EASTERN RAMBLES AND REMINISCENCES. RAMBLE THE FIRST. FROM BEYROUT TO DAMASCUS. "A CITY in confusion fair, Magnificently form'd, irregular; Where woods and palaces at once surprise; Gardens on gardens, domes on domes, arise." Lady M. W. Montague. Ir may be a matter of curiosity with some of my fair readers to know who I am, how I arrived at Beyrout, and the cause of my journey; therefore, for fear they may entertain some erroneous notions upon the subject, suffice it to say, that I formerly belonged to one of Her Most Gracious Majesty's ships; that I endured, in common with others, a certain amount of seasickness, and the usual discomforts attendant upon sea voyages; and that my visit was not from choice. Like many others in the navy, my rambles were made without any regard to arrangement-here to-day, there to-morrow; and my present purpose is to give only such of them as present either the greatest novelty, beauty of scenery, or historical associations, along the shores of the Great Sea. We started from Beyrout at five o'clock in the morning, in the early part of September-a goodly troop of men and cattle, with eatables and drinkables, pipes, guns, &c., and we were all fully determined to make a merry trip of it, if we did nothing else. The morning was bracing, clear, and gladsome; the air resounded with the chirp of birds, and the lanes through which we wound our path, with the hum of the muleteer's song, the tramp of our horses and mules, and the clank of our water-bottles, chains, &c. Ever and anon one of our muleteers would start off at a full gallop, giving a shout, and flourishing his pipestick in imitation of the bedauwi, and he was soon followed by another of our guides, and then by the whole party. We struck off, after crossing the plain of Beyrout, into a beaten path leading over Lebanon, our way lying through groves of prickly pears (cactus opuntia), olives, and the sweet-smelling mimosa. We had scarcely gained the foot of the mountain, when the sun arose in all the splendour alone to be witnessed in the East, and "The air Fill'd with the heaviness of perfume-the sun flinging rays That seem like diamond darts, The murmuring sound of mossy streams, dis coursing Of happiness as they flow-the song of birds- all filled us with pleasure. On we went, dashing up the side of the mountain at the lower part, and after crossing a brook, arrived at the first khan, where we speedily proceeded to refresh both ourselves and horses. First impressions, it has often been said, are everything; and mine were favourable with respect to the khan-the inn of the East. There is something very consoling, nay, even jolly, in the bubbling nargeleh and cup of coffee that is presented on alighting from your horse, though the legions of ravenous fleas that assail you on every side, the smoke from the wood fires that makes you weep without woe, and the tough, pancake-looking, dirty bread, take away a considerable portion of the romance and beauty of Eastern travelling, when rienced very often. Yet, notwithstanding all these discomforts, the khans are, most unquestionably, just the sort of thing that is required-nice cool retreats for the weary wayfarer from the scorching heat, when, "Vertical the sun expe are all forcibly contrasted with those at home. It has been said that comparisons are odious, but in such a case I deny it; for Home, dear old England, always conquers. When far away from those we love, and those that love us, who have watched with anxious hours over our budding years, have beheld us grow up under their fostering care, have awarded praise when due, and censured, justly-can we forget them? No! the heart yearns after them and the scenes of our childhood; there is a feeling that no one can describe, or conquer, that we must all have experienced at some time, when away from cherished scenes, a thrill passes through us at the very mention of their names. From this khan the road ascends the steep side of the mountain, and turns and winds round in such a manner, that it appears as if the summit would never be reached; for, on account of the winter No rains washing away the soil, the roads are obliged to be made, in most parts, in antion: covered with stones as large as an gular terraces. They almost defy descripordinary sized turnip, you are in danger of a fall every minute, as they keep rolling about; and not the least unpleasant thing is a shower of them occasionally, from a terrace above you, caused by some wild Arab dashing on. Happy the man that escapes without one or two falling on him! sooner have you arrived at the summit of a hill, and begun to examine the picturesque scenes around, which you have secretly multitudinous joltings of the past two hours, promised to enjoy as a recompense for the and inconvenience of descending again into than you are doomed to undergo the labour the valley, and ascending on the other side, in order to reach a place not more than ten minutes' ride in a straight line-a process which generally occupies an hour at Darts on the head direct his forceful rays-" or from the heavy dews at night. Here, revived by the freshening breeze, he re-least. clines on a rush mat, and sips his coffee, taking an occasional whiff of the nargeleh; and, buried in reverie, is soon lost to the cares and troubles of the world around him. He lives in a new sphere, a happy one of his own fancy's creation, where all is joy, blissful peace, harmony, and-smoke! The rugged road he has just passed, the slow pace he travelled on the whole, the heat, his companions, the novelty of the costumes, the khan, and his mode of living, We certainly did not quite like the idea of travelling along such roads, with a yawning precipice beneath us at least eighty or a hundred feet deep; but the sagacity and sure-footedness of our noble horses soon inspired us with confidence, and, before long, we were regardless of chasms, steeps, declivities, or precipices. We dined at two o'clock off grapes, figs, and a host of European delicacies, among which some oyster soup was prominent, and some rum-grog. softer and more comfortable bed than any you can get in the mountain districts. The next thing