ed the accounts of travellers, whose examinations of the country, to judge from Mr Reinhard's delineations, must have been made more than twenty years ago. In other respects the work is useful, and I have adopted it as my model in general in the following pages. "Born in Poland, and possessing a topographical knowledge of my country, I have determined to give the extent to this work which its object appeared to me to require. Writing for foreigners, in a language foreign to myself, I have endeavoured to unite in the work perspicuity with utility, and I shall be too happy if, while I have no other merit than that of being the first to present to the world an exact description of some provinces of my country, I shall be enabled to make my self useful to travellers, and to point out to strangers whatever objects in Poland are most worthy to arrest their attention." Our author then proceeds in his descriptive tour, commencing with Cracau, situated on a gentle ascent on the left bank of the Vistula, which divides it into three parts. The old town, Cracau, properly so called, the ancient capital of Poland, is one of these parts, Podgorze and Casimir are the other two, and there are besides suburbs in different directions. One part of the town of Casimir is inhabited by about 6000 Jews, who are excluded from the main or old town of Cracau, in which they are not even allowed to pass the night. The remains of antiquity which adorned the city have been in a great measure destroyed by the Austrians, whose barbarous policy it was to annihilate every monument which might remind the Poles of the renown of their ancestors. The old town was anciently fortified by a double circle of walls, and by towers remarkable for the variety of their forms; the gates were of Gothic architecture, and were very elegant; the Royal Castle or Citadel, (Zamek) built in the early ages, and formerly the habitation of the kings of Poland, rises splendidly conspicuous, and commanding an extensive prospect, upon a rock called Wewel, in the heart of the city. But the Austrians totally overturned the ramparts, partly destroyed the gates, and converted the Castle into barracks. The Cathedral, which is situated in the centre of this citadel, is an object of peculiar veneration to the Poles; "it is," says our author, "what the Capitol was to the ancient Romans, what the Pantheon is to France; in short, it is the precious receptacle for the mortal remains of their kings and their heroes, and it is not without a feeling of respectful veneration, mingled with religious awe, that one presumes to penetrate its ancient aisles, where one is surrounded by mausoleums, inscriptive tablets, statues, and chapels decorated with marble and bronze, and where one cannot advance monument of the renown of the couna step without meeting with some try, of the valour and victories of heroes. There repose the venerable ashes of Boleslas III. and IV. of Ladislas Lokietek; of Casimir the Great ; John Albert; Stephen Batory; Sigismond III.; Ladislas IV.; John Casimir; Michel Wiszniowiecki; John Sobieski; and Frederick Augustus II.” In the Chapel of the Sigismonds are deposited the remains of St Stanislas, the patron of the kingdom, and those of the heroic Kosciuszko and Poniatowski, which have been restored from foreign graves through the intervention of the Emperor Alexander, (King of Poland) and are now deposited in the vault of King John Sobieski, who conquered the Turks before Vienna, and saved that capital.* Our author proceeds to enumerate and describe eight churches, (of which, he says, Cracau may boast as the finest in Poland,) and other splendid and remarkable public buildings ;the Academy, bearing the name of Daughter of the Sorbonne," founded by the Jagellons in 1343, and possessing a library of 30,000 volumes, and 4000 rare MSS., as well as a cabinet of natural history, and an anatomical theatre; and the palaces of the bishops and nobility, which ornament the city. The "Place" is in the centre of the city. It was formerly the custom to erect a lofty throne in it on the day after the coronation of the kings, seated upon which they received the homage of the tributary princes. Mr Palmer is the author of the Authentic Memoirs of Sobieski, which he addressed to the Sovereigns assembled at the Congress at Vienna, in order to remind them of the claims of the Poles, who had, by their services, rescued that city from impending destruction. Mr Palmer is an Englishman. In the neighbourhood, many pleasing excursions may be made, particularly to the Salt Mines of Wieliczka, situated in Austria, a stage from Cracau. The chambers and passages in these mines, cut out of the pure and sparkling salt, are described as superb. The passages are dry, clean, and every where high enough for persons to walk upright. In places, they open into large caverns, one of which is in the form of a capacious chapel, with an altar, ornaments, and two monks, apparently in the act of solemnizing a mass, and a statue of Augustus III., all cut out of the rock of salt, which is in enormous masses, and in general most beautifully crystallized. A second pleasure-trip may be made to the marvellous caverns of Czaiowice, lying in the midst of scenery worthy of melo-dramatic imitation. Dark forests, frowning precipices, subterraneous torrents, castles, donjons, and the bones of those who had taken refuge in the caves, from the scourge of war and pestilence, would furnish forth materials for the most gloomy scene-painter of the most gloomy spectacle. At Cracau there are two fairs every year, which are well