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of my voyage, &c, and seemed to think it not impossible that he might yet take a trip to the "model republic." After some further conversation on miscellaneous subjects, and assuring him that few would receive a kinder welcome in America than he, should he ever favor us with a visit, I took my leave.
I had an introduction to Hugh Miller, the author of the two celebrated works, the "Old Red Sandstone," and the "Foot-prints of the Creator." The latter volume, which is a masterly refutation of that pernicious and infidel book, the " Vestiges of Creations," has already had a large circulation in this country, though but recently published. These volumes, invaluable to students of geology and men of science, are sufficient to establish the fame of any writer.* He was formerly a stone-cutter, and labored many years at this trade; and is now editor of the "Witness, the great religious organ of Scotland. He is a zealous geologist, and amid his literary labors pursues this, his favorite study, with great avidity.
On Sabbath morning I attended service at Dr.
*They have been reprinted in Boston, l>v Gould & Lincoln.
Guthrie's church. This church is a very neat edifice of cut stone, with long, narrow windows on both sides, and a fine large one, with stained glass, at the east end. The pulpit, which is elegantly carved, is placed on graceful pillars, with pews directly under it, which are occupied by blind persons from one of the city asylums. Over the pulpit there is a beautiful canopy of finely-carved oak. A large square pew, immediately in front of the pulpit, is for the use of the elders and deacons, but was, on this occasion, filled principally with ministers from the country. The precentor stands near the middle of the church. There is no choir, organ, or instrumental music of any kind. They use the old version of the Psalms of David. The Doctor is tall and thin, and, on account of delicate health, preaches only in the morning. He is assisted by the Rev. Dr. Hanna, son-in-law and biographer of the late Dr. Chalmers. His style of preaching is of the earnest, impassir ned kind, introducing the most striking and beautiful illustrations, as well as occasionally touching and appropriate anecdotes. He was preaching on behalf of the Edinburgh City Mission. He does not use notes. His text was from Isaiah xxiii. 18. After hearing this discourse, I ceased to wonder that the Free Church of Scotland should have contributed so largely to the cause of benevolence, when that cause was pleaded by so eloquent and powerful an advocate. The plates for collections are placed at the doors, and persons in passing either in or out deposit in them their contributions. What is given in this way becomes strictly a voluntary offering.
In the afternoon I went to hear Dr. Candlish; but on arriving at his church, I learned that he was not to preach there, but in Holyrood Free Church, which is a great distance from his own. Nothing discouraged, however, I determined to follow him. When I got to the church, I found that the preliminary exercises being over, he was about to commence his sermon. He is quite a small man, perhaps near fifty, but full of energy and life. His voice is a little thick, and, to one unaccustomed to it, appears indistinct. He reads closely. He took for his text Exodus i. 6: "And Joseph died, and all his brethren, and all that generation." In commencing, he compared human life to the passing away of the seasons. Only there was this difference—in the successive generations of the human race there is no wide gap like that of winter. Imperceptibly and by slow degrees, the actors in human life are changed— though generations come and go, the ocean of the world is always full. What a commentary are these words on the history of which they are the striking close! It was previously a busy scene, and now, as by a magic spell, the whole multitude are gone. What an obituary—how comprehensive, and yet how concise! He then took up the separate parts of the text: 1. And Joseph died ; 2. and all his brethren; 3. and all that generation— which he discussed with great ability. His style is entirely different from Dr. Guthrie's, though each has his own peculiar excellence. Guthrie is warm, lively, and off-hand—Candlish sententious, concise, and fond of antithesis. The former seems to appeal most to the feelings, the latter to the reasoning faculties; though in persons differently constituted, each would perhaps equally reach the heart. I give this merely as a hastily formed opinion, as, of course, hearing one sermon from each is scarcely sufficient on which to found a mature judgment.
"With awe-struck thonght anil pitying tears,
Holyrood Palace, the ancient residence of Scottish royalty, is a handsome edifice, of quadrangular form, with a central court about ninety feet square. From time to time it has been rebuilt, remodeled, and repaired, until no part retains its original aspect, except the wing in which are the apartments known as Queen Mary's.
In going through it, the first room we were shown was the portrait gallery, containing likenesses of the Scottish sovereigns from the earliest period. In another room we were shown the chair of state, made for Queen Mary and Darnley, a double seat with large cushions, and of a very ancient fashion. The ceilings of many of the rooms are made of finely panneled oak, on which are painted the arms of the Stuarts. In Queen Mary's bedroom we were shown the identi