of the habitations being no better than excavations from the rock, and the rest very meanly-built houses. I counted, including both kinds, about fifty: the population inhabiting them could not exceed two hundred.

VALLEY OF HINNOM.

Continuing our route on the southern side of the City, we next entered the Valley of Hinnom; a deep ravine, closed in on the right by the steep acclivity of Mount Zion, and on the left by a line of cliffs more or less elevated. From some point in these cliffs, Tradition relates that the Apostate Betrayer of our Lord sought his desperate end: and the position of the trees, which, in various parts, overhang the brow of the cliff, accords with the common opinion of the manner of his death. In some parts of this ravine, the City is not visible: the reason is, that there is a considerable portion of Mount Zion toward the south-east, which is at present not inclosed within the Walls of the City. This outer part is occupied, by the Burying-place of the Christians, by an Armenian Convent as abovementioned without the walls, and by a very small Turkish Village: the rest of this portion of Mount Zion is arable land, laid out in fields; most remarkably exhibiting, at the present day, the fulfilment of the prophecy uttered first by Micah (Ch. iii. 12); and afterward quoted by Jeremiah (Ch. xxvi. 18), Zion shall be plowed as a field.

We returned, by the Jaffa Gate, about three o'clock in the afternoon, to our Convent. The view of the City on approaching it from the west, from Jaffa, is exceedingly poor. On coming within sight of it, nothing appears to the eye but a fore-ground, running nearly level up to the walls; and these walls

are not distinguished by any appearance of boldness or elegance, but only serve to hide the City from the view. The country all around, at this part, is rocky and rugged.

This excursion, being in several respects perfectly new, was to me most refreshing and delightful; and amply compensated for the inconvenience which we had suffered during the latter part of it, from frequent and heavy showers of rain.

BURIAL-GROUNDS.

I have not mentioned the different Burial-Grounds which we have observed: they are all separate, and are as follows. The Christians bury their dead on Mount Zion: the Turks have a Burying-Ground between the Damascus Gate, and the Gate going out near the Mosque of Omar; another also about a quarter of a mile from the Jaffa Gate, on the wayside going to the Monastery of the Holy Cross : the Jews have their Burying-Ground on the north side of the Valley of Jehoshaphat, over against where the Temple anciently stood. It is the idea of many, that the scene of the Day of Judgment will here take place, according to a well-known interpretation of Joel iii. 11-17; and these children of Abraham seem to have chosen this spot for the repose of their mortal remains, to be ready to rise at the voice of the Judge, and receive the favour promised to their people. The scenery on this side of Jerusalem is peculiarly bold, and well suited to inspire feelings of sublimity and awe.

DISTURBANCES AT BETHLEHEM.

Saturday, Dec. 13, 1823-The day being very stormy, we were obliged to keep at home; which I

much regretted, as it abridged my opportunity of seeing the Jewish Synagogues, as we had appointed to do to-day. I had intended moreover, at all events, going to Bethlehem to-day, if the weather should permit: but, in this also, I was disappointed. The reason of this delay in visiting the place of the Nativity, was, that for several days there has been a bad understanding between the Government of Jerusalem and the Men of Bethlehem. These men are remarkable for their high and independent spirit; and have manifested a resolution not to stoop to the oppressive measures of the new Governor. The Turkish Soldiers quartered upon them having probably behaved with insolence, the Bethlehemites expelled them; and these have been, we hear, sent back with no honour to Damascus: a re-inforcement has arrived, and was yesterday sent to Bethlehem. In case of my going, I should have thrown aside my Oriental dress, and have dressed as an Englishman; which would have, at once, declared me neutral in the existing quarrels of the country. I still cherish the thought of going thither on Monday*.