frequented. In the whole territory there are only 100 national guards (infantry,) 40 cavalry, and 200 mounted and dismounted of ficers of police. There is a good deal of commerce in grain. We need not follow the author through the small towns on the road to Warsaw, but shall join him at that capital, which contains 99,000 souls, independent of the garrison, amounting to 20,000 more. It is now the capital of Poland; and has been, since the time of Sigismond III., the ordinary residence of her kings. It is situated on a considerable hill, on the left bank of the Vistula, and consists of an old and new town, suburbs, (which are the most beautiful parts of the capital,) and four conterminous towns, having each their exclusive privileges, and their respective townhouses; their names are Grzybow, Leszno, Szolec, and Prague. Prague, formerly of a large extent, was totally destroyed by Suwarrow, in the war of 1794. More than 2000 inhabitants, without distinction of sex and age, were butchered by the cruel soldiery. It was afterwards rebuilt; but, in the war of 1816, it was again partly pulled down, to make room for fortifications, and a tête de pont. The present government is actively rebuilding it, upon a beautiful and general plan. The Grand Duke Constantine has there a splendid palace, and usually represents, as deputy, the citizens of these suburbs in the General Diet. These, and such like liberal proceedings, heal gradually the wounds formerly inflicted on the Poles. Prague is separated from Warsaw by the Vistula, and communicates with the capital by a flying bridge of 263 toises in length, which is speedily to give way to a more permanent one in masonry and chain-work, after a model by Mr Metzel. The castle, on a lofty and imposing situation, commands the Vistula and its opposite banks. It contains many superb and interesting apartments, adorned with pictures, marbles, and bronzes. The palaces and public buildings, to judge from the descriptions, and from the very neat prints with which this volume is adorned, are very magnificent. Chaste in their architecture, splendid in their extent, and classical in their embellishments, they would honour any capital in the world; and yet one has never heard of Warsaw as distinguished for architectural beauty. In the midst of the large court of the Academy, a statue of KOPERNIK, (Copernicus), who was by birth a Pole, and had been educated in the University of Cracau, is by this time erected. The churches, the hospitals, and the schools, are numerous and handsome. Many of the streets, squares, and places, are spacious and beautiful, some of them ornamented by statues and pillars. Thorwaldson is employed on a bronze equestrian statue, in memory of Prince Joseph Poniatowski, to be placed in some one of the principal squares. There are some streets in the city, as in all places of antiquity, which are narrow, and the houses of which are very high; but improvements are daily made in these respects. Our author enumerates the merits of the different inns, coffee-houses, restaurateurs, &c. in every place he describes, with all the zest of a connoisseur; and perhaps the capital may boast of many which are of the first order. We must, however, take all this cum grano, especially as to accommodations on the road; for we have been cautioned against believing the bonnes auberges, &c. of our author to mean what we call good inns in England. They do very well for the natives, who carry their beds, and proper accommodations with them on their journeys, as is the custom in other northern countries, as Prussia, Russia, and even some parts of Germany. In England, where the population is great, and where constant and frequent intercourse is kept up, for the sake of business or pleasure, the encourage ment to innkeepers is great, and the inns and their accommodations proportionably good. This is not the case in other northern climes, where the innkeeper does not feel it worth his while to risk any expence upon the accommodation of his employer. Indeed, our author himself observes, at p. 94, that although there is some improvement in the inns, "it is still almost indispensible for a foreigner travelling in Poland, to take his bed along with him, which he could rarely omit with safety, even in the towns.' We shall extract one more description, and then take leave of that department. This passage is not from the pen of Krasinski, but is extracted by him from another work. It savours somewhat of the style of the Arabian Nights Entertainments; but our readers must judge for themselves. It is a description of Arcadia, a country seat of the Princess Radzivill. that this place is indebted for its magni. "It is to the exquisite taste of this lady, ficence; all that Art and Nature have produced of rarity and price, in the most distant countries, are brought together here; and it seems as if they had contested for pre-eminence in the production of their treasures. "You enter by a house, having the appearance of a Dutch farm; scarce have you crossed the threshold of the door, which proves to be the entrance of a palace of crystal, than you believe yourself to be in mirrors-crystals and marble, disposed an enchanted hall;-porphyry-bronzewith skill and taste, complete the illusion. On leaving this splendid apartment, you Several newspapers and literary pass by a shady walk to a grotto, which magazines are published at Warsaw. you reach by steps contrived in the enor There are many well stocked book- mous masses of rock of which the grotto is shops;-15 printing presses;-two li- formed. The grotto serves as an entrance thographic establishments ;-and se- to a building, whose appearance is that of veral engravers ;-academies for de- a Gothic castle, adorned with armour and signing after nature;-and an annual chivalric devices; and which seems to have exhibition of paintings, which last year of the olden time. Leaving this, you pass been the residence of some preux chevalier contained 180 works in painting and by an open arcade to a bold arch in the engraving ;-rewards are given by Grecian style, which serves as a frame to government for the best perform the charming landscape formed by the everances;-a royal academy, founded in green thickets which surround the temple. 