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triotism it is impossible to doubt. His generosity to the benefactors of his country was unbounded. An instance may be given from the letter which he wrote to the celebrated Joseph Lancaster, who visited Colombia for the purpose of introducing his system of elementary instruction. It is preserved in the 28th volume of the Revue Encyclopédique, dated Lima, March, 1825, and addressed to the teacher at Caracas. After giving an order for 20,000 dollars, and promising to procure the appropriation of a million more, besides a large contribution of his own for the purpose of establishing schools, the liberator concludes with Receive the expression of my admiration, respect, and gratitude, for coming to my country to bring to my young fellow citizens the benefits of elementary education. The 46th volume of the same work may be consulted for an exposition of the progress of social and mental improvement in Colombia during the first five years of the republican government. According to General Holstein, the ecclesiastical power is still predominant, the clergy being at once members of the senate, officers in the army, and parish priests. It is therefore not surprising to find in the new constitution adopted in the year of Bolivar's death, the declaration that none but the Catholic religion shall be tolerated. For those who desire to read the history of Bolivar's campaigns, the map of Colombia in the work of Captain Cochrane may be named as useful for reference, being constructed on a comprehensive scale. A fine portrait of Bolivar was published in Paris, in 1826, by Maurin, price five francs. There is also an excellent one in the The Gallery of Portraits' of the Society for the Diffusion of Useful Knowledge.

western frontier is formed by the republic of Peru. It borders on the north-east and east on the empire of Brazil, except the most south-eastern corner, where it joins Paraguay. To the south of it extends the republic of Buenos Ayres, and where it approaches the Pacific, that of Chili.

As nearly the whole of this country is situated within the tropics, it might be expected that its climate and productions would correspond to its geographical situation; but perhaps not more than one-half of its surface has a tropical climate. The other half is occupied by high mountain-ranges, table-lands of great elevation, high valleys, and widely extending slopes. This mountainous portion of Bolivia belongs to the great range of the Andes. Where the Andes running from south to north enter Bolivia they send off at about 24° N. lat. a lateral branch to the east, which extends to a great distance, and separates the affluents of the Rio Bermejo from those of the Pilcomayo, both of which fall into the Paraguay on its right bank. This lateral mountain-range, which constitutes the southern boundary of Bolivia and separates it from Buenos Ayres, is very little known; it does not seem to rise to a very great height, but is extremely rugged and barren. The principal chain of the Andes here runs nearly south and north, and is likewise little known, but contains some peaks which rise above the snow line. The Nevado de Chorolque (21° 30′ S. lat.) is said to rise to 16,548 feet, but is probably higher. Up to this mountain the Andes seem to form a single and undivided range from the southern extremity of Chili; but to the north of it at about 20° there is an extensive mountain-knot, called the Cordillera de los Lipez (19° 30' S. lat.); the mountains divide into two great The expression of Bolivar's features was that of anxiety longitudinal ridges, which run parallel to one another and and care; and the great severity of his labours had given bound an immense interalpine valley or table-land, called him, at the age of forty-five, the appearance of sixty. In the valley of Desaguadero, which includes the great lake of height he was five feet five inches; his complexion dark, and Titicaca. The western ridge, called the Western Cordillera, approaching to olive; his hair black and stiff, like that of continues, as far as it lies within the boundaries of Bolivia, the American Indians, but inclined to curl; and his eye, a due northern course, and contains near the boundary-line when animated in conversation, remarkably vivid and several snow-capped peaks, of which the highest, called bright. He was capable of enduring great fatigue, was a Gualatieri, rises to 22,000 feet. To the north of these peaks, remarkably bold horseman, and excessively fond of dancing but within the limits of Peru, the range declines some dein his boots and spurs. He entertained in the most muni- grees to the west, running parallel to the coast, and here ficent style, but was himself extremely abstemious. He other snow mountains occur. [PERU.] particularly excelled,' says General Miller, in giving elegant and appropriate extempore replies. On one occasion he delivered seventeen unpremeditated answers in succession, each of which if printed off as he spoke it would have been admired for its peculiar adaptation to the occasion. In proposing a toast, in returning thanks, or in speaking impromptu upon any given subject, General Bolivar was probably never surpassed.'

