or covered with exquisite bas-reliefs, greaves adorned with sculptures of the same kind, swords of superior workmanship with ivory handles, and numerous articles of female dress and decoration, of the richest kind, proving that the families of the officers lived in the barracks with them. Among the ornaments were two necklaces of massive gold, one of which was set with emeralds, several gold finger-rings, ear-rings, and bracelets containing precious stones, gilt pins for the hair, and chests of fine linen and cloth of gold. One of these upper rooms contained 18 skeletons of men, women, and children, one of an infant, and several of dogs. In the supposed stable near the foot of the staircase was found the skeleton of a horse, the remains of harness with bronze ornaments, and the hay stuffing of a saddle. Under the stairs was a human skeleton carrying cups of silver. Inside one of the entrance gates 34 skeletons were huddled together, perhaps those of killed or badly wounded gladiators. The whole number of skeletons found here was 63 (1766-94). portico of 22 columns on the longer, | floor were found helmets of various and of 17 columns on the shorter sides. kinds, some with vizors, others inlaid It was formerly called the Forum Nundinarium, or weekly market. The columns of the portico are covered with stucco, the lower third plain and painted red, the upper portion fluted and painted alternately red and yellow. Under the portico open numerous apartments of uniform size, a mess-room, a guard-house or prison, a kitchen supplied with the necessary conveniences for cooking, stables for horses, an oil-mill, a room for making soap, and other minor offices. Above was a second floor, approached by three narrow flights of steps, and by one of better construction leading to the chambers which were probably occupied by the officers. This upper floor had a hanging wooden gallery under the roof of the portico. When first excavated, every part of these barracks exhibited reminiscences of gladiatorial life. On the surface of the 9th column of the eastern portico various inscriptions and drawings were found, rudely scratched upon the stucco, including the figure of a fighting gladiator, with his name "Valerius," and the numerals XX to denote, as is supposed, that he had been twenty times victorious. Other scribblings and rude sketches, with several unfinished sentences, were observed in some of the public rooms; and on the wall near the small theatre the names of the three gladiators, Pomponius Faustinus, Ampliatus, and N. Popidius Rufus, were found inscribed. On the walls of the principal apartment on the ground-floor were paintings of two trophies, one of which still exists in the Museum. In the guard-room were found 4 skeletons with their legs fastened into iron stocks; the latter have been removed to Naples and replaced by a model; but the skulls have been allowed to remain. In the sleeping apartments numerous helmets of bronze and iron, richly ornamented sword-belts of bronze, greaves for the legs, shields, bolts for the archers, lances, swords, strigils, leather belts, and various minor articles were discovered. In the officers' rooms on the upper We now return into the Street of Stabiæ, and proceeding a short distance up it, turn to the rt., into a street opposite that of Isis, which will take us in about 8 min. to *The Amphitheatre, situated at the S.E. angle of the city walls, and occupying nearly all the space between the gate leading to Nocera and that to the Sarno. It is more recent, smaller, and less perfect in the substructions of the arena than those of Capua and Pozzuoli, but more ancient than the Coliseum of Rome, which was not opened till the year after the destruction of Pompeii. Its form, as usual, is elliptical. The major axis, including the walls, is 430 ft., being 190 less than that of the Coliseum; the minor axis is 335 ft., 178 less than that of the Coliseum. It has none of those substructions usual in such edi fices, and could not be employed as a naumachia. The masonry is the rough work called opus incertum, with quoins of squared stone; the marble plates must have been removed after the eruption, and nothing of a decorative kind is now visible except a few sculptured key-stones of little interest. The interior contained 24 rows of seats, separated into different ranges, according to the rank of the occupants, each range being approached by a distinct entrance from two different galleries, of which the large one had no less than 40 vomitories, communicating with as many flights of stairs which divided the seats into cunei. To facilitate this arrangement, the arches of entrance were numbered; and the tickets of admission, as may be seen in two examples in the Museum, bore corresponding numbers, so that the