UNITED PARISHES OF

EVIE AND RENDALL.

PRESBYTERY OF KIRKWALL, SYNOD OF ORKNEY.

THE REV. DAVID PITCAIRN, MINISTER:

I.

TOPOGRAPHY AND NATURAL HISTORY. THESE parishes have retained their present names from time immemorial, and nothing satisfactory can be said as to their etymology.

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Extent, &c. The parish of Evie, which is the most northerly of the two, runs from north-west to south-east, about 6 miles in length, being very narrow towards the northern extremity, and gradually increasing in breadth, till it joins the parish of Rendall, which is much more compact, and may be estimated to extend from 4 to 5 miles square.

Situation, &c.—These parishes are situated on what is commonly called the mainland of the Orkney Islands. They are bounded on the north, by the ocean; on the north-east, east, and south-east, by a sound or frith, which separates them from the islands of Enhallow, Rousay, Wyre, Gairsay, and Shapinshay. The southern boundary is partly a bay of the sea, called Damsay sound, and partly the parish of Firth. To the west of Rendall lies the parish of Harray; and the parish of Birsay meets Evie on the north

west.

Topographical Appearances.-Costa-head forms the northern termination of Evie. It is a hill of considerable size and elevation, presenting to the ocean a face of bold and precipitous rock. From Costa, there is a contiguous range of hill ground, which divides these parishes from Birsay and Harray. These hills are covered with peat moss or heath, mixed with coarse grass. Their outline and general aspect is exceedingly tame and uninteresting. In height, they are very uniform, and probably not more than from 300 to 400 feet above the level of the sea. There are also hills of smaller dimension, but of the same character, which intersect the parish of

Rendall; and the whole of this hill ground, which constitutes by far the largest portion of each parish, is undivided common,* separated from the grass and corn lands, by an earthen fence, called the Hill Dike. The cultivated ground generally lies on a gentle declivity towards the sea shore, and varies in breadth from half a mile, to nearly a mile and a half, in some places.

The outline of the coast is not marked by any of those deep indentations which are common throughout Orkney. The beach, with the exception of one small bay, of beautiful white shell sand, is rocky. In some places, the rocks rise abruptly, forming a kind of wall against which the sea dashes; and there are a few fissures, (on a small scale, however,) which are not destitute of the picturesque; but for the most part, the rocky shore is low and flat. There is no headland of any importance, except that at Costa, already mentioned. The principal bay is at Woodwick, and Gairsay is the only island which deserves notice. It is part of the parish of Rendall, from which it is separated by a narrow sound. It is nearly circular, and in circumference upwards of four miles. The ground gradually rises from the shore, and terminates in a beautiful conical shaped green hill, upon the summit of which there is a cairn of stones; but at what period carried there, or for what purpose, there is no tradition.

Meteorology. The ordinary range of the barometer is from 28 to 30. I have rarely observed it higher or lower.

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Climate. The climate of these parishes is decidedly damp. Besides the moist fogs which are common in spring and the beginning of summer, it seldom happens that we have a week of continued dry weather. There is a great humidity in the atmosphere, and the diseases which are prevalent, are precisely what might be anticipated from such a climate. verish colds, with dysentery, occur every season; cases of ague and consumption occur occasionally, and very few of the people who are advanced in life, are free from rheumatic attacks. To some constitutions, however, the climate seems to be positively beneficial, and many of the inhabitants outlive the allotted term. of threescore years and ten.

Hydrography. The frith that bounds the parish of Evie on the north-east and east, is called Enhallow Sound. It varies in

The common belonging to the parish of Rendall is now about to be divided.

breadth from two to three miles. There are dangerous shallows in the centre. In some places, it becomes suddenly deep, which causes what is called in this country a "roast." When the tide ebbs over the submarine precipice, the surface is violently agitated, even in calm weather, and still more so when the wind is blowing contrary. In this sound, and likewise in that which bounds Rendall on the east and south-east, the tide ebbs and flows with a current at the rate of six to eight miles in stream-tides, and three to five miles in neap-tides, per hour. The water is strongly saline, and so beautifully transparent, that objects lying below can be distinctly seen at the depth of three or four fathoms.

There are numerous springs of fine water in both parishes. Most of them are perennial; but a few flow only in winter. In the grass parks adjoining the manse, there is a spring which never dries up. The water is chalybeate; but not so strong as to be unpleasant. The marshy ground in the vicinity furnishes evidence of a connection with iron, from the scum that settles on the small pools, and from the colour given to the drains which have been cut. I have not heard of any other spring that can be denominated mineral.

