without the sight of one such spectacle as thisand all owing to the circumstances-the time-the hour. It was perhaps not the least of those circumstances influencing the scene, that it was an hour, passed in one of his own holy retreats, with Wordsworth !

Amid these lakes and mountains of Cumberland and Westmoreland, nature seems to delight herself in contrasts, and that, as in many human works, is here perhaps the secret of power: the wildest mountains and mountain crags, with the sweetest valleys and dales amid them-as Borrowdale, Patterdale, Langdale, and sometimes one little sheltered spot, all verdure, only large enough for one farm-as in coming from Conniston through one of the Langdales; the roughest passes through mountain defiles, opening suddenly upon smooth and green vales, as in going from Buttermere to Borrowdale, or entering Patterdale from the south; a lake and a valley beneath your eye, and a world of mountains beyond, as in entering Keswick from the south and then, when were ever seen such crystal streams-waters of such transparent and living purity!

All this, to be sure, is mere memorandum; but for the same purpose I will take up half a page, with marking my route, which was adopted on com

petent advice, and may possibly be of service to some friend who shall follow me-which friend I advise to take for his excursion, as I did, a pony at Ambleside. From Ambleside, then, I went to Conniston and back-a day's ride; then, to Keswick; thence, a day's excursion, around through Newlands, by Buttermere, and Honister Crag-through Borrowdale, by the Bowder Stone-an immense rock, evidently fallen from the precipice above, sixty-two feet long, thirty-six high, eighty-nine round, weight, 1,971 tons--by Lowdore Falls, a little nothing for a fallas were all the falls I went to see about herescarcely any water, but a romantic little scene ; back to Keswick by the shore of Derwent Water. This is the most beautiful part of the ride; the bold wooded islands in the lake, with the glades and cultivated swells beyond appearing between them, and Skiddaw in the background.

From Keswick to Lyulph's Tower on Ullswater -the first view of Ullswater very striking; the waters very dark; a dark, leaden coloured mountain rising up from the very edge of the water! a fine ride along down the shore, four miles, to Patterdale-through Patterdale, back to Ambleside. On the whole, perhaps, Ullswater presents more impressive scenery than any other lake. The scenery certainly is more bold.

VOL. I.-I

Nothing can exceed the beauty of the cottages, and of their situations about these lakes. So also the sailboats, passing in all directions, seen among the wooded islands and shooting out from behind the headlands, freighted with beauty, and mirth, and music, communicate an inexpressible life and charm to the scenery. And I fancy that such tokens of social happiness are very necessary to give these scenes the power they have, over the heart and imagination. It fills up the measure of the contrast. But that is not it-or it is not all. These signs of humanity and happiness make the scene image to us ourselves, as well as the Supreme Power. In the unvisited wilds of nature, in dell and grot, in grove and greensward untrodden by the footsteps of men, the mind is prone to imagine that fairy creatures walk; poetry has peopled them with life; the strong sympathy of the soul calls upon the whole creation to give it back, the image of itself.

AUGUST 3. I left the lake country and came down to Kendal.

The ride from Kendal to Lancaster is a pleasant one, especially about the banks of the Kent. At Lancaster is a castle, now turned into a jail, which belonged to the house of Lancaster, and was built in the reign of Edward III. The central tower,

the only portion of the old castle remaining, is square, and huge enough to have belonged to

"Old John of Gaunt, time-honoured Lancaster."

It is called John of Gaunt's Chair. Appropriately to this title, there is from the top of the tower a very delightful prospect. A fine symbol of office for an old baronial sovereign-patriarch, chieftain, landlord, all in one; a tower for his chair, where he sits, a king farmer, to overlook the rich glebe, pasture and valley. Those forms of power, with the rough and sternhearted times that gave them birth, are passing away. May other and nobler forms arise to take their place!

CHAPTER V.

Railway from Liverpool-Manchester-Derbyshire-Chatsworth -Haddon Hall-Matlock-Scenery and Guides-Wellesley Castle-Litchfield-Birmingham-Musical Hall-Concerts in America-Kenilworth-Warwick-Stratford on Avon-Shaks

peare.

RAILWAY from Liverpool. The tunnel disappointed me. It is not so great a work as I expected-not so long. The motion on the railway is so rapid as to set everything in the country about-houses, trees, groves-dancing a waltz. It seems as if the whole surrounding creation were revolving in circles-the distant objects going one way, and those nearest, the opposite way.

MANCHESTER-Wrapped in the cloud of smoke proceeding from its innumerable manufactories. For the sole power is steam here; every factory has its engine and its high chimney, sending out its dense, black volume of smoke, as it were, in the very face of the pure heavens-which foul mass of sulphurous vapours descends into the streets, infesting the nostrils, choking the lungs, blearing