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COSTUME.

you

plume of white feathers; and a few black Cabinet of Taste;
velvet hats have already been seen iu carri.
ages, surmounted by that elegant appendage

OR MONTHLY COMPENDIUM OF FOREIGN a full plume of small white feathers falling, and beautifully playing over the front of

By a Parisian Correspondent. the hat, which is partially turued up; to those whose complexions are only toler

COSTUME OF PARIS. ably fair this hat is truly becoming; to a belle blonde it is beyond all praise.

When you bade me adieu a few days We have been favoured with the sight in Paris, you seemed half to repeut your

since, after passing an unpleasant fortnight of some black velvet dresses now in preparation for the cold and gloomy days of having taken a trip to this capital at the November. They are chiefly calculated unpropitious season of short and rainy days; for eveuing parties, but may be adopted as you have, however, you say, considerably dinner dresses : their sombre hue is finely enlarged your correspondence on the Coprelieved by rouleaux of white satin round

tinent;-tant mieux. I sball proceed then the border over a broad and superb flounce

to perform the part which you bave allot. of white blond of a rich and striking pat

ed to me, and with which you highly tern. With these dresses are generally gratified me by saying you were pleased, expected to be worn a dress hat of black as your own ocular demonstration made velvet with white feathers, or of white

find

my fashionable intelligence to be satin, ornamented with the feathers of the

correct. I will now proceed to state to tropic bird, a new and unique article of you what few alterations have taken place taste and value.

since your departure. Next in estimation to the fine light silk

You were an eye witness that our French velvet, are poplins and reps silk; which ladies of the present day are very unlike latter article is chiefly in requisition for those at the latter end of the last century; half dress, while cambrics and India muslinthey brave the cold; nor are they retarded still maintain their station at the breakfast even by a keen north wind from taking the table, and for the receiving of personal wholesome exercise of walking: among morning visits. With the déjeune costume these our hardy belles, pelisses of coating is worn an elegant cornette of an entire are preparing, and are expected to be very new shape, made of very fine net or cypress general for the walking costume this winter. tiffany, with lace let simply in, but not in At present the pelisses are made of twilled profusion, and its sole ornaments narrow sarsnet, with capes and lapels, of a different rouleaux of pearl-coloured satin : the Mary colour to the pelisse, which buttons down Scot cornette is also much worn in un.

the front with straps the same colour as dress.

the lapels, each strap having a handsome Amongst the other head-dresses is the l ornamental button : the sleeves are slashed dinner cornette à-la-Soubrette, with full with satin at the top d-l'Espagnole. The crown of net and rouleaux of white satin, pelerine tippets, which you said fatigued separated from the head-piece by a wreath of your eyes by their sameness in the walks various kinds of flowers: cornettes for friend of the Thuilleries, are more in favour than ly visits are smaller, and are crowned on ever, but they have undergone some trifling the summit with a full wreath of half blown change; they are now made with long

ends, and are generally confined by a broad There is yet a kind of stagnation in fa- | sash of ribband; these ends are made one shion this mouth, till the winter modes longer than the other, and the longest often become fixed; but we can conclude our

descends as far as to the hem of the gown observations with the theatrical assurance, border; the sashes are tied before, and the that “ several novelties are in prepara ends hang down with those of the pelerines. tion."

Spensers are made to turn back in front The favourite colours are garter purple, with buttons, and have sashes also worn amaranth, a very light shade of fawn.co with them tied before: the sleeves are lour, and French grey.

puckered full at the top, and are often

moss roses.

