He was, he said, a fine-tempered beast, but the two others were great rascals.' One of them had once almost killed his keeper. I have got these poor beasts' allowance increased, in consideration of their long march; and that they may not be wronged, have ordered the mohout to give them all their gram in presence of a sentry. The gram is made up in cakes, about as large as the top of a hat-box, and baked on an earthen pot. Each contains a seer, and sixteen of them are considered as sufficient for one day's food for an elephant on a march. The suwarree elephant had only twelve, but I ordered him the full allowance, as well as an increase to the others. If they knew this, they would indeed be glad to see me.".

The morning was positively cold, and the whole scene, with the exercise of the march, the picturesque groups of men and animals round me,-the bracing air, the singing of birds, the light mist hanging on the trees, and the glistening dew, had something at once so Oriental and so English, I have seldom found any thing better adapted to raise a man's animal spirits, and put him in good temper with himself and all the world. How I wish those I love were with me! How much my wife would enjoy this sort of life,-its exercise, its cleanliness, and purity; its constant occupation, and at the same time its comparative freedom from form, care, and vexation! At the same time a man who is curious in his eating had better not come here. Lamb and kid (and we get no other flesh) most people would soon tire of. The only fowls which are attainable are as tough and lean as can be desired; and the milk and butter are generally seasoned with the never-failing condiments of Hindostan-smoke and soot. These, however, are matters to which it is not difficult to become reconciled; and all the more serious points of warmth, shade, cleanliness, air, and water, are at this season nowhere enjoyed better than in the spacious and well-contrived tents, the ample means of transport, the fine climate, and fertile regions of Northern Hindostan. Another time, by God's blessing, I will not be alone in this Eden; yet I confess that there are few people whom I greatly wish to have as associates in such a jour-I ney. It is only a wife, or a friend so intimate as to be quite another self, whom one is really anxious to be with one while travelling through a new country."

Instead of wishing, as we should have expected a Bishop to do, to move in the dignified and conspicuous circle at the seat of Government, it is interesting to find this exemplary person actually languishing for a more retired and obscure situation.

castes, and to inculcate a signal toleration. We can now afford, however, to give little more than the introductory narrative.

One of the most characteristic passages in the book, is the account of his interview with a learned and very liberal Brahmin in Guzerât, whom he understood to teach a far purer morality than is usually enjoined by his brethren, and also to discountenance the distinction of

"About eleven o'clock I had the expected visit from Swaamee Narain, to my interview with whom I had looked forward with an anxiety and eagerness which, if he had known it, would perhaps have flattered him. He came in a somewhat different style from what I expected; having with him nearly two hundred horsemen, mostly well-arined with matchlocks and swords, and several of them with coats of mail and spears. Besides them he had a large rabble on foot, with bows and arrows; and when I considered that I had myself more than fifty horse, and fifty muskets and bayonets, I could not help smiling, though my sensations were in some degree painful and humiliating, at the idea of two religious teachers meeting at the head of little armies and filling the city, which was the scene of their interview, with the rattling of quivers, the clash of shields, and the tramp of the war-horse. Had our troops been opposed to each other, mine, though less numerous, would have been doubtless far more effective, from the superiority of arms and discipline. But, in moral grandeur, what a difference was there between his troop and mine! Mine neither knew me nor cared for me. They escorted me faithfully, and would have defended me bravely. because they were ordered by their superiors to do so; and as they would have done for any other stranger of sufficient worldly rank to make such attendance usual. The guards of Swaamee Narain were his own disciples and enthusiastic admirers; men who had voluntarily repaired to hear his lessons, who now took a pride in doing him honour, and who would cheerfully fight to the last drop of blood rather than suffer a fringe of his garment to be handled roughly. In the parish of Hodnet there were once perhaps a few honest countrymen who felt something like this for me; but how long a time must elapse before any Christian teacher in India can hope to be thus loved and honoured!