The eastern ridge, called the Eastern Cordillera or Cordillera Real, separates from the mountain-knot north of Porco (19° 50′), and of Potosi (19° 38'). The metalliferous mountains which surround Porco may be considered as constituting its southern extremity, and the celebrated mountain or Cerro of Potosi also belongs to it. From this point the cordillera runs north, inclining a little to the west, to the Nevado de Illimani (16° 40′). Between Potosi and this

BOLIVIA is the name adopted by one of the new re-summit no part of the range attains an elevation of 17,000 publics which have lately been formed in South America. It was originally called Upper Peru, and formed a portion of the viceroyalty of Buenos Ayres or de la Plata; but being separated from the more populous parts of Buenos Ayres by the desert of Chaco, and a very rugged and dreary mountain-region, it was not likely that it could remain united to that State after the subversion of the Spanish authority. The republic of Bolivia dates from the battle of Ayacucho, Dec. 9, 1824, in which the republicans under Sucre completely defeated the royalists. The patriots adopted for their new republic the name of Bolivia, in honour of General Bolivar,

The most northern angle of Bolivia_ is the peninsula formed by the confluence of the rivers Beni and Mamore, in about 9° S. lat., from which point the united river is called Madera. The most southern point is on the shores of the Pacific at the Bahia de Nuestra Señora, between Punta del Norte and Punto del Sur, about 25° S. lat. It consequently extends over 16° of lat., or upwards of a thousand miles, from north to south. The most eastern part is contiguous to the river Paraguay, where after leaving Brazil it forms for some space the boundary between Bolivia and Paraguay, and extends to 57° 30′ W. long. The most western portion of the republic borders on the Pacific at Punta del Norte, about 70° 30′ W. long. Under the parallel of 22° the extent of the country from east to west may be about 750 miles, but towards the north it is less. The mean width may be about 500 miles, and the mean length 700, which gives a surface of 350,000 square miles, or about three times the extent of the British Islands. Bolivia is bounded on the west for about 260 miles by the Pacific Ocean; the remainder of its western and north

feet, none being enveloped in snow during the entire year, for this elevation constitutes, according to the opinion of Pentland, the inferior limit of perpetual snow in this portion of the Andes. The Illimani forms a serrated ridge with four peaks rising to the height of 24,000 feet, or 7000 above the snow line. At this point the range somewhat changes its direction, continuing nearly due north-west, and forming an almost continuous line of snowy mountains till it joins the ridge called the Andes of San Juna del Oro and of Vilcañota, which between 14° and 15° extend nearly east and west, and again connect the two ranges of the Andes. In this portion of the Eastern Cordillera in lat. 16° 10' is the Nevado de Sorata, the highest peak of the Andes, rising to 25,250 feet, consequently 3814 feet higher than Chimborazo (21,436 feet according to Humboldt) and only inferior to a few peaks of the Himalaya Mountains.

Both chains of mountains, with the intermediate valley of the Desaguadero, occupy a breadth of upwards of 230 miles to the north of 18°, but to the south of that parallel they are upwards of 300 miles in width. The length of this mountain mass is about 420 miles, and it consequently covers a surface of upwards of 100,000 square miles, of which however nearly one-fourth belongs to the republic of Peru.

It is remarkable that the summits of the Western Cordillera either present the form of a truncated cone, or of a dome, and that about them are numerous indications of their having once been volcanoes, and some of them still eject ashes; the higher parts of the Eastern Cordillera are either pointed peaks or notched ridges, and no volcanic products are found near them.

The valley of the Desaguadero, which lies between two ranges, with a mean elevation above the sea estimated

at 13,000 feet, runs in its southern portion nearly parallel to the meridian, but north of lat. 17° it forms an angle of almost 35° with that line, running very nearly northwest-by-north, and south-east-by-south. Not having any outlet towards the sea, the rivers which descend into it are either lost in the sandy soil, or empty themselves into the lake of Titicaca at its northern extremity. This lake, the largest in the South American continent, occupies an area of about 4600 square miles, and its surface is 12,795 feet above that of the Pacific. In some places its depth has been ascertained to be 120 fathoms, but many parts are probably much deeper. This lake receives numerous streams at its northern extremity, but not all the waters which descend from the sides of the mountain-ridges. It is remarkable that the watershed on the eastern part of the valley of the Desaguadero, and as it would seem also on the western, is not formed by the high ranges, but by two low lateral ridges distant from twenty to thirty miles from the lake, and generally rising from 500 to 1000 feet above its level. The waters collected between these lateral ridges and the high mountain-ranges descend eastward to the plains traversed by the river Madeira and its upper branches; and westward towards the sea. The only outlet of the lake of Titicaca is the river Desaguadero, which issues from its south-western extremity in lat. 16° 38' 10", and is a small stream when compared with the immense extent of the lake. Its depth however is considerable, but its velocity is scarcely two miles an hour. It runs southward, and forms near 19 a lake, called Lago del Desaguadero, in which it is lost. Its course between both lakes may be 180 miles.

The lake of Titicaca contains numerous small islands, which rise directly from the water's edge to a considerable height. That from which it has taken its name, and which is known in the history of the antient Peruvians as the place where Manco Capac made his appearance, is situated at the south-east extremity. Both the southern part of this lake, which bears the name of Laguna de Umamarea, and the eastern shores, nearly in their whole extent, belong to Bolivia.

