Castel Capuano, founded by William I., on the designs of Buono, was completed in 1231 by Frederick II. from those of Fuccio. It was the Palace of the Suabian, and occasionally of the Angevine sovereigns. The murder of Sergianni Caracciolo, the Grand Seneschal and favourite of Joanna II., by order of Covella Ruffo, Duchess of Sessa, took place within its walls on the night of the 25th of August, 1432, after a ball. Covella came out of the ballroom to see her victim, and stamped on his bloody corpse. Don Pedro di Toledo, in 1540, converted it into a palace, and established here the different law-courts which were scattered through the city, and which still hold their sittings within it. They consist of several rooms, opening out of two large halls on the first floor; the latter, constantly filled with lawyers and litigants, offer one of the very busy scenes in Naples. From the Criminal Court a stair leads to the cells on the ground and lower floors, which are capable of receiving many hundred inmates, and acquired, under the later Bourbon sovereigns, an unfortunate celebrity as the Prisons. Considerable improvements have been introduced here, as in the other prisons.

Castel dell' Ovo, so called from its | tise the same treacherous manœuvre egg shape, stands on the small island upon Charles Durazzo was rewarded which Pliny describes under the name by the Count of Savoy with the loss of of Megaris, and is now joined to the his head. The castle was besieged in mainland of Pizzofalcone by a cause- 1495 by Ferdinand II. after it had surway on arches. Some antiquaries rendered to Charles VIII. of France, supposed Lucullus to have had a villa and was reduced to ruin by his soldiers; on this island, and identified it with the it was probably restored by Pedro di Castrum Lucullanum of the 5th cent., to Toledo (1532-1554). It is now used which Odoacer consigned Romulus as a barrack and military prison. Augustulus on the fall of the Western empire. Others have placed the Castrum Lucullanum at Nisita, and Mazzocchi extended it to the whole shore of the Bagnoli, and even to the Lake of Agnano. But Chiarito has shown that it was on the hill of Pizzofalcone, which in the middle ages was also called Echya, Emplu, &c. In the 4th cent. this island was given by Constantine to the Church, and was called the Isola di S. Salvatore. The castle was founded in 1154 by William I. on the designs of Maestro Buono. It was continued by Frederick II., who held within its walls a general parliament in 1218, and in 1221 intrusted the work to Niccolò da Pisa; it was completed, however, as Vasari tells us, by his contemporary Fuccio. Charles I. added considerably to the castle, and made it occasionally a royal residence. Robert the Wise employed Giotto to decorate its chapel with frescos, no trace of which now remains. Friendly interviews took place in the castle between Giotto and his royal patron, who seems to have been always happy in the society of the witty painter. A century later, when Charles Durazzo was besieged by Louis of Anjou, the castle appears to have been a place of some strength, from Froissart's statement: "It is one of the strongest castles in the world, and stands by enchantment in the sea, so that it is impossible to take it but by necromancy, or by the help of the devil." This allusion to necromancy was probably suggested by the fate of the magician described in the same chronicles, who had, by means of his enchantments, caused "the sea to swell so high," that he enabled Charles Durazzo to capture within the castle "the queen (Joanna) of Naples and Sir Otho de Brunswick;" and whose offer to prac

Castel Sant' Elmo, called in the 14th cent. Sant' Erasmo, from a chapel dedicated to that Saint, which once crowned the summit of the hill. The origin of the name Ermo has given rise to controversy; some writers derive it from the Erma, said to have stood on the spot to mark the division of the territories of Neapolis and Puteoli; and others from S. Antelmo, one of the founders of the Carthusian order. The castle was founded by Robert the Wise

in 1329. The king's commission to the political persecutions in 1796 it his grand chamberlain Giovanni di was here that many of the most disHaya to construct a "fortified palace tinguished patriots were immured by on this hill still exists. The archi-order of Queen Caroline and Cardinal tect was Giacomo de Sanctis. A cen- Ruffo.