4

* One of the consequences of the present war between the Governor of Jerusalem and the Men of Bethlehem is, that these Men cannot come to the City to vend their trinkets. There is, at Bethlehem, a considerable manufacture of articles in mother-of-pearl, scollop-shells, &c. on which they engrave, in a rude style, pictures of Scripture History, especially the Crucifixion, and figures of the Virgin Mary and the Saints. Beads, Crosses, &c. are, or rather formerly have been, a great source of trade to these unpolished artisans: these articles, after having been duly blest by the Bishops, and attested as coming from the Holy City, were exported to Europe, where they brought, from superstitious .devotees, no small gain unto the craftsmen. One or two poor women have, however, ventured by stealth, with these articles, into the City; from whom I purchased a few trifles, in consideration of their present poverty. One article which they exhibited was a model in wood, inlaid with ivory, of the Chapel built over the Holy Sepulchre. Of the va

rious

In the afternoon, we had a call from Ysa Petros. We arranged to have Service, the next day, in Italian; that he might unite with us, before my departure, in religious worship.

In the evening the Reverend Mr. Lewis arrived, by way of Ramla. He has spent many days at Damascus, Safet, and Tiberias; and gives an interesting account of the distribution of the Scriptures among Jews and Christians in the various places on

his tour.

ASPECT OF THE SABBATH IN JERUSALEM.

Sunday, Dec. 14, 1823—In the morning, Mr. Fisk, Mr. Lewis, Pappas Ysa Petros, and myself united

rious trinkets which they shewed, no one served better than this to illustrate the expression translated in our English Version, Silver Shrines for Diana: (Acts xix. 24.) The original is vαoùs ágyugoûs and means, Silver Models of the Temple of Diana. Whether made very small, or entirely wrought in silver-or, if larger, inlaid or washed with silver-it is of little moment. In all the Levant, and in Roman-Catholic Countries, the Pagan traffic, so inimitably described by the Prophet Isaiah (See Chapters xl. 19, 20. xli. 6, 7. xliv. 12-17. xlvi. 6) continues in full activity: nor will they be persuaded that this is idolatrous, because the Seventh General Council has declared it to be lawful, and anathematized all those who think the contrary.

Very shortly after the Author left Jerusalem, the matter at issue between the Governor of Jerusalem and the Men of Bethlehem came to a trial. The Governor having interested in his service as many of the neighbouring Arab Sheiks as he could, went out with his forces, and was met in battle by the Bethlehemites. The Men of Bethlehem obtained some advantages, which led to a temporary ac commodation: they were to pay a sum of money to the Governor; and he, on the other hand, was not to quarter soldiers on the town, which had been the principal point at issue. The Bethlehemites, however, fearing a surprise, still continued under arms; and the Governor threatened them, that the Pacha himself of Damascus should come with all his forces, and compel them to admit a Turkish Garrison: but the words of the men of Bethlehem were fiercer than his. A wanton piece of barbarity preceded the battle. A few days before, the Governor's party found a poor old man of Bethlehem labouring in the fields, and shot him; and fixed his head over the Gate of Jerusalem, as if to whet their appetite for carnage.

in Divine Service, in Italian. This is my last of four Sabbaths spent in the Holy City.

There is something very peculiar in the aspect of this day in these parts. We have never as yet had, indeed, occasion to say, that the Adversaries mock at our Sabbaths: but the sensation arising from seeing, that to the Mahomedans and Jews this is a day of work, and that to the bulk of professing Christians it is, alas! a day of more than usual mirth, visiting, and feasting, abates much of that spirit of sacred sympathy which David so touchingly describes-I went up with the MULTITUDE of them that keep holyday. I was glad when they said, Let us go into the house of the Lord! On this very spot, did David once delight in these Sabbatic hours! But what would he think, were his spirit to descend from its eternal rest, to see his strong-hold of Zion dismantled; and his brethren, for whose peace he prayed, broken in pieces by the oppressor? Were Solomon again to walk this earth, and view his unrivalled Temple supplanted by the Mosque of Omar; or could Isaiah know that his evangelic raptures are still unrevealed to multitudes on this Holy Hill of Zion, and that the watchmen who should have kept their stand day and night upon the walls of Jerusalem have long since held their peace and sunk into almost Pagan stupor; or could the first Apostles look round, and ask in this place, Who are they that have kept the faith?-what would be the emotions of their re-embodied spirits! We, so greatly their inferiors-not so devout, nor fervent, nor conversant with Divine mysteries as they-yet feel amazed and utterly down-cast, when we contemplate so many visible marks of departed glory.