The climate of the valley of the Desaguadero offers many peculiarities. Being in its lowest parts upwards of 13,000 feet above the level of the sea, the heat is never great, nor is the cold very sensible, except during the night from May to November. This season, which is the winter, is extremely dry, the sky is cloudless, and neither rain nor snow is known to fall. But snow precedes and follows the rainy season, which in this valley begins at the end of November, and continues through the summer months to the beginning of April. During these months it rains nearly every day, more or less; but during the night the sky is clear, and no clouds are observed: snow falls only in November and April.

boats and sails with which they navigate the lake; mats made of them are the bed of the poor, and serve in the houses of the rich as carpets.

From this valley six mountain-passes traverse the western Cordillera to the Pacific Ocean. Their highest points rise to nearly 15,000 feet above the sea, and consequently they are not inferior to the mountain-passes of the Himalaya in elevation. The ascent to these passes from the valley is only 2000 feet, and the slope is gentle; but the descent to the sea is exceedingly rapid. The highest point of the great range being close on the maritime declivity of the Cordillera, and consequently at an inconsiderable distance, not exceeding sixty miles, from the sea, the descent must be extremely precipitate and abrupt. A traveller coming from the coast finds himself transported in a few hours from the valleys on the Pacific to the arid regions of the Cordillera, at an elevation exceeding 15,000 feet.

That portion of Bolivia which extends between the Andes and the Pacific, in length upward of 250 miles between the Bahia de Nuestra Señora and the small river Loa, does not differ much from the coast which extends northward to Guayaquil in Columbia, and southward to Coquimbo in Chile. All this coast, which is nearly 1800 miles in length, with a breadth varying from thirty to sixty miles, may be considered as a line of sandy deserts. It presents great undulations of surface, and were it not for the stupendous back-ground, which reduces every other object to a comparatively diminutive size, the sand hills might sometimes be called mountains. This long line of deserts is intersected by rivers and streams, which are seldom less than twenty, nor more than eighty or ninety miles apart. Along them are found the only places which are inhabited; and the narrow strips on each bank of every stream are peopled in proportion to the supply of water. During the rainy season in the interior the rivers swell prodigiously, and can only be crossed by a balsa, which is a raft of frame-work fastened upon four bull-hides sewed up, made air-tight, and filled with wind. A few of the large rivers reach the sea, but most of those of the second order are consumed in irrigating the cultivated patches, or are absorbed by the desert, where neither birds, beasts, nor reptiles are ever seen, and where a blade of vegetation never grows. Sometimes the banks of the rivers are too steep and rugged to admit of the water being applied to the purposes of irrigation, and consequently the surrounding country cannot be cultivated. No traveller can go from valley to valley without a guide, for there are no marks to guide his steps. The sand is frequently raised into immense clouds by the wind, to the great annoyance of the traveller, who generally rides with his face muffled up.

That portion of this coast called Atacama, which beThe vegetation of this valley has also a very peculiar longs to Bolivia, is by far the worst. But the greatest character. There are no trees, but the lower districts, es- part of Bolivia is situated to the east of the Andes, and pecially near the great lake, are covered with the most this portion may be divided into the mountainous district beautiful green turf where the land is not cultivated. The and the plains. The mountain-district extends along the cultivation is limited to a few things; wheat, rye, and barley eastern side of the Andes, and is not of great extent to the are indeed sown, but they do not ripen, and are cut green north of 17° 40', because the slope of the Eastern Cordillera as fodder for the llamas. The plantations of quinoa (Che- towards the plains is nearly as rapid as that of the Western nopodium quinoa, Linn.) are extensive, and also of pota- towards the sea, and the branches which this chain sends toes, which are found growing wild in some more elevated off extend to no great distance from the principal range. places; these plantations extend to a considerable distance But at about 17° 10' S. lat.. a mountain-range detaches itup the sides of the adjacent hills. There are no peculiar sea-self from the Eastern Cordillera, which runs generally due sons for sowing or harvest, and the natives are continually east for upwards of 200 miles. This branch rises near the occupied either in performing the one or the other operation. city of Cochabamba, above the line of perpetual snow, in The country which extends between the ridges of hills the pointed peak called Nevado de Tinaira; farther eastand the high ranges contains for the most part undulating ward it gradually declines till it terminates on or near the plains, covered with a coarse grass, on which numerous herds banks of the Rio Guapai or Grande, at no great distance of llamas are fed. Here also the guanacos, alpacas, and west of the town of Santa Cruz de la Sierra. This chain vicuñas feed in a wild state. Besides these no wild animals is commonly called the Sierra of Santa Cruz. Between have been observed in the valley of the Desaguadero, except this ridge and that forming the boundary line towards a peculiar kind of hare, described by Mr. Bennet under the Buenos Ayres, which we have already noticed, extends name of Lagotis Cuvieri in the first volume of the Trans- the mountainous portion of Eastern Bolivia. Its western actions of the Zoological Society; and a small animal of boundary may be fixed at about 63° W. long. This country the family Rodentia, which in some places has so burrowed is traversed by many lateral ridges, which are offsets from the soil as to render travelling on horseback unsafe. The the great chain of the Andes, and form extensive valleys. numerous birds which visit the lake of Titicaca, and the fish, Many of these valleys sink slowly, and often maintain themhave not yet been described, nor even enumerated. The selves for a considerable extent at nearly the same elevation. condor is frequently met with on the mountains. Among This circumstance, as well as the width of the valleys, the spontaneous plants the rushes which grow along the renders them particularly fit for agriculture, and for the banks of the lake deserve to be noticed, as the entire want cultivation of tropical as well as extra-tropical productions. of trees has compelled the natives to apply them to nearly Many persons have considered these valleys as the most as many uses as the bamboo is employed in India. With fertile, and the most beautiful parts of South America. Here these rushes the natives build their huts, and make the the slopes of the mountains are generally covered with fine

