ページの画像
PDF
ePub

CUSTOMS AND MANNERS OF NATIONS.

"

SCENERY, BUILDINGS, AND INHABITANTS OF MYSORE.

[From Lord VALENTIA's Travels.]

FEBRUARY 23.-I had found it impossible to leave Madras till the evening, in consequence of an engagement to dine with General Stuart; but by ten I quitted my house, and settled myself for the night in my palanquin. The first set of bearers was excellent, and carried me twenty-six miles in five hours, during which time I had not been once interrupted by the usual demand of my passport; the second set was indifferent, so that I did not reach Conjeveram till nine on the 24th.

February 24.-The country after I awoke was flat and sandy, with frequent jungle, till I approached the town, where the paddy fields were cultivating. I was met at the entrance into the town by the peons of the Collector, and conducted to a house of his where he occasionally resides, and where he had sent servants to wait my arrival, and procure for me every thing that I might want. Here I staid some hours, during which time I received a visit from the Aumil. In defiance of a very

pleasant breeze, the thermometer stood in the room at 89o.

The pagodas here are large, and of the same shape as at Tanjore; the tanks are lined with stone, and in good repair; the streets are wide, and cross each other at right angles, with a range of cocoa-nut trees on each side, and the whole town has the appearance of prosperity. I was much struck with the chariots employed in carrying the chief deity of the place, on his annual visitation, to another pagoda they were much larger than any I had seen, and, though disproportioned, must be handsome when decorated with coloured ornaments, as drawn by Mr. Salt. At one I again set off. In passing the great pagoda, dedicated to Iswara, the priests and numerous dancing-girls were drawn out to pay their compliments. The latter were very numerous, and some of them pretty. The heat of the sun was extremely oppressive, the thermometer being at 960; we were therefore able to go but slowly. Villages are thinly scattered,

the

1

the jungle is more frequent, and the soil a dry gravelly sand, which being raised by the wind, nearly suffocated me. The choultries erected by pious natives, to give shade, and often subsistence, to travellers, are frequent, but falling into decay. Their greatest enemy is the banian tree: the seed is car ried by birds to the top, and in the rainy season it finds nourishment between the large stones, where it gradually takes root, separating them as it increases in thickness, till at length the building becomes a heap of ruins.

Around most of the villages are the remains of a hedge, with a rampart, and stone bastions at the gateway and angles. These were erected to protect the inhabitants from the incursions of Tippoo's predatory horse, who devastated the Carnatic, and carried off the inhabitants. He even injured the noble tank at Cauverypauk, which is said to be the largest in the Carnatic. It is, however, now repaired, and again fertilizes a large tract of country. As I passed it I observed the ruins of a fort; but nothing appeared in the town to tempt me to visit it. At half after six I reached Wallajapettah, where I changed bearers. The night was cool and refreshing. About twelve I awoke, and found myself coasting along the chain of hills that command Vellore: the road winded among vast masses of rock, and groves of the wild date, and the palmira, with here and there a small pasture.

The moon shone bright, and rendered the scene most beautiful, from the strong effect of the light and shade on the mountains. At two I reached the outer works of the pettah of Vellore, which here descend from the lofty ridge, and

wind along the valley. Within all was barren and rocky. I passed the town, and reached the gate of the fort; but the sentinel refused to admit me. I was obliged to write a note with a pencil, by the light of the moon, to Colonel Campbell, the commandant, which with some difficulty I persuaded an European serjeant to carry in. After the delay of an hour I was admitted. The guards were turned out, and Colonel Campbell received me at the steps of his house, and apologized for the delay I had suf fered.