1816, by the Emperor Alexander; The gates of the temple are of precious an academy for the instruction of materials (acajou,) and are opened by a key the deaf and dumb;-an academy of of gold, enriched with diamonds. music;-a dramatic school;-and four vestibule is in the form of a rotunda, lightschools on the Lancasterian plan. ed by a cupola in the daytime, and by a CuAmong the numerous manufactures of pid, in a niche, bearing a torch, at night. the place, it is remarkable that there On advancing, you are surprised to see the rotunda change into a suite of apartments. are above 50 coach-making establishThe first of these is a museum, containing ments, in which branch there is a every thing that is most curious-in cameos considerable export trade. In War--Etruscan vases-fragments of inscripsaw there are 220 streets, and nearly tions-bas reliefs-tripod candelabras, &c. 4000 houses-3000 of which are of The imposing aspect of the temple, strikes masonry, covered with tiles, and the you, on your entrance, with a sort of reliremainder are of wood. The wooden gious awe; and carries you, in imagination, houses are gradually disappearing, and back to the days of the oracles of old. The give room for new and splendid build- grandeur of the vase and of the cupola, ings in stone; and it is not now law- charms and seduces the eye, which reposes ful to build in wood. The streets are with delight upon those walls of white paved with various sized stones, the marble, adorned with Corinthian columns, inequality of which, although they are sacred fire which burns upon the altar. and statues of Vestal virgins, guarding the carefully repaired, renders them un- The harmonious tones of an organ increase pleasant to foot passengers. The city, the charm; and, in the midst of the and its suburbs, are lighted with ar- sweetest sensations that the soul can enjoy, gand lamps. you find yourself, as it were by enchant The 1892. ment, hurried out of the sanctuary-suddenly your sight is plunged upon (plongée sur) a lake, though which a river forces its way, bearing along the foam occasioned by its recent fall, near the ruins of a handsome aqueduct, which serves as a bridge to enable you to make the tour of the lake, and to obtain a view of the façade of the temple. on the exact model of the Temple of Sibyl, "Following the flowery banks of this river, you reach an isle, where there is placed a monument of black marble, on which rests a figure of white marble, in the reposing attitude of the St Cecilia of Bernini at Rome,-which changes the interest of the inscription,- Et in Arcadia ego,' to that inspired by the epitaph on the tomb, J'ai fait Arcadic et j'y repose.' "Then you have the picturesque ruins of the ancient habitation of the god Pan; the sacrifice to Esculapius, surrounded by his attributes; the isle of offerings, which you reach by a flying-bridge, fixed to the banks by cordage. The circus, constructed on the Grecian model, and of the same size, is filled with monuments of marble, and of Oriental granite of the highest antiquity. A chapel, lately constructed at the gate leading from the park, and in the middle of a meadow enamelled with flowers, is above all remarkable. Its massive exte--portraits. Among the last is to be seen, rior gives it the majestic appearance of a sarcophagus. It is elevated on four arches, which serve as supports to it. It is ornamented in the interior by some copies in Sepia, of the works of the best painters, by Seydelman, an artist celebrated for the spirit and truth with which he gives the character of the painters after whom he designs. Among these, there is the Virgin, after Raphael,-Sacrifice of Emanuel, after Rembrandt,-Repose in Egypt, after Ferdinand Boll,-Magdalen, after Bottoni, and others. "Delille has consecrated this spot, by his admirable description of it in his immortal poem, LES JARDINS. "But the most beautiful place in Poland that has been equally chaunted by Delille, is Pulawy, the usual country residence of the Prince Czartoryski. Nature, art, taste, expence, all seem to have been combined to adorn it. It is situated on the pro minent banks of the Vistula. The buildings are shaded over with an extensive park, or rather dark grove; where, in a beautiful variety, are to be seen, Chinese Kiosks and precipices, hermitages and subterraneous grottos-a colossal statue of the dying Clarinda, supported by Tancred, in white marble of Carara-epitaphs hewn in the rock for the deceased friends of that illustrious family. These, and such like objects, strike the attention of a traveller; yet it is not a place of beauty alone, but also of veneration. To it the natives resort, as in pilgrimage, to gratify their patriotic feelings; for there are two temples-one built "The other, that is the Gothic temple, contains chiefly the antiquities of middle ages, of all foreign countries and nations; they consist mostly in ancient and modern