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trees to a great height. This description however applies
only to the northern part, between 17° 30′ and 20°. Farther
south the valleys are narrower, and the ranges which enclose
them without wood, and nearly without vegetation; with
the exception of a few valleys, the only pasture for llamas
and guanacoes.

the Parana, the other great branch of the La Plata fron the Atlantic Ocean: this distance hardly exceeds sixty or seventy miles. Both these great rivers also rise nearly in the same parallel between 20° and 21°; their sources are 25° of long. distant from each other, or upwards of 1000 miles.

The Pilcomayo rises on the southern declivity of the mountain-knot called Cordillera de los Lipez, and running generally due east, is soon increased by numerous other streams, some of which are considerable, as the S. Juan, which rises about 22° 30′, and falls into the Pilcomayo from the south; the Paspaya, which rises in the neighbourhood of Potosi on the southern declivity of the eastern Cordillera and soon becomes navigable; and the Cachymayo, which rises not far from the source of the Cochabamba, and traverses the beautiful and well-cultivated valley of Chuquisaca. Soon after the junction with the Cachymayo, the Pilcomayo, continuing its eastern course, forms for about 100 miles the boundary-line between Bolivia and Buenos Ayres, when turning suddenly to the south it enters the desert called Grande Chaco, and leaves the territories of Bolivia.

No part of America has a greater abundance of water than this region. The rivers which descend from the eastern declivities are very numerous and contain a volume of water which cannot be exhausted by irrigation. These rivers may be considered as the true sources of the Amazon and La Plata rivers, being at a greater distance from the mouths of these rivers than any other streams. This is certainly true. as far as regards the Amazon; for the Cordillera Real contains the sources of the greatest of its tributaries, of the Rio Madeira. This large river is formed by the junction of two considerable streams, the Rio Beni and the Río Mamore, both of which descend from the Cordillera Real and unite their waters between 10° and 11° S. lat. The upper branches of the Rio Beni are the Rio Caca, the Rio Chuqueapo, and the Rio Quetoto. The Rio Quetoto, the most southern of them, rises where the Sierra de Santa Cruz detaches itself The whole eastern portion of Bolivia, from the banks of from the eastern Cordillera, and taking a N.E. and N. course the Pilcomayo and the frontier of Buenos Ayres to the enters the plain, where it soon meets the Chuqueapo, which junction of the Mamore and Beni, is one extensive plain, has its origin in the valley of the Desaguadero to the north-which from east to west extends about 200 miles, and from west of the Nevado de Illimani. The Chuqueapo, which south-east to north-west upwards of 700. A few isolated is only prevented by a low ridge from entering that river, ranges of hills rise in some parts, but neither their place after having passed the town of La Paz, traverses the great nor their height has been determined with any degree of chain (16° 55') through an enormous chasm. It then runs accuracy. In the southern part of this plain lies the waterfor nearly a hundred miles through a fine valley and joins shed between the affluents of the Amazon river and those of the Quetoto on entering the plain, After this junction the La Plata, but as far as our information goes it does not the river continues its northern course, dividing the appear to rise to any great height above the sea. This plain mountainous country from the eastern plains till it meets is principally watered by the Beni, the Mamore, and the the Rio Caca. The Caca, under the name of Mapiri, Ubahy, which in the rainy season, from October to April, inrises likewise in the valley of the Desaguadero, at no great undate the country along their banks to a considerable exdistance from the Nevado de Sorata towards the west, and tent. In many places there are lakes, and though none of running first north and then east, traverses by a deep them are very large, the exhalations, united with those from chasm, the Cordillera Real north of the Nevado de Yani, a the inundations, render the climate excessively humid. This high snow-capped peak. During a very tortuous course humidity, added to the heat which prevails all the year the Mapiri is joined by a great number of streams which round, gives rise to many dangerous diseases, and renders descend from the eastern declivity of the same Cordillera, this plain very unhealthy, especially for Europeans. This and by their union the Rio Caca is formed. This stream part of the republic has consequently been almost abandoned joins the united rivers Quetoto and Chuqueapo about 13° by the Creoles, though its great fertility would better repay 30, and the river formed by their junction is called Beni, the labour of the cultivator than any other district of the which name it preserves in its northern and north-north- country. Immense forests of high trees cover nearly the eastern course to its junction with the Mamore. Thus the whole of these plains, but their valuable products are entirely Beni brings to the Madeira all the waters from the eastern neglected, except that a considerable quantity of cocoa is and from a portion of the western declivities of the Cordillera gathered by the natives and brought to the towns of San Real, as well as a portion of those from the Sierra de Santa Lorenzo de la Frontera, La Paz, and Cochabamba. The Cruz. plantations consist commonly of mandiocca and maize, those of cotton and rice being rare; all the other tropical productions which might be cultivated with the greatest advantage are almost entirely negle, ted.