"After the usual mutual compliments, I said that had heard much good of him, and the good doc. trine which he preached among the poor people of Guzerât, and that I greatly desired his acquaintance; that I regretted that I knew Hindostanee so imperfectly, but that I should be very glad, so far as my knowledge of the language allowed, and by the interpretation of friends, to learn what he believed on religious matters, and to tell him what I myself believed; and that if he would come and see I would have a tent pitched for him and treat him me at Kairah, where we should have more leisure, like a brother. I said this, because I was very earnestly desirous of getting him a copy of the Scriptures, of which I had none with me, in the Nagree character, and persuading him to read them; and because I had some further hopes of inducing him to go with me to Bombay, where I hoped that, by conciliatory treatment, and the conversations to which I might introduce him with the Church Missionary Society established in that neighbourhood, I might do him more good than I could otherwise hope.

"I saw that both he, and, still more, his disciples, were highly pleased by the invitation which I gave him; but he said, in reply, that his life was one of

"Do you know, dearest, that I sometimes think we should be more useful, and happier, if Cawnpoor or Benares, not Calcutta, were our home?My visitations would be made with far more convenience, the expense of house rent would be less to the Company, and our own expenses of living would be reduced very considerably. The air, even of Cawnpoor, is, I apprehend, better than that of Bengal, and that of Benares decidedly so. The greater part of my business with government may be done as well by letters as personal interviews; and, if the Archdeacon of Calcutta were resident there, it seems more natural that the Bishop of India should remain in the centre of his diocese.very little leisure; that he had five thousand disciples The only objection is the great number of Christians now attending on his preaching in the neighbouring in Calcutta, and the consequent probability that my villages, and nearly fifty thousand in different parts preaching is more useful there than it would be any of Guzerât; that a great number of these were to where else. We may talk these points over when assemble together in the course of next week, on occasion of his brother's son coming of age to receive the Brahminical string; but that if I staid long enough in the neighbourhood to allow him to get this engagement over, he would gladly come again to see me. 'In the meantime,' I said, 'have you any objection to communicate some part of came to do; and his disciples very visibly exulted your doctrine now? It was evidently what he in the opportunity of his perhaps converting me."

we meet.'

The conference is too long to extract, but it is very curious; though the result fell something short of what the worthy Bishop, in the zeal of his benevolence, had anticipated.We should now leave the subject of the author's personal character; but it shines out so strongly in the account of the sudden death of one of his English friends and fellow-travellers, that we cannot refrain from gratifying our readers and ourselves with one other extract. Mr. Stowe, the individual alluded to, died after a short illness at Dacca. The day after his burial, the Bishop writes to his wife as follows:


On the day after, he writes in these terms to Miss Stowe, the sister of his departed friend :


Sincerely as I have mourned, and do mourn him continually, the moment perhaps at which I felt his loss most keenly was on my return to this house. I had always after airings, or other short absences, been accustomed to run up immediately to his room to ask about his medicines and his nourishment, to find if he had wanted any thing during my absence, and to tell him what I had seen and heard. And now, as I went up stairs, I felt most painfully that the object of my solicitude was gone, and that there was nobody now to derive comfort or help from my coming, or whose eyes would faintly sparkle as I opened the door.

"I had heard much of the airy and gandy style of Oriental architecture; a notion, I apprehend, taken from that of China only, since solidity, solem

"It will be long before I forget the guilelessness of his nature, the interest which he felt and expressed in all the beautiful and sequestered scenery which we passed through; his anxiety to be useful to me in any way which I could point out to him, (he was indeed very useful,) and above all, the un-nity, and a richness of ornament, so well managed affected pleasure which he took in discussing relias not to interfere with solemnity, are the charac gious subjects; his diligence in studying the Bible, teristics of all the ancient buildings which I have and. the fearless humanity with which he examined met with in this country. I recollect no correspond. the case, and administered to the wants, of nine ing parts of Windsor at all equal to the entrance poor Hindoos, the crew of a salt-barge, whom, as of the castle of Delhi and its marble hall of auI mentioned in my Journal, we found lying sick dience; and even Delhi falls very short of Agra in together of a jungle fever, unable to leave the place situation, in majesty of outline, in size, and the where they lay, and unaided by the neighbouring costliness and beauty of its apartments." villagers. I then little thought how soon he in his turn would require the aid he gave so cheerfully."

