ページの画像
PDF
ePub
[ocr errors]

positions by compass-bearings. He served under D'Estaing payment of the geld or tax. (Domesd. Book, tom. i., fol. 203.) in 1777 and 1778, and in 1782 was sent with a sixty-four In Norwich there were 420 bordarii: and 20 are mention.d gun ship to convey troops to Martinique. He then joined as living in Thetford. (Ibid, tom. ii. fol. 116 b. 173.) De Grasse's squadron, and being detached with a small Bishop Kennett says, 'The bordarii often mentioned ir. force of frigates on a cruise, he found himself, on the the Domesday Inquisition were distinct from the servi and clearing up of a mist, in the midst of an English squadron, villani, and seem to be those of a less servile condition, who He defended himself stoutly, enabled the rest of his ships had a bord or cottage with a small parcel of land allowed to to escape, and was then obliged to give up his own vessel them, on condition they should supply the lord with poultry (the Solitaire) a perfect wreck. On reading this extraordi- and eggs and other small provisions for his board and enternary account of a single ship defending itself for three hours tainment. (Gloss. Paroch. Antiq.) Such also is the interagainst a squadron in the midst of which it was at the be-pretation given by Blomfield in his History of Norfolk.' ginning of the action, we thought it might be safe to com- Brady says they were drudges, and performed vile services, pare it with the official account of the English admiral, and which were reserved by the lord upon a poor little house, we find another version, namely, that in the month of De- and a small parcel of land, and might perhaps be domestic cember, 1782, the Solitaire fell in with the squadron of Sir works, such as grinding, threshing, drawing water, cutting R. Hughes, and of course endeavoured to escape; that the wood, &c.' (Pref., p. 56.) Ruby, of 60 guns, commanded by Captain Collins, overtook her by dint of sailing, and captured her in forty-one minutes, a perfect wreck, the only circumstance in which the two accounts agree, and on which the admiral takes occasion to notice the very great superiority of the fire of the Ruby. Borda was honourably treated, and allowed to return to France on parole. From that time to the end of a very useful life, he was mostly employed on the great measurement of the meridian. He died February 19-20, 1799. The preceding summary is on the authority of the éloge in the 4th volume of the Memoirs of the Institute.

A sketch of this kind is not the place to describe inventions or methods, which will be found in their proper places. In 1767 Mayer had proposed a whole circle of reflexion for astronomical purposes. Borda published the account of his own improvement of the idea, since so well known, in 1787, under the title of Description et usage du Cercle de Reflexion. The repeating circle (a further modification of the ideas of Mayer) was not described by himself, but appeared first, so far as we can find, in the 'Exposé des Opérations,' &c., (94 pages) published in 1791 by the three commissioners, Cassini, Méchain, and Legendre, appointed to superintend the French part of the junction of the observatories of Paris and Greenwich.

In 1790 he found by experiment the length of the pendulum at Paris (which at that time was contemplated as the basis of the new system of measures). His means and result are described under PENDULUM. From that time to the end of his life he was employed in devising and executing the means of forwarding the great survey: the methods for measuring the base were formed under his inspection, and he was in fact the inventor of most of the original instruments employed. It has been said that to him and Coulomb must be traced the rise of the sound experimental philosophy for which the French have since become distinguished; and it certainly appears to us that

there is some truth in the observation.

In the meanwhile he had charged himself with the expense of calculating and printing new tables of logarithmic sines, &c., corresponding with the new division of the circle into 400 degrees. These were published in 1801, under the title of Tables Trigonométriques Décimales,' &c. (An. ix.) with revision and an explanation, by Delambre.

Borda was of a quick and lively turn. When a boy, he is said to have been able to make two translations from French into Latin at once, in different terms, from dictation, one for himself and one for his next class-fellow. He was fond of poetry and the antient writers, and particularly attached to the Odyssey of Homer.

BORDA'RII, one of the classes of agricultural occupiers of land mentioned in the Domesday Survey, and, with the exception of the villani, the largest. The origin of their name, and the exact nature of their tenure, have been variously interpreted. Lord Coke (Inst. lib. i. §. i. fol. 5 b. edit. 1628) calls them boors holding a little house with some land of husbandry, bigger than a cottage. Nichols, in his Introduction to the History of Leicestershire,' p. xlv., considers them as cottagers, taking their name from living on the borders of a village or manor: but this is sufficiently refuted by Domesday itself, where we find them not only mentioned generally among the agricultural occupiers of land, but in one instance as circa aulam manentes,' dwelling near the manor house; and even residing in some of the larger towns. In two quarters of the town of Huntingdon, at the time of forming the Survey, as well as in king Edward the Confessor's time, there were 116 burgesses, and subordinate to them 100 bordarii, who aided them in the

Bond, as Bishop Kennett has already noticed, was a cottage. Bordarii, it should seem, were cottagers merely. In one of the Ely Registers we find bordarii, where the breviate of the same entry in Domesday itself reads cotarii. Their condition was probably different on different manors. In some entries in the Domesday Survey, bordarii arantes' occur. At Evesham, on the abbey demesne, 27 bordarii are described as 'servientes curiæ. (Domesd., tom. i., fol. 175 b.)

