Excursion to the Rusland and Grisedale Vales, and to Hawkshead and Esthwaite Water.

Rusland, 44m.; Force Mills, 6m.; Satterthwaite, 7m.; Grisedale, 8m.; Hawkshead, 11m.; The Ferry, 16m.

An agreeable day's outing may be had by sailing down the lake to Newby Bridge, and going thence up the Rusland and Grisedale vales to Hawkshead and Esthwaite Water. The ground is richly wooded, and the scenery calm and peaceful.

From the Swan Inn, at Newby Bridge, enter the road having the river on the left, and cross the railway. About 1m. from the village, a road turns to the right for Finsthwaite, and another road leads to the left. Keep straight forward for another m. until an arm of the sea, the Greenodd Sands, and the monument at Ulverston are visible. Here branch to the right. The road now runs high up along the side of a hill, with the beautiful vale of Rusland on the left, and in the distance the Coniston and Wetherlam mountains. The hills close at hand are not very high, but they are charmingly diversified with rock, copse-wood, and a variety of trees, principally Scotch firs and yews. The breast of Yewbarrow, which is skirted by the road, is perhaps more beautiful than anything of the kind in the Lake District.

A remarkably fine row of about 100 large beech trees is passed, and then a descent is made into the vale of Rusland. The road crosses the valley to Rusland Hall. When at the Hall, take the left-hand road. On crossing the beck and passing the church, the road ascends a low moorland fell, and commands a view of rocky undulating hills covered with copse-wood and larches. A descent is quickly made to a charming hamlet called Force Mills, which contains some bobbin-works. The tourist will be attracted by a waterfall, which tumbles over a series of wide picturesque ledges of rock, half hid by the surrounding foliage. There is not a large body of water, except after heavy rains.

The traveller has now the choice of routes. Hawks

head can be reached in two ways, either by the Grisedale Vale or the Dale Park Glen. Both are beautiful. The former is the nearer way, but the latter allows of the south shore of the Esthwaite Water being traversed. To reach Grisedale, Satterthwaite has to be passed through. It is a cheerful-looking village, containing a church, and situated in a peaceful vale, surrounded by low, well-wooded hills.

Grisedale is 1m. distant, and is equally charming. A steep path leads to the top of Hawkshead Moor, and then a capital view is had of many high mountains to the N. and W. On descending a few yards Esthwaite Lake appears immediately below, and presently Hawkshead is reached, a quaint and pretty little market-town, with an excellent inn, the Red Lion. The Church is a prominent object, on an eminence which commands a pleasing view of the lake and vale. Here is a Free Grammar School, founded in 1585 by Edwin Sandys, Archbishop of York. Some years ago this was a farfamed academy, and at one time contained 120 pupils. The poet Wordsworth, and his brother Dr. Wordsworth, were educated here. Till the end of his life the poet cherished fond recollections of Hawkshead and the scenes around it.

Esthwaite Water is 2m. long, m. broad, 217 ft. above the sea level; and its greatest depth is 80 ft. A carriageroad goes round it. The scenery is purely pastoral; green fields, plantations, and farm-houses give to the valley a pleasant, cheerful aspect. Lofty distant mountains peer from other vales into this, and, by reminding the resident of sternness and sterility, help to impress a feeling of happy contentedness.

A pool near the N. end of the lake is said to have contained a floating islet, upon which grew a few trees. The islet, which only moved about before a strong breeze, has of late become attached to the shore. An old inhabitant informed the writer that he remembers it getting fixed to the side many years ago, and how he assisted setting it afloat again, by tying ropes to the

trees and pulling it from the shore. Esthwaite Water is the scene of Wordsworth's fine description in the 'Prelude' of skating by moonlight.

Tourists who are fond of fishing and quiet rural seclusion, ought to take up their abode here for some little time. For such persons Hawkshead is very suitable. At the inn may be had comfortable lodgings and good fare at a reasonable rate. The lake is well stocked with trout, pike, perch, and eels; and in Watson Tyson, an old resident, a genuine representative of Isaac Walton will be found, who knows the neighbourhood well, and who will be happy to act as cicerone.

The distance from Hawkshead to Ambleside is 5m., to Coniston 4m., and to the Ferry on Windermere 4m.

The road to the Ferry runs by the side of the lake, and mounts some high ground at Sawrey, where a pleasant view is obtained of most of Windermere Lake. A quick descent leads to the Ferry Hotel, where a steamer may be gained for Ambleside.

Hawkshead is often visited by tourists, who drive from Bowness to Coniston, a distance of 9m.

