416

THE LION'S WADY.

CHAPTER XVII.

THE LION'S WADY TEMPLE OF SEBOUA -ROWS OF ANDROSPHYNXES-HUMAN SACRIFICE COLOSSAL STATUES TORRENTS OF SAND ENCROACHMENTS OF THE DESERT NUBIAN HAMLET -FAST OF THE RAMADAN-ANECDOTE OF THE HAJJI-WALLED DATE GROVE SPLENDID PROSPECT ON THE NILE-CALMNESS OF THE NIGHTS SINGING BIRDS REGULATIONS OF THE PASHA HOUSES OF THE NUBIANS GRANARIES OF SAVAGESENCOUNTER THREE WANDERING DERVISHES - RUINS OF A SARACEN TOWN- TEMPLE OF ARMADA — EXTRAORDINARY SYMBOLICAL FIGURES-SYMBOL OF ISIS AND OSIRIS MYSTICAL REPRESENTATION OF THE SEASONS -COLOURS OF THE NILE — ARRIVAL AT DERR ROCK TEMPLE MILITARY SCULPTURES — RELIGIOUS SYMBOLS — THE BURNING BUSH TOWN OF DERKNEATNESS OF THE HOUSES RICHNESS AND BEAUTY OF THE PLAIN YOUNG PLANTATIONS OF SYCAMORE NUMBER OF THE SAKIAS.

Tuesday, Jan. 22. Korosko.

CCCVII. CURIOSITY seems never, in some natures, to be abated by experience. The novelty which each successive day presented, frequently caused the approach of morning to appear tardy, and led us forth before we could clearly distinguish objects. Our first business to-day was the examination of the temple of Seboua, celebrated for its long avenue of androsphynxes, which has communicated to the whole district the appellation of the "Lion's Wady." The ruin stands about five hundred yards from the river, in the midst of a large plain, probably once fertile,

TEMPLE OF SEBOUA.

417

but now overwhelmed with sand; and the propylon, constructed in a plain style, looks imposing at a distance. Proceeding a short distance over the plain, we arrive at a flight of steps, adorned on either side with a statue ten feet four inches high, leading to the summit of a broad and lofty causeway of hewn stone, one hundred and eighty feet in length, along which we advance, between two rows of sphynxes, to the principal gateway. The original height of this causeway cannot now be ascertained, from the accumulation of soil about its foundation; but it would appear to have been adorned on all sides with sculpture, for the façade, where alone a small portion of the basement is visible, exhibits the figures of men, women, and cynocephali, executed in a rude style. The statues above-mentioned, with the thin pillars to which they are attached, consist of one entire block. They face the river, and are represented with the left foot advanced, like the figures of Osiris at Gyrshé. Their heads are adorned with lofty mitres; and a tippet, ornamented girdle, and small apron, constitute the remainder of their scanty and primitive costume. In physiognomy they differ but little from the Egyptian statues, nor are they wanting in that long, narrow, square-cut beard, which distinguishes the male divinities of this country.

CCCVIII. The approach to this temple, through long avenues of androsphynxes, with mitred heads, before time, barbarism, and drifting sands had de

418

ANDROSPHYNXES.

faced or concealed its ornaments, must, doubtless, have been magnificent. These figures, measuring about ten feet in length, have a hieroglyphic inscription between the paws upon the breasts, and rest on parallelogrammatic slabs, whose edges are adorned with symbolical sculpture. It is the beard alone that gives a masculine character to the face, which, without such an appendage, would be singularly feminine and delicate. Travellers, observing a small hole on the top of the head, have imagined it was designed to receive a statue or pedestal; but the means of rectifying this error were close at hand; for, by the side of the second sphynx, on the left hand, in approaching the temple from the river, we find the mitre, that originally surmounted its head, carefully removed, and placed entire upon the sand, having in its bottom a hole exactly corresponding with that in the head of the figure, intended to contain the metal bar by which they were united. The whole body of the sphynx is of a fine light grey stone; the mitre of a dusky red colour; and it was for the sake of the contrast thus produced that the whole was not wrought from one single block. These mysterious figures are very finely sculptured; the human countenance being made to harmonise so skilfully with the body of the lion, that the union does not seem monstrous. They are represented in the most perfect state of repose, the forepart of the body resting lightly upon the paws, while the long tail, as is the case when the lion lies down, after devouring his prey, curls round over the haunches.

HUMAN SACRIFICE.

419

CCCIX. The propylon*, to which we next proceeded, is constructed with blocks of stone smaller than are usually found in these edifices. On the external face, left of the entrance, is the representation of a human sacrifice, in which Burckhardt, adopting the opinion of Hamilton, recognises the destruction of Briareus; but nothing can be more visionary; for, instead of the destruction of a giant, whose prodigious bulk and terrific aspect inspired even the gods with fear, we have here a colossal figure grasping two diminutive mortals by the hair, and about to strike off their heads with an axe. Osiris, bearing the symbol of eternal life, stretches forth his right hand towards the victims, either to direct or prohibit the sacrifice; probably the former. The same group is repeated on the opposite side, where the god is hawk-headed, and the sacrificer brandishes the axe in his left hand. On the south side, close to the door-way, is a colossal statuet overthrown, whose head and breast, when Burckhardt visited Seboua, were covered with

sand,

-

now

cleared away. The features have been nearly obliterated. The right arm hangs down idly by the side, but the hand, probably, once held some symbol, which has been broken off. The left arm embraces a long square staff, reaching from the ground to the shoulder, and ending above in a ram's head, with mitre and broad lappets. Like the colossi at the extremity of the causeway, it has the left foot advanced, rests against a pillar, and wears a short apron, adorned with the phallus, and fastened round the waist by a richly ornamented girdle or cincture. Upon the edges of the pedestal is a hieroglyphic inscription. On both sides of the dromos are several square columns nearly buried in the sand, with colossal statues in front, resembling those of Gyrshé; the whole greatly mutilated. The cella, which is fifty-three feet in breadth, but whose length we found it impossible to ascertain, — has now been also overwhelmed by the desert.

CCCX. From the temple of Seboua we proceeded along the mountains of rock and sand running parallel with the course of the river, where we observed numerous deep stony valleys partly filled up by the sands, which are driven in torrents from the desert by the impetuous west wind, and, unless resisted by the efforts of government, which alone, in these countries possesses the power of erecting great public works, will shortly swallow up all the arable land of Nubia. A proof that cultivation formerly extended much further westward than at present was