TEMPLE OF SEBOUA.

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CHAPTER XX.

TEMPLE OF SEBOUA

ENTER INTO THE ADYTUM- CHRISTIAN PAINTINGS CHARITY OF BARBARIANS SKULLS OF THE NUBIANS AND ARABS-EXPOSURE OF THE HEAD CAUSE OF OPHTHALMIA -CLEARNESS OF THE NILE-PURITY OF ITS WATERS CAUSES OF THIS PURITY- COMPARISON OF THE NILE WITH OTHER RIVERS TAX ON WATER-WHEELS TEMPLE OF MEHARRAKA-VIEW OF THE RUINS BY MOONLIGHT KORTI SAVAGE DANCE OF THE NUBIANS RUINED CHAPEL-WADY KOSTAMNI FORDING THE NILE VILLAGE CEMETERIES IGNORANCE OF MEDICINE VALUE OF PHYSICIANS GRAVES OF THE NUBIANS KALABSHI- VIEW

OF THE TEMPLE BY MOONLIGHT -HOLES IN THE WALL BRIGHTNESS OF THE EVENING STAR KNOWLEDGE OF MONEY-FREEDOM RUINS OF A CHRISTIAN CHURCH

OF THE SOIL FROM WEEDS

CCCLXXV. OUR Arabs setting forward soon after day-break, we reached about nine o'clock the temple of Seboua, where we were desirous of taking a few measurements. On narrowly examining the ruin, a small low opening was found, leading from the large chamber of the cella, the roof of which has now fallen in,-into the adytum and smaller apartments adjoining. Having forced a way through the sand, we found ourselves in a narrow chamber, extending across the whole breadth of the temple, from which five doors lead to as many apartments, whose walls are covered with hieroglyphics, and the usual figures of the gods. Over these a thick coat of plaster had been laid by the early Christians, who, having

500

CHRISTIAN PAINTINGS.

converted the temple into a church, were desirous of effacing "the obscene dread" of Egypt's sons, with the figures of saints and martyrs. On one side of the doorway leading into the adytum is a full-length figure of the Virgin, with a broad glory encircling her head, and on the other, that of St. Joseph. In the adytum is a small niche, occupied by a statue, formerly a pagan idol, whose lineaments have been hammered away, and painted over with those of St. Peter, which are still tolerably fresh. Were the plaster and white lime removed from the walls, the forms and colours of the ancient sculptures would probably be found in a state of high preservation, as, in a few places, where they have already dropped off, the figures are perfect, and the tints extremely bright. In the small side chamber, on the right hand of the adytum, there is a deep sepulchral excavation; but whether the same thing occurs in the corresponding apartment on the left, we were unable to decide, it being nearly filled up with sand. The ceiling is adorned with figures of scarabæi and the sacred vulture. All this part of the temple appears to have been excavated in the rock; the remainder is of masonry.

CCCLXXVI. At Wady Baardeh, on the western bank, are the ruins of two stone buildings, one of which displays the remains of a cupola. On both sides of the river the cultivated land is extremely narrow. The kandjia proceeding slowly, we landed about noon on the Arabian shore, and walked for

FORM OF THE HEAD.

501

several miles through fields of wheat and barley, still green. Even here, where wretchedness was apparent in every cot, we found the cool shed and the waterjar by the side of the path for the use of the wayfaring man; the rational charity of barbarians. A Nubian travelling with a laden ass towards the north, accompanied us for some time. His head was shaven, excepting that important tuft on the crown, by which the angel of death, in the last day, will bear all true believers to paradise; yet he walked uncovered in the sun, whose heat appeared sufficient to scorch his brain to a cinder. Both in the Nubian and the Fellah the form of the skull indicates but feeble passions. They have small heads, generally, nay, almost universally, with but an inconsiderable portion behind the ears. The forehead, in the Fellah, is low; in the Nubian high, but ill-formed, projecting over the eyes, as in hydrocephalous persons. Continuous mental labour, commenced in boyhood, probably affects the form of the cranium, and may be one cause of the difference in volume, no less than in shape, observable between the skulls of civilised and savage men. But even among barbarians there is a striking difference. The Greek, the Turk, the Bedouin, have broad lofty foreheads, and skulls of the finest conformation; while the races above described, and, indeed, all the nations of Africa, together with the Sicilians, the Portuguese, the inhabitants of Southern Italy, the Swiss, the Savoyards, and many other nations of Europe, not wholly destitute of civilisation, have skulls exceedingly ill formed, and a

physiognomy expressive of great feebleness of intellect. Yet, from their proximity to the great seats of civilisation, several of these races have attained a social condition far superior to that of the Bedouins, the Turks, or the Greeks. It can scarcely be doubted that the habitual exposure of the bare skull, tends, as Herodotus has remarked, to harden it exceedingly; but it may possibly, at the same time, produce an injurious effect upon the brain. Dervishes, santons, sanyasis, yoghis, and other fanatics or vagabonds found in the East, who expose themselves in penance to the sun, if they were not lunatic at the outset, generally become so. Nature, by furnishing the head with a thick covering, suggests the propriety of protecting the brain from the effects of intense heat, and there are few points on which she can be disobeyed with impunity.

CCCLXXVII. This practice would moreover seem to be connected with an evil very common in those countries; I mean ophthalmia. Every day we observe proofs of its ravages. In the Wady Baardeh, near a farm house, a young man followed us, begging a little medicine for his father, grievously afflicted with this disease. Unfortunately we possessed none, but advised that the eyes might frequently be washed with warm water. In remedies of this kind, however, they have no faith, but require medicines of miraculous properties, which will effect an instantaneous cure; and such nostrums they seem to be thoroughly persuaded Europeans possess, could they be pre

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vailed upon to administer them. By banishing the turban, the best substitute for the hat, Mohammed Ali will probably greatly multiply cases of ophthalmia; for the red cap, now worn, affords the eyes no protection; and in consequence the Arabs are constantly seen with their eyes half shut, or pursed up in a way which quickly produces wrinkles at the corners. I myself, who wore this cap, observed in the Fayoom, that my eyes became greatly inflamed, while motes seemed to float before them perpetually; and this continued for several months. The dust, also, which, particularly about Cairo, constantly fills the air, must very much contribute to the prevalence of ophthalmia, in all ages one of the chief scourges of Egypt. Sesostris the Great died blind; his successor, likewise, according to Diodorus Siculus, was afflicted with an ophthalmia that for ten years entirely deprived him of sight; and among the Hermaic books, which, though forgeries, must yet have been of ancient date, we find an entire volume devoted to diseases of the eye.

CCCLXXVIII. The Nile, when we commenced our voyage, was very muddy, but is now become quite clear. Volney, who, however ingenious, was strongly addicted to paradox, speaks disparagingly of its waters, as indeed he does of the country, and nearly every thing it contains. He was probably an admirer of wine ; for, had water been his usual beverage, he must quickly have perceived that no river in France, the only European country with which he was acquainted,