On the demesne appertaining to the castle of Ewias, there were 12 bordarii, who are described as performing personal labour on one day in every week. (Ibid. fol. 186.) At St. Edmondsbury in Suffolk, the abbot had 118 homagers, and under them 52 bordarii. The total number of bordarii noticed in the different counties of England in Domesday Book is 82,634. (Ellis's General Introd, to Domesday Book, edit. 1833, vol. i. p. 82, ii. p. 511; Heywood's Dissert. upon the Ranks of the People under the Anglo-Saxon Governments, pp. 303, 305.)

BORDEAUX, or BOURDEAUX* (antiently BOURDEAUS and BORDEAULX), one of the most important cities in France, in the department of Gironde: 371 miles S.S.W. from Paris by Orléans, Vierzon, Châteauroux, Limoges, and Perigueux; 376 by Chartres, Vendôme, Tours, and Angoulême; and 378 by Orléans, Blois, Tours, and Angoulême. It is in 44° 50′ 25′′ N. lat., and 0° 33′ 35′′ W long.

Bordeaux is on the left or western bank of the river Garonne, which here makes a considerable bend, having the city on its concave bank, which is lined with extensive quays; and as the buildings extend to the greatest distance from the river about the centre of these quays, and cover a narrower space as they approach the extremities, the whole form of the place nearly resembles that of the crescent moon. The bend of the river is so great, that a line or chord drawn from N. by W. to S. by E. and joining the two extremities or horns of the crescent, not only includes a portion of the river, but also of the opposite or convex bank, on which is the suburb of La Bastide. The length of such line or chord (measured on the Plan of Bordeaux, published by the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge) is about two miles: the distance between the same points along the bank of the river is about two miles and a half; and along the convex boundary of the town towards the open country, more than four miles and a half: the greatest breadth from the river towards the country, drawn from W. by S. to E. by N., is about a mile.

Bordeaux is a very antient city. It was an important place in the time of Strabo, who was contemporary with Our Lord. In the Geography of Strabo it is mentioned as the μжopetov (emporeion), or chief trading-place of the Biroupyes (in Latin Bituriges), who were surnamed 'lookoì (Iosci) according to Strabo, Ubisci or Vibisci according to others, or Vivisci according to Ausonius. These Bituriges were a Celtic nation (a branch probably of the Bituriges Cubi who inhabited the province of Berri), and had settled within the limits which Cæsar assigns to the Aquitani. Strabo describes the town, which he calls Bovpdiyala (Bourdigala), as situated probaλárry rivì, which D'Anville interprets as meaning a place up to which the sea (or tide) flows. Ptolemy writes the name in the same manner as Strabo; but

The former of these two is now the prevalent mode of writing this name: in the time of M. D'Anvile the practice seems to have been more variable. the Benedictine, in his History of Bordeaux, contends for the ou, but says that D'Anville himself gives some reasons for preferring Bourdeaux Devienne, custom had established the use of Bordeaux.-It is observable that Vienne says this is an old form, more antient indeed than that of Bourdeaux; and in written Bordeauls, a very antient map of France in the British Museum (Venice, 1566) it,is

[graphic][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][subsumed][merged small][merged small]

B, Le Palais Gallien or Amphitheatre.

C. The Stream Divitia.

D, Hôtel de Ville.

E, Château Trompette.

F. Castle of Ha, now a prison.

G, Fort Ste. Croix, or St. Louis.

H. The Bridge.

1. The Custom House.

K, The Exchange.

L. Royal Building Yard.
M, Pluce Royale.

N, Place Dauphine.
O, Cours XII. Mars.

P, Allées d'Angoulême and de Berri.
Q. Rue Chapeau Rouge.

R, Place Lainé.

S. Palais or Château Royal.

T, Principal Theatre,

U, Cathedral.

V, Public Cemetery, formerly Vineyard of the

Chartreuse.