The other great branch of the Madeira, the Mamore,
rises under the name of Cochabamba in the western extre-
mity of the valley which bears the same name, and is dis-
tinguished by its cultivation and its numerous products. It
first runs E. by S. and afterwards due E., when being
swelled by many small rivers, it assumes the name of Rio
Grande. It afterwards makes a very large semicircular
sweep, by which it arrives at the town of Santa Cruz de la
Sierra, whence it runs N.W., and after uniting with the
Chaparé at about 16° 30' receives the name of Mamore,
and by degrees changes its N.W. course into a N. one.
The Chaparé is formed by four or five streams descending
from the northern declivity of the Sierra de Santa Cruz.
Before the Mamore unites with the Itanez, a large river
which rises in the western parts of Brazil, it receives the
waters of the Yacuma, whose source is at no great distance
from the banks of the Rio Beni, and which runs through an
extremely flat country. The Itanez [BRAZIL] is increased
before its junction with the Mamore by the river Ubahy,
which rises in a lake called Laguna Grande, in the country
of the Chiquitos, and is therefore also called Rio de Chiqui-
tos. It is said to run nearly parallel to the Mamore, but at
a considerable distance from it; but as this part of Bolivia |
is very little known, we have no certain information about
it. After the junction of the Mamore with the Itanez, the
river continues its northern course till it meets the Beni at
the most northern angle of Bolivia, from which point the
river has the name of Madeira.

The waters which descend from the eastern declivity of
the Andes south of 18° S. lat. go to the Pilcomayo, one of
the principal branches of the La Plata river. The Pilco-
mayo rises at nearly the same distance from the Parific as

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Where the borders of Bolivia, Brazil, and Paraguay meet, the Lake of Xarages extends along both banks of the river Paraguay, and their lake has repeatedly disappeared and reappeared on our maps. As far as it is known, there seems to be in this part of South America an extensive depression of the surface, which being traversed by a large river subject to a considerable annual increase of water, is by turns inundated and drained; but how far this depression of the surface extends is not determined, this portion of the South American continent being very little known.

Rain never falls on the coast along the Pacific. In the valley of the Desaguadero, in the mountain-region, and in the plains, the summer is the rainy season; but the rain is continual only in the plains. The mountains are subject to tremendous hail-storms, during which the traveller is obliged to halt, and the parts of the body which are exposed are so severely bruised and cut by the hailstones as to bleed copiously. Thunder-storms are also peculiarly severe in these elevated regions. In winter the traveller is subject to a temporary blindness called surumpi, which is caused by the rays of the sun being reflected from the snow, and rendering it impossible to open the eyelids for a single moment; the smallest ray of light becomes absolutely insupportable. This complaint generally continues two days. Earthquakes are very common along the coast of the Pacific, less so in the valley of the Desaguadero and the mountain-region, but in the plains they have not been observed.

The scanty productions of the Valley of the Desaguadero have been noticed. The few places on the coast which are

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cultivated produce no grain but maize: excellent fruits | though their food still consists partly of fish and game.
however grow, especially figs, olives, and melons, besides Some of them make excellent cotton cloth, and in general
pomegranates, plantains, and algarrovas (Prosopis dulcis, they have a taste for mechanical arts, and are good car-
Humb.), a kind of pulse, which grows to the length of a penters. They show also some talent for music and paint-
foot, with its seeds enveloped in a substance like cotton, ing, in which they were initiated by the Jesuits. But the
which is eaten. It is of a sourish taste, but very cooling. Indians who inhabit the Lower Beni below Reyes, and those
Cotton, a little sugar-cane, and the Arundo donax, of which on both sides of the Ubahy, as well as the Chiquitos, who
there are large plantations, are also cultivated.
occupy the country bordering on Brazil and Paraguay, still
lead a roving life, live mostly on wild roots and fruits, and
on game, and go naked.