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ornamented all the way to the wrists with broidered with silks of different colours, puffings.

others, with a row of satin cockleshell Mantles of kerseymere are among the trimming: but the most costly and elegant newest inventions, and promise to be gene gowns are of Cachemire, with a border of ral; they are made like the ancient French || large palm leaves. Violet-coloured silk capuchin, with arm-holes, and have a gowns are also much admired; they are double collar, one standing up, and made of made with a pelerine cape, with a very velvet, either poppy.colour, amaranth, grey, broad border of Buted ribband: some have or black; the other, which falls down, is of | two or three rows of this bordering; so the same material as the mantle, which is that the trimming at the bottom of the lined with silk; some ladies, instead of a robe is seldom broader than that on the falling collar, wear a small hood, the same pelerine, only that on the border are seven as the mantle; the kerseymere of which is or eight rows of this fluted ribband: you lilac and white, blue and white, dead leaf are one of the disciples of Taste, and I and white, or plumb-colour and white. know you will agree with me that this

Do you recollect the dinner we took to- trimming is as beavy as it is expensive.gether at the house of the rich President's These violet silk dresses are very much lady? How much we admired ber desert worn at the Thuilleries; I know not wheservice of cut crystal! now every thing is ther there is any meaning attached to them. changed, and at a dinner of ceremony, Amongst the other novelties of the day is every article is served up in the finest an apron of richly embroidered muslin, to china; and only sweetmeats or jellies can which is attached a corsage of the saide, be presented in cut crystal. I am sure you and the whole is superbly trimmed with have not forgot meeting the same lady's fine Mechlin lace : with this apron is gene. awkward daughters the next morning, in rally worn a gown of lilac sarsnet, and a large cambric bounets, which are still very bonnet of fine muslin, embroidered with prevaleut: gauze bonnets are yet seen, in dark-shaded pinks. mild weather, in the public walks; and The toques worn at court form a diadem crape, with Gros de Naples, for the carriage, in front, and are there ornamented with a adorned with the flowers most in season ; kind of aigrette, made of jewels, gold, or but a variety of colours is no longer recko silver, kuown by the vame of esprit : these oned tasteful : the lilac silk bonnets worn tuques are of crape and silver lama: when when you were here, are yet in favour, ladies go without a cap, the hair is dressed and are ornamented with daisies of the very low; and when crowned with a garsame colour. Yellow crape hats, with land of flowers, the wreath is placed in a white marabout feathers, are a very favour. horizontal direction : young ladies wear ite head-covering for the carriage; but wreaths of roses placed very low on the when these bats are worn in the public forehead, wbile others place them on the walks, or at the theatre, their ornament summit of the liead, like a crown; but this cousists of a bunch of moss roses, or of is according to the beauty of the head, or yellow roses with their leaves. The bon. the defect of the forehead.

At evening pets that are made of green Gros de Naples, parties, toques of Gros de Naples, or of are ornamented with a bunch of daisies of gauze, are worn, placed very much ou one a mazarine blue; the crowns of the bommets side, aud ornamented with plumes of down are round, and not quite so low as they feathers, with a full blown rose at the were last month.

bottom of the plume. Cornettes à la Marie Gowns of Gros de Naples, with pelerines Stuart are very prevalent in déshabille. and flounces of the same, are likely to be Shag silk promises to be a favourite very fashionable this winter; there have trimming this winter; it is very much imalready appeared some of reps silk, orna- proved in the manufacturing, aud has now mented with puflings of satin; white gowns the appearance of Swaurduwui. are, however, very general, and these are The favourite colours are rose-colour and ornamented, at the border, with flounces celestial blue; but vivlet has the pre-emior rows of muslin bouillonés. A few white Merino crapes have appeared ; some em Though the little presents you took to

pence

194

VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

England were extremely elegant, yet, as made of silk, which is trimmed with seve. you said you might commission me forral rows of quillings, and is tied about the something more new, I must inform you middle of the back part of the bead, and that no gift is reckoned now so acceptable depends from thence. Women belonging as a little basket of polished steel, just in to the higher classes, though in every other vented among the most famous Bijoutiers ; || respect they dress like Spaniards, yet dress it is meant as a repository for a lady's || their beads in the French and English work, thimble, scissors, and needle case : at style, with ornamental combs, flowers, caps, the bottom of the basket is a small looking- &c.; but women of every coudition wear glass, with a sliding cover, beautifully the mezzaro, and a little mantilla, or veil, enamelled; or, if you like it better, a new which, fixed backward, near the crown of kind of card-rack of red morocco, with the liead, falls behind down to the girdle : gold-headed nails to fasten it to the stucco : this is either of muslin, leno, or crape, and the names of each day of the week are almost invariably trimmed with lace: it is elegantly studded in small points of polish- a very graceful appendage to dress. The ed steel. Underneath the racks is a small | Spanish ladies are never without a fan in box of bergamot, with a lock and key; | their hand, which they use with peculiar one marked south, the other north; and in | grace, either in saluting any one, or in which, letters are deposited that come from making signs of friendship and intimacy ; either quarter.