W, College Royal, or High School.
X, School for the Deaf and Dumb.
Y, Hôtel de l'Académie Royale.
Z, Foundling Hospital.

the Latin writers give Burdigala and Burdegala. The importance of Burdigala is shown by the circumstance, that it was made the capital of the province of Aquitania Secunda in the subdivision of the Gallic provinces, about the middle or latter end of the fourth century. Ausonius, a Latin poet of the fourth century, himself a native of this place, has left a description of it in his poem Clara Urbes, or Ordo Nobilium Urbium, from which we take the following extract:

Impia iamdudum condemno silentia, quod te,
O patria, insignem Baccho, fluuiisque, uirisque,
Moribus ingeniisque hominum, procerumque senatu,
Non inter primas memorem: quasi conscius urbis
Exigua. immeritas dubitem contingere laudes.

Non pudor hinc nobis. Nec enim mihi barbara Rheni
Ora, nec Arctoo domus est glacialis in Hæmo;
Burdigala est natale solum : clementia cali
Mitis ubi, et rigua larga indulgentia terræ;
Ver longum, brumæque breues, iuga frondea subsunt.
Feruent æquoreos imitata fluenta meatus.
Quadrua niurorum species, sic turribus altis
Ardua, ut aerias intrent fastigia nubes.
Distinctas interne uias mirere, domorum

Dispositum, et latas nomen seruare plateas:
Tum respondentes directa in compita portas,
Per mediumque urbis fontani fluminis alueum:
Quem pater Oceanus reffuo cum impleuerit æstu,
Aalabi totum spectabis classibus æquor.
Clare Urbes, xiv. B.

'I have long been condemning my impious silence, in not mentioning among the chief [cities], thee, O my country, renowned for wine, and streams, and men; for the manners and talents of thy inhabitants, and [thy] council of the nobles as though conscious of the small [extent of my native] city, I hesitated to touch upon unmerited praises. No shame do I feel for this reason. Not mine the barbarous bank of the Rhenus, nor is my icy dwelling in the northern Hæmus. Burdigala is my birth-place, where the

*

a, b, c, Walls of Bourdeaux in later times, marked by a strong line.

d, Cours d'Albret

e, Cours de Tourny.

f. Cours du Jardin Public.

g, Allées de Tourny.

h, Quai de Chartrons.

i, Quai de Bacalan.

k, Jardin Public,

1, La Bastide.

1, Ste. Croix Suburb.

[blocks in formation]

temperature of the sky is mild, and great the liberality (i. e. fertility) of the watered earth. Long is the spring and short the winters; and close at hand are wood-crowned eminences. The waters are ruffled with tides like those of the ocean. The form of the walls is quadrangular, and so lofty with its high towers, that [their] summits pierce the airy clouds. You will admire the well-arranged [distinctas, adorned] streets within, the disposition of the houses, and that the broad-ways [plateas] still [justly] preserve their name and then [you will admire] the gates corresponding to the streets which cross at right angles, [directa compita,] and the bed of the stream from a spring, flowing through the midst of the city: and when Father Ocean has filled this with his up-flowing tide, you will see the whole water covered with fleets.'

Besides the stream mentioned in the above extract, Ausouius notices another which supplied a handsomely adorned and copious fountain, and which he calls Divona. The site of the Roman Burdigala, as we gather from the above extract, was a quadrangle: the greater diameter of this quadrangle extended nearly from E. to W. The gates appear to have been fourteen in number four on the north, and as many on the south side, and three each on the eastern and western sides. La Porte Basse, the last of the gates, was demolished about twenty or five and twenty years since. Of the walls and towers some remains it is probable exist still. The stones used in the foundations of the wall were of a great size. Two Roman edifices survived the various devastations of the city, and came down to modern

As the country on the west side of the Garonne is flat, we must suppose

the poet to refer to the hills on the opposite bank.

+ The tide flows up the Garonne considerably above Bordeaux. Called the Divitia (now La Devise): of the dock which was formed in its channel (now covered over) no vestiges remain, See Elias Vinetus, Commentary on Ausonius,

[ocr errors][merged small]

of the public buildings were burned, and the inhabitants nearly all put to the sword. This event occurred about 731 or 732.

days. The ruins of one of these, the amphitheatre, or, as it [
is called, Le Palais Galien, the palace of Gallienus,' yet
remain, though much dilapidated; the other edifice, the
'Palais Tutele,' as it is called by Vinet, was demolished
when Louis XIV. rebuilt Château Trompette, in the latter
part of the seventeenth century. It stood on what was the
esplanade of the castle, which has in its turn been demo-
lished, and the site is now occupied by the grand Place de
Louis XVI. Some authorities speak of an amphitheatre
distinct from the Palace of Gallienus, but we think this has
arisen from some misapprehension on their part.