§ 11. PRINCIPAL STREETS AND PUBLIC

PLACES.

tury later, under Ferdinand I., it was known as the Castello di S. Martino, from the neighbouring monastery. This monarch employed as engineer and architect Antonio da Settignano, and his friend Andrea da Fiesole, upon The Villa Reale, or, as it is now called, its works. From this period to the the Villa Nazionale, along the Riviera middle of the 16th cent. no particulars di Chiaia, is the favourite promenade of its history have been preserved, and of Naples. It is about a mile in nothing more is known than that Don length, and forms a long narrow strip, Pedro de Toledo built the castle in its separated from the Riviera di Chiaia present form upon the plans of Luigi by an iron railing. The ground is Scriva. Some additions were made to divided into walks, planted chiefly with the castle in 1641 by the Duke de acacias and evergreen oaks. One part Medina; and with these exceptions, we of it contains a shrubbery of deciprobably see the very building erected duous plants and evergreens, with by Pedro de Toledo. Sant' Elmo is too some Australian shrubs, date-palms, conspicuous a feature in the landscape bananas, &c. The Villa was first laid of Naples to require a detailed descrip- out in 1780, to nearly half its present tion. Its enormous walls, with the length; and was added to in 1807 and counterscarp and fosses cut in the solid 1834. In 1877 the sea-wall from Santa tufa, and the mines and subterranean Lucia to near the Palazzo Barbaia, at passages with which it is said to abound, the further end of the Mergellina, was formerly obtained for it the reputa- completed and part of the roadway tion of great strength; but it is no opened, by which the Villa Nazionale longer capable of offering any effec- has been more than doubled in breadth. tual resistance to a combined at-The first half is in the Italian style, tack by sea and land. Beneath it, the remainder is an attempt to imitate in the tufa rock, is a large cistern. the less formal pleasure-grounds of The view from the ramparts is very England, by the introduction of windfine, embracing not only the city and ing paths, grottos, a loggia towards its bay, but Misenum, Ischia, and the the sea, and two small temples to district of the Phlegræan Fields to Virgil and Tasso. The large granite the W. Since the fall of the Bourbon basin which forms the central fountain, dynasty the Castle of St. Elmo has been where formerly the Toro Farnese dismantled, and is employed as a stood, was removed in 1825 from military prison. In order to obtain Salerno, where it had been brought admission, and enjoy the view from from Pæstum by King Roger. The the ramparts, it is necessary to write Toro Farnese was then removed one's name in a book kept for the pur- to the Museum, as it was found pose, and ask for permission to enter. that the sea air was injurious to the marble, its place being now occupied by a colossal statue of Vico, the author of the Scienza Nuova. Several other ancient statues were removed at the same time, and replaced by indifferent copies of some of the admired works of antiquity. The statue of Gen. Colletta, the historian of Naples, was erected by public subscription. The military bands per

Castel del Carmine, a massive pile, founded by Ferdinand I. in 1484, when he extended the walls of the city, and erected most of the modern gates, and enlarged by Don Pedro de Toledo, is now used as barracks and military prisons. It was the stronghold of the populace in Masaniello's insurrection in 1647; after that event it was fortified: during

In these gardens are situated the Aquarium (entrance 1 fr.; for description see p. 143), very well worth a

visit.

form in the centre of this villa in the I on what was the western fosse or ditch afternoon in winter, and in the evening of the old city. It runs N. and S., and in summer, and attract a large number separates the Naples of the middle of people. Near to the rond-point, where ages, which lay between it and the they play, are several cafés. Castel del Carmine, from the modern city, which extends to the westward along the S. slopes of Sant' Elmo and the Chiaia. It is the greatest thoroughfare in Naples, and the site of the principal shops; from morning to night it is thronged with people and with carriages, and it is the busy life with which it swarms, and not its buildings, which are in no way remarkable, that has given it a world-wide fame. Since the annexation of Rome, in 1870, the familiar name of Toledo has been exchanged for that of Strada di Roma.

The Riviera di Chiaia, of which the Villa Nazionale may be said to form a part, was begun by the Count d'Olivares, and completed by the Duke de Medina Celi, the last of the Spanish viceroys. The carriage-road is the fashionable afternoon or evening drive, and between it and the gardens is a riding-path.