The other portions of the republic, especially the beautiful
vales watered by the Cochabamba and Cachy Mayo, are
more fertile. As the levels which occur along their banks
are at different elevations above the sea, they abound in all
the fruits, grains, and other agricultural productions com-
mon to Europe and to tropical countries. Among the spon-
taneous products are cocoa, sarsaparilla, different species of
vanilla, copaiva balsam, and caoutchouc. The mighty forests
which line the rivers abound in the finest timber for all pur-
poses, especially for ship-building, and in trees which distil
aromatic and medicinal gums. The plantain is found in
abundance; and there is a species of cinnamon called by
the creoles the canela de clavo, which only differs in the
greater thickness of the bark and its darker colour from
that of the East Indies.

Besides the animals peculiar to the valley of the Desa-
guadero, there are the tapir, the jaguar, the leopard, six or
seven sorts of monkeys, and several amphibious creatures.
Of domestic animals, there are horses, asses, and mules,
but for sheep the climate is too warm. Great herds of
horned cattle find abundant pastures on the banks of the
rivers in the plains.

Many of the birds seem to be unknown to the naturalist.
There have however been noticed different kinds of parrots,
several species of turkeys, and a multitude of beautiful
singing birds, as the thrush, the whistler, and the maltico,
remarkable for its plumage and the sweetness of its note.
All the rivers, but especially those of the plains, abound
in fish; but the names given to them by travellers render
it difficult to determine if any of them resemble those of
Europe.

Gold is found in abundance in many places, but espe-
cially on the eastern declivity of the eastern Cordillera,
where it is washed down by rivers which run between slate-
mountains in narrow ravines. All the waters descending
from this range, which fall into the Beni or its branches,
carry down gold sand, but more particularly the small
river Tipuani, which falls into the Mapiri. The mines of
Potosi have long been considered as the richest in the world
for their produce of silver, but they are now little worked,
which is also the case with other silver mines. Copper is
likewise abundant at Corucuero, a small place about
seventy miles from La Paz, enormous masses of native
copper are found crystallized in the form of perfect cubes.
Though, according to some experiments, this ore contains
seven-eighths of pure copper, it cannot be turned to
any use, being found in very high mountains and at a
great distance from the coast. Besides these metals there
are ores of lead and tin; and saltpetre, brimstone, and

salt.

The inhabitants of Bolivia are composed of aborigines, and of people of foreign extraction. The aborigines form by far the greater portion of the population, probably more than three-fourths. They may be divided into those who speak the Quichua language, and those who speak different dialects. The Quichua language prevails among all the inhabitants of the coast and of the valley of the Desaguadero. Agriculture had been adopted by them before the arrival of the Europeans, and even at present it is their principal if not their exclusive occupation. But they make no improvement in agricultural operations, which may be attributed to their very feeble mental powers. They have been converted to the Catholic faith, but retain some ceremonies of their antient religion.

The natives who do not speak the Quichua language inhabit the eastern declivities of the Andes and the plains extending to the east of them. They are divided into a great number of tribes who speak different languages: in the province of Moxos alone there are thirteen tribes. Some of them have been converted to the Christian religion, and with their change of faith they have also partly changed their manners and mode of living. Instead of going naked, they wear a light dress of cotton, have fixed dwelling-places, and apply chiefly to agricultural pursuits,

The inhabitants of foreign extraction are either the descendants of Spaniards, or of Africans and the mixed races. The descendants of the Spaniards are most numerous in the mining districts, and in the valleys of the Cochabamba and Cachy Pilco, where they may be said to compose the great bulk of the inhabitants; they are much less numerous on the coast and in the valley of the Desaguadero, and their number in the plains is very small. The people of pure African blood are few in number, but the mixed races, which owe their origin to a mixture with negroes, are numerous on the coast; much less so in the mining districts, and in other parts very few of them are found.

The population of Bolivia has been differently stated. At first it was asserted that it amounted to 1,200,000 souls; but this is evidently an exaggeration. Immense tracts consist of barren deserts, others, though fertile, are not cultivated, and nearly uninhabited, and the bulk of the population is concentrated in two larger and several smaller valleys. More recent information has reduced the population to 630,000. As however no recent census has been taken, and several extensive districts, possessed by the independent Indians, are not even visited by Europeans, the population cannot be ascertained with any degree of certainty.

The republic of Bolivia is politically divided into five departments, and each department into provinces.

I. The department of Potosi comprehends the most southern portion of Bolivia, namely, the whole of the coast along the Pacific, the south-western part of the valley of the Desaguadero, and the southern part of the mountain-region as far north as the banks of the Pilco Mayo and Paspaya rivers. Nearly the whole of its surface is covered with sand or barren mountains, but as it contains numerous mines of silver at Potosi, Porco, and other places in the northern range, which have been long worked with considerable success, the country about them is more populous than any part of the republic, except the valleys of the Cachy Mayo and Cochabamba. It is divided into five provinces, Atacama, Lipez, Porco, Chayanta, and Chichas.