spectators could proceed at once to their appointed seats without confusion. The lower range, containing the privileged seats of the Magistrates, was entered by the arcade of the arena; the 2nd, containing the seats for the middle classes, was reached by stairs placed between them and the outer wall; the 3rd, appropriated to the plebeians, was approached likewise by stairs, as was also a gallery placed above all and divided into boxes for the women. Outside the wall of this gallery are the perforated stones for the poles of the velarium. The privileged seats were separated from the arena by a parapet, on which numerous inscriptions were found, recording the names of the Duumviri who had presided over the games, together with several paintings of gladiatorial scenes, all of which have perished or been removed. The entrances at each end of the arena, for the admission of the gladiators and wild beasts and for the removal of the dead, are still perfect. From a measurement of the seats, it is calculated that it could accommodate 10,000 persons, exclusive of standing room. According to Dion Cassius, the citizens were assembled here at the outbreak of the eruption, and it is assumed that this explains the small loss of life, compared with the extent of the population, which the catastrophe appears to have occasioned, for the audience, on quitting this amphitheatre, finding themselves cut off from the rest of the city by the falling ashes, appear to have made their escape; but there is no evidence in support of this, and it seems probable that the city was not so rapidly overwhelmed by the showers of ashes and pumice as to prevent the escape of those who did not voluntarily linger, or whose position did not impede their flight. The amphitheatre, 20 years before, had been the scene of that sanguinary quarrel between the people of Nuceria and the Pompeians, which induced Nero to deprive the latter of theatrical amusements for 10 years (1748-1816). To the N. of the amphitheatre is a square area called The Forum Boarium, and supposed to have been a cattle market; and adjoining it is another square enclosure called The Villa of Julia Felix, from an inscription found among the ruins announcing that the owner, Julia Felix, wished to let, for five years, a bath, a gynecæum, and 90 shops, with terraces and upper chambers. Both these sites, which were two of the first excavated, were covered in again (1754-55). If the visitor returns from the amphitheatre by the carriage-road, he will be able to examine the gate leading to Stabiæ, built of massive blocks of tufa, like those on the side of Herculaneum and Nola, with some polygonal substructions. We have now completed our survey of the city. In the course of our description we have had occasion to notice works of art of high interest in architecture, sculpture, and painting, and to record the discovery of objects which have made us familiar with the religion, the public institutions, the amusements, and the inner life of a people remarkable as much for their intelligence as for their luxury and magnificence. One thing, however, has been wanting; nothing has yet been found to throw any light on the litera ture or the intellectual occupations of the inhabitants. One papyrus-roll only, like those at Herculaneum, has been found; no inscriptions, except dedicatory ones, have been met with; and, save a few lines from Ovid scratched on the walls of the Basilica, and a verse of the Æneid in a house in the Street of Stabiæ, no traces of ancient literature have been discovered. It is, nevertheless, difficult to believe that a city like Pompeii was destitute of literary, collections. As nearly twofifths of the area yet remains to be examined, we may hope that some long-lost literary treasure may be brought to light in the course of the excavations, which are now carried on systematically and with vigour, under the able and zealous direction of the Cav. Fiorelli. if possible, to stay a night at Capri, and return the following day to Naples. This excursion may also be combined with that to Salerno, Amalfi and Pæstum, by going from Capri to Amalfi either direct by boat, or through Sorrento, thence to Salerno and Pæstum, and returning to Naples; or by commencing with Salerno and Pæstum, then to Amalfi, &c. This lengthened excursion will require about 5 or 6 days. There are 8 trains daily from the Central Station at Naples to Castellammare. Distance 27 kil. (17 m.); time 1 hr. Fares, 1st class, 3 fr. 10 c.; 2nd class, 2 fr. 15 c. Small steamers run in the summer between Naples, Castellammare, and Sorrento; and in fine weather a small steamer runs from Sta. Lucia Steps at Naples to Sorrento, thence direct to the Blue Grotto at Capri, and after stopping at the Marina, back to Naples; time occupied about 