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the Marchese di Pescara, the conqueror of Francis I., is said to be still in the same state, and with the same furniture and pictures, as when the hero's wife, Vittoria Colonna, inhabited it. There is a small collection of antiquities in the Municipio. Both Vasto and Ortona suffered much in the 14th cent. from the "Free Companions" of Fra Monreale.

6 kil. S. Salvo Stat. (1041 Inhab.) The line now crosses the river Trigno (Trinius), which forms the boundary of the provinces of Abruzzo and Moleto, and reaches

20 kil. Termoli Stat. (3294 Inhab. Inn: Venezia, in the suburb), a dirty town, situated on a promontory be

tween the mouths of the Biferno and

the Sinara. The Castle was built by Frederick II. in 1247. The Cathedral is subsequent to the destruction of the town by the Turks in the 16th cent. There is a beautiful view of the mountains of the Abruzzi. Termoli is the nearest point to the Tremiti Islands (see Rte. 145). A rly. is projected from Termoli to Campobasso, and thence to Solopaca on the Naples and Foggia line. Diligences run daily through Campobasso to Solopaca in 18 hrs. (For de scription of road, see Rte. 145.)

On leaving Termoli the rly. crosses the Biferno (Tifernus), and reaches

grimage to Mte. Casino to implore the
blessing of heaven upon his arms.
After a vain attempt to induce him to
treat for peace, the Normans gave
battle. The issue was not long doubt-
ful; the populace, who had been in-
duced by the preaching of the monks
to join the Pope, soon broke and
fled in disorder; 500 Germans, con-
tributed by the Emp. Henry III., alone
maintained their ground, and, being
surrounded by the Normans, perished
The Pope fled to
almost to a man.
Civitate, but the inhabitants refused to
shelter him, and drove him from their
gates. The Normans immediately ad-
vanced to make him their prisoner;
but they knelt as they approached,
imploring his pardon and benediction.
Leo was conducted to their camp, and
treated with so much respect that he

soon reconciled himself to the northern
invaders, and in the following year
granted to the brothers Humphrey and
Robert Guiscard that memorable in-
vestiture of their conquests in Apulia,
Calabria, and Sicily, which was to
become so important not only to the
Norman rule in Italy, but to the Church

itself.

The line now quits the coast, passing on the 1. the salt-water Lago de Lesina, which lies for 10 m. parallel to the Adriatic pieces of trachyte, basalt, and syenite are found on its shores. The rly. strikes inland to ayoid the striking promontory of Monte Gargano, an offshoot of the Apennines

7 kil. Campomarino Stat. The coun- with several high peaks. try here is less attractive. At

10 kil. Chieuti Stat. we enter the province of Capitinata. 3 m. S. of Chieuti is Serra Capriola (5300 Inhab.), a good-sized town upon a hill, as its name indicates. The village of Chieuti is supposed to occupy the site of Teate Apulum. Crossing the Fortore, the ancient Frento,

15 kil. Poggio Imperiale Stat. The village (1870 Inhab.) stands on one of the western spurs of Monte Gargano. 3 m. distant is the village of Lesina (1522 Inhab.), on the lake of that name.

4 kil. Apricena Stat. (5368 Inhab.), a large village, from which a road leads to S. Nicandro (7895 Inhab.), the saltwater Lago di Varona, and several 11 kil. Ripalta Stat. is reached. In small villages to the slope of M. Garthis neighbourhood a battle between gano. Apricena was a hunting-castle the Normans and the forces of Leo IX. of Frederick II., and is said to derive took place on the 18th June, 1053. its name from the supper, apri cœna, The Pope, who commanded in person, which he gave upon the spot to the commenced his campaign by a pil-members of his hunt in 1225, after he

had killed a wild boar of great size. From Apricena the line runs S. across the plain, crossing the river Candeloro half-way before reaching

11 kil. S. Severo Stat. (17,124 Inhab. -Inn: Locanda d'Italia), a large walled town, the chief of the district. In 1799 it was nearly ruined by the republican army under Gen. Duhesme, in revenge of the gallant resistance which it had offered to him. It was only spared from total destruction at the intercession of the women, who, after 3000 persons had been slaughtered, rushed among the French and implored them either to stay their hand or complete the scene by sacrificing the children and wives of the few men who still survived. The town has recovered from this calamity, and is now one of the most flourishing in Apulia.