tomb-stones-rare books and manuscripts the Portrait of Raphael, painted by himself, on wood. Besides, this splendid seat of Prince Czartoryski's,—who, like the Dukes of Weimar in Germany, are Mecænasses of learned men in Poland, and who themselves bear a high literary character is enriched by the largest library in Poland, containing about 110,000 volumes, in different languages. Especially, there is the richest store of manuscripts, particularly relating to the history of Poland." POSTING, we are informed, has reached the highest degree of perfection in Poland. The postillions are active, sober, intelligent, and trustworthy. The horses, chiefly from the Ukraine and Russia, are indefatigable, strong, although small, and full of fire and action. The celerity with which the traveller is conveyed from stage to stage is agreeable in many respects. Even on postes doubles," he is not obliged, as in Germany, to kick his heels while the horses are baiting. The public carriages, which regularly travel on the great roads, are on the model of those in England. They travel night and day. At every post-house, (station de poste,) a register is kept, in which travellers are entitled to enter any complaints they may have to make of the postboys, &c., whose deceptions, inattention, or impertinence, if established, are severely punished. The whole system is under the superintendance of a direction generale des postes. Those who do not wish to travel post, may find in every place voituriers in great numbers, among whom are many Jews, who will contract to convey them, at a small expense, distances of 20 or 30 miles, or farther, travelling at the rate of 10 or 12 miles a-day. When arrived at the end of the stipulated journey, the voiturier is sure to meet with a fare back again, and the traveller with the means of further conveyance. The probity of these voituriers is well established, and they may be safely entrusted with valuable effects, or money, to be conveyed to distant places. These advantages in travelling will be further increased by the rapid improvement of the roads, which proceeds with activity under the superintendance of govern ment. THE FORESTS are of great extent, particularly those in the north. Notwithstanding this, the roads are safe; and accidents of robbery or murder committed, are almost unheard of in Poland. THE VILLAGES are of great length, and consist of thatched wooden houses. Those of the better order of peasants contain spacious and commodious apartments. Of late years, houses of stone are often met with. In many places there are as it were colonies of gentlemen farmers. They are the descendants and worthy rivals of those nobles who, under the name of pospolite, have given such proofs of devotion and fidelity to their native land, and from whom also the most celebrated individuals, and the most distinguished families, take their origin. The richest inhabitants of the cities, as well as the nobles, have all their CHATEAUS, or country houses, with parks and gardens, which rival in beauty, and in the works of art which adorn them, those of France and Germany. These mighty improvements are only the work of later years. While all other nations were making exertions to extend their commerce and their territory, to build new cities, and generally to improve and to beautify themselves, Poland, from its geographical position (the bulwark of Germany,) was continually subject to the invasions of the Turks, the Tartars, the Swedes, the Cossacks, &c. Thus repose and tranquillity, so necessary for purposes of improvement, if obtained at all, were necessarily employed in repairing the ravages of war. But a few years of peace have shewn that the spirit of improvement is not wanting, if the means are afforded. THE SOIL in general is fertile, and produces a great variety of different kinds of grain. Wine, bread, and coffee, are universally allowed to be of surpassing excellence." If you want your coffee strong, ask for Polish coffee; if weak, call for German." Formerly, the Hungarian wines were consumed in great quantity, and they are still to be met with of ancient vintages at the tables of rich proprietors, and, above all, of ecclesiastics, who have kept them more than a century in their cellars. Of late years the French have introduced a taste for their own wines, which are now to be met with, in variety and good, in all the small towns and private houses. English ale and porter are now a common beverage; and champagne, mixed with a profusion of seltzer water, is the usual cooling drink in the hottest sea son. THE PEASANTRY, who are declared free by the constitutions of 1791, 1807, and 1815, though not very far advanced in civilization, are laborious, and abound in good qualities. They are devoted to their landlords, and are easily guided to improvement. They are not in general proprietors of the soil, but possessors of portions allotted them by their landlord, (Seigneur,) who receives his rent in labour, the peasant working for him so many days in the week, called by the French corvée; † this practice is restrained by laws preventing its abuse. Every peasant may quit his landlord if injured or dissatisfied. In some districts the peasants rise to be farmers, both hereditary and for terms of years; and it is hoped that the condition of this class will improve from day to day. The Polish mile is nearly six English miles. + A practice of this sort prevailed a few years ago, and perhaps still prevails, in Northumberland, where the cottagers were obliged to do bondage work, as they called it, for the landlord. |