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CONTENTS.
INTRODUCTION.
Personal Sketch.-Highland Ancestors.-Family Traditions.-Grandfather removes
to the Lowlands.-Parents.-Early Labors and Efforts.-Evening School.-Love
of Reading.-Religious Impressions.-Medical Education.-Youthful Travels.-
Geology.-Mental Discipline.-Study in Glasgow.-London Missionary Society.-
Native Village.—Medical Diploma.-Theological Studies.-Departure for Africa.
-No Claim to Literary Accomplishments
CHAPTER I.
....Page 1
The Bakwain Country.-Study of the Language.-Native Ideas regarding Comets.
-Mabótsa Station.-A Lion Encounter.-Virus of the Teeth of Lions.-Names
of the Bechuana Tribes.-Sechéle.-His Ancestors.-Obtains the Chieftainship.
-His Marriage and Government.-The Kotla.—First public Religious Services.
-Sechele's Questions.-He Learns to Read.-Novel mode for Converting his
Tribe.-Surprise at their Indifference.-Polygamy.-Baptism of Sechele.-Oppo-
sition of the Natives.-Purchase Land at Chonuáne.-Relations with the People.
-Their Intelligence.- Prolonged Drought.-Consequent Trials.-Rain-medi-
cine. God's Word blamed.-Native Reasoning.-Rain-maker.-Dispute between
Rain Doctor and Medical Doctor.-The Hunting Hopo.-Salt or animal Food a
necessary of Life.-Duties of a Missionary.....
CHAPTER II.
The Boers.-Their Treatment of the Natives-Seizure of native Children for
Slaves.-English Traders.-Alarm of the Boers.-Native Espionage.-The Tale
of the Cannon.-The Boers threaten Sechele.-In violation of Treaty, they stop
English Traders and expel Missionaries.-They attack the Bakwains.-Their
Mode of Fighting.-The Natives killed and the School-children carried into
Slavery.-Destruction of English Property.-African Housebuilding and House-
keeping.-Mode of Spending the Day.-Scarcity of Food.-Locusts.-Edible
Frogs.-Scavenger Beetle.-Continued Hostility of the Boers.-The Journey
north.-Preparations.-Fellow-travelers.-The Kalahari Desert.-Vegetation.-
Watermelons.-The Inhabitants.-The Bushmen. Their nomade Mode of
Life.-Appearance.-The Bakalahári.-Their Love for Agriculture and for do-
mestic Animals.-Timid Character.-Mode of obtaining Water.-Female Water-
suckers.-The Desert.-Water hidden.....................
CHAPTER III.
35
Departure from Kolobeng, 1st June, 1849.-Companions.-Our Route.-Abund-
ance of Grass.-Serotli, a Fountain in the Desert.-Mode of digging Wells.-
The Eland.-Animals of the Desert.-The Hyæna.-The Chief Sekomi.-
Dangers. The wandering Guide.-Cross Purposes.-Slow Progress.-Want of
Water.-Capture of a Bushwoman.-The Salt-pan at Nchokotsa.-The Mirage.
-Reach the River Zouga.-The Quakers of Africa.-Discovery of Lake Ngami,
1st August, 1849.-Its Extent.-Small Depth of Water.-Position as the Reser-
voir of a great River System.-The Bamangwato and their Chief.-Desire to
visit Sebituane, the Chief of the Makololo.-Refusal of Lechulatebe to furnish
us with Guides.-Resolve to return to the Cape.-The Banks of the Zouga.-
Pitfalls. Trees of the District.-Elephants.-New Species of Antelope.-Fish
in the Zouga ......... Page 61
CHAPTER IV.
Leave Kolobeng again for the Country of Sebituane.-Reach the Zouga.-The
Tsetse.-A Party of Englishmen.-Death of Mr. Rider.-Obtain Guides.-Chil-
dren fall sick with Fever.-Relinquish the Attempt to reach Sebituane.-Mr.
Oswell's Elephant-hunting.-Return to Kolobeng.-Make a third Start thence.
