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The cradle itself, moreover, in its infant state, was by no means a bed of roses, before experience and practice had vouched for its security; and it is but fair to allow to Captain Evans, who was the first to embark and ferry himself over, something of the "robur et æs triplex," assigned by Horace to the man who first ventured his person on the wide seas, in the crazy barks of ancient times.

Confidence in its stability, however, soon removed all reasonable fears; and as one of the passengers who tried it in this its early day, I can perfectly recollect that even the first moment of its launching from terra firma, was a change much for the better, compared with the headlong scramble down certain parts of the precipice leading to its point of suspension. In the meantime, workmen, lowered by ropes, were constantly employed in forming a more commodious staircase on the broad face of the rock, from which, in January 1809, a shorter passage, 120 feet in length, was effected. Still, however, by means of a cradle, though of a somewhat improved structure, which remained as the sole direct mode of communication for five years, during which time no accident occurred to any living being, Captain Evans' dog excepted, who one day, in his haste to secure a passage, at the moment of the cradle's departure, sprung forward unsuccessfully, and was precipitated into the waters below, from whence, as the sea was comparatively smooth, he was rescued without receiving the slightest injury. Two passengers were the legal complement of the limited dimensions of this carriage; but occasionally three, if not four, contrived to pack themselves on board. It was on one of these occasions, the inmates being all females, during a heavy gale of wind, what with the lateral pressure of the whirling eddies, combined with the extra gravitating weight of the overloaded vehicle, it so happened that the workmen were for a time unable to haul it forward on the strained cordage, leaving the ladies for a time to enjoy their leisure, and meditate upon the scenery, heightened by the howling of the wind, the vibratory motion of the cordage, and the roaring of the waves below them.

To this cradle, at the expiration of five years, succeeded a regular foot

bridge, of the most simple, primitive, and picturesque construction. Strong cables were thrown across, over which planks were laid, and on either side a light balustrade of stout net-work was raised, the whole secured, and the vibratory motion in part counteracted, by long guys, made fast to appropriate points on either side. Over this, those possessing tolerable nerves might trip comfortably enough, for there was no real danger, though to some the passage was still a matter of hesitation. But whether from the march of intellect wishing to meet the advancement of the times, or whether to rival in its way the gigantic undertaking over the Menai on the opposite side of the island, the bridge which succeeded the primitive cradle has itself been superseded by an elegant structure on the true scientific principles of permanent suspension bridges, over which a regiment of horse might pass.

But to return to the light-house. The preparatory operations having, as has been stated, commenced in May, 1808, and the foundation of the building laid in the following August, so rapidly were the works carried on, that, on the evening of the 9th February, 1809, the light was exhibited for the first time. The lantern, in which it is placed, is elevated above the sea about 200 feet, the summit level of the island being 140 feet. The reflectors cover three triangular surfaces, which revolve by clock-work machinery, wound up every nine hours, giving, in order to distinguish the light from that of the Skerries, a full face every two minutes, which may be distinctly seen from a ship's deck, at the distance of about nine leagues. tower is a substantial stone-building, with walls at the lower part five feet thick; but, solid as was this foundation, it was found on trial not to be sufficiently dense to keep out the pelting of the winter, gales, when the waves bursting upwards, dashed their spray with such inconceivable force, that the water actually filtered through, and kept the interior in a constant state of moisture; so much so, as to excite an apprehension that it might seriously injure the masonry. variety of remedies were suggested, and the most experienced opinions taken; copper bolts were inserted, on which a casing was to be made fast. Persons were dispatched from Lon

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don with a mixture of pulverised iron, Parker's cement, ashes, and sand. With this composition, every crevice and interstice was carefully filled, and the whole smoothed down to an uniform surface, which set, and became firm as stone itself; but all to no purpose, for, to the general astonishment, water was still forced through, and the interior walls were as damp and trickling as ever. Captain Evans went to London, and reported the case to the Trinity-house Board; small slates were then recommended, as an additional casing; but the blast of the first hurricane ripped them away like shreds. In this dilemma, when, in the multitude of counsellors, no wisdom had been found, an old carpenter, employed in repairing a window-frame and door case, which he knew to have been set up above 40 years, at a mansionhouse in the neighbourhood, remarked that every part of the casing below ground was in a state of decay, whereas the other parts, which had been coated with a mixture of painting oil, white lead, and sand, remained as sound as ever. Happening at this juncture to meet Captain Evans, he mentioned the fact, which thus accidentally suggested a similar application at the light-house.