[ocr errors]

The amphitheatre is in the outskirts of the town, or rather in the Fauxbourg St. Surin, just to the left of the road to Medoc. Its greater diameter when entire was 226 French, or about 241 English feet; its smaller diameter 166 French, or 177 English feet; its external elevation 60 French, or 64 English feet. During the Revolution the site was sold as national property, and the arena defaced with a parcel of little houses, to which the most perfect remains of the amphitheatre were made to serve as foundations, or for the erection of which the stones of this interesting monument of a former age were appropriated. The circuit of the arena may be traced however all round, and there remain many arches constructed with alternate courses of brick-work and of small square stones. When Vinet published his L'Antiquité de Bourdeaus (1574), this building was in much better preservation. He has given an engraving of it in his work. Le Palais Tutele is supposed by some to have been a temple consecrated to the tutelary genius or divinity of the city. It consisted of a basement about 96 English feet long by about 70 wide, and 23 or 24 high, upon which had been erected twenty-four Corinthian pillars, eight being presented at the side, and six at the front. Upon these columns, and supported by them, was an attic, having open spaces corresponding in number to the spaces between the columns. The pilasters between the spaces of this attic were adorned with caryatid figures on the front and back. In the basement was an apartment nine feet high, occupied at a later period as a wine-cellar. (Stuart's and Revett's Antiquities of Athens, last edit. vol. iii. p. 120 note.) There are few other remains of Roman antiquity. Some inscriptions and some statues, part of them mutilated, which have been found, have been collected together. (Millin, Voyage dans les Départements du Midi de la France; Devienne, Histoire de Bourdeaux.)

Notwithstanding these remains of antiquity have been found in the city, some learned men (and among them Adrian de Valois), misled by some passages in Gregory of Tours and another antient writer, have contended that the Roman Burdigala was on the right bank of the Garonne; and that it was not till the sack of the city by the Saracens that the citizens transferred their abode to the other side of the river.

Under the Romans Burdigala was not the scene of any important historical event, except the assumption of the purple by Tetricus (one of those commonly but inaccurately designated the thirty tyrants'), in the reign of Gallienus, in the third century: it derives its reputation rather from the zeal with which literature was cultivated. Ausonius has sung the praises of its numerous professors. Devienne, in his Histoire de Bordeaux,' tells us that in the school of this city religious profession formed no bar to entrance; that Christians and Pagans studied there alike, and that even females received instruction in the establishment.

[ocr errors]

Domestic troubles, caused by the attempts of the Dukes of Aquitaine to become independent of the kings of France, agitated afresh the south-west of France, after the defeat and expulsion of the Saracens by Charles Martel : but we have no account that Burdigala suffered by these commotions; it was perhaps too much reduced by the disaster it had lately sustained to be an object of ambition to either party. Under Charlemagne it was under a count of its own, and began to recover from its downfall. Its prosperity was advanced by its being incorporated by Charles le Chauve (the Bald), who reigned about the middle of the ninth century, with the duchy of Gascogne, of which it became the capital. But prosperity in those dark ages only rendered it more the object of attack; Burdigala, or, as we may now call it, Bordeaux, was taken by the Normans, and underwent a more complete destruction than any which it had yet experienced. The houses were almost entirely destroyed, and the unhappy Bordelois abandoned for a time their native city.

When the Normans received from Charles the Simple, about the close of the ninth or beginning of the tenth century, the province called from them Normandie, they desisted from ravaging the rest of France; and Bordeaux was rebuilt and repeopled, and became again the residence of the dukes of Gascogne, who built here the castle or palace of L'Ombrière. Upon the union of the duchies of Guienne and Gascogne, the dukes abandoned Bordeaux for Poitiers, which had been the capital of the duchy of Guienne; and Bordeaux was reduced to the capital of a county, to the possessor of which it gave title. Yet it still continued to be an important place, and it may be questioned whether it did not resume its rank of ducal capital; for here it was that Louis VII. of France (le Jeune) espoused Alienor or Eleanor, heiress of the united duchies of Guienne and Gascogne. The divorce of this princess, and her subsequent union with Henry, count of Anjou and king of England (Henry II.), caused Bordeaux to become part of the extensive dominions which the English monarchs possessed in France.