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Tivoli Rome.

255

. 283 or 176 miles.

Many of the distances here given are approximative.

A direct carriage-road of 12 m. leads from S. Severo to Foggia over the great Apulian plain, crossing the rivers Friolo, Salsola, and Celone, all descending from the Apennines and emptying themselves into the Candeloro, which is lost in the Pontano Lake. Continu-letta has been made, this route as far ing by the rly.,

14 kil. Motta Stat. is reached, and

14 kil. FOGGIA Junct. Stat. (For description of Foggia, and of the route between it and Naples, see Rte. 146. For continuation of journey to Brindisi and the south, see Rte. 148.)

When the projected rly. from Iso

as Avezzano will be performed by rail. In the mean time there is a diligence every morning for Sora and Avezzano, from the Roccasecca stat. on the Rome

and Naples rly. in 8 hrs. Light carriages may be hired at Sora or Avezzano for Tagliacozzo. The rest of the journey to Arsoli must be done on horseback, and thence carriage to Tivoli.

The scenery of this route is very beautiful; the way of seeing it to the best advantage will be to follow it from Naples to Rome, going up the valley of the Liris. The inns are execrable, indeed, in most places there are none; it will therefore be useful to get letters of introduction to the resident proprietors before leaving Naples.

The following plan of making the excursion is suggested. Leave Naples by the early train for San Germano, visit Monte Casino, and the next morning go on to Roccasecca, and thence by diligence to Sora. On the 3rd day visit Arpino, the falls of the Liris, the island of S. Paolo, the lake of Posta,

and return to Sora. The 4th day ascend | to the small island of San Paolo. Near the valley of the Roveto, visit the Falls it is a ruined arch, the remains of a of Morino or Civita d'Antino, see the Roman bridge which here crossed the entrance of the Claudian Aqueduct be- river. low Capistrello, and the Cunicoli under Monte Salviano, and sleep at Avezzano. On the 5th day visit Celano, the Lago di Fucino and Albe, and reach Tagliacozzo.

At the latter place horses must be procured to proceed to Tivoli. The interesting country along this route, as far as Sora or Avezzano, may be explored as an excursion from Naples. For route from Naples to Roccasecca, see Rte. 140.

Leaving Roccasecca Stat.,

10 kil. Arce (6390 Inhab.) is on the carriage-road from Ceprano to Isola, upon the slope of a hill crowned by a mediæval fortress called Rocca d'Arce. The position of Rocca d' Arce, still occupying the site of the ancient Arx Volsarum, is very striking. It has remains of polygonal walls, and is a picturesque object from all parts of the surrounding country. It was strongly fortified during the middle ages, when it was considered impregnable. It is supposed to be the ancient Arcanum, near which was the villa of Quintus Cicero, mentioned by his brother in his letters to Atticus, and in the dialogues De Legibus: locum æstate umbrosiorem vidi nunquam. Many inscriptions have been discovered in which the names of the family of Cicero occur. Some ruins on the east are called l'Aja di Cicerone, or Cicero's Barn, and a ruined aqueduct is supposed to be that which Quintus employed the architects Messidius and Philoxenus to construct.

From Arce we proceed parallel to the bank of the Liris; but the river is seldom visible from the road. Soon after crossing a sulphurous stream, we see on a hill on the rt. the village of Fontana (2129 Inhab.), and on the 1., beyond the river, Monte S. Giovanni, known for its once vast and wealthy monastery.

At the 4th m. from Arce a road of 4 m. branches off on the rt. to Arpino. Close to the road, a few miles before reaching Isola, the Liris forms a series of rapids, called La Natrella, close

10 kil. Isola (5582 Inhab. - Inn: small, but clean), remarkable for the Falls of the Liris. It is a thriving place, built on a small island surrounded by two branches of the river, at the foot of an elevated platform on which stands the old feudal castle of the former dukes of Sora. The river is divided by this mass of rock into two branches, which rush down from the platform on either side of the castle, forming the principal cascades. The first fall is perpendicular, and is nearly 100 feet high; the second is at the extremity of the town, where the main branch of the river rushes down an inclined plane, many hundred feet in length, forming a majestic combination of cascade and cataract. At the foot of the fall is a cloth manufactory, through which the water is carried to turn the mills.