Ambleside to Nab Scar (1300), Fairfield (2863), Rydal Head (2698), Dove Crag (2500), and Red Screes (2540).

Rydal, 14m.; Nab Scar, 3m.; Fairfield, 6m.; Dove Crag, 7m.; Red Screes, 10m.; Ambleside, 14m. Time, 7 hours.

This is the best mountain excursion which can be taken by visitors stationed at Ambleside, and it is one of the most enjoyable to be had in the Lake District. Those who think the whole round too laborious, may shorten the journey by descending along the height dividing the Rydal and Scandale glens, or a descent may be made into either of those glens. Those who dare not attempt Fairfield, should endeavour to ascend Nab Scar, whence a fine view is to be gained. All who are capable of a good mountain climb are, however, strongly recommended to undertake the whole journey, in the order hereafter described. First ascending Nab Scar,

and walking along the top of the ridge to Fairfield, then passing over Rydal Head and Dove Crag, the heights at the head of the Rydal and Scandale glens, to the summit of Red Screes, whence a descent may be made into the Kirkstone road, a short distance from Ambleside.

This expedition is pleasantly commenced by following the coach-road to Rydal village. When 1m. from Ambleside, a view is had up Rydal Park to the summit of Fairfield, and the whole ridge is in sight from Nab Scar. After passing Pelter Bridge, take the wide, clean carriage-road on the right, which leads by the Church, Rydal Hall, and Rydal Mount. When 100 yards beyond Rydal Mount bend to the left round a farm-building, and mount the fell between stone walls. The end of Nab Scar is seen directly above. Windermere Lake comes in sight at once, and remains visible during almost the whole journey.

Having passed over some wooden railing and a stonestep stile, the walls end. Here walk some 30 yards to the left until under a rock, and a charming view will be obtained of Rydal Lake, and part of Grasmere Lake, with the Coniston, Crinkle Crags, and Bow Fell mountains in the distance. A toilsome climb up a steep grassy slope, with the Rydal Glen in sight on the right, lands the tourist on the rocky end of Nab Scar, where he will see the Windermere, Esthwaite, Coniston, Rydal, and Grasmere lakes; Elterwater Tarn, and portions of Blelham and Easedale tarns, with arms of the sea. lovely village of Grasmere lies below. In the distance are numerous mountains, with Harrison Stickle, one of the Langdale Pikes, and Pavey Ark, very distinct, just to the right and in front of Bow Fell.

The

A wall has now to be scrambled over, a slight depression crossed, and another climb leads to the top of Heron Pike (2000). Here the pedestrian will be joined by any fellow-traveller who may be on horseback. Owing to the obstruction of stone walls, horses cannot get to the top of the end of Nab Scar. They have to continue form. along the road which runs up the

Rydal Glen, until at a gate the walls are passed. Then an ascent has to be made to the left, where another gate leads through some wire fencing, and the top of the ridge is gained, and the horses can reach Fairfield from thence, and return by the Scandale Fell. From the point now attained Fairfield is observed at the left-hand side of the head of Rydal Glen, and the whole way to the top is in view. A slight descent has to be made, and then a rise over Great Rigg, and again a drop of a few feet, before the summit is reached. To the left of Fairfield are observed Seat Sandal, and Dolly Waggon Pike, which is a part of the Helvellyn range; and to the right, Rydal Head, Scandale Fell, Red Screes, and Wansfell Pike. Scawfell Pike, Great End, and Grisedale Pike, are also seen. During the remainder of this exhilarating ascent the tourist is favoured with grand and ever-varying prospects. Most of the lakes and mountains already enumerated are in sight, and other heights appear at every step. On attaining the top of Great Rigg, the wild cliffs on the E. side of Helvellyn range present themselves, with the peaked summit of Catchedecam peering over the narrow ridge of the famous Striding. Edge.

High Street and Ill Bell rise on the right; and on the left, Great Gable, Pillar, High Stile, the mountain cluster surrounding Newlands Vale, and a part of Skiddaw.

On reaching the cairn situated on the broad, flat top of Fairfield, if the atmosphere be clear, the tourist will soon forget the toil of the ascent on beholding the glorious coup d'œil spread all around.

Glittering in the sun in the hollows of the low ranges of hills to the S. are Windermere, Esthwaite, Coniston, Blelham, Elterwater, and numerous inlets of the sea. By changing the position a few yards, a part of Grasmere is seen, and nestling amongst the hills to the right, are the Easedale and Codale tarns. The Wetherlam and Coniston group of mountains show to great advantage.