of the Neapolitan antiquaries that the heads were formed from casts taken after death. Near the Lake of Licola a Greek tomb has been excavated which contained stucco bas-reliefs of the Judgment of Minos, and the Delights of Elysium. Those who devote a separate day to the excursion to the northern craters and Cuma may have time to continue their route to Liternum, though there is nothing to attract the ordinary traveller. [Liternum. The road from Cume to Liternum (6 m.) follows the Via Domitiana. It is bordered by tombs for a short distance after leaving the city, and in one place are the remains of a hemicycle, with seats, which was decorated with paintings. The ancient pavement of massive blocks of tufa is still perfect in many parts. The Lake of Licola, near which the road passes soon after it leaves Cumæ, is not mentioned by any ancient writer; it has been supposed that it is a part of the canal begun by Nero for the purpose of connecting Avernus with the Tiber, which made Tacitus describe its author as the incredibilium cupitor. The lake is one of the causes of the malaria which afflicts this part of the coast in the summer and autumn. The forests around Licola were the royal chase of Frederick II. The mountain on the rt., called Monte Gaudo, is mentioned by Pliny for its intoxicating waters. The Forest of Hama, the Trivia Lucus of Virgil, is identified with a wood N. of Cuma towards Liternum. Livy mentions it as celebrated for its nocturnal sacrifices, and for the treachery and subsequent massacre of the Campanians, who endeavoured to gain possession of Cuma under the pretence of attending the solemnities in this sacred grove. Liternum, a name imperishably associated with that of Scipio Africanus, is now represented by the Tower of Patria, situated near the bridge by which the Domitian Way crossed the canal connecting the ancient port, now called the Lago di Patria, with the sea. It was occupied (about 200 B.C.) by a Roman colony, subsequently increased by Augustus, in whose reign Agrippa enlarged and restored the port and its canal, now converted into a marshy lake. The city was destroyed by Genseric in 455, and not a trace remains of its ancient greatness. Scipio Africanus had here a villa, to which he retired when accused of extortion in the war against Antiochus. Here he died in voluntary exile, B.C. 184. Valerius Maximus tells us that in his dying moments, in the bitterness of his heart at the ingratitude of his countrymen, he ordered to be inscribed upon his tomb-INGRATA PATRIA, NE OSSA QUIDEM MEA HABES. After his death the Romans were anxious to obliterate the remembrance of their past injustice by loading his name and memory with honours. A tomb, surmounted by a statue, had been erected at Liternum on the spot where he was buried. It appears that the Romans were anxious to have it believed that the body had been removed from Liternum, and deposited in the sepulchre of the family at Rome, and this feeling was carried so far that Scipio was even reported to have died at Rome. Livy tells us :- -"Some say that he died and was buried at Rome, outside of the Porta Capena; others that he died and was buried at Liternum; and at both places there are monuments and statues: for there is a monument at Liternum surmounted by a statue which I myself lately saw there after it had been thrown down by a tempest. And beyond the Porta Capena at Rome, in the monument of the Scipios, there are 3 statues, 2 of which are said to be those of Publius and Lucius Scipio; the third, that of the poet Ennius." This description can only apply to the tomb of the Scipios on the Via Appia, and near to the Porta di San Sebastiano at Rome. But no inscription bearing the name of Scipio which bears the mark of his wound on the bald head, was found beneath the tower, and an ancient inscription with the word PATRIA, built into its wall. Three marble statues, larger than life, were also discovered near the lake; one was a female draped figure, the others were males wearing the Roman toga. Before these discoveries, the site of the villa had been placed by some 6 m. inland, at a place called Vico di Pan The Lago di Patria derives its waters from the Clanius, a small sluggish stream now called the Regii Lagni, which drains the plain of the Terra di Lavoro as far inland as Maddaloni, and falls into the sea between the Lake and the Volturno. A further proof of the changes which have taken place upon this coast is seen in the deposits of marine shells along the low cliffs which extend from the Lago del Fusaro to the mouth of the Volturno. Africanus