and they often, with the most finished coThe price of these articles is in my pri- | quetry, raise up with it the mezzaro, at that vate letter.

moment when it imports them to display,

as if by accident, the beauty of their comPRESENT COSTUME OF THE SPANISH plexion, and the brilliancy of their eyes.

LADIES. A PETTICOAT, which scarce descends so DRESS OF THE FEMALES AT THE low as the ancle; a mezzaro over the head,

HAGUE, with which a Spanish Jady conceals or The middle class of females, and indeed shews as much of her face as she pleases : some of the better sort, dress in a most she generally carries her rosary in one singular manner: they wear a long-waisted hand, and a fan in the other. To the an gown, of broad striped woollen or cotton cient cotella, or stays, a collection of whale- ' stuff, over three or four thick petticoats, bone, and bars of steel, has succeeded a black stockings, and clumsy shoes, with corset of dimity, with long sleeves, close to immense buckles of silver. Their head is the arm, and buttoned at the wrist. Their ornamented with a mob cap, fastened under silk petticoats, and even those of stuff, are the chin, with a small bonpet over it, which adorned with fringes, puffings, tucks, and is generally black. They usually adorn other fashionable trimmings; they often themselves with large gold earrings, costly ornament them besides, with three flounces ' necklaces, and a profusion of gold rings of black lace. The cofia is a kind of bag almost cover their fingers.

MONTHLY MISCELLANY;
INCLUDING VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

THE THEATRES,

COVENT-GARDEN. MURPHY's comedy of The Way to Keep Him has been revived; in which Mr. W. Farren plays the part of Sir Bashful Con. stant; and it is but justice to add, that he makes as much of it as the part will admit:

lie has since supported bis previous reputation by his performance of Sir Anthony Absolute, in The Rivals. He never forgets that Sir Anthony is a gentleman ; and while he gives peculiar humour to the character, broad as it is, he contrives to throw into it that tinge and colour, which preserve not only its life, but its manners,

VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

185

cleared up

niers

DRURY-LANE,

double profit, receives a porse froin each master: Kran has returned to this theatre, and he promises Dorval to set both his creditors and has performed those characters in which

his mistress free; he promises Berville to make he has before shewn himself so eminently

Dorval take a wrong road, and to overturn bis

chaise. successful.

Madame Rosemont, an old maid, pretending A Madame Belgar has appeared in The to be lovely, irritated against Berville by the Duenna, in the character of Don Carlos.footboy, claims the performance of his promises She much disappointed our expectations : contained in a love letter that James has interber merit is in that distinct enunciation of cepted, and which he persuaded her was adher words, so unusual with singers; and in

dressed to her. Dorval interrupts the conversaa mellowness and fullness of voice, so far

tion. Berville slips out, and leaves his friend

to the old lady. But just as he is about to deas her power extends. Her defect is, that part, he falls into the snare that he had spread her voice has a small compass, not ascend. for Doival; he is arrested by order of the coming, as we should think, beyond four notes mandant of the place, who is the dupe of a false of the second octave--that is to say, an oc report: he passes for Dorral, and is himself tave and a half. Hence she is manifestly under arrest.