[ocr errors]
[ocr errors]

am only anxious to serve. In my dear Emily y will already have had a most affectionate and se

sible counsellor."

With a heavy heart, my dear Miss Stowe, I send you the enclosed keys. How to offer you consolation in your present grief, I know not; for by my own deep sense of the loss of an excellent friend, I know how much heavier must be your burden. Separation of one kind or another is, deed, one of the most frequent trials to which affectionate hearts are exposed. And if you can only regard your brother as removed for his own advantage to a distant country, you will find, perhaps, some of that misery alleviated under which you are now suffering. Had you remained in England when he came out hither, you would have been, for a time, divided no less effectually than you are now. The difference of hearing from him is almost all; and though you now have not that comfort, yet even without hearing from him you may be well persuaded (which there you could not always have been) that he is well and happy; and, above all, you may be persuaded, as your dear brother was most fully in his time of severest suffering, that God never smites his children in vain, or out of cruelty.

We dare not venture on any part, either of the descriptions of scenery and antiquities, or of the persons and presentations at the several native courts. But we have no hesitation in recon

commending them as by far the best and most interesting, in both sorts, that we have ever met with. The account of his journeyings and adventures in the mountain region at the foot of the Himalaya is peculiarly striking. from the affecting resemblance the author s continually tracing to the scenery of his be his most beloved Hodnet! Of the natives. loved England, his more beloved Wales, or in all their orders, he is a most indulgent and liberal judge, as well as a very exact observer. He estimates their civilisation higher, we think, than any other traveller who has given. an account of them, and is very much struck with the magnificence of their architecturethough very sceptical as to the high antiquity to which some of its finest specimens pretend We cannot afford to give any of the splendid and luminous descriptious in which the work abounds. In a private letter he says,—

The following is a summary of his opinion of the people, which follows in the same letter:

"Of the people, so far as their natural character is concerned, I have been led to form, on the whole, a very favourable opinion. They have, unhappily, many of the vices arising from slavery, from an unsettled state of society, and immoral and erroneous systems of religion. But they are men of high and gallant courage, courteous, intelligent, and most eager after knowledge and improvement, with a rein-markable aptitude for the abstract sciences, geometry, astronomy, &c., and for the imitative arts, painting and sculpture. They are sober, industrious, dutiful to their parents, and affectionate to their children, of tempers almost uniformly gentle and patient, and more easily affected by kindness and attention to their wants and feelings than almost any men whom I have met with. Their faults seem to arise from the hateful superstitions to which they are subject, and the unfavourable state of society in which they are placed.


More has been done, and more successfully, to obviate these evils in the Presidency of Bombay, than in any part of India which I have vet visited, through the wise and liberal policy of Mr. Elphinstone; to whom this side of the Peninsula is also indebted for some very important and efficient im provements in the administration of justice, and who, both in amiable temper and manners, ex'en. sive and various information, acute good sense, energy, and application to business, is one of the most extraordinary men, as he is quite the most popular governor, that I have fallen in with."