-Reach Nchokotsa.-Salt-pans.- Links," or Springs.-Bushmen.-Our Guide
Shobo.-The Banajóa.—An ugly Chief.-The Tsetse.-Bite fatal to domestic
Animals, but harmless to wild Animals and Man.-Operation of the Poison.-
Losses caused by it.-The Makololo.-Our Meeting with Sebituane.-Sketch of
his Career. His Courage and Conquests.-Manoeuvres of the Batōka.-He out-
wits them.-His Wars with the Matebele.-Predictions of a native Prophet.—
Successes of the Makololo.-Renewed Attacks of the Matebele.-The Island of
Loyélo.-Defeat of the Matebele.-Sebituane's Policy.-His Kindness to Stran-
gers and to the Poor.-His sudden Illness and Death.-Succeeded by his Daugh-
ter. Her Friendliness to us.-Discovery, in June, 1851, of the Zambesi flowing
in the Centre of the Continent.-Its Size.-The Mambári.-The Slave-trade.-
Determine to send Family to England.-Return to the Cape in April, 1852.—
Safe Transit through the Caffre Country during Hostilities.-Need of a "Spe-
cial Correspondent."-Kindness of the London Missionary Society.-Assistance
afforded by the Astronomer Royal at the Cape....
CHAPTER V.
88
Start in June, 1852, on the last and longest Journey from Cape Town.-Compan-
ions.-Wagon-traveling.-Physical Divisions of Africa.-The Eastern, Central,
and Western Zones.-The Kalahari Desert.—Its Vegetation.-Increasing Value
of the Interior for Colonization.-Our Route.-Dutch Boers.-Their Habits.-
Sterile Appearance of the District. - Failure of Grass.- Succeeded by other
Plants.-Vines.-Animals.-The Boers as Farmers.-Migration of Springbucks.
-Wariness of Animals.-The Orange River.-Territory of the Griquas and
Bechuanas.-The Griquas.-The Chief Waterboer.-His wise and energetic
Government. His Fidelity.-Ill-considered Measures of the Colonial Govern-
ment in regard to Supplies of Gunpowder.-Success of the Missionaries among
the Griquas and Bechuanas.-Manifest Improvement of the native Character.-
Dress of the Natives.-A full-dress Costume.-A Native's Description of the Na-
tives.-Articles of Commerce in the Country of the Bechuanas.-Their Unwil-
lingness to learn, and Readiness to criticise......
108
CHAPTER VI.
........
Kuruman. Its fine Fountain.-Vegetation of the District.-Remains of ancient
Forests.-Vegetable Poison.-The Bible translated by Mr. Moffat.-Capabilities
of the Language.—Christianity among the Natives.-The Missionaries should
extend their Labors more beyond the Cape Colony.-Model Christians.—Dis-
-
xiii
graceful Attack of the Boers on the Bakwains.-Letter from Sechele.-Details
of the Attack.-Numbers of School-children carried away into Slavery.-De-
struction of House and Property at Kolobeng.-The Boers vow Vengeance against
me.-Consequent Difficulty of getting Servants to accompany me on my Jour-
ney.-Start in November, 1852.—Meet Sechele on his way to England to obtain
Redress from the Queen.-He is unable to proceed beyond the Cape.-Meet
Mr. Macabe on his Return from Lake Ngami.-The hot Wind of the Desert.—
Electric State of the Atmosphere. — Flock of Swifts.-Reach Litubaruba. —
The Cave Lepelole.-Superstitions regarding it.-Impoverished State of the
Bakwains.-Retaliation on the Boers.-Slavery.-Attachment of the Bechu-
anas to Children. - Hydrophobia unknown. -Diseases of the Bakwains few
in number. — Yearly Epidemics. - Hasty Burials. — Ophthalmia. — Native
Doctors.- Knowledge of Surgery at a very low Ebb.- Little Attendance
given to Women at their Confinements.-The "Child Medicine."- Salu-
brity of the Climate well adapted for Invalids suffering from pulmonary Com-
plaints.........
CHAPTER VII.
....Page 124
Departure from the Country of the Bakwains.-Large black Ant.-Land Tor-
toises.-Diseases of wild Animals.-Habits of old Lions-Cowardice of the
Lion.—Its Dread of a Snare.—Major Vardon's Note.-The Roar of the Lion re-
sembles the Cry of the Ostrich.-Seldom attacks full-grown Animals.-Buffaloes
and Lions.—Mice.-Serpents.-Treading on one.-Venomous and harmless Va-
rieties. Fascination.-Sekomi's Ideas of Honesty.-Ceremony of the Sechu for
Boys.-The Boyale for young Women.-Bamangwato Hills.-The Unicorn's
Pass.-The Country beyond.—Grain.-Scarcity of Water.-Honorable Conduct
of English Gentlemen.-Gordon Cumming's hunting Adventures.-A Word of
Advice for young Sportsmen.-Bushwomen drawing Water.-Ostrich.-Silly
Habit.-Paces.-Eggs.-Food....................
