the hill of Camaldoli is the village of Soccavo (sub cavo montis). The descent on this side, over the bare brown desolate hills which succeed the wooded regions, and afterwards through close lanes to Antignano, is one of the most striking features of this excursion. From Antignano a road on the rt. goes to Capodimonte; another on the I. ascends to the Castle of S. Elmo, and thence returning by the Ruffo, Lucia, and Floridiana Villas, falls into the main road proceeding from Antignano to the Vomero at the Villa Belvedere. A steep descent, called Salita del Vomero, leads from this point to the Chiaia. Here the road takes the name of the Strada Belvedere; it passes the Villa Regina, and traverses the crest of the Collina di Chiaia until it joins the hill of Posilipo, passing, near the point where it turns S., the Villa Ricciardi on the rt., and on the 1. the Villa Tricase and the Villa Patrizi. At the latter place it is joined by the Salita di S. Antonio di Posilipo, which ascends from the Mergellina, passing near Virgil's tomb. Thus far the road has followed the direction of the old Via Antiniana leading from Pozzuoli to Naples, considerable remains of which can still be seen descending on the rt. to Fuorigrotta, on reaching the high ground above this village. Here we command an extensive view of the W. district, which will give us a correct idea of the locality, and enable us to trace the ancient and the modern roads. -those to the Lake of Agnano, the ancient one by Monte Olibano, the Rivera road to Bagnoli, the hill of the Camaldoli, the summits of the Solfatara, the Monti Leucogei, the site of Baiæ, the promontory of Misenum, the intervening flat of the Mare Morto, the island of Procida, and that of Ischia rising with its pointed peak of Epomeo behind it. della Sanità, from which there is a DRIVE 9.-Str. Ponte Rossi - Str. di Foria. The first part of this drive is the same as No. 7. It then winds round the E. side of the hill of Capodimonte, reaching at its base the Ponti Rossi (p. 90), and enters the Str. Foria, near the Albergo de' Poveri (p. 144) and the Botanical Gardens (p. 142). It may be prolonged to the Porta S.Gennaro and the Campi Santi (p. 140). DRIVE 10.-Villa Gallo-Valley of the Camaldoli. The first part of this drive is the same as No. 7. It then turns W. from Capodimonte, and passes by the Villa Gallo (p. 179), and through the valley between the Vomero and the Camaldoli, affording beautiful views of the country and the bay. DRIVE 11.-The Marina-and N.E. side of the Bay. This drive leads all along the Marina and by the side of the bay to Portici, Resina (Exc. i), &c., but the view of the sea is shut out by the houses that line the road, and it is not to be recommended as a pleasant drive. DRIVE 12.-Poggia Reale-Campi Santi. This drive leads by a long straight road, beyond the Porta Capuana, to Poggia Reale, one of the favourite promenades of the lower orders, planted with trees and embellished with fountains, and preserving the name of a favourite retreat of many successive kings of the Anjou and Aragonese dynasties. At the close of the 15th cent. Alfonso II. built a palace on the spot, and surrounded it with grounds and gardens which extended to the sea. In the 17th the Duc de Guise described the spot as one of DRIVE 7.-Str. Nuova di Capo- the most beautiful in the world, but it dimonte. This road starts from the was destroyed in the military operaMuseum, and after crossing the Ponte | tions of which Naples was subsequently Following the ridge of the hill, and traversing the small villages of Posilipo and Santo Strato, the road falls into the Strada Nuova nearly opposite the Punta di Coroglio. the theatre. The grounds have been changed into market gardens, which supply Naples with vegetables; of the palace there are only remaining a few crumbling ruins. At the Barriera Doganale a road on the 1., encircling the Camposanto Nuovo (p. 140), ascends to Capo di Chino, and joins the carriageroads from Caserta and Capua; a road on the rt. leads to Barra, S Jorio, and Portici, by which we can return to Naples. The latter drive may be prolonged by taking the road which we cross just before reaching Barra, and following it to Cercola and the Madonna dell' Arco and visiting the Villa Santangelo in the village of Pollena, on the N.W. flanks of Somma, a country residence of considerable elegance and taste. 6th Day.-Museum, upper floor; and Churches of S. Giovanni a Carbonara, S. Maria l'Annunziata, and SS. Severino and Sosio, and the Palazzo Santangelo. § 25. EXCURSIONS. The charm of Naples consists chiefly if not entirely, in the beauty of the surrounding country. Visitors, therefore, are advised to spend as much of their time as they can outside the city. Most of the excursions can be accomplished in one day, and in winter time it is better if possible to return to the city at night, as, with a few exceptions, the winter accommodation of the hotels in the neighbouring towns is not very good. In summer time, however, the visitor is recommended to give up his quarters at Naples, leaving only his § 24. PLAN FOR SEEING NAPLES AND heavy luggage behind him, and con THE IMMEDIATE NEIGHBOURHOOD. Those who have plenty of time at their disposal will have no difficulty in arranging their plans so as to see leisurely everything of interest; but for those who have little time to spend, it may be useful to give some hints as to how they may best employ it. The following is a plan for seeing what is most interesting in the city and its immediate neighbourhood in six days. 1st Day.