9 hrs. ; ticket for the round, 12 fr. (or less when an opposition boat is running); inquiry should be made at the hotels, or at the offices on the Molo Piccolo and Str. Piliero. b. CASTELLAMMARE AND NEIGH BOURHOOD. The route from Naples, as far as 20 kil., Torre dell' Annunziata, has been already described (pp. 192 and 208). Here we leave the Eboli line and keep to the rt. near the sea. About halfway to Castellammare the mouth of the Sarno is crossed. Here on the rt. is seen the rocky islet of Rovigliano with an old fort. a. PRELIMINARY HINTS. The excursion will occupy 2 or 3 days, though more may of course very well be spent in visiting the beautiful mountain scenery round Castellammare and Sorrento, both of which towns are very pleasant places to stay in. The best 7 kil. Castellammare Stat. (26,385 plan for those who merely mean to Inhab.). Hotels:-H. Royal, near the make the excursion is to leave Naples railway station and seashore, good and in the morning by train for Castellam- clean ;-H. Grande Bretagna (Pension mare (1 hr.), employ a short time there, Anglaise), on the slope of the hill of if they wish, in visiting the town, and Quisisana, an agreeable, cool, summer then drive to Sorrento (14 hr.), arriv-residence: arrangements for living en ing there in time to make an excursion to some of the interesting points in the neighbourhood. Sleep at Sorrento, and the next morning cross in a boat to Capri, returning the same night and proceeding to Naples. But it is better, [S. Italy.] pension, from 7 frs. a day, can be made at both these hotels;-H. Quisisana, also on the Quisisana hill; Caffè dell' Europa, on the Quay. Donkeys, 4 fr. a day. Castellammare is much frequented S in summer for the sake of its mineral | further strengthened it. The name waters and the coolness of its tempera- of the town often occurs subsequently ture, which is from 8° to 10° lower in the history of the contests for the than that of Naples. possession of S. Italy. Charles II. of Anjou built the royal palace of Quisisana, much resorted to by Joanna II. and the later Bourbons, to whom are due the arsenal and the docks. The town, a long street skirting the sea, with narrow streets leading up the hill from it, presents no object of any great interest. The town is situated on the lower slopes of Monte d'Auro, an offshoot from the limestone range of Monte Sant' Angelo. It is built, for the most part, along a sheltered beach, commanding an extensive view of the Bay from Vesuvius to Misenum. The position of the town protects it from the east winds. It arose from the ruins of Stabia, which was first destroyed by Sylla during the Social War, and afterwards overwhelmed by the great eruption of Vesuvius in A.D. 79. The excavations made upon the site of the ancient city have been filled up several fragments of sculpture, some illegible papyri and paintings, and a few skeletons, were discovered in 1745. No excavations have since been undertaken. The higher ground on the 1. as Castellammare is entered, is the site of Stabiæ, which probably extended from the sea to some distance inland, for numerous remains have been traced almost as far as Gragnano. After its destruction by Sylla, Stabiæ ceased to be mentioned as one of the maritime cities of Campania, and the site appears to have been partially covered by the villas of the Romans, who were attracted to it by its mineral waters and the salubrity of the climate. At Stabia the elder Pliny perished during the eruption which de stroyed Pompeii. Having been unable to approach the shore at Retina, he landed here, at the villa of his friend Pomponianus, but was unable to remain on account of the showers of stones and ashes; and while endeavouring to escape in the direction of the seashore was suffocated by the noxious fumes that filled the air. (Cf. Plin. Lib. VI., Ep. 16.) The modern town dates from the building of the Castello, whence it derives its name, by the Emperor Frederick II. in the 13th cent. Charles I. added walls and towers, and Alfonso I. The Castle has been already referred to. Beatrice, the daughter of Manfred, and sister of Constance queen of Aragon, was confined in it after the battle of Benevento; but was released by the admiral, Ruggiero di Loria, after his victory over the squadron of Charles I. in 1284, when Prince Charles, the king's son, fell into his hands. The Quay presents a busy and animated scene, and along the shore are cotton factories, tanyards, buildingyards, &c. The Port is 3 or 4 fathoms deep, and is protected by a small mole. It contains a naval arsenal and dockyard, where some of the ships of the Italian royal navy are built. The Bay, bounded on the N. W. by Capo Bruno, and on the S.W. by Capo d'Orlando, is deep, with a sandy beach. The Mineral Waters, which have been extolled by Galen, Pliny, and Columella, are still held in high repute by the Neapolitan physicians on account of their efficacy in rheumatic, paralytic, and gouty affections. They flow from the base of Monte d'Auro, and are within a short distance of each other, the principal being on the roadside, opposite the arsenal. Their temperature is moderate, seldom exceeding 65° Fahr. They were analysed a few years ago by a scientific commission. There are 12 springs:- 1. Acqua Ferrata, a mild chalybeate, in some respects similar to that of Tunbridge Wells. It rises at the commencement of the Strada Cantieri. 