148
CHAPTER VIII.
Effects of Missionary Efforts.-Belief in the Deity.Ideas of the Bakwains on Re-
ligion.-Departure from their Country.-Salt-pans.-Sour Curd.-Nchokotsa.—
Bitter Waters.-Thirst suffered by the wild Animals.-Wanton Cruelty in Hunt-
ing.-Ntwetwe.-Mowana-trees.-Their extraordinary Vitality.-The Mopané-
tree.-The Morala.-The Bushmen.-Their Superstitions.-Elephant-hunting.—
Superiority of civilized over barbarous Sportsmen.-The Chief Kaisa.-His Fear
of Responsibility.-Beauty of the Country at Unku.-The Mohonono Bush.—
Severe Labor in cutting our Way.-Party seized with Fever.-Escape of our
Cattle.-Bakwain Mode of recapturing them.-Vagaries of sick Servants.-Dis-
covery of grape-bearing Vines.-An Ant-eater.-Difficulty of passing through
the Forest.-Sickness of my Companion.-The Bushmen.-Their Mode of de-
stroying Lions.-Poisons.-The solitary Hill.-A picturesque Valley.—Beauty
of the Country.-Arrive at the Sanshureh River. -The flooded Prairies. -A
pontooning Expedition.-A night Bivouac.-The Chobe.-Arrive at the Village
of Moremi.-Surprise of the Makololo at our sudden Appearance.-Cross the
Chobe on our way to Linyanti......... 175
CHAPTER IX.
Reception at Linyanti.—The court Herald.-Sekeletu obtains the Chieftainship
from his Sister.-Mpepe's Plot.-Slave-trading Mambari.—Their sudden Flight.
-Sekeletu narrowly escapes Assassination.-Execution of Mpepe.-The Courts
of Law.-Mode of trying Offenses.-Sekeletu's Reason for not learning to read
the Bible.-The Disposition made of the Wives of a deceased Chief.-Makololo
Women.--They work but little.-Employ Serfs.-Their Drink, Dress, and Orna-
ments.-Public Religious Services in the Kotla.—Unfavorable Associations of the
place.-Native Doctors.-Proposals to teach the Makololo to read.-Sekeletu's
Present.-Reason for accepting it.—Trading in Ivory.—Accidental Fire.-Pres-
ents for Sekeletu.-Two Breeds of native Cattle.-Ornamenting the Cattle.-The
Women and the Looking-glass.-Mode of preparing the Skins of Oxen for Man-
tles and for Shields.-Throwing the Spear........
CHAPTER X.
..Page 196
The Fever.-Its Symptoms.-Remedies of the native Doctors.-Hospitality of Se-
keletu and his People.-One of their Reasons for Polygamy.-They cultivate
largely. The Makalaka or subject Tribes.-Sebituane's Policy respecting them.
-Their Affection for him.-Products of the Soil.-Instrument of Culture.-The
Tribute.-Distributed by the Chief.-A warlike Demonstration.-Lechulatebe's
Provocations.-The Makololo determine to punish him.—The Bechuanas.—
Meaning of the Term.-Three Divisions of the great Family of South Afri-
cans...
212
CHAPTER XI.
Departure from Linyanti for Sesheke.-Level Country.-Ant-hills.-Wild Date-
trees.-Appearance of our Attendants on the March.-The Chief's Guard.-They
attempt to ride on Ox-back.-Vast Herds of the new Antelopes, Leches, and Na-
kongs. The native way of hunting them.-Reception at the Villages.-Presents
of Beer and Milk.-Eating with the Hand.-The Chief provides the Oxen for
Slaughter. Social Mode of Eating.-The Sugar-cane.-Sekeletu's novel Test
of Character.-Cleanliness of Makololo Huts.-Their Construction and Appear-
ance.-The Beds.-Cross the Leeambye.-Aspect of this part of the Country.—
The small Antelope Tianyane unknown in the South.-Hunting on foot.-An
Eland......
221
CHAPTER XII.
Procure Canoes and ascend the Leeambye.-Beautiful Islands.-Winter Land-
scape.-Industry and Skill of the Banyeti.-Rapids.-Falls of Gonye.-Tradi-
tion.-Annual Inundations.-Fertility of the great Barotse Valley.-Execution
of two Conspirators.-The Slave-dealer's Stockade.-Naliele, the Capital, built
on an artificial Mound.-Santuru, a great Hunter.-The Barotse Method of com-
memorating any remarkable Event.-Better Treatment of Women. More relig-
ious Feeling. Belief in a future State, and in the Existence of spiritual Beings.