Except the capital, Potosi, this department contains no considerable place. Along the rocky coast there are some good harbours, and though the communication between the other parts of the country is rendered exceedingly difficult and expensive on account of the high mountains and the sandy desert along the coast, one of them, Cobija, at present called Puerto de la Mar, has been declared a free port, though it only contains about fifty families of Indians. Farther southward is the harbour of Tucapila.

II. The department of Charcas or Chuquisaca extends over the mountainous country between the rivers Paspaya and Rio Grande de la Plata, in which the valley of the Cachy Mayo is comprehended in all its extent, and a great portion of that of Cochabamba. A small part of the valley of the Desaguadero is also included within its limits. It contains some considerable mines, and is, with the following department, the most populous portion of Bolivia, on account of its fertility and the healthfulness of its climate. It is divided into six provinces, Zinti, Yamparães, Tomina, Pária, Orúro, and Carangas. Chuquisaca is the capital of Bolivia. Orúro in the valley of the Desaguadero, nearly 13,000 feet above the sea, contains upwards of 5000 inhabitants, in whose neighbourhood considerable silver-mines are worked. A road leading from Orúro to Potosi traverses the southern part of the eastern Cordillera, and rises in the mountain-pass of Tolapalia to 14,075 feet.

III. The department of Cochabamba lies to the north of the preceding, and comprehends the greatest part of the rich and well-cultivated valley of the Cochabamba or Guapai, the Sierra de Santa Cruz, and the fine valleys which lie on the northern declivity of this chain. Every kind of agricultural produce is here grown in abundance, and in some of the rivers which fall into the Chaparé gold is col

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lected. This department is divided into six provinces, Sa-
cába, Tapacarí, Arque, Palia, Clissa, Misque.

The capital of this department, Oropesa, contains about
16,000 inhabitants, and is the most industrious of the towns
of Bolivia, the manufacture of cotton goods and of glass
being carried on to some extent. It is situated at the
western extremity of the department in a fine valley, tra-
versed by the Codorillo, a branch of the Cochabamba. The
small town Cochabamba, from which the department has
received its name, lies on the banks of the river Guapäi or
Cochabamba.

IV. The department of La Paz extends over more than half of that part of the valley of the Desaguadero which belongs to Bolivia, and more particularly over the northern portion. It contains also the eastern Cordillera from the Nevado de Illimani northward, the numerous valleys which lie on the eastern declivity of that range, and that portion of the plain to the west of the Rio Beni. The lower part of the valleys and the plain are very fertile, but only a few spots are cultivated. The rivers bring down a great quantity of gold sand. It is divided into six provinces, Pacayes, Sicá-sica, Chulumani, Omasuyos, Larecája, and Apolobamba. It contains only one town of importance, the capital La Paz.

V. The department of Santa Cruz de la Sierra is by far the largest, and extends over nearly the whole plain which constitutes the eastern part of Bolivia. The greater part of it is still occupied by independent tribes of Indians; and other districts, where the Creoles had formerly settled, have been abandoned on account of their unhealthiness. It is divided into five provinces, Moxos, Chiquitos, Valle Grande, Pampas, and Baures. Some time ago it was reported that the inhabitants of this department were not inclined to join the republic, but intended to form a separate state under the name of Santa Cruz de la Sierra, but no certain information has reached us on this subject. The capital of it is San Lorenzo de la Frontera, not far from the old town Santa Cruz de la Sierra, on the banks of the Rio Grande de la Plata, with about 10,000 inhabitants.

Very little is known of the present political condition of this country. In 1825, when Buenos Ayres had renounced its claim on Upper Peru, and the representatives of the country determined to form an independent state, they adopted a constitution proposed by Bolivar, according to which the executive power was to be placed in the hands of a president chosen for life, and the legislative was to consist of three bodies, the senate, the tribunes, and the censors. At the same time Bolivar was chosen president. But the military force which Bolivar had sent to Bolivia, which consisted of Columbian troops, being expelled by an army from Peru, the constitution of Bolivar was abolished, and the Bolivians were left at liberty to make a new constitution. What kind of constitution has been adopted is not known.

| Tacna. The road connecting Tacna with La Paz traverses one of the two passes called Las Gualillias, of which the northern (17° 43′) rises to 14,200, and the southern (17° 50') to 14,830 feet, and though foreign commodities passing through any part of Peru have to pay a transitduty of 3 per cent., this road is preferred for the transport of merchandise. Few foreign commodities are imported into Bolivia. They are chiefly iron and hardware, with a few articles of finery, as silk, &c. The exports are nearly altogether limited to the precious metals, and to different kinds of woollens, made of the wool of the llamas and alpacas, and to hats made of the wool of the vicuñas. The agricultural products of this country will never be exported, till commerce has made its way up the Amazon and Madeira rivers.