is a couple of gimlets of two sizes, and two cot-hooks, to append the hammocks to; the gimlets will serve the double purpose of boring the holes for your hooks, and for hanging your various things upon, so that they may not afford shelter for the fleas. A few pieces of twine and cord are very handy on many occasions, particularly when a stirrup is broken, or the sumpter-mule rolls over in the road with all the eatables, breaking the boxes, and letting the contents get adrift. Pins, a few buttons, and some needles and thread, are also in frequent request, but, too generally, not in response. Above all, do not forget a pocket-flask, to contain some drink desert is not very agreeable when you have not the means of quenching it. The sun had set, and as the day was fast waning, we arrived at our halting-place for the night. Here we found about twenty mules, laden with slabs of marble for paving court yards, and the muleteers quar-able, be it wine or water; as thirst in the relling about some eggs, which, after being cooked for their supper, had been stolen. Their gestures, language, and costumes were striking; and so were they, for they found the thief, and thrashed him pretty soundly. As soon as the wrangling was over, we turned our attention to our own affairs, looked after the horses, examined the khan, made up a fire, unpacked the baggage, and, in fact, endeavoured to make ourselves comfortable. The khan was built of mud, and contained two rooms; a sort of store for corn, chopped straw for the horses, and the constant fare of all khans, viz. eggs, goatcheese, figs, grapes, and the pancake-looking bread, which is almost tough enough to write upon. In form, the khan was square, with a rude colonnade in front; under this we hung our hammocks-for, sailor-like, we carried them with us; and not finding the cold air of the mountains too agreeable as an evening companion, we wisely fastened up some baggage coverings and blankets to the inside of the colonnade, so as to make ourselves snug. It may be well to remind my readers, in case that they should ever travel in the East, that there are certain things which they will find convenient and comfortable on a short journey like this; the requisites for a long one shall be given in one of my future Rambles. In the first place, by all means have a hammock, as it will save you from the legions of fleas that celebrate European arrivals, and be a much We had scarcely arranged our quarters for the night, manufactured some excellent punch, and commenced a song, when one of our messmates made his appearance with some letters for several of the party, and a despatch for another-now alas! gathered to his fathers, with most of the merry group that were then assembled. The despatch was answered on the blank half-sheet of the letter; the officer writing it with a reed pen, and soot and water. When the business of the evening had been concluded, we resumed our mirth, and made what is generally termed "a night of it,' for the morning had dawned before we attempted to court sleep; but it was so intensely cold that we were unable to get a nap until the snow-capped summits of Lebanon had been gilded with the sun's rays. The song of the muleteers who were there on our arrival, awoke us as they were starting in the morning; and as soon as we had despatched a hasty breakfast, we once more set off on our journey. The road now lay between wild and rugged mountains, not high, but bare, cracked, and crumbling into fragments. The tops had apparently once been lofty and pointed; but Time, the action of the elements, and the earthquakes formerly so frequent in Syria, had changed their character. The valley itself, too, was stony, broken, and gullied by the washing of the winter torrents. At every step the scene became more solemn and impressive; all was still around us; not a sound broke the universal silence, except the tramp of our horses. inore. After some time the road improved a little; we commenced with a trot, which broke into a canter, and finally into a gallop, as the road improved more and What a change had taken place in a few minutes! Just before, all were quiet; now, they were shouting and racing as if demented. Again the scene changed; and almost suddenly-for we entered another valley, if possible even more wild than the one we had just left; the mountains became more and more strikingly grand, venerable, and interesting. Not a shrub or blade of grass was visible on their naked sides, which were deformed with gaps and fissures, and seemed to threaten us with instant destruction, from the hugh masses of overhanging rock. The same silence reigned here as in the last wild ravine; and when I fired a pistol at a jackal that was crossing the valley, its report was reverberated like the fire of files of soldiers, which sent the hawks and other birds screeching from their nests. The day was intensely hot, not a breath of wind stirring to cool us; and worse than all, we were tormented with thirst. We had not any water, and were obliged to push on at a brisk trot in order to reach a khan for the night. On we went, scrambling over fallen rocks, up mountain torrentchannels, by the edges of precipices, then through valleys; at one time our horses were knee-deep in water, at others deeper; sometimes we were galloping over a dusty plain, at others crawling up a rugged path on the mountain side; in fact, we were eight hours upon horseback, without any rest or refreshment, except a few grapes. Night was approaching, and we were almost despairing of reaching a hut or khan, when we heard the distant barking of dogs. Off we all set, notwithstanding our fatigue, horses and men both seeming to anticipate the pleasures and comforts of a good meal and sleep. On we went merrily, and at eight o'clock-fourteen hours from the time we left our last hotel-arrived at rather a nice-looking khan, which our guide informed us was only six or eight hours' ride from Damascus. Our fatigue was soon forgotten in the enjoyment of a blazing wood-fire in the corner of the room, and the prospect of a good meal. We all set to work, and soon had an excellent stew smoking in a dish, which