February 25.-After breakfast I took a walk with Major Marriot, who has had the care of Tippoo's family since their arrival here, to see a palace or pagoda, now converted into a magazine. It forms one side of the public square, in which are also the palaces of the princes, the commandant's house, and the houses of the chief inhabitants. In the front is a lofty gateway of the usual inelegant, but imposing architecture. On each side is a statue of a kind of blue stone, with four arms, which were found under ground in the interior of the building, and have been placed here by the British. After passing the gateway on the left, is a very noble apartment, supported by pillars, singularly but beautifully carved. Nothing but the patient labour of a Hindoo could have finished so minute a work. Each pillar is of a single stone: those in front are composed partly of figures on horseback, carved with considerable spirit; the others are on every side divided into square compartments, many containing the different adventures of Crishna with the Gopi's; and the very remarkable mythological tradition of his treading on the serpent's

head:

bead: on others are the many fantastic figures to which the Hindoo religion has given birth. Major Marriot very kindly presented me with drawings of several of the pillars, which it was difficult at that time to examine, from. the quantity of stones that were piled within. He also inquired for me from the descendants of the builders, what tradition they have concerning the founder; but all I could learn was, that it was built by a Naig of the place, about four hundred years ago. The musnud was placed in the back part of the building; it was about twelve feet square, and rested on the back of a prodigious tortoise.

Opposite

the

to this apartment, which was probably the durbar of the Prince, is another, similar in size, but of a different architecture, and more plain. Facing the great gateway are several small pagodas of the Tanjore architecture, surrounded by a wall. These seem much more ancient than others. As I returned, I observed several figures of Rama and his monkey generals on the inside of the gateway. A figure also was pointed out to me, which was said to be that of the founder. Nothing could be more natural than that he should wish to immortalize himself as the framer of so beautiful a building. The delicacy of the workmanship certainly surpasses any thing I have seen.

The fort of Vellore has been chosen for the prison of Tippoo's family, from its being one of the strongest places in India. The walls are built of very large stones, and have bastions and round towers at short distances. A fausse-bray lines the wall between them, and with its embattled rampart, and small overhanging square towers,

produces a very handsome effect. A deep and wide ditch, chiefly cut out of the solid rock, surrounds the whole fort, except at one entrance, where there was a causeway, according to the Indian system. They are now removing this, and constructing the more certain defence of a draw-bridge in its stead. In addition to the usual defence, the ditch is filled with alligators of a very large size. With these, a serjeant of the Scotch brigade engaged in battle for a small wager. He entered the water, and was several times drawn under by the ferocious animals. He, however, escaped at last, with several severe wounds. A glacis has been formed where the ditch is narrow. The whole reminded me very much of the architecture of the ancient English baronial castles.

The fort of Vellore is so completely commanded from the hills, that a six-pounder can from any of them throw a shot over it. On the three loftiest summits are three forts: one only has water, and is too large; did it occupy only the summit, it might be easily rendered impregnable; and till it is taken, no attack can be made on the forts below. Hyder was aware of this, and when he besieged Vellore, he, by great exertions, got some pieces of cannon up to a fourth point, from which he made a breach in the small fort, and intended to have stormed it in the night; but was prevented by a drummer deserting, and giving him notice that just within the breach was a deep pit, into which his whole party would otherwise have fallen and perished. He was, however, obliged to commence a new attack, and before he could succeed, Sir Eyre Coote relieved the place. The conquest of Mysore has rendered

Vellore

Vellore of little importance, so that, had it not been for the accommodation of Tippoo's family, it would most probably have been permitted to go to decay.

The hills render Vellore extremely sultry. The thermometer was 869 in the shade; yet on returning from my walk, I found the British officers playing at cricket in the great square. No wonder if the liver is so frequently affected! I should have been very happy to have seen Tippoo's sons, but my wish to arrive as soon as possible at Mangalore, made me hasten my departure. I sent my compliments, and expressed my regret that I could not have the pleasure of paying them a visit. From Major Marriot I received every information respecting them that I wished to obtain. They occupy the ancient palace, to which very large additions were made previously to their arrival. The public apartments are handsome, and common to all of them; but within, each has his own. They are treated with great attention, and have every indulgence that is consistent with the safe custody of their persons. At present they are totally deprived of the liberty of quitting the fort, and even at each door of the palace people are placed to watch them. These strict precautions have only been used since the attempt to liberate them.

