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Grenada, rather than the necessities of the road, had made them necessary; though they afterwards learned that the dispersion of a noted band in Andalusia, and their escape into Portugal, had been the chief cause of their safety.

The diligence goes in ten hours from Murcia to Alicant; and Mr. Delville thought it best to take advantage of it. They set off at an early hour, on a November morning. Nothing could surpass the beauty of the road; and the date-trees that border it, are said to be finer than those of Africa.

"Who could believe," said Mrs. Delville, " that this is November, if we were only to look at the sky and the foliage ?"

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How differently," said Ellen, "the poor folks are feeling in Yorkshire: what red noses, blue lips, and frozen fingers they are now heirs to! O, I feel cold when I think of it!"

"Remember," said Edward, "the vigour of mind and body they enjoy; the clear, decisive purpose, and the power and the will to carry it into execution; and look and envy, if you can, these pale-faced, nerveless creatures."

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In the daily concerns of life," said his father, "your observation may have some truth; but you must remember, that the nature of our climate requires great exertions for a man to live, and too often he lives but miserably with them all. Here

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EXCESS OF TOIL IN ENGLAND.

the common necessaries of life are so reasonable, that he has no motive for labour; and I confess it is pleasant to me to see the people able to live and enjoy themselves, without that perpetual toil that gain brings with it in England."

"But, father," said Edward, "I thought you liked energy of character."

"I do, when it is necessary; but I am not an enemy to the innocent enjoyments of life. The dolce far niente of the Italians is grateful at

times to us all and I think we should all be happier in England, if we sacrificed less to show, and were content with humbler modes of existence. I am persuaded that both mind and body are frequently worn out by the anxious accumulation of riches, which, when acquired, are often valueless to the possessor; the power of enjoying them, the easy day, the tranquil night, have all been hazarded, and lost in their acquisition: and Edward," continued Mr. Delville," though the Spaniards have not those daily objects of attention and interest that we have, this is rather their misfortune than their fault. On great and important occasions, no nation under the sun have shown themselves more devoted to the service of their country. England has been free from all attacks on her native soil. What effect repeated

*Literally," the sweet do-nothing."

BIGOTRY OF ORIHUELA.

257

invasions might have upon us; how far we should steadily continue to sow that which an enemy might reap; or remain firm to the good and just cause, where advantage might be gained by siding with the enemy, are questions that events have given us no opportunity of answering. But he who puts on his armour, must not boast himself as he who takes it off."

They stopped at Orihuela to breakfast. They walked into the church, which they found full of persons at their devotions. There was not a saint who had not a competent number of worshippers; and some were beating their breasts, with an intensity of anguish that was truly astonishing. Frank expressed himself desirous of acting the part of flagellant to some of them; and looked so merry, as he examined the waxen arms, legs, and bodies, hung up before a popular saint, that Mr. Delville was glad to get him out of the church before he was noticed.

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Orihuela," he said, "has long been famous for its superior bigotry, where all are bigots. I remember a very witty story told of the duke de Villa Mediana. It happened in this town. He was going out of the church of our lady of Atocha; a priest held towards him a silver plate, beseeching him to give something for the poor souls in purgatory. He gave a gold piece of some value. Ah! sir,' said the friar, there is one soul saved

S

some yellow, some deep orange, and some brown. The taste of the yellow, bordering upon brown, they found the most agreeable. After passing through a wild country, they reached Alicant late; discovering first the sea, and then the castle on its high rock. They were conducted to an inn that overlooked the sea, against the walls of which the sea beat vehemently; and before them was the harbour, a busy and animated scene. The gardens of Alicant lie along the sea-shore, surrounded on three sides by lofty mountains. The houses are magnificent, and the rooms and staircases paved with the Valencia tile; the ground white, and a flower in the middle, executed with great delicacy and truth.

There was not much in Alicant to interest the young people. There is a manufactory of cloth; but the only interest attached to it is, that it is wholly a charitable institution, in which none but orphans are admitted, or children whose parents are unable to provide them with any occupation.

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And, papa," said Frank, on hearing this mentioned, "there is a military school here, for the children of poor soldiers, who are taught to read and write, and cipher."

How did you find that out, Frank ?"

Why, I met one of them this morning at the harbour, and I showed him I knew how to bear arms as well as he did."

ITS EFFECTS UPON A POOR WOMAN. 259

awful visitation had been. They only saw one upper story standing, and far the greater number of houses had been overthrown. The tower of the church had not been thrown down, but there was a wide rent from the top to the bottom. Upon the sides of some of the ancient walls the mournful inhabitants had built low houses of one story.

I remember," said Mr. Delville, "when I was at Toledo, and visited the mad-house there, I saw a middle-aged woman seated upon the ledge of the window, her eyes intently fixed upon the sky. She was a native of a village on the coast of Murcia, which was destroyed by this earthquake. She had been at a neighbouring hamlet, selling dates; and on her return to the village, she had seen her home, and with it her children, swallowed up. She had never spoken from that hour. All day long she sat on the window-ledge of the hall, gazing upon the sky; and every day it required the strength of two persons to take her from her window to dinner. She was perfectly harmless."

After this story, they passed on, in mournful silence, through the villages which had suffered so overwhelming a calamity, till they arrived at Elche, which was called the City of Dates. It lies amidst a forest of palms. They are scattered amongst the houses, and seem to have been planted wherever there was a spot of land unoccupied. The colour of the fruit varied: some was green,