"So long as you choose to remain with us, we will be, to our power, a sister and a brother to you. And it may be worth your consideration whether, in your present state of health and spirits, a journey, in my wife's society, will not be better for you than a dreary voyage home. But this is a point on which you must decide for yourself; I would scarcely venture to advise, far less dictate, where I gives more new and valuable information

The following is also very important; and

sent to the pictures of depravity and general worthlessness which some have drawn of the Hindoos. They are decidedly, by nature, a mild, pleasing, and intelligent race; sober, parsimonious, and, where an object is held out to them, nost industrious and persevering. But the magistrates and lawyers all agree that in no country are lying and perjury so common, and so little regarded; and notwithstanding the apparent mildness of their manners, the criminal calendar is generally as full as in Ireland, with gang-robberies, setting fire to buildings, stacks, &c.; and the number of children who are decoyed aside and murdered, for the sake of their ornaments, Lord Amherst assures me, is dreadful.”

than many pretending volumes, by men who have been half their lives in the countries to which they relate :—

"Of the people of this country, and the manner in which they are governed, I have, as yet, hardly seen enough to form an opinion. I have seen enough, however, to find that the customs, the habits, and prejudices of the former are much misunderstood in England. We have all heard, for instance, of the humanity of the Hindoos towards brute creatures, their horror of animal food, &c.; and you may be, perhaps, as much surprised as I was, to find that those who can afford it are hardly less carnivorous than ourselves; that even the purest Brahmins are allowed to eat mutton and venison; that fish is permitted to many castes, and pork to many others; and that, though they consider it a grievous crime to kill a cow or bullock for the purpose of eating, yet they treat their draft oxen, no less than their horses, with a degree of barbarous severity which would turn an English hackney coachman sick. Nor have their religious prejudices, and the unchangeableness of their habits, been less exaggerated. Some of the best informed of their nation, with whom I have conversed, assure me that half their most remarkable customs of civil and domestic life are borrowed from their Mahomable medan conquerors; and at present there is an obvious and increasing disposition to imitate the Eng. lish in every thing, which has already led to very remarkable changes, and will, probably, to still more important. The wealthy natives now all affect to have their houses decorated with Corinthian pillars, and filled with English furniture. They drive the best horses and the most dashing carriages in Calcutta. Many of them speak English fluently, and are tolerably read in English literature; and the children of one of our friends I saw one day dressed in jackets and trousers, with round hats, shoes and stockings. In the Bengalee newspapers, of which there are two or three, politics are canvassed, with a bias, as I am told, inclining to Whiggism; and one of their leading men gave a great dinner not long since in honour of the Spanish Revolution. Among the lower orders the same feeling shows itself more beneficially, in a growing neglect of caste-in not merely a willingness, but an anxiety, to send their children to our schools, and a desire to learn and speak English, which, if properly encouraged, might, I verily believe, in fifty years' time, make our language what the Oordoo, or court and camp language of the country (the Hindostanee), is at present. And though instances of actual conversion to Christianity are, as yet, very uncommon, yet the number of children, both male and female, who are now receiving a sort of Christian education, reading the New Testa-tainly many hindrances; though even their objecment, repeating the Lord's Prayer and Command-tion to eating with us might, so far as the Mussulments, and all with the consent, or at least without mans are concerned, I think, be conquered by any the censure, of their parents or spiritual guides, popular man in the upper provinces, who made the have increased, during the last two years, to an attempt in a right way. But there are some of our amount which astonishes the old European resi- amusements, such as private theatrical entertaindents, who were used to tremble at the name of a ments and the sports of the field, in which they Missionary, and shrink from the common duties of would be delighted to share, and invitations to which Christianity, lest they should give offence to their would be regarded by them as extremely flattering, heathen neighbours. So far from that being a con- if they were not, perhaps with some reason, voted sequence of the zeal which has been lately shown, bores, and treated accordingly. The French, under many of the Brahmins themselves express admira- Perron and Des Boignes, who in more serious mattion of the morality of the Gospel, and profess to ters left a very bad name behind them, had, in this entertain a better opinion of the English since they particular, a great advantage over us; and the easy have found that they too have a religion and a Shas- and friendly intercourse in which they lived with All that seems necessary for the best effects natives of rank, is still often regretted in Agra and to follow is, to let things take their course; to make the Dooab. This is not all, however. The foolish the Missionaries discreet; to keep the government pride of the English absolutely leads them to set at as it now is, strictly neuter; and to place our confi- nought the injunctions of their own Government. dence in a general diffusion of knowledge, and in The Tussildars, for instance, or principal active making ourselves really useful to the temporal as officers of revenue, ought, by an order of council, well as spiritual interests of the people among whom to have chairs always offered them in the presence we live. of their European superiors; and the same, by the "In all these points there is, indeed, great room standing orders of the army, should be done to the for improvement: But I do not by any means as-Soubahdars. Yet there are hardly six collectors in