Bordeaux now became the capital of Guienne, a duchy formed of the districts of Bordelois, Agenois, Quercy, Perigord, Limousin, and Saintonge. This province remained to the English kings when Philippe Auguste, in the beginning of the thirteenth century, stripped them of all their other French possessions. Among those who held during this time the title of dukes of Guienne by the appointment of the English crown, were Richard Cœur de Lion, during the lifetime of his father, Henry II.; and Richard, duke of Cornwall, better known as king of the Romans, brother of Henry III. In the reign of this last-named king, the Hotel de Ville of Bordeaux was built, and the municipal government established or revived; and Henry himself made a long, needless, and expensive stay at Bordeaux, to the regret and the cost of his English subjects. The weakness of this prince, and the harshness of Simon de Montfort, earl of Leicester, whom he had nominated to the government of Guienne (after having wrested the duchy from Richard, duke of Cornwall, in order to bestow it upon his own then infant son, afterwards Edward I.), led to revolts on the part of the Gascons, and the earl was compelled to fly to England. He returned, however, with an army, and Bordeaux was compelled to open its gates to him; but as he continued his severities, new troubles arose. The king was now inclined to listen to the complaints of his subjects in Guienne: but the barons in the parliament of England, to which the affair was referred, supported Leicester; and the king encouraged the inhabitants of Guienne to revolt against the governor of his own appointment. The Bordelois raised troops and attacked Leicester; but the valour and military skill of this celebrated man gained him the victory, and Bordeaux was obliged again to submit upon very hard conditions. The troubles of the province were not, however, allayed, until Edward, son of Henry III., to whom, as already noticed, the duchy of Guienne had been given, took up his residence there, and acquired by his good qualities the esteem of his subjects.

Early in the fifth century (412) the Visigoths first attacked Gaul and possessed themselves of Burdigala and other places. Being obliged to withdraw into Spain, they burnt part of this city. After some years they became masters of it again, and it continued in their power, forming part of their kingdom, of which Tolosa or Toulouse was the capital. Under its new masters Burdigala declined; and the persecution of the Catholic Christians by the Arian Visigoths is represented as one cause of its downfall. After remaining under the dominion of the Visigoths for nearly a century, it came into the hands of the Frankish conqueror Clovis, who, after the battle of Vouillé, in which he defeated and slew Alaric, king of the Visigoths, wintered in this town. In the troubles which agitated France under the descendants of Clovis, it was the object of contest, and when the successful ambition of Charles Martel seemed to In the reign of Edward I. of England, a dispute having promise a more vigorous government and greater internal arisen between him and the King of France, Philippe IV. tranquillity, this unfortunate city was attacked by the Sara- (le Bel), Edward, whose attention was occupied by his wars cens, and being unable to resist their fury, the greater agreed to deliver up Bordeaux and the rest of

JAWERB Scotta

VOL, V.-2 A

(DONACIÓN PACINOO
BIBLICA

Guienne to the French, upon a promise that it should immediately be restored. This was intended to satisfy the indignation of Philippe, to whom Edward owed fealty for his French possessions. When the cession had been made, and restoration, agreeably to the convention, was demanded, Philippe eluded the demand. War ensued, and it was not until ten years after that the king of England re-entered into the possession of this part of his inheritance. Edward II., son and successor of Edward I., having quarrelled with Charles IV. (le Bel) of France, lost all Guienne except Bordeaux, and one or two other places; Guienne was given up by Charles, not to Edward himself, but to his son Edward, prince of Wales. This was in the early part of the fourteenth century. Either by Edward II. or by Edward III., when he became king of England, upon the deposition of his father, Bordeaux was annexed by a particular charter to the crown of England: this connexion, which was declared to be inseparable on any ground whatever, was formed by the desire of the municipal authorities. In the war between France and England which has signalized the reign of Edward III., Bordeaux became a place of great importance. From it the Black Prince set out on that expedition which led to the battle of Poitiers, and to it he conducted Jean II., king of France, who was taken prisoner in that memorable engagement. This was a period | of great splendour to Bordeaux: it became the capital of the principality of Guienne, which Edward III. formed in favour of his valiant son, from the provinces of Poitou, Saintonge, Agenois, Perigord, Limousin, Quercy, Bigorre, the territory of Jaure, Angoumois, Rouergue, and all that was comprehended in Guienne proper and Gascogne. Eleven years were passed by this prince at his new capital in all the splendour of sovereignty; and here was born his son, the degenerate and unhappy Richard II. When the affairs of the English declined, and there seemed a probability that Guienne (which was now reduced to the limits which bounded it before the erection of the principality in favour of the Black Prince) would be conquered by the French, the inhabitants of Bordeaux formed a convention with those of several other cities for mutual succour and defence. They retained their attachment to the English; and when Richard II. ceded the duchy of Guienne to his uncle, John of Gaunt. Duke of Lancaster, they refused to be separated from the English crown. So warmly were they attached to Richard as a native of their city, that when one of those who were suspected of having murdered him arrived in their city, they rose and massacred him.