was discovered in that sepul- | di Patria was built of the materials of chre; and, though the laurelled bust now the villa, and on the exact site of the in the Vatican which was found there tomb. The celebrated bust of Scipio, was once believed to be that of Ennius, a subsequent comparison of well-authenticated memorials has not confirmed the supposition. We may also presume that no member of the Scipio family would have removed his body to Rome in defiance of his injunctions to the contrary. Livy himself in a subsequent passage says that Scipio died at Liternum, where, by his own command, he was buried, and where a monument was erected, "lest his funeral should be solemnized tano. in his ungrateful country." Lib. Xxxviii. 53. This statement is confirmed by the evidence of Seneca and of Pliny. Seneca, in his 86th Epistle, gives an interesting description of the villa. "Living," he says, "in the very town of Scipio Africanus, I have adored his spirit and the altar which I suppose to be the tomb of so great a man. . . . I saw his villa, built of squared stone; a wall surrounding the wood, and towers erected on both sides for its defence; a cistern under the house and gardens, large enough for the use even of an army; a small, narrow, and very dark bath after the ancient custom; for a bath did not appear hot to our ancestors unless it was gloomy. I felt therefore a great delight while contemplating Scipio's habits and our own." He then proceeds to say that the bath was lighted by chinks rather than by windows, rima magis quam fenestra, and compares these simple habits with the luxury of the modern Romans. Pliny the naturalist, in his account of the Longevity of Trees, describes, among those which the memory of man carefully cherished, the "olivetrees still existing at Liternum, planted by the hand of Africanus the Elder, and a myrtle of conspicuous size." As the death of Scipio occurred 184 B.C., and that of Pliny in 79 A.D., the olivetrees and the myrtle must have been then upwards of 2 centuries old. A constant tradition has lingered on the spot that the tower now called the Torre Beyond Patria the road traverses the Bosco di Varcaturo, the ancient Sylva Gallinaria, which still abounds with game as in ancient times. The whole of the flat sandy plain, the modern Pineta of Castel Volturno, is covered with lentiscus and pine forests, which supplied the Roman fleet at Misenum with timber for their masts. The Via Domitiana crossed the Volturno near its mouth, and proceeding along the coast fell into the Appian near Sinuessa, the modern Mondragone. The ancient pavement is still to be traced nearly the whole way from Castel Volturno to the latter place.] Returning to Cumæ, and proceeding on foot across the vineyards from the Acropolis of Cume, we reach in about a mile an ancient road, paved with blocks of lava, branching off to the rt. and leading to the tunnel called the Grotta di Pietro Pace, from a Spaniard of that name who explored it in the 16th cent. It is evidently one of the communications cut by Agrippa | early one morning and return the next between Cuma and Avernus before morning; and in the summer to return alluded to. It is paved, and the roof consists mainly of brick masonry. It is passable on foot or in a carriage, but torches are required for the latter, and a large fee is demanded for admission. It may be used as a short cut to avoid passing over the same ground twice, but little is gained by traversing it. Its length is about 3000 ft., and some large chambers and passages branching off exist along its course; its opening towards the E. may be seen on the W. shore of the Lake Avernus (see p. 327). About 500 yards beyond the road leading to this tunnel is The Arco Felice, a massive brick structure, situated in a deep cutting in the tufa hills. It is 60 ft. high to the summit, and is pierced by a single arch 18 ft. in width. The walls are also of brick. On each side of the arch are 3 niches, 2 above, and 1 of a larger size in the basement of each front. Above are the remains of a channel supposed to be that of an aqueduct which was carried over it. The arch may also have served as a bridge uniting the two heights which were separated by the formation of the road. On either side of this road, which still retains many traces of its ancient pavement, are the remains of tombs, in some of which were found sarcophagi and stucco ornaments of great beauty. the same day. Those, however, who make the excursion in the summer, and that is the best time to undertake it, may well, if they can spare the time, employ 