THE FABBRICHE.

235

as we keep our carriages, and the livery of the gondoliers distinguishes the owner. These gondolas are always kept moored near the door of the water-front of the palaces and dwellings (for nearly every building in the city has both a land and water front), and are sometimes quite costly and ornamental, although the shape and color are nearly always the same. As the Grand Canal corresponds with Broadway, so the public gardens may be called the Battery of Venice. They greatly resemble, in situation and appearance, this favorite resort of the New Yorkers. After spending a short time at these gardens, we returned to the Place of St. Mark, and began winding our way through the dark, narrow, crooked, serpentine streets of the city, until we again found ourselves in the neighborhood of the Rialto. We considered it quite a feat that we had accomplished, in reaching this celebrated bridge by dry land, and as a reward for the accomplishment, we lingered in its vicinity. Near it, are the dilapidated Fabbriche, the warehouses of the rich merchants of old Venice, in the palmiest days of the Doges, when all Arabia breathed from those avenues, that now emit most unearthly odors. Here once were piled up those rich cloths and velvets and handsome silks and heavy mirrors, that were famous throughout all Europe; and here were collected the richest treasures and most precious stones of Asia and Africa, that had been brought back by Venetian argosies in exchange for the productions of

the republic. Decay now sits brooding over these dilapidated buildings. The commerce and wealth of old Venice have been diverted into other channels, and the ruined Fabbriche, almost deserted, show how provident were the Venetians, when they placed the figure of Fortune, that is constantly turning, on the top of their Dogana, as indicating the fickleness of commerce;-fickle, in its change from place to place, but constant in its obedience to the laws of trade!

On we walked, however, through small, irregular squares, curious, antique courts, and narrow defiles, and past tawny, Eastern faces, and Venetians of singular aspect, until, by the aid of a gondola, we found ourselves at the gate of the Ghetto Vecchio. We entered the quarters of the chosen people, and hunted our way through filth and long beards and sinister looks, to the synagogue of the Israelites! It is not strange, that the wealthier and more cultivated of the Jews availed themselves of the earliest permission to abandon this uninviting prison-house of their fathers. It is not very strange, if Antonio and his friends aided in confining the wealthy Shylock to these pent-up quarters (whatever may have been, at the time, their condition and their cleanliness), that the Israelite should have borne some unkind feeling towards his oppressors!

Part of the last day that we spent at Venice, we were occupied rather singularly. Near the

mole that terminates the Piazzetta, stand the two columns of granite, so closely identified with the 'history of Venice. We stood watching the empty space between them. On the one stands the Lion of St. Mark, the famous Lion, that travelled to Paris and back; on the other, is a crocodile supporting Saint Theodore. These columns were brought from Constantinople. Originally they

carried away three. One of them was lost in the Lagoon, and the two remaining ones were landed in safety at the wharf. Several unsuccessful efforts were made to raise them, and place them in their present position. At last a reward was offered. It was published that any "reasonable request" would be granted to the man, who should succeed in setting up these granite columns. Nicolo, surnamed Barattiero (the Blackleg), undertook the doubtful job, and succeeded in his undertaking. For some time, it was doubtful what would be the request that he would make of the Doge, in return for his services, and the public of Venice anxiously awaited the gratification of their curiosity. Gambling was forbidden in Venice, and in the twelfth century it was dangerous to do anything that was forbidden at Venice. Nicolo, at last, asked that gambling should be allowed in the space between the columns. The request was not unreasonable, and could not be denied him. It was not long,, however, before the Council decreed, that the place of execution should thereafter be changed, and that criminals, instead of

being hung, at San Giovanni Brogole, should thereafter be suspended between the granite columns of the Piazzetta. The place became a place of dread and of ill omen. It was considered unlucky even to cross it, and the profitable occupation of Nicolo was destroyed. He lost his reward, but he bequeathed a superstition to the Venetians, and a name to gamblers throughout the world. We stood, and watched the space, this morning, for hours, and whether from the tradition or from accident, not one person crossed it, although hundreds were passing down the Piazzetta, and were turning to the right or the left, as they reached the columns.

CHAPTER XVI.

Verona-Its Amphitheatre reduced to a Theatre-A Bargain for a Carriage-Lake Guarda-Fancy and Fish-Milan-Its Cathedral -The Worshippers-Italian Ladies-Living in the Street-The Ambrosian Library-Its greatest Curiosity-The Cenacolo-The Italians, no Slouches.

HOWEVER poor a railroad is, it is always expeditious, when compared with the diligence or vettura of this part of the world. Despite the roughness of this road, we were soon out of Venice, the golden Venice, and past old Padua and Vicenza, and near ancient Verona, whose origin is lost in the mystery of fable. Martial insists that this famous old town owes much to Catullus,

"Tantum magna suo debet Verona Catullo;"

but we felt satisfied, before we left, that it is as much indebted to the fine fish, that the Adige affords. However much travellers may feel interested in the former grandeur of the city, in its associations with Pliny, the younger, and with Cornelius Nepos, we would, nevertheless, recommend them to try "fish" at the "Gran Parigi," if they would come away, favorably impressed with