2. Acqua Rossa, a mild chalybeate, with a small proportion of saline matter. It rises also in the Strada Cantieri. 3. Acqua Ferrata del Pozzillo, the strongest of of sulphuretted hydrogen and carbonic acid gas, with saline matter. It is much used in cutaneous affections; hence the name by which it is designated. 12. Acqua della Tigna, similar to the preceding, and used for the same class of diseases. The Neighbourhood of Castellammare abounds in delightful walks and rides, especially along the declivities of the hill above the town, which are shaded by copses of chestnut trees. In the lower outskirts of the wood lie scattered many pretty villas, several of which are let in the summer. Donkeys for any of the short excursions, 1 or 2 frs. Beautifully situated on the hill, hr. from Castellammare, is the Royal Palace or Casino of Quisisana (ticket for palace (uninteresting) and garden to be ob the chalybeates, containing a larger proportion of iron than the waters of Töplitz, with carbonic acid gas, and a large proportion of salts. It is in repute in cases of general debility. 4. Acqua Ferrata Nuova, a recently discovered chalybeate of a mild character, much used for weak eyes and external application. 5. Acqua Acidola, one of the springs described by Pliny, under the name of Acqua Media, which is now given to the next. It is analogous to the waters of Spa and Pyrmont, and derives its modern name from the acid taste caused by the predominance of carbonic acid gas, with small proportions of saline matter. It is used in calculous complaints. It rises in the Strada Cantieri. 6. Acqua Media, a saline acidulous water, with a large proportion of carbonic acid gas; it re-tained at the Palace at Naples; the park sembles a good deal that of Seltzer, but can be entered without a ticket). The is more agreeable. It is much used in palace stands on the site of a house affections of the stomach and digestive erected by Charles II. of Anjou, who organs, and externally in baths for cu- called it Casa Sana, from the salutaneous diseases. It rises opposite the brity of its climate. Ladislaus and gate of the Arsenal. 7. Acqua della his sister Joanna II. often made it Spaccata, resembling Acqua Media, but their residence during the outbreaks of it is more saline, and emits a smell of sul- the plague of Naples. Ferdinand I., of phuretted hydrogen. 8. Acqua Nuova Bourbon, modernised the edifice, and del Muraglione, a very useful water, acknowledged the benefit which his having some analogy to that of Chelten- health derived from this delicious reham; but containing more saline matter sidence by changing its name to Qui-siand carbonic acid gas. It rises under sana ("here one becomes healthy"). the road which leads to the convent of The grounds around are intersected Pozzano. 9. Acqua Solfureo-Ferrata, a with paths leading to the summit of peculiar combination of a chalybeate and Monte Coppola (hr.) a conical hill saline with a sulphureous water, with a clothed with chestnut-trees, and comlarge proportion of carbonic acid gas. manding fine views of the Bay. The royal It is used both internally and externally. domain, embracing the extensive forest, It issues in a garden near Acqua della descended to the Bourbons of Naples Spaccata, and diffuses an odour of sul- from the Farnese family, whose ancesphuretted hydrogen over the whole tor Pier Luigi purchased the fief of place. 10. Acqua Solfurea del Mu- Castellammare for 50,000 ducats, and raglione, analogous to that of Harro-presented it to his son Ottavio, when gate, but more active on account of its large proportion of saline ingredients. It is in high repute in cases of gout, visceral obstructions, and cutaneous diseases, and is celebrated among the Italians for its power of relieving obesity. It rises about 100 yards outside the town, and 50 from the sea. 11. Acqua della Rogna, a water containing traces the latter married Margaret, a natural daughter of Charles V. It is now used as a shooting box. In returning from Quisisana it will take hr. more to visit The Convent of Pozzano, founded by Gonsalvo de Cordova in the 16th cent., and occupying the site of a temple of Diana. The wooden cross in front |