This mistake, is, however, soon deficient in the higher notes of the two

Berville obtains his freedom, and songs in The Duennu, Had I a heart for two lovers take the road to the chateau of Do

Dorral having got rid of Madame Rosemont, the falsekood fram’d,” and “Ah! sure a pair rimon was never seen." In the lower tones of When they are abont balf way, their carriage these songs, nothing could be more pleas- breaks down ; the travellers request the rites of ing than her voice and expression ; and ihe hospitality at a solitary mansion belonging to more so, because it was not ouly good, but M. Rapinier, the steward of Dorimon, and erho

has been so much in love with what belongs to was an original manner.

bis master since the lwenty years that he has

manoged his affairs, that he has contracted the FRENCH THEATRICALS.

constant habit of saving, my castle, and my far.

He receives the two young friends, whom TAEATRE DE L'OPERA COMIQUE.

he takes to be two adventurers, surlily enonghi, Sketch of The First Comer (Du Premier and goes to bed, leaving them to depart as son Venu), comic opera of three acts: as they please. Lorral, in order to prevent the

Dorval and Berviile, officers in the same corps, triumph of bis rival, takes it in his head to write are desirous of marrying Emilia, the daughter of

a note to Dorimon, to forewarn him that the first Dorimon, a very rich man, of an original cha wbich will present himself to marry his daughracter, who dwells in a chateau at abont six ter, is an impostor that seeks to deceive him. leagues from Lyons. Dorimon, persuaded that For two louis, a servant, belonging to M. Rapi. chance will befriend bim more than prudence, is

nier, takes upon himself to deliver this note inresolved to give his daughter to himn who shall mediately; and that he may arrive the quicker, arrive the first at the chateng. The two officers, he leaps out of the window. who are rivals, without ceasing to be friends, in The two officers, each seated in an elbow formed of the wbimsical intention of Dorimon, | chair, try to obtain a little sleep. The footboy agree between them, on their word of honour, to places himself between them; he communes with set off together at six in the evening, and in a himself, be tries the weight of the two purses he post-chaise. At the same time, while they pro has received, and knows not which of the two mise to proceed honourably, according to the friends he had best hetray: he is very much in. laws of war, they do not deem it unlawful to clined to favour Dorval; hut Berville, who over. bare recourse to stratagem.

hears bim talking to bimself, gains the balance Berrille is frank, but heedless; he only resorts on bis side by putting another porse into his lo marriage, as the means whereby he may get pocket. The footboy seems to yield to so weighty rid of bis creditors. Dorval is really in love ; a consideration ; but through a piece of treach. it is, therefore, easily discovered that Dorval will ery, which is not sufficiently explained as to the be snccessful : but, to obtain the preference, he motive, he whispers confidentially to Berville musi arrive first at the chateau ; interest travels that the house he is now in is M. Dorimon's cha. as quick as love; how most each of these rivals teau, who is playing the tarce of taking his proceed, to gain the priority?

stewari's name: that M. Rapinier's daughter is A footbay is the proper instrument, according the true Emily that he is to marry; and, in conto the opinions of Berville and Dorral, to ensure sequence, it is his interest to let Dorvul yo, who, the victory. The footboy, finding a two-fold inihus abandoning the chateau, wouid inevitably opportunity of euriching bimself, and who, to lose the lady. Berville suffers himseli' to be double conscience, will not slip obtaining a persuaded, and throws binrself back in tis elbow

No. 115.-Vol. XVIII.

Aa

186

VARIETIES CRITICAL, LITERARY, AND HISTORICAL.

a

chair, pretending to fall asleep. The perfidions eighteen years, in disgnise, a wandering life, James wakes Dorval, who was actually in a sound solely occupied with watching over Charles, sleep, and tells him the trick he has played his whose life is threatened by Lerac, because it master, begging bim to go directly to M. Dori. stands in his way against his taking possession mon's. Dorval does not wait to be twice bidden;

of his mother's property. he goes out, after having shut up his friend and The nncle finds out that his nephew, under the his faithful valet together. Berrille soon dis name of Charles, has found an asylum in his covers that he is imposed upon, and he sets off castle; the chief end of his journey is to get rid for the chateau, where Dorval has been before of him by assassination, and he employs in the hand with him.

