When we came down to the fea, we saw some boats, and rowers, and refolved to explore the Buller at the bottom. We entered the arch, which the water had made, and found ourselves in a place, which, though we could not think ourselves in danger, we could fcarcely survey without fome recoil of the mind. The bason in which we floated was nearly circular, perhaps thirty yards in diameter. We were inclosed by a natural wall, rifing steep on every side to a height which produced the idea of infurmountable confinement. The interception of all lateral light caufed a difmal gloom. Round us was a perpendicular rock, above us the distant sky, and below an unknown profundity of water. If I had any malice against a walking spirit, instead of laying him in the Red-fea, I would condemn him to refide in the Buller of Buchan.

But terror without danger is only one of the fports of fancy, a voluntary agitation of the mind that is permitted no longer than it pleases. We were foon at leifure to examine the place with minute inspection, and found many cavities which, as the watermen told us, went backward to a depth which they had never explored. Their extent we had not time to try; they are faid to

ferve different purposes. Ladies come hither fometimes in the fummer with collations, and fmugglers make them store-houses for clandeftine merchandise. It is hardly to be doubted but the pirates of ancient times often used them as magazines of arms, or repositories of plunder.

To the little veffels ufed by the northern rowers, the Buller may have ferved as a fhelter from storms, and perhaps as a retreat from enemies; the entrance might have been ftopped, or guarded with little difficulty, and though the veffels that were ftationed within would have been battered with stones showered on them from above, yet the crews would have lain fafe in the caverns.

Next morning we continued our journey, pleased with the reception at Slanes Castle, of which we had now leifure to recount the grandeur and the elegance; for our way afforded us few topics of converfation. The ground was neither uncultivated nor unfruitful; but it was ftill arable. Of flocks or herds there was no appearance. I had now travelled two hundred miles in Scotland, and feen only one tree not younger than myfelf.

BAMFF.

BAMF F.

We dined this day at the house of Mr. Frazer of Streichton, who fhewed us in his grounds some stones yet standing of a druidical circle, and what I began to think more worthy of notice, fome forest trees of full growth.

At night we came to Bamff, where I remember nothing that particularly claimed my attention. The ancient towns of Scotland have generally an appearance unufual to Englishmen. The houses, whether great or small, are for the moft part built of ftones. Their ends are now and then next the streets, and the entrance into them is very often by a flight of steps, which reaches up to the second story. The floor which is level with the ground being entered only by stairs descending within the house.

The art of joining squares of glass with lead is little used in Scotland, and in fome places is totally forgotten. The frames of their windows are all of wood. They are more frugal of their glafs than the English, and will often, in houses not otherwise mean, compose a square of two pieces, not joining like cracked glass, but with one edge laid perhaps half an inch over the other. Their windows do not move upon hinges, but

are pushed up and drawn down in grooves, yet they are feldom accommodated with weights and pullies. He that would have his window open muft hold it with his hand, unless what may be fometimes found among good contrivers, there be a nail which he may ftick into a hole, to keep it from falling.

What cannot be done without fome uncommon trouble or particular expedient, will not often be done at all. The incommodioufnefs of the Scotch windows keeps them very closely shut. The neceffity of ventilating human habitations has not yet been found by our Northern neighbours; and even in houses well built and elegantly furnished, a stranger may be fometimes forgiven, if he allows himself to wifh for frefher air.

Thefe diminutive obfervations seem to take away fomething from the dignity of writing, and therefore are never communicated but with hesitation, and a little fear of abasement and contempt. But it must be remembered, that life consists not of a series of illuftrious actions, or elegant enjoyments; the greater part of our time passes in compliance with neceffities, in the performance of daily duties, in the removal of fmall inconveniences, in the procurement of petty pleasures; and we are well or ill at ease, as the main ftream of life glides on fmoothly, or is ruffled by small obstacles and frequent interruption. The true state of

every

The

every nation is the state of common life. manners of a people are not to be found in the schools of learning, or the palaces of greatness, where the national character is obfcured or obliterated by travel or inftruction by philosophy or vanity; nor is public happinefs to be estimated by the affemblies of the gay, or the banquets of the rich. The great mass of nations is neither. rich nor gay they whofe aggregate constitutes the people, are found in the streets, and the villages, in the shops and farms; and from them collectively confidered, must the measure of general prosperity be taken. As they approach to delicacy a nation is refined, as their conveniences are multiplied, a nation, at least a commercial nation, must be denominated wealthy.

ELGI N.

Finding nothing to detain us at Bamff, we set out in the morning, and having breakfasted at Cullen, about noon came to Elgin, where in the inn, that we supposed the best, a dinner was set before us, which we could not eat. This was the first time, and except one, the laft, that I found any reason to complain of a Scotish table; and fuch difappointments, I fuppose, must be expected in every country, where there is no great frequency of travellers.