There are in all, twelve sons and eight daughters of Tippoo's. Futty Hyder, the eldest, but illegitimate son, has twelve or fourteen children. He, as well as his three next brothers, have 50,000 rupees each per annum; a much larger sum than he really received during his father's life-time, though he was nominally in possession of a larger jaghire. Yet probably he has

lost more than any by the deposing of his family; for though Tippoo certainly did not intend him to succeed to the musnud, yet, as he was the only one known to the troops, and was by no means unpopular, it seems likely that he would have seized the succession.

Futty Hyder conducts himself with the utmost propriety, as indeed do all of them, except Sultan Moiz-ud-Deen, the eldest legitimate son, who gives Major Marriot a great deal of trouble by his misconduct. He spends all the money he can procure in buying dancing-girls, runs in debt, and even lately murdered a female who had been employed in the harem as a servant. All the sons, except the four eldest, have only 25,000 rupees per annum, which they receive on their being fourteen years old. The females are nearly eight hundred in number, including se veral of Hyder's. Those of rank have each a separate room, and a small allowance of pocket-money; but the whole harem is supplied with provisions, as in the time of Tippco.

In order that they might be able to converse with Major Marriot, who had the whole arrangement of their affairs, without a breach of Mussulman propriety, they adopted him into the family, and, conse quently, call him brother. He as

sures me that they are happy and satisfied. Indeed, they have most certainly suffered no loss, as their lot is much better than it otherwise would have been under any successor of Tippoo's. They come from different parts of the world, and each furnishes her apartment according to the fashion of her own country. Major Marriot has therefore the singular knowledge of the manners of the harem of Persia, of Delhi,

and

and of many other Mussulmaun kingdoms. The allowance made by Tippoo Sultaun to his family. and that of Hyder, including the whole expenses of their maintenance, were little more than a lac of pagodas; yet the British have liberally appropriated two lacs for the use of the prisoners, which is found to be more than sufficient; though if all the sons should increase their families like Futty Hyder, it will be difficult to say, what will be requisite. I pity most the young females, many of whom were betrothed before the death of their father, but have not yet been permitted to go to their husbands. It may be dangerous to extend the alliance of a family, which has been always looked up to as the head of the Mussulmaun religion in the East.

In a small habitation near the palace resides a brother of Tippoo, who is deranged. Major Marriot had much trouble in removing him from Seringapatam. He intoxicated himself with bang, and sallied forth at the head of his women, declaring that he would not go. His poor women fell at the feet of the Major, conjuring him not to put their master to death. At length he was forced into a palanquin stout eunuchs, and care was taken that he should have no more bang.

I doubted whether it would not at first have been more advisable to remove the whole of the Hyder family to Calcutta, where they were unknown, and where the citadel would easily have lodged them; for, independently of any danger of these young tigers becoming again mischievous, their being at Vellore had at least the inconvenience of keeping 3000 men idle, who might otherwise have been

usefully employed. It is thought advisable to have a part of the garrison Europeans, which renders the evil still greater.

The fatal events which have since occurred, prove that the danger was greater than I then supposed; and the prudent consequence has been the removal of the males of Tippoo's family to Calcutta. — I trust that the dreadful massacre, which took place on the 10th of July, 1806, has awakened the Governors of India to a due sense of the dangers that surround them, from the determined hostility of all the Mussulmaun princes of that country. There can be no doubt that Tippoo's sons, particularly Moiz-ud-Deen, were deeply implicated in the conspiracy; and it appears equally certain, that the promptitude of Colonel Gillespie alone saved us from a religious war throughout the Carnatic.

have

It must not be forgotten, that a similar attempt was made in Bengal by Vizier Ali. Though the danger was at that time obviated, yet the seeds of hostility still remain, and can be removed only by the vigilance of government, and a scrupulous attention to the prejudices of the Hindoos, who form a majority of the population of the country. The enmity and attempts of Tippoo's family must proved completely unavailing, had we not absurdly furnished them with arguments to mislead the minds of the sepoys, by persisting in a measure, which had created such general discontent. Nothing indeed could be more unfounded than the insinuations, that there was any intention of obliging the sepoys to become Christians: it is even probable that the turban itself, which was proposed to be generally introduced among our na

[ocr errors][ocr errors][ocr errors][merged small]
« 前へ次へ »