"I have not been led to believe that our Government is generally popular, or advancing towards popularity. It is, perhaps, impossible that we should be so in any great degree; yet I really think there are some causes of discontent which it is in our own power, and which it is our duty to remove or diminish. One of these is the distance and haughtiness with which a very large proportion of the civil and military servants of the Company treat the upper and middling class of natives. Against their mixing much with us in society, there are cer


We may add the following direct testimony on a point of some little curiosity, which has been alternately denied and exaggerated :—

66 At Broach is one of those remarkable institu

tions which have made a good deal of noise in Europe, as instances of Hindoo benevolence to inferior animals. I mean hospitals for sick and infirm beasts, birds, and insects. I was not able to visit it; but Mr. Corsellis described it as a very dirty and neglected place, which, though it has considerendowments in land, only serves to enrich the Brahmins who manage it. They have really animals of several different kinds there, not only those which are accounted sacred by the Hindoos, as monkeys, peacocks, &c., but horses, dogs, and cats; and they have also, in little boxes, an assortment of lice and fleas! It is not true, however, that they feed those pensioners on the flesh of beggars hired for the purpose. The Brahmins say that these insects, as well as the other inmates of their infirmary, are fed with vegetables only, such as rice, &c. How the insects thrive, I did not hear; but the old horses and dogs, nay the peacocks and said to be in any tolerable plight are some milch apes, are allowed to starve; and the only creatures cows, which may be kept from other motives than charity."

He adds afterwards,—

India who observe the former etiquette: and the latter, which was fifteen years ago never omitted in the army, is now completely in disuse. At the same time, the regulations of which I speak are known to every Tussildar and Soubahdar in India, and they feel themselves aggrieved every time these civilities are neglected."

tion of Justice; especially in the local or district courts, called Adawulut, which the costliness and intricacy of the proceedings, and the needless introduction of the Persian language, have made sources of great practical oppres sion, and objects of general execration throughout the country. At the Bombay Presidency Mr. Elphinstone has discarded the Persian, and appointed every thing to be done in the ordinary language of the place.

And here we are afraid we must take leave of this most instructive and delightful publication; which we confidently recommend to our readers, not only as more likely to amuse them than any book of travels with which we are acquainted, but as calculated to enlighten their understandings, and to touch their hearts with a purer flame than they generally catch from most professed works of philosophy or devotion. It sets before us, in every page, the most engaging example of devotion to God and good-will to man; and, touching every object with the light of a clear judgment and a pure heart, exhibits the rare spectacle of a work written by a priest upon religious creeds and establishments, without a shade of intolerance; and bringing under review the characters of a vast multitude of eminent individuals, without one trait either of sarcasm

Of the state of the Schools, and of Education in general, he speaks rather favourably; and is very desirous that, without any direct attempt at conversion, the youth should be generally exposed to the humanising influence of the New Testament morality, by the general introduction of that holy book, as a lesson book in the schools; a matter to which he states positively that the natives, and even their Brahminical pastors, have no sort of objection. Talking of a female school, lately established at Calcutta, under the charge of a very pious and discreet lady, he observes, that "Rhadacant Deb, one of the wealthiest natives in Calcutta, and regarded as the most austere and orthodox of the worshippers of the Ganges, bade, some time since, her pupils go on and prosper; and added, that if they practised the Sermon on the Mount as well as they repeated it, he would choose all the handmaids for his daughters, and his wives, from the English school.'"'