execution of this atrocious design, an agent . The fatal, pote has operated in his disfavour: named Robert, who, though he is made out as Dorimon takes him for a cheat, who has assumed

odious as possible, is not the least comic characthe name of Dorval, and he consigns him to an ter in the piece. This unfortunate Robert never apartment in the chateau. Berville, on the con- speaks, except by signs and monosyllables; in trary, who bad erery apparent reason to believe the first act he utters only one word, and this himself vanquished, is very much astonished at

word is foolish enough, for it reveals the secret the favourable reception that is given him. The transaction be is employed in, and throws a light marriage contract is drawn up, and he already on the mysterious intrigue, and discovers the holds the pen to sign it, when, by the address of || dénouement. the footboy, Dorval appears ; Berville calling

Robert, to gain the thousand louis that he has him by his name, convinces M. Dorimon of his

so awkwardly announced that he is to receive error: and the undeceived parent gives his

from Lerac, places himself in ambuscade, with a daughter to Dorval, as The First Comer.

gamekeeper, in a narrow path, through wbich The music is by a young composer; but Charles is expected to pass. Five or six tonnds it is highly pleasing: the English servant,

of firing are heard, and it is supposed that which the French call jockey (very unlike

Charles is no more ; but the gamekeeper and

Robert, equally awkward, have not hit their vic. a jockey, in fact, only a smart postboy and

tim, and their firing has no other effect than to footboy conjoined), is well played; but the dissolve a few snowballs—that is to say, a few actor is very deficient in his English smat balls of reeds, covered with white cloth, which terings.

were thrown from the top of the centre arch, THEATRE DE LA Porte ST. MARTIN. over a slope, like those of the Montagnes BeauSketch of La Cabane de Montainard; a

jon. melo-drama, in three acts:

After this piece of stage effect, Robert and the

Baron confer on some new plan of assassination, The scene of this piece is laid in Auvergne, and the project is simple enough ; it is to stab at the foot of those mountains, whose tremendous Charles in ibe night, in his bed. Alarmed by height, and the continual snows wherewith they the event of the evening, Amelia, who dreads are covered, have gained them the appellation some fresh attempt, locks up her lover, and takes of the French Alps. The Baron de Lerac, a away the key of his apartment. Lerac and Remonster of cruelty and dissimulation, has just bert arrive in the dark, and are about to enter taken possession of a newly-acquired castle ; and, the pavilion in which Charles reposes; but, staat the opening of the drama, is dwelling there tioned at the door, they find Christopher and with his daughter Amelia, who has arrived there | Dolzan, who, each with a pistol in his hand, before him. Some little time before the arrival oblige them to retreat. The author bas 'not exof the Baron, a young man named Charles, and plained how Dolzan becomes acqnainted, with Christopher, an honest brazier, whose son Charles the designs of his brother-in-law, Charles, bow. is supposed to be, have been saved from the fatalever, escapes this second peril; he escapes from consequences of an avalanche through an old the castle with his father aud Christopher, and in invalid, whose cottage, or hut (cabane), gives the third act they meet together in the hut of the the title to the piece; this hut stands near the old invalid. castle of Monsieur de Lerac. Charles falls in Labrèche has served under the command, and love with the young lady, and Amelia feels the same tender sentiments with which she has in his life in battle : he bas heard of the sentence

in the same company with Dolzan, who had saved spired this interesting youth : now it must be of death being pronounced against his Captain, known, tbat, Charles is the son of a Captain Dol- and, feeling assured of his innocence, he concan and a sister of the Baran's. This shocking cludes that he could only have been condemned Baron, in order to appropriate to bimself an im through the deposition of false witnesses.mense fortune bequeathed to his sister, has found Struck with this idea, and animated by a just means to cause her death as she gave birth to gratitude, he finds ont these false witnesses, and, Charles; he had, besides, power sufficient to get by several blows of his sabre, he makes them rehis brother-in-law, Dolzan, sentepoed to death ; tract their depositions, and sign their recantawho, compelled to conceal hipiself, bas lived I tion. He possesses these important documents,

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