3 or 4 days at Ischia, enjoying the natural beauties of the fairest island of the bay. During the bathing season, from June to September, steamers (bureau, 36 Molo Piccolo) go from Naples to Procida, Ischia and Casamicciola in 2 to 3 hrs. daily, at 1 P.M. on Mondays, and Tuesdays also at 8 A.M., returning from Casamicciola daily at 6 A.M., and on Wednesdays and Thursdays at noon. In the height of the season the steamers run regularly twice daily (inquire at the hotels or at the office). Fares-1st cl. 5 fr.; 2nd cl. 34 fr.: return, 1st cl. ticket, 6 fr. The steamers start from near the Immacolatella on the little mole of Porto Grande : 25 c. for small boat to or from steamer at Naples; and 20 c. at Procida, Ischia, or Casamicciola. Sailing market-boats leave Ischia every morning for Naples, calling at Procida, and return the same day: fare, 1 fr.; they take 3 hrs. in a fair wind, 5 to 6 if obliged to row. All the good hotels are in the neighbourhood of the village of Casamicciola. It is well to write beforehand to the proprietor of the hotel you intend going to, and so secure the services of his commissioner, who comes daily to Naples by the early steamer to buy provisions, and returns by the afternoon one. By this means a great deal of bother and trouble with boatmen, porters, and donkey-drivers will be saved. No attention should be paid to touts on board the steamers. As Procida may be examined in a few hours, the OF PROCIDA AND ISCHIA. traveller may land at the beach called a. Preliminary Hints. b. Voyage to the Marina di Santa Maria, and proIschia and Procida. c. General De-ceed by the road which traverses the scription of the Island of Ischia. d. island from N. to S., to the little Bay of Casamicciola and other Towns in the Chiaiolella, where he will find boats Island. to convey him across to the town of Ischia, whence he can proceed on foot or donkey-back in 1 hr. to Casamicciola. If he contemplates combining this excursion with that to Pozzuoli, A short distance beyond the Arco Felice we fall into the road between Baie and Pozzuoli (see p. 324). EXCURSION VIII.-THE ISLANDS a. PRELIMINARY HINTS. This excursion will require 2 days, though it is possible to leave Naples Baix, &c., the best plan is to go to Pro- its terrace the bay of Naples on the one cida and Ischia first, and then cross side, and the bay of Gaeta on the from either of those islands to Milis- other. The town of Procida stretches cola, previously ordering a carriage up the slopes of the castle-hill from from Naples to meet him there (see the seashore in the form of an amp. 333). phitheatre, backed and interspersed with vineyards, orange-groves, and fruitgardens. The houses, with their flat terraced roofs and their out-door stair b. VOYAGE TO ISCHIA-PROCIDA. In fine weather the voyage from cases, remind the traveller of many Naples to Ischia is a most delightful towns in modern Greece. On the E. one. The boat skirts the waterside of the coast is broken into two bays formed the bay to the Punta di Posilipo, thence by the Punta di Monaci, Punta Pizzaca, crosses the entrance to the Gulf of and Punta Socciaro. On the N. point, Pozzuoli, with lovely views over Poz-called Punta di Chiuppeto, at the enzuoli, Nisida, Baiæ, &c., and rounding trance of the channel, is a lighthouse the Capo di Miseno, reaches the marina with a fixed light. Beyond the Punta of Procida, at the foot of its picturesque della Serra, on the W. side, there Castle. PROCIDA (13,582 Inhab. Inns Café del Commercio; Albergo di Campagna; both with very indifferent accommodation, but good wine), the ancient Prochyta, is 2 m. long, and is broken into numerous bays and coves, which give it a picturesque outline. Strabo's statement that it had been torn asunder from its neighbour Ischia is affirmed by Pliny the Naturalist, in opposition to the fable which derived its name from the nurse of Eneas:-Non ab Enea nutrice, sed quia profusa ab Enaria erat. (Lib. iii. c. 12.) The geological structure confirms the tradition of antiquity. The island is composed, like Ischia, of pumiceous tufa, separated by beds of pumice and of fragments of cellular lava, which dip outwards as if they had proceeded from a crater situated on the N.W. Breislak and Spallanzani, from an examination of both islands, arrived at the conclusion that they were once united, and formed part of an immense crater. The N. extremity of Procida is loftier and more picturesque than the S. The bold E. promontory on which the castle is built, justifies the description of Virgil: : is a long beach, 14 m., at the extremity of which