SCOTTISH REVIEW.

Travels in the Island of Iceland during the Summer of 1810. By Sir George Mackenzie, Bart. 1 vol. 4to. With 32 engravings. 31. 3s. Constable and Co.

O part of the world, so remote and secluded as Iceland, has been so much the object of public cu riosity. Those who have been accustomed only to happier climates, feel a natural interest respecting the form which man and nature assume, in a situation so different, and under so severe a pressure of physical privation. But the grand point of view under which this island has claimed the attention of men of science, arises from the peculiarity of its physical structure. Instead of being, like the rest of the polar world, benumbed in perpetual frost, it exhibits a variety of phenomena, which seemed to be long only to the tropical regions., An eternal fire, burning beneath mountains of ice, and producing, by its incessant action, volcanoes, steaming exha lations, and an infinite variety of mineral combinations-such is the spectacle exhibited here, and here only. on the face of the earth. The moral aspect too of this island is considerably more interesting than might have been previously expected. Under a situation which seemed to doom its inhabitants to perpetual want and rudeness, Iceland excites much of the interest arising from civilized life and intellectual cultivation. She has her historians, her poets, and was, at one period of history, the grand repository of arts and learning for the northern world.

Notwithstanding these motives, which attracted towards Iceland the attention of men of research, the vi

sits to that country have hitherto been few, and with long intervals between each. Neither business nor amusement lured men to visit so ungenial a region, or to brave the tempestuous ocean which surrounds it. It was necessary that a pure and intrepid love of science should combine with leisure and independent fortune, to overcome so many difficulties and discouragements. Since the time of Sir Joseph Banks, no British traveller has been found who united all these requisites; and Scotland, though so favourably situated for such an expedition, had not yet contributed a traveller that was willing to undertake it. In supplying this deficiency, Sir George has made a most judicious use of that independence which he combines with so honourable a zeal for the interests of science. He has done what very few men duly quali fied have the means of doing; and has well availed himself of his opportunities to present to the world a more'ample view of the physical and moral condition of this remarkable island, than had been contributed from any former quarter.

The volume opens with a general view of the history and literature of Iceland. This relation throws light upon the causes which transported so large a measure of civilization and refinement into a region that seemed little formed to be their abode. Iceland grew under the calamities which af flicted all the neighbouring kingdoms. Above all, the tyranny of Harold king of Norway, in the ninth century, compelled a number of his most distinguished subjects to settle in Iceland. Being joined by many from other parts of Europe, who sought refuge from the calamities of war and devastation, they soon formed a pretty numerous community; and they established a constitution, founded on the highest principles of feudal indepen

dance.

dence. They had a general assembly of the island, an elective monarch, and a code of laws, very judiciously adapted to their peculiar circumstances. Learning, in that age of turbulence, could find shelter only in the corners and hiding-places of Europe, and Iceland afforded it a secure retreat. Besides the comparative tranquillity which it enjoyed, the long repose of its winter afforded ample leisure for literary pursuit. The Skalds, or poets of Iceland, were at this period by far the most celebrated of any in the north of Europe. Among the bards who adorned the courts of Sweden, Denmark, and Norway, twothirds were Icelanders. The most celebrated fruit of their genius was the Edda, that grand repository of the religion and poetry of the northern nations. According to the researches of Sir George Mackenzie, this work appears to have been produced by a succession of bards, who added to and improved upon each other's labours. Their historians were not less pre-eminent over all others who then cultivated that department of literature. To them we are indebted for most of what we now know respecting the annals of the Scandinavian kingdoms.

This brilliant era in Icelandic history terminated about the middle of the 13th century, when the island submitted to the dominion of the kings of Norway. The manner in which this revolution was accomplished, is extremely remarkable. It was preceded by a long period of violent intestine convulsion, the result of which was that the Icelanders determined to submit to a foreign yoke, as the only means of delivering themselves from domestic misrule.

On the subject of this proceeding, which is perhaps unprecedented in the history of nations, we should have been happy to receive a more complete

elucidation than is here given. It is expressly stated that no force was employed; yet it appears that all the persons concerned in the surrender became the objects of popular hatred.

By this subjection, in whatever manner accomplished, Iceland purchased tranquillity at the expense of greatness. The yoke was mild, and seems to have improved the general condition of the inhabitants; but the race of poets and historians, who had flourished under the shade of freedom, were quickly extinct. Physical calamities combined with political degradation to annihilate the prosperity of Iceland. An epidemic is said to have carried off nearly twothirds of the population; and the ravages of pirates (we are sorry to say English pirates) completed the devastation. As soon, however, as Iceland began to breathe from these calamities, she resumed also her literary pursuits. In 1530, a printing press was established, and Iceland again began to produce authors of merit. They no longer, indeed, occupied the same comparative station as before with regard to the neighbouring nations; but this was owing, not to their own deficiency, but to the unprecedented progress made by the rest of Europe. Nature, however, again began to persecute them. In the beginning of the 18th century, the small-pox was introduced, and carried off about 10,000 of the inhabitants. The latter part of that century (1783) was distinguished by a volcanic eruption, the most terrible apparently, which has ever been experienced on the face of the globe. The beds of rivers were filled up; the cattle were destroyed; and a thick cloud of smoke and ashes, during a year, covered the whole of Iceland. A famine was the consequence; and it must have been long

before

before the island could recover from so violent a shock. Yet, amid these severe calamities, letters were still cultivated with ardour; and, among other eminent names, Iceland can boast that of Torfæus, the well-known historian of Denmark and Norway. The government has uniformly continued to be mild and protecting.