Accordingly, a mixture was prepared, consisting of sand from Port Davaich, free from sea-water, which, after being thoroughly dried in an oven, was well sifted. Two men were then employed to paint as far as they could reach, with a mixture of white lead and oil; and then over this glutinous surface, the sand was dashed on, and left to dry and harden for five or six days, after which the process was repeated; when, to the surprise of all, two coats were found fully to answer the purpose; for since that time, the water has been effectually excluded, and not a drop of moisture ever penetrating within.

Exclusive of this tower, there are two dwellings for the accommodation of the light-keepers and their families, and another, on a small scale, fitted up by Captain Evans for his own use, when detained by business on his frequent visits to the island. And thus a spot, hitherto rented at L.1, 1s. for the summer-pasture of a few sheep, on its scanty patches of grass and thrift, became at once an object of interest and importance to

the public in general. To the geologist and naturalist, it must, indeed, have been always so.

The whole coast partakes more or less of a micaceous schistose character, traversed here and there, as may be seen at Port Dafaich, about three miles east of the South Stack, by a vein of trap, in itself a sufficient indication, that indirect igneous, if not immediate volcanic causes, have been no slumbering agents in the formation of this range of coast. Of its having been upheaved or severely compressed by some adequate force from an original position in the earth's crust, a glance upon the precipice fronting the island, affords undispu table proof; and that a great portion of this stratification was at one period in a semi-fluid or pliant state, must be admitted to be equally unquestionable. I can nowhere recollect such a series of fantastic festoonings and twistings, as the face of the rock presents, a few yards on the right of the mainland gateway, opening upon the suspension bridge. I can compare it to nothing more analogous than rolls of ribbon uniformly plaited, resting on an uneven irregular foundation. A little further, on the other hand, the rock changes not only its integral character, but its stratification; assuming, instead of the horizontal, a perpendicular form, exhibiting finer and bolder, though perhaps less curious, features, than its intimate neighbour, on which it immediately impinges. Thus, the Parliament-house cavern seems to have been formed by the falling in of fragments disturbed and disjointed by a sudden change from a horizontal to a perpendicular stratification; when, at the period of its rising, it shoved aside and elbowed away the more yielding masses of the tortuous schist. An additional proof that this unbending obdurate mass was the aggressor, may, I think, be inferred from the shattered face of the elevated surface, forming the highest peak of the mountain, rising far above the surrounding and more decidedly micaceous schistose beds, exhibiting a dismal scene of fraction, dislocation, and of trituration, (if the term may be applied to fragments of many tons in weight,) as if the cumulus had contended with sturdy obstacles in its process of elevation. An experienced observer will require no directions to detect various points of

contact between rival masses; but there is one within a few yards of the spot on which he first treads upon the island, after crossing the bridge, so well adapted for observation, that it may be allowable to point it out. On proceeding towards the light-house, he will perceive a deep indenture very conspicuous on the south-east side, where the sea rolls in, forming the gulf before mentioned, into which the natural tunnel opens; proceeding to the extremity of the promontory, immediately fronting the abrupt face of the opposite side of this gulf, he will trace a marked difference in the texture of the arm on which he stands, and that directly facing him; the one being in part more massive, while the other inclines to the micaceous schis tose form-and on following the two curves of the gulf to their point of junction, he will readily remark, that, although in very close contact, they are, nevertheless, not identically the same stratum; and possibly the intermediate chasm may have been occasioned by the rupture which took place in their component parts at the moment (and if it was the work of a moment-what a moment!) of collision-when these mighty rocks rose from the sea, grinding and grating the one against the other.

Thus much of the geological attractions. As for the naturalist, in the scene which appears in all its feathered glory before him, he will find certain species, which can nowhere be contemplated with such ease and satis faction, as at the points of this projecting promontory. There have I sat, and could have remained for hours, watching these sea-birds, and listening to their wild cry, mingling with the hoarse roar of the waves lashing the rocks below. The perpendicular faces of this little gulf are intersected by innumerable fissures, crevices, ledges, and shelves, admirably adapted for birds requiring these accommodations; and here accordingly an army of razorbills (alea torda) and guillemots (colymbus troile) had taken up their position, almost, though not entirely, to the exclusion of the gulls. And therein, as if conscious of their safety, it being an inviolable rule never to disturb them, they were carrying on their usual occupations with the most perfect unconcern, permitting one to enter fully into their domestic arrange

