DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTH.

195

CHAPTER XV.

DEPARTURE FOR THE SOUTH-ARANJUEZ-DILIGENCESPANISH ROBBER-GERMAN COLONISTS OF THE SIERRA MORENA-CORDOVA-CHAPEL OF MAHOMET-STORY OF A TURKISH CADI.

MUCH as our travellers had found to please them in Madrid, yet the prospect of seeing Seville, and visiting Cordova and Grenada, was still delightful. They were still eager to behold the former scenes of Moorish glory; and they looked forward to the orange-groves of the south, and the far-famed banks of the Guadalquiver, with all the liveliness of youthful imaginations. They passed through the gate of Toledo, and over the magnificent bridge thrown across the scarcely moist channel of the Mançanares, with a smile. All around Madrid the country is a desert, on account of the drought, which presides as the reigning Lares of the place.

The first place of interest at which they arrived was the royal palace of Aranjuez *. Independent of its gardens and scenery this spot is celebrated

Twenty-five miles south of Madrid.

for the abdication of Charles V. In the reign of Ferdinand VI. this palace consisted of little more than the castle. A few small houses, scattered over some uneven ground, were the only lodgings of the ambassadors and attendants of the court. They have now been replaced by regular buildings. The plan of the village of Aranjuez is said to have been obtained from Holland. The principal streets are shaded by a double row of trees, between which runs a river, that keeps them continually fresh. Nothing can exceed the beauty of the royal gardens; and art has converted an uninteresting plain into a spot now rich in verdure and in beauty. The public walk is reported to be four miles in extent, and twice crosses the Tagus; whose waters, formed into cataracts, near the palace, add, by their refreshing murmurs, new charms to the shade of the lofty trees.

Aranjuez has not, like St. Ildefonso, the advantage of lofty mountains; but all the beauty that art could devise, while imitating nature, has been prodigally and successfully bestowed. A per

petual verdure is kept up by perpetual irrigation; and such is the perfection to which this artificial watering has arrived, that to a bunch of fading flowers, a tiny rill can, if required, be in a moment directed. The young people would willingly have lingered another day in this charming scene; but the diligence being engaged to convey them to Cordova, they had no option but to proceed.

SPANISH DILIGENCE.

197

They were not prepared to find this public conveyance so perfectly comfortable as it proved. It was well lined with cushions, roomy, and easy. They had six or seven mules, according to the state of the road. The average speed was seven miles an hour; and the punctuality and civility of the director left nothing to wish for. The whole of the arrangements were infinitely better than any they had seen in France. It stopped at Orcana for the passengers to sup; and when collected round the table, looking with curiosity into each other's faces, as travellers are wont to do, they were struck with the martial appearance of the guard, a remarkably fine man. Amidst all the courtesy of his manner, his eye yet disclosed something of the restless fire of a soldier, on whom the peaceful manners he had adopted did not yet sit easily.

On their return to the carriage, a Spanish gentleman, who had taken the only vacant seat, asked if they knew the history of the guard; and on their replying in the negative, he startled them by saying he was the celebrated robber-chief, Polinario. They looked at each other with astonishment, and their new friend smiled.

"Spain," he said, "is infested with robbers; and all the diligences pay black mail' to them, to insure them against being robbed. These gentlemen are honest knaves, and as long as the stipu

198

HISTORY OF A ROBBER.

lated sum is paid to them, they are perfectly free

from danger."

"But Polinario," said Mr. Delville.

The usual

"His history is a singular one. range of his exploits was the northern parts of the Sierra Morena, and the southern parts of La Mancha; and there he remained in his vocation eleven years. Some little time ago, having received intimation that the archbishop of Gaen would pass the Sierra Morena in his carriage, attended only by his servants, he watched for him, and stopped his reverence. The archbishop delivered his money; but upon Polinario asking his blessing, he remonstrated with him upon the wickedness of his life, and his numerous offences. The robber interrupted him, saying that this advice could be of no use to him, unless the prelate could obtain a pardon for his past life, as otherwise he could not change his mode of living. The archbishop was really a good man, and felt a desire to assist him in procuring a better mode of living. He therefore passed his word that he would obtain for him his majesty's pardon; and Polinario, on his part, pledged himself that he would rob no more. In this state matters remained for ten months; for it took that time before the promised pardon could be obtained; and all that time the penitent was obliged to conceal himself from a pursuit, induced by the reward offered for

HONOUR AMONG THIEVES.

199

his apprehension. The pardon was, however, at last signed, and he had again all the world before him."

"He looks scarcely contented with the change," said Mr. Delville.

"He makes no hesitation in saying, that the promise made to the archbishop, alone prevents him from acting up to his former profession; but that, as that prelate kept his word with him, he will do the same by him."

"There is a good feeling," observed Mr. Delville," in this honourable adherence to a promise; and after a time Polinario may himself find the sweets of it."

They were now travelling, through La Mancha, to the foot of the Sierra Morena. In that country there is nothing to detain the stranger. It has no picturesque beauties, and produces chiefly wine, corn, oil, and saffron. The recollection of Don Quixote gives it a romantic interest; but the young people were not sufficiently acquainted with that work to enter into the associations connected with it. As they advanced into the Sierra Morena, they came to Santa Elena, the village belonging to the new colonists, introduced in the reign of Charles III. Little patches of potatoe and cabbage-land were before the doors: all around there was an air of unusual cultivation and industry; and the houses were filled with the necessary