Bordeaux, and the province of which it was the capital, maintained its connexion with England during the reigns of Henry IV. and V.; but in the reign of Henry VI., upon the downfall of the English power in France, the connexion was broken. In 1451 the Bordelois capitulated to Charles VII. of France on favourable terms; but very shortly after they revolted to the English, and the valiant Talbot, Earl of Shrewsbury, then upwards of eighty, was sent with an army to their support. The death of Talbot and the destruction of his army forced them again to submit to the French king (1453), on much harder conditions. To secure the fidelity of the Bordelois, and to prevent any attempts from the English, Charles caused to be erected the Château Trompette and the Castle of Ha.

The events which preceded and accompanied the submission of Bordeaux to the French tended much to reduce its population and to diminish its grandeur; the favour shown to it by the Kings of France tended, however, to revive it. But an insurrection excited by the oppressive effect of the gabelle, or tax upon salt, brought new calamities. In the year 1548 the people rose, and being assisted by the country folks of Guienne or the neighbouring provinces, committed great excesses; and when the tumult was quelled, the brutal Montmorenci, constable of France, inflicted terrible severities upon the unhappy townsmen.

The progress of the Reformation in France having alarmed the supporters of the dominant church, several Protestants were put to death. In this persecution the local authorities of Bordeaux took a conspicuous part, and several persons were burnt by their order. The new opinions however spread, and in 1561 there were about seven thousand of the Reformed in this city. When the religious animosities broke out into open warfare, the Protestants, in 1563, endeavoured to surprise the Château Trompette, but the attempt failed. When the massacre of St. Bartholomew was made the signal of a general attack on the Protestants

throughout France, Bordeaux had its share in the atrocity. Two hundred and sixty-four Protestants were butchered here. In the reign of Louis XIII. in 1635, the weight of taxation gave rise to another insurrection, and some blood was shed in its suppression, which was effected by the resolution and activity of the Duc d'Epernon, governor of Guienne.

In 1649, during the minority of Louis XIV., new troubles arose between the local authorities in the parliament* of Bordeaux and the Duc d'Epernon, son of the one just mentioned, governor of Guienne. Troops were raised, and hostilities ensued both by land and sea. The court supported the Duc d'Epernon: the parliament of Paris supported that of Bordeaux. The commandant of the Château Trompette having fired on the city, that fortress was attacked and taken by the troops of the parliament. A short peace was only the prelude to new troubles between the parliament and the court, at which Cardinal Mazarine was then paramount. Bordeaux was besieged by the royal forces; but peace was concluded in the autumn of 1649 or 1650. When the war of the Fronde broke out, on the return of Cardinal Mazarine to France in 1652, the Bordelois took part with the Prince of Condé against the Cardinal; and their city was consequently blockaded in 1653. The troubles were concluded by a treaty agreed to the same year; and Dureteste, one of the leaders of the Bordelois, was executed; the other chiefs escaped by flight or the intercession of those who had influence at court. New troubles having sprung up in 1675, the parliament of Bordeaux was removed from that city by a royal edict; part of the city wall was broken down; troops were quartered upon the inhabitants; and other measures of severity were resorted to to bridle the population of a city which had given so much uneasiness to the central government. In 1690 the parliament, which had been transferred successively to Condom and La Reole, was re-established at Bordeaux; and the city enjoyed a century of peace until the outbreak of the French Revolution. (Histoire de la Ville de Bordeaux, par Devienne.) When the municipal freedom of Bordeaux was restricted by the advance of arbitrary power under Louis XIV., the city had not by any means reached its present extent. Beyond the walls, which Piganiol de la Force (A.D. 1722) describes as old and strengthened here and there with square and round towers, were the Fauxbourgs les Chartrons (on the river just below Bordeaux), St. Seurin, St. Eulalie, St. Julien, and Ste. Croix. The three forts, Château Trompette, Ha, and Ste. Croix, or St. Louis, served at once to protect the city from foreign attacks, and to restrain the movements of the citizens. The erection of the first and second by Charles VII. has been already noticed; the third was built by order of Louis XIV. after the suppression of the disturbances of 1675. The Château Trompette stood on the bank of the river at the entrance of the port, and was between the city itself and the suburb of Les Chartrons. Louis XIV. caused Vauban to strengthen it by new works; and it remained entire till the Revolution; after which its advanced works were demolished, and a communication thus opened between the Quai des Chartrons and Quais of the city. It was intended to remove the whole building, but its existence was prolonged under the empire of Napoleon. Upon the restoration of the Bourbons the citizens desired and obtained its demolition; and handsome streets or fine plantations and walks now occupy the space not long since covered by barracks, or else quite vacant. The Castle of Ha was towards the land, and was suffered to fall into decay under the monarchy. There only remains of it one tower, occupied as a prison. The fort of St. Louis, or Ste. Croix, has almost disappeared. It stood near the river at the opposite extremity of the town to the Château Trompette. The walls have for the most part been demolished, and the turrets of the antient palace de l'Ombrière are hidden by a triumphal arch and by the custom-house.

