Alcobaza, and without meeting an enemy. We entered the town with colours flying and bands playing, amidst the shouts from the inhabitants of Viva l'Inglitera,” &c. &c.

We learnt on our march this day, at a village about three miles from Alcobaza, that the French, after having reconnoitered our position on the night of the 13th, had immediately retired with their army in great haste towards Lisbon; but no one seemed to know the exact place to which they had retired. On our arrival at Alcobaza, where we took up our quarters, we learnt that the French had moved off from Alcobaza, with four thousand men, to Obidos. The convent of Alcobaza is one of the largest in Portugal; it contains from 150 to 200 monks. The church attached to the convent is most magnificent. The French took from this church two tons of silver, in lamps and other decorations. The great gate of this church is one of the most curious specimens of Gothic architecture I have seen. The interior of it is also very fine. Previously to its being plundered by the French, it contained the most costly decorations of any church in the kingdom.

Caldas, the 16th of August.

We quitted Alcobaza on the 14th, proceeding on our march to Caldas; and every step we took confirmed us in our opinion, that the day could not pass without an action. The enemy had made their retreat from Alcobaza in so precipitate a manner, that they had left undisturbed a bridge over a ravine, which we had to pass: had we found this bridge in any way damaged, our progress would have been greatly impeded. They also left behind them two waggons, which were loaded with stores and surgical instruments. Baron Tripp, who was sent forwards to reconnoitre, followed the enemy almost into Caldas; and Sir Arthur, feeling his way with the light troops, entered it without opposition.

Having marked out the ground for the main body of the army to take up its position just beyond the town, Sir Arthur left the light infantry, under the command of Generals Spencer and Fane, with orders to continue advancing till they discovered if the enemy had possession of a fortress, which was seen at about two miles distant from the road, on the Lisbon side of Caldas.

Owing to some misapprehension, a party of the nine

ty-fifth and sixtieth regiments advanced beyond the post they were intended to have occupied. The consequence was, they were attacked by a detachment of the French, much superior in numbers to their own, aided by the enemy's whole rear guard of 1200 men; and we were surprized while at dinner, with the arrival of Captain Elliot, who informed us, that the enemy had attacked our advanced posts with considerable advantage.

Before we could get to the scene of action, this skir mish was over; and the next morning, on visiting the lines with the Commander-in-Chief, it appeared that our loss consisted of from twenty to twenty-five men. The French having retreated after this affair, we took up our advanced posts at Obidos.

Caldas is famous for its natural warm mineral baths. They have a strong sulphureous smell, and the water has a metallic taste. The Royal Family and Court of Portugal annually resort to this place, for the benefit of bathing. Caldas is, however, but a mean town, and ill calculated for the reception of a court, or the principal inhabitants of any country. The house we occupy was the one set apart for the Royal Family: a more miserablė dirty abode I hardly ever saw. The chief recommendations of the place are its fine botanical garden, and an

H

extensive, well-built, and well-regulated hospital, situated near the baths.

Vimiera, August 20th, 1808.

On the 7th instant, proceeding in our march from Caldas, we discovered from the summit of an old Moorish castle (near which the affair of the 15th took place), the French army, apparently drawn out in order of battle. General Ferguson's brigade was ordered to form a separate column, and attack the enemy on their right. The main body of the army advancing nearly in a parallel direction to General Ferguson, an action took place, which soon became general. The French retreated, and led us into a labyrinth of narrow passages, and apparently inaccessible heights. The first attack, made by General Ferguson, commenced at nine A. M., and the firing of the two contending armies had entirely ceased before five P. M. The French, after having been repeatedly forced from their positions, were compelled to make a final retreat; but not without attempting, by three desperate attacks, to regain the heights which they had lost.

Owing to our want of cavalry, the enemy, after the third attack, were enabled to make the most scientific and beautiful retreat that has, perhaps, ever been witnessed. Captain Bradford, as well as Colonels Lake and

Stuart, were killed in this affair; and Captain Elphinstone, of the engineers, was severely wounded.

The loss our army sustained, is estimated at from 450 to 500 men. The enemy's loss is not known ; but from the numbers of slain discovered in all parts of the field of battle, it must have been more considerable than ours. We took some prisoners, two of which are officers of distinction. It was also confidently asserted that Laborde had been severely wounded in the neck. The name of the pass in the mountains, which we forced, was Arumbra; near which place the troops halted on the night of the 17th, and proceeded on the 18th to Lourinha.

On this morning, while we were formed in order of march on our ground, and about to proceed forwards and offer the enemy battle, Captain Gordon, General Anstruther's aid-de-camp brought to camp the intelligence of that General's arrival off the fortress of Penichè. On our road to Vimiera, and since our arrival here, we have learnt that Laborde has been joined by Junot, with the greater part of the French forces in Portugal, making an army of sixteen or eighteen thousand men, they occupying a position in the neighbourhood of Rio Major, about two leagues distant from us. It is a singular fact, that in this neighbourhood the Portuguese were evidently unwilling to re