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est, from historical association, than the venerable old house at the head of the Netherbow, (a very accurate engraving of which adorns this volume,) once the residence of my namesake, that holy man of God, John Knox.
To the energy, decision, sham-hating, truthloving, God-fearing spirit of John Knox, Scotland owes her religious liberty, as she does her civil freedom to the patriotism of Bruce. To them she owes her regeneration—they were both heroes, but the glory of the former far outshines that of the latter-Bruce attained an earthly crown, but a far brighter, even a heavenly diadern, encircles the brow of Scotland's great Reformer. The memory of the just shall live, and the name of John Knox is held in the highest reverence, not only in his own country, but throughout the Protestant world.
This old-fashioned edifice, which was fast falling to decay, has been recently repaired, without destroying its ancient appearance, by the worthy citizens of Edinburgh, who wish to preserve, by some prominent mark, the remembrance of one who did so much for Scotland. Over the door is this curious inscription :
LUF. GOD. ABOVE. AL. AND. YOUR. NEIGHBOUR. AS. YOURSELF.
I had the pleasure of an interview with Professor Wilson, the celebrated Christopher North of Blackwood. He lives in a very handsome house in Gloucester Place, in the new town. I was shown by a servant into a room, the walls of which were profusely adorned with paintings. I had been seated but a few minutes when the Professor appeareda tall, strongly built, noble looking man, with large chest, fine forehead, shaggy hair, and great whiskers. He received me very kindly. I apologized for intruding upon him, but he soon set me at ease by his agreeable and lively manner. He is now considerably advanced in years, (perhaps sixty,) and yet there is all the sprightliness of manner and energy of mind which one would expect in youth or middle age. He inquired about our American literary men—said that Mr. Bancroft had spent some time with him not long since—that Mr. Bryant had also called on him, but being absent, he did not see him ; spoke of Prescott, and the merit of his histories ; of Longfellow, and the finish that characterized his poems; mentioned that he had just received two volumes from Mr. Dana, and seemed quite at home on the subject of our American literature. He inquired about the length
of my voyage, &c., and seerned to think it not impossible that he might yet take a trip to the “ model republic.” After some further conversation on miscellaneous subjects, and assuring him that few would receive a kinder welcome in America than he, should he ever favor us with a visit, I took rny leave.
I had an introduction to Hugh Miller, the author of the two celebrated works, the 66 Old Red Sandstone,” and the “Foot-prints of the Creator.” The latter volume, which is a masterly refutation of that pernicious and infidel book, the - Vestiges of Creations,” has already had a large circulation in this country, though but recently published. These volumes, invaluable to students of geology and men of science, are sufficient to establish the fame of any writer.* He was formerly a stone-cutter, and labored many years at this trade; and is now editor of the Witness, the great religious organ of Scotland. He is a zealous geologist, and amid his literary labors pursues this, his favorite study, with great avidity.
On Sabbath morning I attended service at Dr. Guthrie's church. This church is a very neat edifice of cut stone, with long, narrow windows on both sides, and a fine large one, with stained glass, at the east end. The pulpit, which is elegantly carved, is placed on graceful pillars, with pews directly under it, which are occupied by blind persons from one of the city asylums. Over the pulpit there is a beautiful canopy of finely-carved oak. A large square pew, immediately in front of the pulpit, is for the use of the elders and deacons, but was, on this occasion, filled principally with ministers from the country. The precentor stands near the middle of the church. There is no choir, organ, or instrumental music of any kind. They use the old version of the Psalms of David. The Doctor is tall and thin, and, on account of delicate health, preaches only in the morning. He is assisted by the Rev. Dr. Hanna, son-in-law and biographer of the late Dr. Chalmers. His style of preaching is of the earnest, impassic ned kind, introducing the most striking and beautiful illustrations, as well as occasionally touching and appropriate anecdotes. He was preaching on behalf of the Edinburgh City Mission. He does not use notes. His text was from Isaiah xxiii. 18. After hearing this discourse, I ceased to wonder that the Free Church of Scotland should have contributed so largely to the cause of benevolence, when that cause was pleaded by so eloquent and powerful an advocate. The plates for collections are placed at the doors, and persons in passing either in or out deposit in them their contributions. What is given in this way becomes strictly a voluntary offering.
* They have been reprinted in Boston, by Gould & Lincoln.
In the afternoon I went to hear Dr. Candlish; but on arriving at his church, I learned that he was not to preach there, but in Holyrood Free Church, which is a great distance from his own. Nothing discouraged, however, I determined to fol. low him. When I got to the church, I found that the preliminary exercises being over, he was about to commence his sermon. He is quite a small man, perhaps near fifty, but full of energy and life. His voice is a little thick, and, to one unaccustomed to it, appears indistinct. He reads closely. He took for his text Exodus i. 6 : “ And Joseph died, and all his brethren, and all that generation.” In commencing, he compared human life to the passing away of the seasons. Only there was this difference—in the successive generations of the human race there is no wide gap