Although the disasters of Bordeaux in the seventeenth century deprived it of the power of resistance to the monarchy, yet in local affairs the city appears to have been left in the enjoyment of some degree of freedom. The municipal government was in the hands of a 'maire' and six jurats these jurats were elective officers, and chosen, two each, from the nobility, the body of advocates, and the merchants. These authorities possessed, under the mo

*The parliaments of France were courts of justice of high authority; they were composed both of laymen and ecclesiastics. They registered the royal decrees and transmitted them to the lower courts.

[ocr errors]

narchy, greater powers than the municipality has enjoyed the Revolution; and the Place itself assumed for the time
since. The police of the town and the public instruction the designation of Place de la Liberté. The Place Dau-
were under their charge, and in respect of the latter Bor-phine is of tolerably regular form and considerable extent,
deaux seems to have lost rather than gained by subsequent but the houses are not remarkably good. The most noble
political changes. Even under the arbitrary government of of the Places of Bordeaux is that formed on the site of the
Louis XIV. and his successors these local authorities seem Château Trompette, and called formerly Place de Louis
to have acted with considerable judgment and public spirit. Seize, and now Place de Louis Philippe Premier. This is
When the Revolution broke out in 1789 the Bordelois open to the river on one side, on the other it is crossed by
partook of the general fervour in the cause of liberty. Their the Cours Douze Mars,* beyond which the Place is enclosed
intercourse with the Anglo-American States had prepared by a range of houses forming a crescent. On the sides are
their minds for rejoicing in the establishment of a freer go- plantations of trees, forming the Allées d'Angoulême and
vernment. The city became the capital of the department de Berri. This Place or square, including the Allées, is
of Gironde; from which were sent some of the most eloquent about a quarter of a mile in diameter each way. The most
members of the Legislative Assembly, Vergniaud, Guadet, magnificent street is that of the Chapeau Rouge, which is
Gensonné, and others. From the influence of these men, scarcely inferior to any in Europe. In length and breadth
the party in the Assembly to which they belonged took the it may be compared with Portland Place in London: it
name of Girondists. When the Royalists committed great contains most elegant shops. There are several Cours,
excesses against the Protestants of Montauban, Bordeaux public walks, or streets lined with trees, some of great
contributed largely to the military force which marched length: the Cours d'Albret is nearly half a mile long, and the
against that city. When the Girondist party was over- Cours de Tourny and du Jardin Public form together a line
thrown, and several of its leaders executed, others took of three-quarters of a mile. The Jardin Public itself is partly
refuge in the south of France, and of these Valadi, Salles, planted, and partly open, and occupies a space about equal
Guadet, and Barbaroux, having been discovered, were exe- to that of the Place Louis Philippe Premier, but is more ir-
cuted at Bordeaux, and dreadful severities were perpetrated regular in form. The Allées de Tourny consisted of three
by the deputies whom the Convention sent thither. When rows of trees, forming a charming promenade, much fre-
the Royalists sought in 1799 to excite a re-action in the quented in summer evenings: these trees have been de-
south, they opened some communications with their adhe- stroyed. (Milford's Observations during a Tour, &c., Lond.
rents in this city, but the movement was defeated. Under 1818; Mathews's Diary of an Invald, Lond. 1820; Malte
the empire, the inhabitants desired the return of peace, the Brun; Balbi; Plan of Bordeaux, by the Society for the
long interruption to which caused the decay of their com Diffusion of Useful Knowledge.)
merce; but they received with honours the Emperor Na-
poleon and his empress Josephine in 1808. The kings of
Spain, Ferdinand VII. and his father, Charles IV., passed
through the city the same year.