ments. Closely jammed in a lateral niche, just opposite, sat 72 guillemots, all bowing their heads at each other, with a gravity and solemnity unaccountable. On they went for above a quarter of an hour, without intermission, each nodding slowly to his neighbour, who, with equal composure, nodded as slowly in return. Now and then, from another ledge, one or two would come in from a short excursion, and, jostling the whole line, send a dozen or two backwards over the edge, croaking disapprobation at the intruders, who took the vacant places, utterly disregarding the confusion they had caused. It was impossible at first to divest oneself of an involuntary shudder, as they slided headlong or backwards into the abyss, their squab plump bodies supported by such comparatively disproportioned wings. I felt at every moment a sort of rising cry, "Ah, poor bird, nothing can save him! he must be killed." When flapping his little pinions, away he went, cleaving the air, making his circuit of a mile, skimming now and then over the sea, but not touching the waves, and then returning to his friends. Amidst the myriads of old ones, I looked in vain for any thing like a corresponding number of young; I could scarcely see a single individual. It is true, that the females only produce one egg; but still that could not account for the paucity of progeny. I suspect from certain sympathetic croakings uttered by the old ones, when turning their heads towards little chinks, the recesses of which were invisible, that the infant birds were kept in the background; and well they are so, or otherwise, in the constant disturbances, and tumblings over, that take place, they must inevitably break their necks in the confusion.

But a greater surprise was excited by perceiving in the midst of the bustle a solitary egg here and there lying on the bare rock, within a few inches of the edge. By what care or instinct is it preserved from falling? It has been said, that if they are removed by the human hand, it is impossible, or at least extremely difficult, to replace them in their former steady situation; whence it has been inferred that they are glued by some secreted liquid to the rock. One of our best ornithologists, Montagu, on good evidence, doubts the

fact, but still the mystery is great, if not greater; there they are in a most hazardous situation, but they are preserved-by what means? How many are the things which our philosophy cannot fathom! The razor-bills were by no means so numerous as the guillemots, and, generally speaking, did not mingle with them; they seemed to hold themselves apart as the better bird of the two, peering at one another, and pluming their coats with a sort of dandy consciousness of their superior brilliancy and glossiness. But both agreed in keeping aloof from me; there was nothing like intrusion on the spot I had selected for observing them. Not so the gulls, at least the Larus canus, or common gull. They were all familiarity; some flew so near, that I could almost feel the fanning of their wings; while others settled within a few yards, conning me over with a vacant simple stare, uttering their plaintive, melancholy, imploring sort of note. While on the other hand, a pair or two of the large black-beeked gulls (Larus marinus) now and then sailed by, and then alighting on an inaccessible ledge, reconnoitred me with a scrutinizing look from their keen, sus picious, penetrating eye, expressing a very different language. The former, barely opening their slender beaks sufficiently to give vent to a gentle cry, seemed to say, "We are poor harmless creatures, do not hurt us." The latter, on the other hand, the moment they had perched, opened theirs as wide as possible, uttering, at the same time, a loud hearty scream, ab imo pectore, as much as to say, "This is our territory; you have no business here; we wish you would go away." Not far from the resting-place of this pair of blackbeeked gulls, a pair of the common sort had established themselves on a bit of a plateau that made one giddy to look at, and quite tremble for the fate of their sole offspring, a little grey down-covered toddler, with about half an inch between his toes and destruction, for a breath would have blown him over; but there he stood quite at his ease, so well tutored apparently, that when the old ones successively returned with food, he was indifference itself. No tremulous movement of his flappers, no impatient stretchings of neck, or gaping of mouth, like other young birds. I cannot conceive a more melancholy advance from infancy to maturity, than this youngster's; it