is the small crescentshaped Isola Vivara. This S.W. portion is rocky, recalling the description of Statius - The island is richly cultivated with vineyards and fruit-gardens, which supply the markets of the capital, and constitute a source of the prosperity of the inhabitants. The red wines are of a superior quality; but its chief industry consists in shipbuilding, carried on largely here, some of the principal shipowners of S. Italy being natives of Procida. Formerly the women of the island were seen to great advantage in the old Greek costume on certain festival days, especially that of S. Michael on 29th Sept., but the custom has now almost entirely died out, as also that of dancing the tarantella to the sound of the timbrel, except to order. Juvenal preferred the solitude of this island to the dissipations of the Suburra: but were restored on the conclusion of peace between Charles II. and James of Aragon. A road leads from the landing-place to the Piazza, and thence to the castle, whence there is a glorious view over the island and the sea. Descending from the castle, a road leads through the centre of the island in 3 hrs. to the little Bay of Chiaiolella, whence Ischia can be reached in a boat in hr. On leaving the landing-place of Procida the steamer coasts round the N. and W. sides of the island, past the lighthouse above mentioned, and the olive-clad little island of Vivara, whose crescent-shape shows it to be an old crater, torn by some convulsion of nature from its neighbour Procida. We now approach the precipitous rock on which stands the Castle of Ischia like a sentinel guarding the approach to the island, whose beautifully varied outline, clothed with luxuriant vegetation, and crowned by the commanding ridge of Epomeo, presents one of the most lovely pictures it is possible to conceive. Stopping to land passengers at the town of Ischia, the capital of the island (p. 351), the steamer proceeds along the N. coast, past the Bagno d'Ischia (p. 351) to Casamicciola, the usual place of debarkation for visitors to the island, as it is the nearest point to the best hotels. Sometimes in summer the steamer goes on to Forio, on the S. W. coast of the island. c. GENERAL DESCRIPTION OF THE ISLAND OF ISCHIA. THE ISLAND OF ISCHIA, known to the ancients as Pithecusa, Enaria, and Inarime, is the largest in the vicinity of Naples, from which it is distant 20 m. Its circumference is about 20 m., exclusive of the sinuosities of the coast. The length is 5 geog. m.; the breadth, in the widest part, is about 4. The total population of the island is over 24,000. Before Vesuvius resumed its activity, in the 1st cent. of our era, Ischia was the principal site of volcanic action in South Italy. The Monte Epomeo, the Epopos of the Greeks, the Epopeus of the Latin poets, which rises grandly near the centre of the island, appears to have acted chiefly by lateral eruptions, for there is not a trace of lava near its summit, while several volcanic vents. may be distinctly traced on its flanks and in various parts of its declivities. On the N. and W. the island slopes gradually down to the sea, and terminates in a beach, while on the S. and E. it plunges into it, forming abrupt and often lofty precipices. The History of Ischia at an early period is intimately associated with its volcanic action; and the connection of these phenomena with the mythology of antiquity has invested the island with a charm peculiarly its own. A Greek colony from Chalcis and Erythrea settled in the island previous to, or simultaneous with, the foundation of Cumæ. The settlers attained great prosperity, but are said to have been afterwards compelled by constant earthquakes and volcanic agency to leave the island, and settle on the opposite coast at Cumæ. These outbursts are probably the same that are mentioned by Timæus, who lived about 262 B.C., and recorded a tradition that shortly before his time Mt. Epomeus vomited fire and ashes, and that the land between it and the coast was thrown forcibly into the sea, which receded 3 stadia, and then returned, overflowed the land, and extinguished the fire. These events are also related, with some variation, by Pliny, who mentions a tradition that Epomeo emitted flames; that a village was swallowed up; that a marsh was created by one of the earthquakes which accompanied the eruption, and that Procida was detached by another. A colony established by Hieron, the tyrant of Syracuse, no doubt after his great naval victory over the Etruscans in B.C. 474, was also driven away from the island by volcanic outbursts. The |