The Marinella, a long, open beach, extending from the port by the Castel

The Chiatamone, with the new promenade extending in front of it close to the sea, runs immediately under the|del Carmine to the Ponte della Maddaheight of Pizzofalcone, and joins the

Quay of Santa Lucia, one of the fishmarkets, especially for oysters and many varieties of shell-fish, of which the Neapolitans are extremely fond. It was once a very dirty street; but it was enlarged and widened as we now see it in 1846. It has a fountain adorned with statues and bas-reliefs by Domenico d'Auria and Giovanni da Nola. One of the bas-reliefs represents Neptune and Amphitrite, the other a contest of sea divinities for the possession of a nymph. The Quay of S. Lucia affords a curious and amusing picture of Neapolitan manners and customs, especially on a summer evening. Down the steps towards the sea is the mineral spring, and an osteria, where a native feast of oysters and wine may be indulged in at a cheap rate. The steamboats for Capri start from this point.

The Toledo, now officially called the Strada di Roma. This main artery of Naples, is about 1 m. in length, from the end of the Piazza del Plebescito to the Museum; and if we include the Strada di Capodimonte, as far as the Ponte della Sanità, its length is nearly 2 m. It was built in 1540 by the Viceroy Don Pedro de Toledo,

lena, was once the headquarters of the Lazzaroni, a class which is now almost extinct, or at least has lost those distinctive features which travellers half a century ago so graphically described. The Giardino del Popolo now occupies a portion of this space.

The Molo, built in 1302 by Charles II., is one of the favourite promenades of the seafaring classes, where we may see on every afternoon the national character developed without any restraint. Till within a few years ago the Molo was the favourite resort of the Cantastorie, who read, sang, and gesticulated tales of Rinaldo and his Paladins, out of a mediæval poem called Il Rinaldo, to a motley audience seated on planks or standing. The Cantastorie are now to be found on the shore of the Marinella beyond the Molo Piccolo. In the later part of the last cent. the Molo was often resorted to by Padre Rocco, the Dominican, of whose influence over his excitable audience many anecdotes are told. sion, it is related, he preached on this mole a penitential sermon, and introduced so many illustrations of terror that he soon brought his hearers to their knees. While they were thus showing every sign of contrition, he cried out, "Now all you who sincerely

On one осса

repent of your sins, hold up your for the most part carefully attended hands." Every man in the vast multi-to. tude immediately stretched out both his hands. "Holy Archangel Michael," exclaimed Rocco, "thou who with thine adamantine sword standest at the right of the judgment-seat of God, hew me off every hand which has been raised hypocritically." In an instant every hand dropped, and Rocco of course poured forth a fresh torrent of eloquent invective against their sins and their deceit.

The Largo del Castello, now Piazza del Municipio, is the largest square in Naples, and is now prettily laid out with trees and gardens. It is one of the busiest centres of traffic in the city. On the upper side is the vast building called the Palazzo del Municipio. A passage leads through the building to the Strada di Roma, with an entrance to the Bourse on the right. In this square are situated the Teatro della Fenice, the Teatro Filarmonico, and the Teatro S. Carlino. It contains a foun

The Corso Vittorio Emanuele is a new wide road running round the heights above the town, from the In-tain, called the Fontana degli Specchi, frascata to Piedigrotta; it can be reached from the Chiaia by another fine new road, the Corso Principe Amedeo, which leaves the Chiaia close to S. Maria in Portico. It commands beautiful views

or the Fountain of Mirrors. Leading from this square into the Strada del Molo, is the small

of the city and the new hotels are being Strada Medina. built in this quarter.

Among some of the largest and busiest streets of Naples may be mentioned the Strada di Chiaia, and its continuation, the Strada S. Caterina, leading from the Piazza del Plebiscito, to the Chiaia; the Strada Medina, leading from the Castel Nuovo into the Strada Montoliveto, in which are the Post and Telegraph Offices; the Strada del Duomo, a street recently cut through the old part of the town from the Marinella to the Piazza Cavour, near the Museum, passing by the Cathedral; the Strada de Tribunali, and the Strada S. Trinità, both traversing the old town at right angles to the Strada del Duomo; the Strada Principessa Margherita, a new street from the Marina to the old part of the city; and many others farther from

the centre of the town.

Largo Medina, at the end of the In it is the finest fountain in Naples, called the Fontana Medina, built by the Viceroy Domenico Auria and Fansaga. It conde Medina, 1695, from the designs of sists of a large shell, sustained by four four sea-horses, with Neptune in the satyrs; in the centre of the shell are midst of them throwing up water from the points of his trident. At the base are four tritons seated on sea-horses, with lions and other animals discharging water from their mouths.