He is far less satisfied with the administra-or adulation.

[ocr errors]

(October, 1824.)

1. Sketches of India. Written by an OFFICER, for Fire-Side Travellers at Home. Second Edition, with Alterations. 8vo. pp. 358. London: 1824.

2. Scenes and Impressions in Egypt and Italy. By the Author of Sketches of India, and Recollections of the Peninsula. 8vo. pp. 452. London: 1824.

THESE are very amiable books:-and, be- | them, will be more generally agreeable than sides the good sentiments they contain, they a digest of the information they might have are very pleasing specimens of a sort of travel-acquired. We would by no means undervalue writing, to whic we have often regretted the researches of more learned and laborious that so few of those who roam loose about the persons, especially in countries rarely visited: world will now condescend-we mean a brief But, for common readers, their discussions and simple notice of what a person of ordinary require too much previous knowledge, and information and common sensibility may see too painful an effort of attention. They are and feel in passing through a new country, not books of travels, in short, but works of which he visits without any learned prepara- science and philosophy; and as the principal tion, and traverses without any particular ob- delight of travelling consists in the impressions ject. There are individuals, no doubt, who which we receive, almost passively, from the travel to better purpose, and collect more presentment of new objects, and the reflecweighty information-exploring, and record- tions to which they spontaneously give rise, ing as they go, according to their several so the most delightful books of travels should habits and measures of learning, the mineral- be those that give us back those impressions ogy, antiquities, or statistics of the different in their first freshness and simplicity, and exregions they survey. But the greater part, cite us to follow out the train of feelings and even of intelligent wanderers, are neither so reflection into which they lead us, by the diambitious in their designs, nor so industrious rect and unpretending manner in which they in their execution; and, as most of those are suggested. By aiming too ambitiously at who travel for pleasure, and find pleasure in instruction and research, this charm is lost; travelling, are found to decline those tasks, and we often close these copious dissertations which might enrol them among the contribu- and details, needlessly digested in the form tors to science, while they turned all their of a journal, without having the least idea movements into occasions of laborious study, how we, or any other ordinary person, would it seems reasonable to think that a lively and have felt as companions of the journey-thosuccinct account of what actually delighted roughly convinced, certainly, that we should


not have occupied ourselves as the writers before us seem to have been occupied; and pretty well satisfied, after all, that they themselves were not so occupied during the most agreeable hours of their wanderings, and had omitted in their books what they would most frequently recall in their moments of enjoyment and leisure.

Nor are these records of superficial observation to be disdained as productive of entertainment only, or altogether barren of instruction. Very often the surface presents all that is really worth considering-or all that we are capable of understanding;-and our observer, we are taking it for granted, is, though no great philosopher, an intelligent and educated man-looking curiously at all that presents itself, and making such passing inquiries as may satisfy a reasonable curiosity, without greatly disturbing his indolence or delaying his progress. Many themes of reflection and topics of interest will be thus suggested, which more elaborate and exhausting discussions would have strangled in the birth-while, in the variety and brevity of the notices which such a scheme of writing implies, the mind of the reader is not only more agreeably excited, but is furnished, in the long run, with more materials for thinking, and solicited to more lively reflections, than by any quantity of exact knowledge on plants, stones, ruins, manufactures, or history.

Such, at all events, is the merit and the charm of the volumes before us. They place us at once by the side of the author and bring before our eyes and minds the scenes he has passed through, and the feelings they suggested. In this last particular, indeed, we are entirely at his mercy; and we are afraid he sometimes makes rather an unmerciful use of his power. It is one of the hazards of this way of writing, that it binds us up in the strictest intimacy and closest companionship with the author. Its attraction is in its direct personal sympathy-and its danger in the temptation it holds out to abuse it. It enables us to share the grand spectacles with which the traveller is delighted-but compels us in a manner to share also in the sentiments with which he is pleased to connect them. For the privilege of seeing with his eyes, we must generally renounce that of using our own judgment-and submit to adopt implicitly the tone of feeling which he has found most congenial with the scene.