In 1814 the combined English, Spanish, and Portuguese
forces, under the Duke of Wellington, invaded France.
Their advance encouraged the Royalist party, which had
continued to exist at Bordeaux, though in a very feebleness; while according to another (M. Millin) it injures the
state; and on the 12th of March, M. Lynch, the mayor,
advanced to meet a detachment of English troops, received
them into the city, and hoisted the white flag. When Bona-
parte returned from Elba in 1815, and the royal family fled
in different directions, the Duchesse d'Angoulême sought
to make a stand at Bordeaux; but the national guard and
the troops of the line refusing their aid, she was compelled
to withdraw. Upon the arrival of the intelligence of the
'Ordonnances of Charles X. in 1830, the Bordelois broke
out into insurrection, and the tri-color was substituted for
the white flag of the Bourbons before the news arrived of
the successful insurrection at Paris.

The principal increase of the buildings of Bordeaux has taken place towards the north, or, following the course of the river, the lower part of the city, with which the former suburbs of Les Chartrons and St. Seurin are now united. In the older part, that is in Bordeaux properly so called, the streets are narrow and crooked, and the places or open spaces irregular; but not so in the new parts, in the Quartier des Chartrons, which is the residence of the merchants, and in the Quartier du Chapeau Rouge, which is on the site of the Château Trompette. The approach by water is magnificent. The width of the Garonne, which is here from 600 to 800 yards wide, twice the breadth of the Thames at London, and the curve which it makes, render the prospect of the city on this side very striking. The dock-yards, the rope-walk, the Custom-house, the Exchange, and the fine buildings of the Quai des Chartrons, extend along the line of the river to a great distance.* The bridge excites astonishment by its length; and the quantity of shipping in this noble port, which will contain 1000 vessels, and admits those of greatest tonnage, adds liveliness to the scene.

The houses are of great magnificence, and fitted up in a manner corresponding to the wealth and commerce of the place. The inhabitants are reputed to live in a style of greater splendour and luxury than in any town in France, Paris only excepted. Many private equipages are kept, and the fiacres are superior to the hackney coaches of London. The Place Royale, which is on the bank of the river, is remarkable rather for the buildings which surround it than for its extent. It was formerly adorned with an equestrian statue of Louis XV., but this was overthrown at

Expilly, in his 'Dictionnaire des Gaules et de la France' (1762), speaks of the Chartrons as perhaps the finest and most extensive suburb of any in Europe. Martinière, at a still earlier date, speaks in the same manner.

The public buildings are numerous and splendid. The Bourse or Exchange, and the Douane or Custom House, form the two sides of the Place Royale. The Bourse is a square building, inclosing a square court surrounded by a piazza; this court is now converted into a room, being covered with a light glazed dome, which, according to one writer (Malte Brun), is remarkable for its beauty and lighteffect which the building would otherwise produce. The height of this dome or roof from the floor is seventy-eight feet, and the space which it covers is ninety-eight feet by sixty-five. The Entrepôt or store for Colonial Produce on the Place Laine, which opens on to the Quai des Chartrons, is remarkable for its extent and beauty; and there are various other buildings for the purposes of commerce which deserve the notice of the traveller. The ship-building yards are towards the southern extremity of the line of quays, and the Victualling Office is on the Quai de Bacalan at the northern end. Ships of war are occasionally built here; a frigate and two brigs were built for Ferdinand VII. of Spain, on occasion of one of the expeditions fitted out against the colonies of South America. The Hôtel de Ville, or Town hall, is of Gothic architecture, and has no particular beauty to recommend it. The Palais de Justice has in its hall a statue of Montesquieu. The Palais or Château Royal is an extensive and handsome building, with a good garden at the back of it: it was formerly the residence of the Archbishop, and was converted to its present use at the restoration of the Bourbons. There are several theatres: the principal one is in the Rue Chapeau Rouge, but fronts the Place de la Comedie, and is on a scale, both as to extent and magnificence, which renders it equal to most in Europe. It was built in the reign of Louis XVI., and is capable of accommodating 4000 persons. Its front has a portico of twelve Corinthian columns, and the frieze is crowned by a balustrade adorned with twelve statues. (Malte Brun; Balbi; Reichard; Mathews, &c.)

The bridge over the Garonne is of stone and about 531 English yards long. It has seventeen arches; the seven in the centre are of the same size, their span being eighty-seven English feet; the arch nearest to the bank on each side is of sixty-eight feet span. The breadth of the bridge between the parapets is fifty feet; the roadway is nearly level. This bridge was begun during the reign of Napoleon in 1811, but was not finished until after the Restoration in 1821. The road from Paris to Bordeaux passes over it; and after crossing the bridge the traveller enters the city through the Porte de Bourgogne (Gate of Burgundy), which was erected on occasion of the birth of the Duc de Bourgogne, grandson of Louis XIV.

The 12th of March, 1814, was the day on which the municipal authorities surrendered the keys of the town to the English, and embraced the party of the Bourbons.

« 前へ次へ »