Largo di S. Domenico, in the Strada dei Tribunali, has in the centre an obelisk surmounted by a statue of S. Dominick, by Fansaga: the palaces around are, on the W. Pal. Galbiati, on the S. Pal. Casacalenda, and on the E. Pal, Corigliano and San Severo.

the Strada Trinità Maggiore, has in Largo del Gesù, or S. Trinità, in its centre the obelisk called the Guglia della Concezione, erected in 1747, from the designs of Genoino. It supports a statue of the Virgin in gilt bronze. The obelisk is covered with sculptured ornaments by Bottiglieri and Pagano, in the worst possible taste. The colossal bronze statue of Philip IV. by Lorenzo Vaccaro, which formerly stood in this Largo, was de

stroyed by the Austrians in the beginning of the last century. Near this is the Largo di Montoliveto, with a fountain, designed by Cufaro in 1668, and ornamented with a bronze statue of Charles III.

Largo del Mercato, near the ch. of the Carmine. A great iron building has been erected here for the market held every Monday and Friday, which offers many facilities for studying the costumes of the lower orders. It is also the most historical Square of Naples, the scene of the tragedy of Conradin in 1268, of the insurrection of Masaniello in 1647, and of the executions in 1799. There are three fountains, the most important of which is called the Fontana di Masaniello.

Prince of Salerno, now of the Military Commandant, and of the Prefect of Naples; the fourth, forming a semicircle, is occupied by the church of S. Francesco di Paola and the porticos leading to it. In the middle of the square are two colossal equestrian bronze statues of Charles III. and of Ferdinand I. of Bourbon. The two horses and the statue of Charles are by Canova; the statue of Ferdinand by Calì. The history of the figure of Charles is an epitome of the political changes of Naples itself. It was originally modelled as a statue of Napoleon; it was afterwards altered into one of Murat, and was finally converted into that of Charles. In the small square of the Royal Palace beyond the Theatre of S. Carlo, on each side of the entrance to the gardens, are two statues, by Russian artists, of horses in bronze, cast at Petersburg, and presented to Ferdinand II. by the Emperor Nicholas of Russia in recollection of his reception in 1844: each is held by a naked

Largo dello Spirito Santo, or del Mercatello, at the top of the Str. di Roma. It contains the monument erected in 1757 by the city of Naples in honour of Charles III. It was designed by Vanvitelli, and consists of a hemicycle sur-male figure. In the same gardens is mounted by a marble balustrade with an Artesian well (see below), producing 26 statues representing the virtues of nearly 300,000 gallons of water every that sovereign. A statue of Dante has 24 hours. been erected here, and the square is now in consequence called the Piazza Dante. Behind in a semicircle stretches the Liceo, formerly the Jesuits' College of S. Sebastiano.

Piazza del Pennino, or della Selleria, contains the Fontana dell' Atlante, constructed in 1532, by Don Pedro de Toledo, from the designs of LuigImpò. The statue of Atlas by Giovanni da Nola, which gave name to the fountain, has disappeared; but the dolphins which remain are by him. In the Vico Canalone near this Largo is the Fontana dei Serpi, from the basrelief of an antique head of Medusa with serpents.

Piazza del Plebiscito, formerly del Palazzo Reale. This spacious piazza was reduced to its present form in 1810,

when four convents which formerly stood upon the site were removed. On one of its sides is the Royal Palace; on two others are the Palaces of the

Largo della Vittoria, at the eastern entrance to the public gardens of the Villa Nazionale, has undergone a considerable extension towards the sea. In the centre is a fountain, supplied from an Artesian well sunk in 1859.

Piazza della Pace, and Largo di Cappella, a large open space, that is now generally called the Piazzi de Martiri, from which run the 3 streets della Pace, di Chiaia, and Sta. Caterina. On three of its sides are the Nunziante, Calabritto, and Partanna Palaces; and in the centre a marble column having 4 colossal lions at its base, formerly intended as an offering to Peace, but now dedicated to the Neapolitans who perished in the war of Independence.

§ 12. WATER-SUPPLY, FOUNTAINS, ETC.

The Acqua di Carmignano, the modern aqueduct of Naples, was constructed by