Being as it were excluded from foreign commerce, the Bolivians are obliged to satisfy their wants by their own industry. The manufactures of cotton are the most extensive. The better kinds are made in Oropesa; but in many districts the Indians make great quantities, which are coarse though strong. Next to these are the woollens, made of the hair of the llamas and alpacas. The coarser kind, called hanascas, is used by the lower classes for dress, and likewise for blankets; the finer sorts, called cambis, are embroidered with great care, and used as carpets by the rich. The best are made at La Paz, and are very dear. At San Francesco de Atacáma very fine hats are made of the wool of the vicuña, and at Oropesa very good glass is made. In some towns in the neighbourhood of the silver-mines they make vessels of silver-wire, which are not without elegance, but Meyen thinks that those made in China are superior in taste and much cheaper. In some districts the Indians dye the plumes of the American ostrich with brilliant colours, and make of them fans and a kind of parasols. (Pentland and Parish in Geogr. Journ. V.; Meyen's Reise um die Welt; Memoirs of General Miller; Capt. Basil Hall; Temple; Azara.)

BOLLANDUS, JOHN, a learned Jesuit, was born at Thienen (Tirlemont) in the Netherlands, August 13th, 1596. He entered the Society of Jesus at the early though not unusual age of sixteen, and became eminent in it as a teacher both in the Netherlands and other countries. The share which he took in the Acta Sanctorum, or Lives of the Saints,' entitles him to especial notice.

The history of this work is not uninteresting, although the work itself, otherwise than for occasional consultation, defies time and patience. It consists of fifty-one volumes in folio, of the larger size and bulk. The design of this vast collection was first projected by Père Heribert Rosweida, a jesuit then of the age of sixty, and consequently too far advanced to execute much of his plan, which was to extend no further than sixteen volumes folio, with two volumes of illustrations: a trifle in those days, had he begun earlier. In 1607 he had begun by printing an octavo volume, entitled Fasti Sanctorum, consisting of the manuscript lives of some saints which he happened to find in the Netherlands; but he died Oct. 5th, 1629, before he could accomplish what he had undertaken. The execution of his project was then entrusted to Bollandus, who was about this time thirty-four years of age, and who removed from Mechlin to Antwerp for the purpose. After examining Rosweida's collections, he established a general correspondence all over Europe, instructing his friends to search every library, register, or repository of any kind, where information might be found; but becoming soon sensible of the weight of his undertaking, he called in the assistance of another Jesuit, Godfrey Henschen of Guelderland, younger than himself, more healthy, and equally qualified in other respects. With this aid he was enabled to publish the first two volumes, folio, Antwerp, 1643, which contain the lives of the saints of the month of January, the order of the Calendar having been preferred. In 1658 he published those of February in three volumes; and two years after, his labours still increasing, he engaged with another associate, Père Daniel Papebroch, at that time about thirty-two years old, whom he sent with Henschen to Italy and France, to collect manuscripts, but he died before the publication of another volume, Sept. 12th, 1665. After his death the work was continued by various hands, who were called Bollandists.' Henschen and Papebroch published the lives of the saints of the month of March in three volumes, Antw. 1668; and those of April in three volumes, 1675. The saints of the month of May occupy

No country, perhaps, is under greater disadvantages with
respect to commercial intercourse with foreign countries
than Bolivia, though possessing a coast of more than 250
miles, with several good harbours. The part which is con-
tiguous to the coast is a sandy desert, which produces nothing
fit for a foreign market, and it is separated from the rest
of the country by a chain of high and nearly impassable
mountains, up to the parallel of Potosi. Even if a road
were made in these parts, it would traverse a country
probably not less than 300 miles in extent, where neither
men nor animals could find food. The only road which
connects the coast with the internal districts of the republic,
runs on the comparatively level country along the shores,
and passes to the valley of the Desaguadero by the pass
of Leñas (19° 45') which rises to 14,210 feet, and thence
runs to Orúro and La Paz. But this road, like all others
in this country, is only practicable for mules and llamas,
and consequently does not allow the transport of very heavy
or very bulky commodities. To go from La Paz to the
more populous districts on the eastern side of the eastern
Cordillera, this high chain must be traversed by the pass
of Pacuani (16° 33'), which rises to 15,226 feet. Another
mountain-pass which leads from Orúro to Chuquisaca,
which rises to 14,700 feet, is called the Pass of Challa
(17° 40'). The difficulties encountered in travelling from
the port of Cobija to Orúro are so great, that though the
Bolivians have declared Cobija a free port, they hardly use
it, and prefer importing the small quantities of foreign com-
modities for which there is a demand, through Arica and

VOL. V.-N

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