Having thus surveyed the introductory part, we come now to the nartive of the voyage. Sir George landed first at Reikiavik, which place, and not Skalholt, is, contrary to general belief, the capital of Iceland, if such a name can be applied to a place which is described by Sir George in the following terms:

"Viewed from the sea, the capital of Iceland has a very mean appearance. It is situated on a narrow flat, between two hills, having the sea on the north-east, and a small lake on the south-west side. We landed for a short time in the evening; and had I not previously seen the fishermen, I should have been a good deal surprised at the odd figures that flocked about us. The Danish inhabitants, , who seldom stir without tobaccopipes in their mouths, were easily distinguished. The beach slopes rapidly; but is extremely convenient for boats at all times of the tide. It is composed entirely of comminuted lava. There were two large wooden platforms, made to be occasionally pushed into the water, for the purpose of loading and unloading the larger boats. The anchorage is good; and the bay is defended from heavy seas by several small islands, which render it a very safe harbour.

"The houses, with the exception of one that is constructed of brick, and the church and prison which are of stone, are formed of wood, coated on the outside with a mixture of tar and red clay. The storehouses, some of which are very large, are built of the

same materials, which in every case are put together very neatly. The longest range of houses extends along the beach; the other stretches at a right angle from it at the west end, and is terminated by a house which is used by the merchants as a tavern. At the east end of the town is the Toght-huus, or prison, which, having been white-washed by the usurper Jorgensen, is very conspicuous among the other dark-brown buildings. Behind this end of the street, which is on the beach, stands the house of the late governor, Count Tramp; and beyond that, near the lake, is the church; a clumsy building covered with tiles. It is in a sad state of dilapidation, the winds and, rain having free access to every part of it.

Though sufficiently large to accommodate some hundreds, it is not much frequented on ordinary Sundays. On particular occasions, such as a day of confirmation, it is much crowded. In the neighbourhood of the town there is a considerable number of cottages, all very mean, and inhabited for the most part by the people who work for the merchants. The whole population amounts to about five hundred. On the top of the hill to the westward, is an observatory, in which a few instruments are usually kept. At present they are in the hands of two Danish offi cers, who are employed in surveying the coasts."

Sir George was hospitably received at Reikiavik; but his account of the manners and state of society is not extremely favourable. He complains of the immense quantities of wine and punch which he found it necessary to swallow. Many of the ladies seem to have very ill maintained their reputation, yet were not the less received into all companies. Nor do we find many symptoms of that love of literature which has been

supposed

dry harbour, into which a sloop of forty or fifty tons may be brought for repair. The wooden buildings, the cottages scattered among the lava, the sea, and the distant country, form altogether a singular scene." From this they went to visit the school at Bessestad, the account of which gives but a melancholy view of the condition and prospects of the literature of that island.

"We proceeded to the schoolhouse, and were received by the bishop in his full dress. His under robe was of black velvet, over which was a silk one bordered with velvet; the cuffs were of white cambric.Round his neck he wore a white ruff. In this dress our good friend had a most venerable and dignified appearance. The school-rooms are lofty, but rather confined and dirty. Above these are barrack-rooms for the scholars and attendants, all in a very uncleanly condition. The lector lament ed this, and the bishop pronounced with emphasis, Bella, horrida bella!' which at once explained the evident state of decay into which this only remaining seminary of learning seemed to be falling. There is a considerable collection of books, a few of them curious and rare; but they are piled confusedly together in a miserable garret, and covered with dust and cobwebs."

The travellers now proceeded towards the sulphur mountains, through a country which exhibited the most singular aspect of entire desolation. The surface was wholly covered with lava, which rose in a thousand fantastic forms. Not a leaf, not a tree, no sign of vegetation, was to be seen, and their track was over pointed rocks, covered with sand and ashes. Such path could with difficulty be passed on foot, and would have presented insuperable obstacles to any horses but those of Iceland. They

soon came in sight of a phenomenon, most singular in any other country, though it soon proved to be common here.

"We saw vapour arising behind a hill at a short distance. We approached, and beheld it ascending with im petuosity from a circular bason, in a hollow near the summit of the mountain. Having advanced to the spot, we were surprised to see no water running from what was supposed to be a.boiling spring. On advancing nearer, we heard loud splashing, and going close to the bason, which was twelve feet in diameter, we perceived it to be full of thick black mud, in a state of very violent ebullition. This singular phenomenon seemed to be occasioned by steam escaping from some deep seated reservoir of boiling water, and suspending the mud, which was probably produced by the action of the steam, in softening the matter through which it forced its way. We discored a number of little fissures in the sand round about, from which steam rushed with a hissing noise. Though the splashing of the mud was incessant and violent, we did not observe any of it to escape from the boundary it had formed for itself."

At length our travellers reached the sulphur mountain, the chief object of this part of their excursion; and they have given the following view of its very singular construction.

"At the foot of the mountain was a small bank composed chiefly of white clay and some sulphur, from all parts of which steam issued.— Ascending it, we got upon a ridge immediately above a deep hollow, from which a profusion of vapour arose, and heard a confused noise of boiling and splashing, joined to the roaring of steam escaping from narrow crevices in the rock. This hol

low, together with the whole side of

the