-Gardens.-Fish, Fruit, and Game.-Proceed to the Limits of the Barotse
Country. Sekeletu provides Rowers and a Herald.-The River and Vicinity.-
Hippopotamus-hunters.-No healthy Location.-Determine to go to Loanda.-
Buffaloes, Elands, and Lions above Libonta.-Interview with the Mambari.-
Two Arabs from Zanzibar.-Their Opinion of the Portuguese and the English.-
Reach the Town of Ma-Sekeletu.-Joy of the People at the first Visit of their
Chief.-Return to Sesheke.-Heathenism...... 231
Preliminary Arrangements for the Journey.-A Picho.-Twenty-seven Men ap-
pointed to accompany me to the West.-Eagerness of the Makololo for direct
Trade with the Coast.-Effects of Fever.-A Makololo Question.-The lost Jour
nal.-Reflections.-The Outfit for the Journey.-11th November, 1853, leave Lin-
yanti, and embark on the Chobe.-Dangerous Hippopotami.-Banks of Chobe.-
Trees. The Course of the River.-The Island Mparia at the Confluence of the
Chobe and the Leeambye.-Anecdote.-Ascend the Leeambye.—A Makalaka
Mother defies the Authority of the Makololo Head Man at Sesheke.—Punishment
of Thieves.-Observance of the new Moon.-Public Addresses at Sesheke.-At-
tention of the People.-Results.-Proceed up the River.-The Fruit which yields
Nux vomica.-Other Fruits.-The Rapids.-Birds.-Fish.-Hippopotami and
their Young....
CHAPTER XIV.
Page 247
Increasing Beauty of the Country.-Mode of spending the Day.-The People and
the Falls of Gonye-A Makololo Foray.-A second prevented, and Captives de-
livered up.-Politeness and Liberality of the People.-The Rains.-Present of
Oxen. The fugitive Barotse.-Sekobinyane's Misgovernment.-Bee-eaters and
other Birds.-Fresh-water Sponges.-Current.-Death from a Lion's Bite at
Libonta. Continued Kindness.-Arrangements for spending the Night during
the Journey.-Cooking and Washing.-Abundance of animal Life.-Different
Species of Birds.-Water-fowl.-Egyptian Geese.-Alligators.-Narrow Escape
of one of my Men.-Superstitious Feelings respecting the Alligator.--Large
Game.-The most vulnerable Spot.-Gun Medicine.-A Sunday.-Birds of
Song.-Depravity; its Treatment.-Wild Fruits.-Green Pigeons.-Shoals of
Fish.-Hippopotami....... 265
CHAPTER XV.
Message to Masiko, the Barotse Chief, regarding the Captives.-Navigation of the
Leeambye.-Capabilities of this District.—The Leeba.-Flowers and Bees.-
Buffalo-hunt.-Field for a Botanist.—Young Alligators; their savage Nature.—
Suspicion of the Balonda.-Sekelénke's Present.-A Man and his two Wives.-
Hunters.- Message from Manénko, a female Chief.- Mambari Traders. - A
Dream.-Sheakóndo and his People.-Teeth-filing.-Desire for Butter.-Inter-
view with Nyamoána, another female Chief.-Court Etiquette.-Hair versus
Wool.-Increase of Superstition.-Arrival of Manenko; her Appearance and
Husband.-Mode of Salutation.-Anklets.-Embassy, with a Present from Ma-
siko. - Roast Beef. - Manioc. - Magic Lantern. Manenko an accomplished
Scold: compels us to wait.-Unsuccessful Zebra-hunt......
CHAPTER XVI.
285
Nyamoana's Present.-Charms.-Manenko's pedestrian Powers.-An Idol.-Ba-
londa Arms.-Rain. - Hunger. - Palisades.-Dense Forests.- Artificial Bee-
hives.-Mushrooms.-Villagers lend the Roofs of their Houses.-Divination and
Idols.-Manenko's Whims.-A night Alarm.-Shinte's Messengers and Present.
-The proper Way to approach a Village.-A Merman.-Enter Shinte's Town:
its Appearance.-Meet two half-caste Slave-traders.-The Makololo scorn them.
-The Balonda real Negroes.-Grand Reception from Shinte. - His Kotla.
Ceremony of Introduction.-The Orators. - Women. - Musicians and Musical