The finest view of Isola and the upper valley of the Liris as far as Sora is from the hill of S. Giovenale, facing the town on the rt. of the road.

Isola has several cloth, linen, and paper-mills. The traveller cannot fail to be struck with the peculiar beauty of the women of Isola, Sora, and Arpino. They are amongst the handsomest in Italy. Their costume is perfectly Greek. They wear sandals pointed at the toe, red petticoats, and blue and red striped aprons, behind as well as in front, precisely in the manner of the modern Greeks. The pitchers which they carry on their heads are quite classical in their forms. From Isola the traveller may visit Casamari (4 m.) (Rte. 140).

After leaving Isola the road ascends a gentle slope, at the end of which is the Cartiera del Fibreno, the papermanufactory of Mons. Lefebvre, Count of Balzorano, the machinery of which is driven by the Fibreno, which here falls into the Liris. In the gardens of this gentleman are the Cascatelle, or little falls, of the two rivers. Those of the Fibreno, although coming from the

manufactory, are very fine, and would | ipso in loco cum avus viveret, et antiquo

be considered striking in any other place; but those of the Liris are so beautiful as to monopolise admiration. The inclined surface of rock down which the river rushes is broken transversely in five or six places, and at each of these a separate cascade is formed. The Fibrenus is mentioned by Cicero as remarkable for the coldness of its waters. It abounds with

trout.

[About a mile beyond this is the monastery of S. Domenico Abate, on the Isola S. Paolo, an island formed by the Fibreno shortly before its falling into the Liris, and identified with the Insula Arpinas, Cicero's birthplace, the scene of his dialogues De Legibus, and the spot where he composed his orations for Plancius and Scaurus. The ch. was built from the ruins of Cicero's Arpine villa; in its walls, seen from the front garden of the monastery, are several fragments of Doric ornaments, triglyphs, and bas-reliefs. The subterranean ch., said to date from 1030, is curious for its architecture, approaching that of the early Saxon style in England; it is the place where S. Domenico Abate died. The low columns, of granite and marble, with capitals of different orders, were also taken from the ruins of Cicero's villa. At the distance of 10 minutes' walk is an inscription, placed, it is said, many years ago by an English traveller, and now almost illegible, stating that it marks the exact site of the villa, but no remains of foundations are now visible. Cicero was very fond of this island, and in one of his dialogues he reminds Atticus that his ancestors had lived there for many generations, and that his father had rebuilt the villa:-Ego vero, cum licet plures dies abesse, præsertim hoc tempore anni, et amoenitatem hanc et salubritatem sequor; raro autem licet... Hæc est mea et hujus fratris mei germani patria; hic enim orti stirpe antiquissima; hic sacra, hic genus, hic majorum multa vestigia. Quid plura? hanc vides villam, ut nunc quidem est, lautius ædificatam patris nostri studio; qui cum esset infirma valetudine, hic fere ætatem egit in literis. Sed hoc

more parva esset villa, ut illa Curiana in
Sabinis, me scito esse natum; quare inest
nescio quid, et latet in animo ac sensu meo,
quo me plus hic locus fortasse delectet.-
De Leg. ii. 1. In the reply of Atticus
we have a description of the site as
complete and graphic as if it had
been written yesterday:-Sed ventum
in insulam est, hac vero nihil est amœnius,
etenim hoc quasi rostro funditur Fibrenus,
et divisus æqualiter in duas partes, latera
hæc adtuit, rapideque dilapsus cito in unum
confluid, et tantum complectitur quod satis
sit mo icæ palestræ loci; quo effecto, tan-
quam id habuerit, operis ac muneris, ut
hanc nobis efficeret sedem ad disputandum,
statim præcipitat in Lirim, et quasi in
familiam patriciam venerit, amittit nomen
obscurius, Lirimque multo gelidiorem facit;
nec enim aliud hoc frigidius flumen attigi,
quum ad multa adcesserim ut vix pede
tentare id possim. We learn from his
letters to Atticus that Cicero had here
a library which he called Amalthea, in
imitation of the name by which the
great library of Atticus in Epirus was
designated. Martial tells us that the
island afterwards became the property
of Silius Italicus:-

Silius Arpino tandem succurrit agello;
Silius et vatem non minus ipse tulit.
Ep. XI. 49.

