48

IBRAHIM PASHA'S GARDENS.

public. A few small flowers, the last of the year, were blooming near the water-wheel. They were of a brilliant colour, but their odour was faint, barely sufficient to awaken our regret at the absence of the spring. In this neighbourhood were situated the vineyards which produced the Mareotic wine, celebrated, probably through want of experience, by several of the ancients; for, although the soil and climate of Egypt be not altogether hostile to the growth of the vine, there are none of those gentle slopes or hilly terraces in which it delights, and which appear absolutely necessary to bring its fruit to perfection. All the superior wines of Burgundy, I might, perhaps, say of France, are made from hill vineyards; that which is produced on the plain, even close to the foot of the Côte d'Or, being of a watery inferior quality. And this, I imagine, notwithstanding that the richness of the soil is here greatly diminished by the fortunate admixture of sand, must always have been the case with the wines of Egypt.

PASHA'S PALACE.

49

CHAPTER III.

MOHAMMED ALI'S PALACE

BOGHOS 1OUSSOUFF- CONVERSATION WITH THE PASHA-ARMY OF EGYPT THE MALTA GAZETTEPROJECTED NEWSPAPER-THE CONSTITUTIONNEL-THE PASHA'S AUTOBIOGRAPHY-THE FORTIFICATIONS OF ALEXANDRIA-THE AUTHOR OBTAINS LEAVE TO ENTER A PART OF THE HAREM, AND SEE THE PASHA'S CHILDREN—AND RECEIVES A LETTER, CONTAINING AN ORDER TO THIS EFFECT, FROM HIS HIGHNESS-PERFORMANCE OF EVENING PRAYER AT THE PALACE -PERSONAL APPEARANCE OF THE PASHA HIS MODE OF TRANS CTING BUSINESS HIS AMUSEMENTS AND MANNERS.

Wednesday, Nov. 21.

XXIII. TRAVELLERS are usually presented to the Pasha immediately after their arrival; but I had put off the ceremony to the last moment, not through want of curiosity to behold so extraordinary a man, but from various accidental causes, of which I could render no account even to myself. On this day, however, late in the afternoon, I rode to the palace, accompanied by Mr. Harris, by whom I was to be introduced; and by the nephew of the American consul, a young gentleman who had been my fellow-passenger from Leghorn; and, on arriving at the entrance, found a number of janissaries and other attendants, in their costly and gorgeous uniforms, lounging about the grand flight steps which leads to the divan. Having ascended

of

50

THE PRESENTATION.

these stairs, we crossed several spacious halls whose lofty ceilings were painted in a chaste and elegant style, and, making our way through crowds of courtiers of all nations, arrived at the audience-chamber, where we found the Pasha and his minister, Boghos Ioussouff, standing at the extremity of the apartment ready to receive us. As we entered, the Pasha, advancing a few steps to meet us, saluted us in the Turkish manner, repeating the salām, or, "peace and welcome," and placing his right hand upon his heart. When we had returned his Highness's salutation, our names were pronounced; upon which he took his seat on his lofty crimson divan, and desired me to sit down by his side. On this occasion, he placed himself, as usual, in a corner of the room; where, his whole person being involved in shadow, it was extremely difficult to detect the expression of his countenance, or the uneasy rapid motion of his eye. Boghos Ioussouff, his Highness's first interpreter, as well as prime minister*, stood, with his arms crossed, before us; the other ministers, courtiers, and officers having all retired to the antechamber, as it was understood that I was to be favoured with a private audience. The conversation was commenced in the ordinary way. welcome," observed the Pasha; "I am glad to see you in Egypt. Does the country please you? Are you contented? It is my desire that travellers should be quite at their ease, quite at home, in my dominions."

"You are

* He has since been raised to the rank of Bey, or Prince.

CONVERSATION WITH THE PASHA.

51

"I thank your Highness. Alexandria has interested me exceedingly; but as yet I am only on the threshold of Egypt. With your permission, I wish to explore the whole country. Travellers appear to move about as safely here as in Europe."

Certainly, certainly. Nothing can afford me greater pleasure than extending my protection to strangers. You will run no risk in traversing the whole of my territories. How far do you purpose extending your researches ?"

"As far as Dóngola, should I be blest with a favourable wind."

"Indeed! Well, you may proceed in safety as far as you please. I understand it is your intention to write a book. Is it so?"

"Your Highness has been rightly informed."

"In that case, I shall be happy to afford you all kinds of facilities. But do you confine your researches, as is the custom, to ruins and other remains of ancient art ?"

"On the contrary, my principal object is to obtain an insight into the character of your Highness's government, and the present state of the country."

XXIV. When I had spoken these words, a remarkable change, I thought, took place in his manner. He seemed more polite than before, but was evidently more grave and thoughtful. "Ah! then," he continued, after a brief pause,

52

THE EGYPTIAN ARMY.

"you do not run about after antiquities; your object is wholly political."

"Not wholly, may it please your Highness; but having learned from history what Egypt was in old times, I am curious to discover its present resources and military strength; and on this point I should feel extremely flattered if I could obtain permission to ask your Highness a question."

"You have my permission: say on."

"Your Highness has doubtless been informed, that a statement of the nature and amount of your forces has appeared in the Malta Gazette. Now, I wish to know from your Highness whether I may depend upon the correctness of that statement; and, if not, I would then inquire what the real amount may be."

He now paused for a moment, casting a half-angry, half-scrutinising look, first at me, and then at Mr. Harris. Coffee, also, was at this moment brought in; and I feared that the conversation, thus interrupted, would not be again resumed. However, in a few minutes he replied: - -“I have not hitherto exactly ascertained the amount of my forces, which are widely scattered about in the various provinces of my dominions; but, I assure you, the statement of the Malta Gazette is altogether incorrect; as I may venture to assert, in round numbers, that my army amounts to quite double the number there stated.*

Eighty-five thousand men. The Pasha did not appear to be acquainted with the author of that statement, who, however, was perfectly well known to me; as were also the grounds upon which it had been made.