Armidel is a neat house, built where the Macdonalds had once a feat, which was burnt in the commotions that followed the Revolution. The walled orchard, which belonged to the former houfe, ftill remains. It is well fhaded by tall afh trees, of a fpecies, as Mr. Janes the foffilift informed me, uncommonly valuable. This plantation is very properly mentioned by Dr. Campbell, in his new account of the state of Britain, and deferves attention; because

it

proves that the prefent nakedness of the Hebrides is not wholly the fault of nature.

As we fat at Sir Alexander's table, we were entertained, according to the ancient ufage of the North, with the melody of the bagpipe. Every thing in thofe countries has its history. As the bagpiper was playing, an elderly gentleman informed us, that in fome remote time, the Macdonalds of Glengary having been injured, or offended by the inhabitants of Culloden,

and

and refolving to have juftice or vengeance, came to Culloden on a Sunday, where finding their enemies at worship, they fhut them up in the church, which they fet on fire; and this, faid he, is the tune that the piper played while they were burning.

Narrations like this, however uncertain, deserve the notice of a traveller, because they are the only records of a nation that has no hiftorians, and afford the moft genuine reprefentation of the life and character of the ancient Highlanders.

Under the denomination of Highlander are comprehended in Scotland all that now fpeak the Erfe language, or retain the primitive manners, whether they live among the mountains or in the iflands; and in that fenfe I use the name, when there is 'not fome apparent reafon for making a diftinction.

In

In Sky I firft obferved the use of Brogues, a kind of artless shoes, ftitched with thongs fo loosely, that though they defend the foot from ftones, they do not exclude water. Brogues were formerly made of raw hides, with the hair inwards, and fuch are perhaps ftill ufed in rude and remote parts; but they are faid not to laft above two days. Where life is fomewhat improved, they are now made of leather tanned with oak bark, as in other places, or with the bark of birch, or roots of tormentil, a fubftance recommended in defect of bark, about forty years ago, to the Irish tanners, by one to whom the parliament of that kingdom voted a reward. The leather of Sky is not completely penetrated by vegetable matter, and therefore cannot be very durable.

My inquiries about brogues, gave me an early fpecimen of Highland informa

tion. One day I was told, that to make brogues was a domestick art, which every man practifed for himself, and that a pair of brogues was the work of an hour. I supposed that the husband made brogues as the wife made an apron, till next day it was told me, that a brogue-maker was a trade, and that a pair would coft half a crown. It will eafily occur that thefe reprefentations may both be true, and that, in fome places, men may buy them, and in others, make them for themselves; but I had both the accounts in the fame house within two days.

Many of my fubfequent inquiries upon more interesting topicks ended in the like uncertainty. He that travels in the Highlands may easily faturate his foul with intelligence, if he will acquiefce in the first account. The Highlander gives to every queftion an answer fo prompt and peremptory, that skepticifm itfelf is dared into filence,

filence, and the mind finks before the bold reporter in unrefifting credulity; but, if a fecond question be ventured, it breaks the enchantment; for it is immediately dif covered, that what was told fo confidently was told at hazard, and that fuch fearleffness of affertion was either the fport of negli gence, or the refuge of ignorance.

If individuals are thus at variance with themselves, it can be no wonder that the accounts of different men are contradictory. The traditions of an ignorant and favage people have been for ages negligently heard, and unskilfully related. Diftant events must have been mingled together, and the actions of one man given to another. Thefe, however, are deficiencies in ftory, for which no man is now to be cenfured. It were enough, if what there is yet opportunity of examining were accurately infpected, and juftly reprefented; but fuch is the laxity of Highland conversation, that

the