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were ready, as far as they were able, to answer the questions of the travellers; and Ellen was in a fair way of being spoiled, by the praises they bestowed on her beauty. Frank was a general favourite, and learned to dance the bolero almost as well as they did themselves. He had a quick ear, and caught their tunes and accent in perfection. His lively manners, artlessness, and spirit, were to them irresistible. He was always wandering about, and forming some new friendship, or making some new discovery.

Edward, more reserved, was less courted. He had made acquaintance with a priest of considerable talent, and was acquiring from him some valuable knowledge of the history and jurisprudence of Spain. This was an intimacy which Mr. Delville cheerfully promoted, while he was careful to accompany them often, and, unperceived, to watch the tendency of the information thus kindly given; and he was glad to withdraw Frank from an idolatry daily more absurd, and of which the boy was himself ashamed.

After a stay of six weeks, the day was at length fixed for their departure; and though there was no longer an object unvisited, yet it was a subject of regret to every one that they could stay no longer. But to have remained would have defeated all their plans for the winter; they therefore paid a farewell visit to their many friends, and their

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MARKET AT GRENADA.

favourite and regretted Alhambra. They walked through the market-place, and sent the carriage on before. They had never seen so extraordinary a show of fruit and vegetables. They purchased a melon for a penny, and found the flavour superior to any thing they had before tasted. To their astonishment, however, they saw that nothing had so quick or ready a sale as boiled potatoes: a regular steam-boiler was in constant requisition, and the demands upon its produce were incessant. Frank gave a penny to a little boy, who was standing looking on with wishful eyes. He bought some immediately, and sitting down, prepared to enjoy himself. Frank would gladly have done the same, but there was no time.

UNPLEASANT ANTICIPATIONS.

247

CHAPTER XIX.

CHARACTER OF THE MURCIANS-INUNDATION OF LOR

OF MURCIA

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ENGLISH

AND

CA-MURCIA TOWER
SPANISH MODES OF LIFE-SOULS IN PURGATORY-
EARTHQUAKE AT LA GRANJA-STORY OF THE MANIAC-
DATE-TREES AT ELCHE ALICANT-MOORISH PHY-

SICIANS VALENCIA CATHEDRAL

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RELICS-TILE

MANUSCRIFTS AT

THE CONVENT OF LOS REYES.

THE regret of the English travellers for leaving Grenada, was heightened by the melancholy prophecies of their friends, concerning the misery of their accommodation on the road, and the certainty of being robbed more than once. If Mr. Delville had been alone, he would have disregarded these prognostications of evil; but having ladies with him, he thought it best to err on the safest side. He procured an escort of four soldiers at the cost of thirty-five dollars; and was assured, that under that protection he might travel all over Spain.

When they had given their last farewell glance to the Alhambra and Grenada, their attention was

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INDOLENCE OF THE MURCIANS.

directed to Murcia, and the character of its inhabitants. "They are remarkable," said Mr. Delville, "for their idleness and indifference. The Cardinal Bellegu, who was long their bishop, observed of them in a jest, that the sky and the soil of their country was good; but that which was between them, (meaning the inhabitants,) was detestable. This prelate, however, during the celebrated war of succession in Spain, being devoted to Philip V., put himself at the head of the Murcians, defeated the troops of the archduke Charles, and afterwards took Carthagena; so that he had no reason to complain of their courage. In the time of the Moors, Carthagena being attacked by the celebrated Abdellaris, the women dressed themselves like men, and rivalled the garrison in valour."

“These, Frank," said his mother, "these are ladies after your own heart.”

Frank, however, was not quite sure:-he had some indistinct idea, that arms were not suited to a woman's hand: but his attention was so occupied by the soldiers, that he had not time to decide the point.

"What makes the Murcians so indolent, papa ?' said Ellen.

"I do not know; unless it be the bad habits in which they are brought up. Murillo says, that the children are so spoiled by their mothers, that

PREJUDICE AGAINST BEEF.

249

they cannot endure to lose sight of the belfry of their native town. From this cause it is, that so few Murcians are seen in the universities, fewer still in the army, and yet more rarely in the marine. They only wish for idleness and plenty to eat. Their inactive disposition is not confined to the gentry; the artisans and labourers partake of it. They eat often, because they live upon vegetables highly seasoned with pepper. They have a particular dislike to beef, and think those who like it are Jews; in consequence of which prejudice it is not publicly sold in the market-place, but brought privately from a distance of three leagues. The costume of the villagers you will find highly picturesque."

The first town of any consequence at which they arrived was Bazu. They came upon it by surprise, after travelling over a plain swept by all the cold winds from the snowy mountains by which it was bounded, when it suddenly terminated in an abrupt descent, and the warm, sheltered valley in which the village stands received them.

The inn was unusually good; and they found themselves repaid for all they had suffered over the almost frozen plain. Early as they set off the next morning, they found time to go and see the nine iron columns in the market-place, made from the nine cannon with which Ferdinand

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