of a rich oil; and after being slightly baked, is formed into torches by stringing thirty or forty nuts together on a rush; and enclosing four or five of these strings in the leaves of the ki or hala. After being lighted, before one nut is consumed the flame communicates to the oil of that next below; as the flame expires, the shell of the exhausted nut is struck off, till the whole is consumed.

Sabbath, 24. Thinking it a favorable opportunity for opening the chapel, while Mr. Bingham and so many of the chiefs are with us, we had the house prepared yesterday, and gave notice that the public services of the Sabbath would be held in it. Mr. Bingham accordingly preached a dedicatory sermon; text, "This is none other but the house of God, and this is the gate of Heaven." Seldom have we seen any house filled with a more crowded and attentive audience. The chiefs appeared greatly interested in the sermon and exercises. May it prove the birthplace of many souls, and an entrance to Heaven through which multitudes shall be added to the ransomed of the Lord!

CHAPTER IX.

RESIDENCE IN MAUI.

Mission house, Lahaina, Sept. 2, 1823. olani has been unwell for some days.

Queen KeopuIt is a custom

160

ILLNESS OF THE QUEEN-MOTHER.

among the chiefs to assemble at any place where one of their number of much importance is ill; the least indisposition of a very high chief will thus call the ke poe n' Alii, or company of chiefs, together. The illness of Keopuolani, though not supposed serious, has occasioned despatches to be sent by several native vessels, for the high

chiefs on all the different islands.

Thursday, 4. When we rose this morning, three vessels, two schooners and a brig, were approaching Lahaina. Just after breakfast, one of the schooners came to anchor, and brought to us Mr. Ellis, on his return from the tour of Hawaii. The deputation have had a most interesting, but fatiguing journey; and a slight glance at the journal and drawings of Mr. Ellis, makes me regret more than ever the necessity that denied me the pleasure of accompanying him. The rest of the gentlemen have gone direct to Honolulu in the brig Becket. The other vessels were the Waverly and the Waterwitch, from Oahu, bringing the chiefs sent for by Keopuolani.

Shortly after these had landed, I went to the residence of the queen, and witnessed one of the most striking peculiarities in the customs of the islanders-that of wailing. There were not less than fifty chiefs around the couch of the queen, and twice that number of their attendants, all weeping aloud with an apparent sincerity and depth of feeling that could not be witnessed, considering the present occasion of it, without exciting sympathy in the spectator. The young Kahalaia, a nephew of the late king, was the only one of the number just arrived who entered the house after I did. He is one of the most stern and forbidding of the chiefs, but the general inflexibility of his character seemed to give way at the scene; and after kneeling and saluting the sufferer respectfully and tenderly, he struggled for a moment with a convulsive emotion, and then "lifted up his voice," and wept in a manner that would have touched any heart.

To us these wailings appear extremely barbarous, though I doubt not they are precisely the expressions of sorrow made by the most refined and polished of the ancients; and I never witness them without being reminded of the mournings of the people of Israel, as spoken of in the