was placed upon the floor, our party being seated tailor-fashion around it. What would the fastidious have said, had they seen us dipping our fingers into the dish for every morsel, in true Eastern style? After a sound sleep, in spite of cold and fleas, we once more set out upon the road. It was soon after four o'clock, and the morning was cold and foggy, and, to add to our discomfort, the rain was beating in our faces. Having every prospect of being soaked to the skin before our arrival at Damascus, we set off at a good brisk gallop. Good fortune favoured us again, for the sun soon peered from the thick mists that hung over our heads, and "A sunbeam and a pearly shower Came twinkling down to earth, Together laughing in their tears, And weeping in their mirth." The bright gleam of the morning sun chased away the mists, and showed us, far distant, the mountains intervening Damascus and ourselves, and a portion of sky as blue as the fairest sapphire. It was from these mountains that the Prophet first beheld the city of El Sham Shereef, "the noble and beautiful," lying at his feet, and, exclaiming-" Only one paradise is allowed to man, I will not take mine in this world," he turned away to the desert. Every curve of the road was presenting us with a new view of wild, barren, and desolate scenery; and yet, frequently, in little spots, watered by the countless mountain streams that flow into the valley below, we saw shrubs and patches of green grass, and the silver poplar with its tremulous leaves. We now reached Saláyèh, and paused to view the city. Such a prospect I have never yet witnessed; it well repaid us for the sleepless nights and days of toil we endured to reach it. It was a scene of which no words can convey a description to do justice to its beauty; yet, I will endeavour to depict it as well as my powers of writing will permit, and, in my next Ramble, will present my readers with the view as seen by us. Beneath our feet lay the gardens of Damascus, thick set with fruit trees of all kinds, whose massive, dark-green foliage was beautifully contrasted with the gay and variously tinted blossoms, as it rolled like the waves of the sea; the towering minarets, that shoot high into the air, appear to vie with Nature's fair works below; the purple-domed mosques, tipped with glittering crescents, and the houses and monuments, all strangely mingled in the centre. The gardens, it is said, extend for not less than twenty miles round the city, and are kept fresh and luxuriant by the numerous streams. Far distant is the vast plain, enclosed on three sides by mountains, whose dim and shadowy forms break the horizon; but near to the city they rear their rugged and barren sides, as in the savage gorges we had recently left, crowned with nodding masses that seemed to threaten destruction to the jaded traveller; and far away to the south and east lay the desert ocean of sand. We descended the hill, and soon reached a spot about half a mile from the city, which tradition points out as the place where Saul was arrested in his career by the light and voice from Heaven. It is on the side of the old road, near the ruined arch of a bridge, close to which are the tombs of some devout Christians; but there is no other memorial to point out so remarkable a spot, except the deviation of the road, which allows it to be out of the stream of travellers. Passing on through groves of poplar, cypress, olive, walnut, and mimosas, we heard on every side "the still sound Of falling waters, lulling as the song In its blue blossoms, hum themselves to sleep!" How delicious was the cool shade, after the scorching heat we had lately endured; and how delightful the fragrance of the flowers around, below, and above us! We found much to interest us in our passage through the town to the "Hotel de l'Europe," which was kept by a native, named Kharoof; but of the curiosities, beauties, and peculiarities of Damascus, I shall not make mention at present; they shall be reserved for my future Rambles. It was near to the city that I first saw one of the Eastern methods of drawing water for camels from a well, and, the subject being interesting and picturesque, I have given it above. LECTURE I.-GENERAL IMPRESSIONS OF CHEMICAL ACTION. MY YOUNG FRIENDS.-You are about to commence the study of Chemistry, and you may naturally ask at the outset-What is Chemistry? The best way in which I can answer you is, to enter immediately on one of the great questions with which that science is concerned. You are all familiar with the process of Burning, or Combustion. A piece of wood is set on fire-it burns-and it gradually consumes, leaving no visible remains but a trifling quantity of white ash. What has become of it? Is it annihilated? A few simple considerations may perhaps make us doubt whether this is really the case. Every body is aware of the necessity of providing some means of escape for the products of combustion, whatever they may be; and in an apartment in which a large number of candles or gaslights are burning, it is necessary to secure proper means of ventilation, or the air soon becomes unfit to breathe. Perhaps, you may say that the smoke, which is nothing but unburned fuel, is sufficient to account for the annoyance, at least in the case of the fire; but when no smoke is produced, as when charcoal is the substance burned, the evil is just as great. A charcoal fire burning in the middle of a room is positively dangerous to life; the air is altered in some way or other by the charcoal either taking something from it or diffusing something through it, so that it becomes quite unfit for respiration. Sulphur burning in the air produces little or no visible smoke, but it gives off a very pungent and suffocating vapour, which cannot be breathed for a moment without exciting the most unpleasant sensations. Phosphorus, when it burns, gives off a thick white smoke, quite different from the phosphorus itself; and if you cover it over with a glass jar while burning, you will find that the white substance will settle in flakes on the sides of the jar, and you may afterwards scrape it off. All these facts seem to suggest that |