Some antiquaries have placed Cicero's villa at Carnello, another small island 1 m. higher up the stream; and the unmistakable description of its situation given by himself, the local inspection of the place showing that the Fibreno falls into the Liris shortly (statim) after forming the island of San Paolo, the remains found on the spot, and the tradition connected with it, leave no doubt whatever on the subject. The great interest that every classical traveller must necessarily attach to a spot so full of associations with the great Roman orator and statesman will be our apology for having entered into these details.

Above the island, crossing the Liris at an oblique angle, are the ruins of a Roman bridge, called the Ponte di Ci cerone. Only one of its three arches is now standing. After seeing the

convent of S. Domenico, travellers, | in the possession of the Vito family before going to Sora, may visit Arpino. records the name of Titus Egnatius, the A road to it (4 m.) turns off soon after friend whom Cicero recommends to passing the paper-mills on the Fibreno, P. Servilius Isauricus as the generous and another lower down from Carnello. companion of his exile, who had shared The views of the fertile and varied with him all the pains, the difficulties, country which it commands, as it and the dangers which he had underwinds gradually up the mountain, are gone during that most unfortunate pevery beautiful. riod of his life. Modern Arpino was the birthplace (about 1560) of Giuseppe Cesari, the painter, better known as the Cav. d'Arpino,whose house is still shown.

[ARPINO, 9 kil. from Isola (11,535 Inhab.-Inn: La Pace), the Volscian city of Arpinum, the birthplace of Cicero and of Caius Marius, two of the most illustrious names in Roman history. Its situation on two hills is so beautiful that we are at no loss to account for the partiality of Cicero, who, in one of his letters to Atticus, applies to it affectionately the description which Homer makes Ulysses give of his beloved Ithaca. The Ch. of San Michele is said to occupy the site of a Temple of the Muses, and nine niches in its walls are supposed to have contained their statues. The Palazzo Castello is the reputed site of the house of Marius, and the Strada della Cortina is pointed out by local tradition as the site of that of Cicero, though there is no authority for supposing that he had any dwelling here, except his native house at S. Paolo. The Palazzo del Comune is decorated with statues of Cicero and Marius; the College is called the Collegio Tulliano; and the armorial shield of the town contains the letters M. T. C.; and the inhabitants still show their veneration for the great orator by frequently giving their sons the Christian names of Marco Tullio. The town has thriving manufactories of paper, ribbons, and cloth. Many inscriptions preserved in the walls of the chs. and other buildings show that the ancient city was also remarkable for its woollen manufacturers and fullers. The Ch. of S. Maria di Civita occupies the site of a temple dedicated to Mercury Lanarius. Cicero's father, according to Dion Cassius, was a fuller, and the name Tullius is of frequent occurrence in these inscriptions, as is that of Fufidius, which is mentioned more than once in Cicero's letters. Another inscription [S. Italy.]

The ancient citadel stands on the summit of the hill above the town, and is still called Civita Vecchia. The ascent is steep, but the ruins will amply repay the trouble. The Cyclopean walls are not so perfect as those of Alatri, as they were built upon and fortified in the middle ages, but enough remains to mark the strength and extent of the massive fortress. The finest relic to be seen here is the pointed gateway called the Porta dell' Arco. It is constructed of enormous polygonal blocks, without cement, gradually converging upwards; and is unique as a gate, although in its general form it bears some similarity to those of Mycena and Tiryns and to certain pointed archways in the Etruscan sepulchres of Cervetri. Near it are the remains of the ancient cloaca, of massive blocks, and in the same polygonal style. Some portions of an ancient pavement, retaining the marks of chariot-wheels, are also visible. The large square tower in the citadel is said to have been for some time the residence of King Ladislaus. Lower down is a fine Roman arch, now used as one of the entrances to the modern town. Of the history of Arpinum we know little more than that it was one of the five Saturnian cities; that about B.C. 302 its inhabitants obtained the Roman citizenship, and B.C. 188 were enrolled in the Cornelian Tribe, and obtained the right of suffrage; and that M. P. Cato and Pompey said it deserved the eternal gratitude of Rome for having given her two saviours. In the 15th cent., at the commencement of the war between Ferdinand I. and John of Anjou, Arpino embraced the Angevin cause, and was attacked and captured by Orsini, the general of Pius

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