being evident, from the moment of his quitting his egg-shell to the present hour, the choice of standing on his right or left leg, or a cautious putting of one before the other, to the extent of a few inches, was the only source of amusement or variety within his reach. It was curious to observe the proceedings of many of the older birds. The din was incessant, and some seemed quite exhausted with screaming, or hearing others scream; for I could perceive them retiring from the main body to rest a while in perfect silence. Now and then, indeed, as if by mutual consent, the uproar entirely ceased, and the whole body settled on a rocky inclined plain, interspersed with grass, of some extent, just below the lightkeepers' dwellings, which formed their grand nursery establishment; for there, in every stage of growth, hundreds of young ones were moving about; I conclude that each parent had a perfect knowledge of its own nestlings, though, generally speaking, there were no striking symptoms of recognition; apparently, old and young seemed to mingle without much reference to relationship, and a stranger might have supposed that there was a community of offspring. The only sign of attachment I remarked, was, that an old bird would now and then fix its eye in a more pointed manner on some one of these movable puff-balls of downy feathers, and then suddenly opening its mouth, deposit at the feet of the fledgling, a crawful of halfdigested shrimps or soft crabs. Numerous as they are even now, before the erection of the light-house and bridge, these assemblages in the breeding season were tenfold greater. When the works were commenced in the spring of 1808, the unusual appearance of persons on the island, with their operations of blasting, &c. so disturbed the proceedings of the birds who had recently arrived, that with the exception of one solitary pair of gulls, the whole body, including guillemots and razor-bills, took to flight, leaving the intruders in full possession of a spot which they, from time unknown, had occupied by a sort of prescriptive right, although occasionally annoyed by other birds, as well as accidental visitors from the mainland. This solitary pair had taken post on that inaccessible plateau of bare rock where I noticed the single young gull, and seemed to be aware that nothing but shot or

stones could dislodge them. Their determined confidence in the security of their stronghold met with its due reward, orders being issued that none should molest them. The consequence was, that in a short time they became quite familiarized to the noise and bustle, and remained until their young were reared, and in a condition to shift for themselves.

In the ensuing spring, the same pair, as was supposed, retook possession of their old post, and strict orders, as before, were given, on no account to disturb them, and as a further protection, no fire-arms were allowed to be used, and any strangers disregarding these rules were not to be admitted again on the island. In consequence of a rigid attention to these humane regulations the same pair continued for five successive years to visit the same ledge, and rear their young, consisting generally of two, and never exceeding three in number. But although only this single pair were observed to breed on the island, a considerable number at times, as if aware of their security, sought shelter, denied them on the mainland, where, notwithstanding the bare and perpendicular character of the precipices, there was scarcely a spot among the clefts and hollows to which the young men and boys of the neighbourhood did not find their way in search of eggs, for which they found a ready demand.

The main body of gulls at length, finding that these wonted haunts no longer afforded security, and whether taught by the experience of the above pair, or from their own observation, in the spring of the sixth year took refuge in the island, chiefly on the south side, and on the inclined plain before mentioned, where they have remained during the breeding season ever since, and on this spot, in particular, their artless nests are spread in such numbers, that it is difficult at times to avoid treading upon them. It is remarkable, however, that only two pair of the black-beeked gulls returned, and these, according to their usual habits, not only build apart, but never herd with the rest. Neither have the razor-bills and guillemots re-established themselves in the same abundance, or with the same apparent confidence, which may in some degree be accounted for by the parts of the rock most suited to their habits having been more or less used as landing-places.

But although these poor birds have, contrary to the general rule, found a protector in man, they are not entirely without their troubles and annoyances. Certain crows, the light-keepers say, a pair only of one particular species, come at the same time, and build their nest just opposite the Stack, as if for the express purpose of harassing and stealing their eggs. For no sooner do the gulls begin to lay, than these two crows are perpetually on the look-out, frequently hovering over and watching for an opportunity to carry off a prize. The moment the thieves appear, the whole gull colony is in a state of commotion and consternation; those on their nests cowering over their newlaid treasures, while the others, by their screams and menacing attitudes, do their best to frighten and drive the marauders away; but the cunning crows usually gain their point. Watching an opportunity, down they pounce, pierce an egg with their sharp beak, and fly off with it in a trice. The lightkeepers assert, that these crows are of a species known only in Ireland, and never, with the exception of these two individuals, seen in Anglesey; from their description, I have, however, no doubt of its being the hooded or Royston crow (corvus cornix,) well known in many parts of England, and in the north, very destructive to the eggs and young of the red grouse. A curious circumstance fell under the observation of the light-keeper: a pair of these birds had for some years frequented the same spot, when one season the female was shot, and the male almost immediately disappeared, remaining absent for the space of three or four days, when he returned with another partner, and the business of nidification was carried on as before.

The gulls, at this season so numerous on the island and adjacent coast, disperse themselves for half the year, and are never seen congregated in great numbers, except when attracted by shoals of herrings, or some similar cause; but it is positively asserted by the light-keepers, as a very extraor dinary fact, that they all instinctively return to the South Stack on the same night, viz. the 10th February, and retire, with the exception of those that, having been robbed on the main, had resorted to the island to renew the labours of incubation on the night of the 12th August. The keepers state that, in the middle of the former

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