-Excursion to Pompeii. 2nd Day.-Museum, ground floor; drive along the Str. dell' Infrascata and the Corso Vittorio Emanuele, taking on the way the Castel S. Elmo and S. Martino. 3rd Day.-Excursion to Pozzuoli, the Solfatara, Lakes of Lucrinus and Avernus, Baiæ, Misenum, Lake of Fusaro, Cumæ. 4th Day. -Drive about the town and visit all or some of the following: Palazzo Reale, Churches of L'Incoronata, S. Maria Nuova, Monte Oliveto, S. Chiara, S. Domenico Maggiore, S. Lorenzo, S. Filippo Neri, S. Gennaro (the Cathedral), S. Restituta; then to Capodimonte, and continue along Drive 9 or 10. 5th Day.-Excursion to Vesuvius and Herculaneum. tinue the excursions without returning to the city. The frequented routes are safe, but no mountain excursions should be undertaken without previous inquiry, and, if it is necessary, notice being given to the authorities. The following list of excursions that can be made from Naples, may be of use to the traveller. The time given for each is the shortest possible. 1. Vesuvius. This may be combined with Herculaneum. 1 day. 2. Pompeii. This may be combined with Herculaneum. 1 day. 3. Castellammare, Sorrento, and Capri. 2 or 3 days. Capri may be made the subject of a separate excursion from Naples by steamer in 1 day. 4. Amalfi, Salerno, and Pæstum. 2 with No. 3. or 3 days. This may be combined 5. Nola, Avellino, and Monte Vergine. 1 or 2 days. 6. Caserta, S. Maria di Capua, and the Caudine Forks. 1 or 2 days. 7. Pozzuoli, The Solfatara, Monte Nuovo, Avernus, Baiæ, Misenum, Cumæ, &c. 1 or 2 days. 8. Procida and Ischia. 2 days. This may be combined with No. 7. Öther agreeable excursions can be made from Naples either separately, or combined with some one of the above-e.g. Benevento.-The towns at the base of Vesuvius, Barra, San Jorio, San Giorgio di Cremano, Cercola, Sant' Anastasia, Somma, and Ottajano; from Sant' Anastasia and Somma the geologist can examine the Monte Somma, in the ravines descending to these villages, and ascend to its highest point, the Nasone.-San Germano, and Monte Casino:-Isola, Sora, and Arpino (the birthplace of Cicero).-The Phlegræan Craters of Monte Barbaro and Cigliano; as far as Licola and Patria, the Liternum of Scipio Afri canus. EXCURSION I.-VESUVIUS. danger when accompanied by a proper guide, unless the mountain is in a state of eruption, and then great precaution is required. The ascent is of course more interesting and exciting when the mountain is in activity; but the wonderful appearance of the lava streams and the crater, and the magnificent view of the surrounding country, well repay the trouble of reaching the summit, even when all is in repose. The ascent is usually made from Resina. There is a Guides' Bureau in the principal street where guides, horses, and donkeys can be hired at a fixed tariff. Charges: to the foot of the a. Preliminary Hints. b. Portici, Re-crater, guide (one enough for a small sina, and Ascent of Vesuvius. c. History of the Volcano and its eruptions. 4 d. Geology. e. Ascent from Pompeii and other points. f. Herculaneum. a. PRELIMINARY HINTS. party) 6 frs.; horse, 5 frs.; donkey, frs.: to the top of the crater, guide 2 frs. extra; horse, 2 frs. extra for waiting. A gratuity of 2 or 3 frs. is expected by the guide, and a smaller one by the horse or donkey leaders. Chairs (portantine) can be hired for the ascent of the cone, with 8 porters, 60 fr. from Resina, 40 fr. from the Observatory. Porters provided with a rope to drag the travellers up the cone, 3 fr. Provisions should be taken, they can be brought from Naples, or bought at Resina; a porter can be hired at Resina to carry them for 2 or 3 frs. Giovanni Cozzolino is a good guide, with a In going from Naples, the best plan for 2 or 3 persons is to hire a carriage for the whole way to the Observatory. Fare, with 2 horses, 25 fr., 3 horses, 30 fr. The time occupied, including rest, will be about 7 to 8 hrs. In this way a great deal of fatigue is avoided, and Herculaneum easily included on the way back. Or the carriage can be left at Resina, and the ascent from there made on foot, or horse- or donkey-scientific knowledge of the mountain. back. Guides to be procured at the Guides' Bureau at Resina. Another plan advisable for single travellers, and more economical, is to take the railway to Portici, the first station on the Castellammare and Eboli lines, and walk to Resina; but as the ascent of the cone must be done on foot and is very fatiguing, much walking in addition to the hr.'s level walk from the Observatory to the foot of the cone should be avoided. The ascent can also be made on foot or horseback from Pompeii. (See p. 204.) The Neapolitan Tramway Co. has organized a series of stage-coaches from Naples, to and from the Observatory, in which a place may be taken. The ascent of Vesuvius should not be made in stormy or wet weather. It is a fatiguing excursion; but there is no Travellers anxious to secure him should write beforehand, or go direct to his residence, No. 71 Str. Regia di Resina. Those intending to go by railway can order him to have the horses ready at Portici station. He expects a somewhat higher remuneration than the fixed tariff. No attention should be paid to the numerous individuals anxious to offer their services to the traveller. A great-coat or cloak, and a warm neckerchief, to put on as soon as the ascent is effected, a strong walking-stick, or, still better, an alpenstock, and stout boots, may be mentioned as necessary during the excursion. b. PORTICI, RESINA, AND ASCENT OF VESUVIUS. Leaving Naples by carriage, we |