MARRIAGE CEREMONIES. 43 Christian heads, in order to save the girl's soul; but Ali had him turned immediately out of the room. Had this measure been adopted, my head might possibly have counted as one. "We walked through the streets this day as usual; but were afterwards told that we had acted imprudently in doing so. There are certainly many parts of Turkey where we might have been exposed to the fury of the Mahometans: but considering the authority of Ali Pasha, as well as his extreme care not only to protect but even to please the English, I believe we incurred very little danger." Thus these barbarians treat that weak and gentle sex, whom they themselves drive into error, instead of endeavouring to retain them within the path of virtue: not only do they totally neglect their education and improvement, but by their polygamical institution, that gross violation of Nature's law and the social compact, they destroy at once all those tender affections which are the strongest inducements to chastity and virtue. The emancipation of females from tyrannical prejudices will be slow but certain among the Greeks, and they will ultimately attain the proper station to which they are entitled; but with the Turks the case is very different, and almost hopeless: for amelioration is opposed by the detestable principles of their religion, if indeed it can be called a religion, which teaches that women are born but for the gratification of man and the propagation of the species; which turns them into slaves; and perpetuates the degrading inferiority by denying them participation even in the public worship of their Creator. The marriage ceremony among the Mahometans is very 44 ALBANIAN WEDDING. simple, being merely a civil contract signed and witnessed before the cadi: the Greek rites are numerous and absurd, but have often been described as an Albanian wedding however may possibly be new to the reader, I shall finish this chapter with the account of one which I received from a friend who was present at the ceremony. "The bridegroom goes on horseback to the dwelling of the bride he is there presented with an immense loaf, which he breaks into pieces and throws to the spectators at the door, who are all very eager to procure a piece. When he enters he is invited by the parents to sit down to eat and drink, a ceremony which is generally most voraciously complied with: the mother kisses the bridegroom, and ties round his neck a handkerchief, a present from his fair one and sometimes embroidered by her hands. The duty of the priest is generally performed in the house or garden, it not being at all necessary that it should take place in the church: they then mount on horseback, the bridegroom first, dressed in his best apparel, and carefully wrapped in cloaks, looking very downcast, and supported by his friends, as if he were unable to endure so awful a ceremony: the bride is veiled, but loaded with finery, which is either her own, or borrowed for the occasion: at some distance from the house they are met by their friends and the young girls of the neighbourhood, who dance before them to music, which is accompanied by the voices of the party; and this is by far the most interesting part of the ceremony. On arriving at the house, the father of the bride receives her in his arms at the door, and while she is apparently forced to enter, throws a pomegranate against the wall as an omen of fertility; the mother of the bridegroom presents her with honey, corn and oil, and winding a shawl round them both, she, together with the relations, drag them into ALBANIAN WEDDING. 45 the apartment, the bride affecting great reluctance and resistance: she is there unveiled, and is obliged to stand with downcast eyes, like a statue, against the wall: after this she is saluted by the relations and friends, and is ready to receive any little presents which they may be generous enough to offer. They then sit down to a feast, prepared according to the means of the family, all except the bride, who frequently remains standing many hours whilst the company eat, and bows with great complaisance to every one that drinks her health." 46 SHOOTING EXCURSION WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. CHAPTER III. ON the morning after the marriage feast, we received an invitation to accompany Mouchtar Pasha in a grand shooting excursion upon the lake. We lost no time in preparing our fowling pieces, and descended to the quay accompanied by Nicolo and his brother Giovanni, where we found two caiques waiting for us by the Pasha's orders all the others belonging to Ioannina, amounting to more than a hundred, were engaged for the sport: we observed them already moving towards the southern extremity of the lake like a Lilliputian fleet, and our boatmen redoubling their efforts, we soon overtook them : each caique, besides the rower, contained one or more sportsmen, with as many guns as they could collect. For a considerable distance the squadron moved forward in a strait line, driving before it myriads of wild fowl of every species, until at length the boats at the extremities shot a-head, and formed a curvilinear line, enclosing a large space of water. As this circle narrowed itself, the birds confined within began to rise in dark masses like clouds, and to fly over our heads. Then the firing commenced and continued about ten minutes or a quarter of an hour, until the SHOOTING EXCURSION WITH MOUCHTAR PASHA. 47 surface of the water was strewed with wild-fowl. We were stationed near the centre of this circle, close to the Pasha, who had about twenty guns in his boat, with one of his Albanians to load them as quick as they were discharged. He was an excellent shot, and rarely missed his bird: it is said that he could shoot a hare when he was on horseback at full gallop, but this feat we never witnessed. Some of his guns were of a great length, and he was so much surprised at seeing me bring down a bird at a long shot, with a very short fowling piece, that he requested me to send it for his inspection into the caique. After the sportsmen had picked up their game, the squadron was again set in motion, to pursue the wild fowl which had retreated to a different part of the lake: the scene was exceedingly beautiful, for the sun shone brilliantly, and the snow-capt mountains, with the convents villages and cypress groves upon the banks, were finely reflected in the transparent water: the firing from the boats had the effect of a naval engagement in miniature, the echoes of the musketry being increased and prolonged amidst the folds of the surrounding hills: hundreds of eagles and vultures flying around the shores of the lake, flapping their enormous wings, and screaming as it were with delight in the prospect of their prey, added much to the grandeur of the scene. After we had been thus engaged about four hours, the vizir himself made his appearance in his state barge, but did not join in the sport; soon afterwards the wind began to rise, and occasioned rather a heavy swell; the signal was then given for dispersion, and the caiques all hastened with their loads towards the city. Mouchtar however had prepared a dinner at the house of one of his retainers on the island, of which he invited us to partake: accordingly we landed at the village, and found very excellent fare provided in a house |