The only lake or loch lies on the boundary line betwixt Evie and Birsay. It extends nearly two miles in length, and is about half a mile broad. There is a small island in the centre, which has been found, by a late decision of the Sheriff-Court, to belong to a Birsay proprietor. But it is admitted that one-half of the loch is common to Evie. There are plenty of excellent trout in it; and although the depth of water is not great, yet it is of essential use in driving a meal-mill in summer, when the other mills are at a stand. The locality of this loch of Swana is exceedingly pleasing; and, were the surrounding hills partially clothed with trees, the landscape would merit the title of beautiful.

Geology and Mineralogy.—The mineralogist finds these parishes a very unfruitful field. The rocks here are all of the secondary formation, passing from blue slate to white sandstone. The colour and consistency of strata differ widely; some being almost as hard as flint, and as dark as lava; and others quite soft, and of a brownish-grey. The rocks are all in horizontal strata, with a gentle dip towards the sea; and I am not aware of their suffering any derangement from cross veins or dikes. Indeed, wherever the soil is removed, either by water-courses or the pur

pose of quarrying, the uniformity of the strata and also of the dip is very marked.

I have not seen, nor have I been informed, of any organic remains being discovered, or of any particular spars. Towards the north end of Evie there is a vein of pyrites; but it is too insignificant to be worked.

It is said that at Woodwick, on the southern extremity of Evie, there is a considerable deposit of marl. If it really exists, no use is made of it. In the neighbourhood of the rivulets, on pieces of low ground, there are various deposits of sand and gravel mixed with clay and peat-mould, washed down from the hills. Part of the ground close to the manse is of this description.

There is an inexhaustible supply of excellent peat in the various valleys which intersect the hills. There are also peat-bogs in the low grounds, which might easily be drained. In Rendall there is a large valley, which is an unbroken peat-moss. Some portions of it are so full of the roots and branches of trees, that the people cannot work to advantage. Last summer, there was excavated a solid trunk of a tree. It appeared to have been of stinted growth, and was chiefly remarkable for its freshness. It is interesting to ascertain the fact, that trees, even of puny dimensions, have at some remote period adorned a country, where now they can only be reared in inclosed gardens.

The soil of these parishes is partly a rich black loam, and partly a mixture of clay and sand, resting on blue slaty rock, sometimes inclining to sandstone. In Rendall, the soil is generally of a lighter and sharper description than that of Evie.

and snipe in the marshes.

Zoology. Although the whole country is destitute of cover, the quantity and variety of small birds is great-starlings, larks, linnets are the most numerous. Grouse are found on the hill-grounds, As a rara avis, there once was brought to me a young water-hen. Sea-fowl, large and small, from the heron and the cormorant to the dotterel, abound; but I am not aware of any species existing here, that is not common to other parts of Orkney. I have seen lately a very fine specimen of the Death's headmoth.

Botany. The natural grass is full of wild flowers, which not only give to the pasture-ground the appearance of a beautifully variegated carpet, but it is probable that this aromatic and medicinal food contributes both to the health of the cattle, and the richness of the milk.

Trees there are none, excepting in the manse garden. A few apple-trees, planted by a former incumbent, are now bearing; and about a dozen more, planted within the last three and four years, (all on the wall,) are promising. Pear-trees planted at the same time have grown well to wood, but have neither blossomed nor yielded fruit. The cherry-trees of the same age have, for the last two seasons, made a tolerable show of blossom, and some fruit set, yet we have never had a ripe cherry. These trees having all an exposure to the south-south-east, are protected from the winds, which are here most blighting. And as the soil in which they are planted is good, it is only the want of sunshine that can hinder their prosperity.

Shortly after my settlement in 1830, I laid out a piece of pleasure ground in front of the manse, and planted alders, mountainash, laburnum, ash, elm, plane, and birch. The situation is exposed to the west wind, which, even in summer, is here so hurtful to vegetation, that it blackens the very nettles and docks. But they have struck their roots deep in rich earth, and I have much pleasure in observing their progress. Many of the original plants died gradually, but beautiful suckers shot up; and there is now the appearance of a shrubbery. The alders and mountain-ash seem to thrive best.

Under this head, it may be mentioned, that all kinds of esculents, flowers, and shrubs that suit the climate, grow with a remarkable luxuriance.

II. CIVIL HISTORY.

The late Sir W. Honeyman, one of the Senators of the College of Justice, was born at the family residence of Aikerness in Evie. His extensive possessions throughout Orkney have now all passed into the hands of other proprietors; and the ancient mansion was pulled down about fourteen years ago, to give place to a modern farm-house and steading.

The mother of Ralph and Ebenezer Erskine was of the family of Halcro, one of the oldest in Orkney, said to be lineally descended from a Norwegian King, and connected by marriage with the Royal House of Scotland. Margaret, the daughter of Hugh Halcro, was married to the Rev. Henry Erskine of Chirnside, at the kirk of Evie, 27th May 1696.*

It may not be uninteresting to record the certificate furnished her on that occasion, of which the following is a copy:

At the Kirk of Evie, May 27, 1666. To all and sundry into whose hands these