On the present occasion, we must say, the reader, on the whole, has been fortunate. The author, though an officer in the King's service, and not without professional predilections, is, generally speaking, a speculative, sentimental, saintly sort of person-with a taste for the picturesque, a singularly poetical cast of diction, and a mind deeply imbued with principles of philanthropy and habits of affection:-And if there is something of fadaise now and then in his sentiments, and something of affectation in his style, it is no more than we can easily forgive, in consideration of his brevity, his amiableness, and variety.

The "Sketches of India," a loose-printed octavo of 350 pages, is the least interesting perhaps of the two volumes now before usthough sufficiently marked with all that is characteristic of the author. It may be as well to let him begin at the beginning.

"On the afternoon of July the 10th, 1818, our vessel dropped anchor in Madras Roads, after a fine run of three months and ten days from the Motherbank.-How changed the scene! how great the contrast!-Ryde, and its little snug dwellings, with slated or thatched roofs, its neat gardens, its green noble-looking buildings, tall columns, lofty veran and sloping shores. Madras and its naked fort, dahs, and terraced roofs. The city, large and crowded, on a flat site; a low sandy beach, and a foaming surf. The roadstead, there, alive with beautiful yachts, light wherries, and tight-built boats, with their naked crews, singing the same fishing barks. Here, black, shapeless Massoolah wild (yet not unpleasing) air, to which, for ages, the dangerous surf they fearlessly ply over has been rudely responsive.

"I shall never forget the sweet and strange sensations which, as I went peacefully forward, the new objects in nature excited in my bosom. The rich broad-leaved plantain; the gracefully drooping bamboo; the cocoa nut, with that mat-like-looking binding for every branch; the branches themselves waving with a feathery motion in the wind; the bare lofty trunk and fan-leaf of the tall palm; the aloes; the prickly pear; the stately banian with slender and elegant stem of the areca; the large drop-branches, here fibrous and pliant, there strong and columnar, supporting its giant arms, and forming around the parent stem a grove of beauty; and among these wonders, birds, all strange in plumage and in note, save the parroquet (at home, the lady's pet-bird in a gilded cage), here spreading his bright natural and untaught scream. green wings in happy fearless flight, and giving his

"It was late and dark when we reached Poonamallee; and during the latter part of our march we had heavy rain. We found no fellow-countryman to welcome us: But the mess-room was open and lighted, a table laid, and a crowd of smart, roguishlooking natives, seemed waiting our arrival to seek service-Drenched to the skin, without changes of linen, or any bedding, we sat down to the repast provided; and it would have been difficult to have found in India, perhaps, at the moment, a more ing natives, in white dresses, with red or white cheerful party than ours.-Four five clean-lookturbans, ear-rings of gold, or with emerald drops, and large silver signet rings on their fingers, crowded round each chair, and watched our every glance, to anticipate our wishes. Curries, vegetables, and fruits, all new to us, were tasted and pronounced upon; and after a meal, of which every one seemed to partake with grateful good humour, we lay down for the night. One attendant brought a small carpet, another a mat, others again a sheet or counterpane, till all were provided with something; and thus closed our first evening in India. The morning for, was shaving a man as he still lay dozing! there, scene was very ludicrous. Here, a barber uncalled another was cracking the joints of a man half dressed; here were two servants, one pouring water on, the other washing, a Saheb's hands. In spite of my efforts to prevent them, two well-dressed lad dexteronsly putting on the clothes of a sleepy men were washing my feet; and near me was a brother officer, as if he had been an infant under his care-There was much in all this to amuse the mind, and a great deal, I confess, to pain the heart of a free-born Englishman." Sketches of India, pp. 3—10. With all this profusion of attendance, the march of a British officer in India seems a matter rather of luxury than fatigue.

« 前へ次へ »