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This is somewhat cheaper than the railway, but much more fatiguing, and a strict bargain must be made. It is a convenient way of ascending the mountain from Castellammare. A good pedestrian can ascend the mountain from Resina in 3 hours, but a guide (6 fr.) is necessary, and can be obtained at Resina. Without a guide the stranger will not find the short road across the lava beds.

the church is Early English; the painted windows are by Wailes; the mosaic work of the reredos is by Salviati, the figure of Christ and the bordering being taken from specimens of early Christian art in the Naples Museum.

There is a lending library in connection with the church, in a room behind it. Apply on Sunday morning before service. Donations of books gratefully accepted.

German and French Protestant Church.-Vico Freddo (Str. Poerio). Services on Sundays at 10 A.M., and midday.

Row-boats with 4 oars cost per day about 15 fr.; with 2 oars from Naples Scotch Presbyterian Church.-In the to Portici, 5 fr.; a seat in the market- Largo di Cappella Vecchia. Services boats which sail daily for Sorrento. Cas-on Sunday at 11 A.M., and 3.30 P.M. tellammare, Capri, or Ischia, about 2 fr. § 19. BATHS.-There are bathing establishments in the Str. della Pace; the Largo S. Marco; the Via Belladona a Chiaia; and at the H. di Roma, in the S. Lucia. Hot salt-water baths can be procured at the last-named. They are not recommended by the faculty. Near the Ponte della Maddelena are baths in the river Sebeto.

In using salt-water baths it will be important to ascertain where the water has been obtained, as it is too often taken at the adjoining pier, close to the mouth of one of the most pestilential drains of the city. The best sea-bathing at Naples is to be had by taking a boat (1 fr.) out into the bay. Boats with steps can be found at most of the lauding places. There is an excellent bathing establishment at Posilipo, near the Palazzo Don Anna. The bathing-places in the town are to be avoided on account of the dirt of the water. Persons who require seabathing will do better to go to Sorrento, Capri, or 1schia. Never bathe for two or three days after rain; neglect of this precaution will nearly always be followed by an attack of fever.

Wesleyan Methodist Mission Church, Str. Nardones. Services on Sundays at midday, and 7 P.M. For Roman Catholic Churches, see Description of Naples, § 15.

An English-speaking confessor attends the Church of Santa Caterina à Chiaia during the season.

§ 21. TEACHERS OF LANGUAGES, DRAWING AND MUSIC.-The names and addresses of the best masters can be ascertained at Dorant's, Loescher's, or Detken's Library.

§ 21. SCULPTORS.-B. Cali, in the cloister of San Domenico Maggiore. E. Cali, 269, Riviera di Chiaia. Solari, Via Tribunali 390.

PAINTERS. Smargiassi, 27, Via Gaet. Montella. Guerra, in the Museum. Gonsalvo Carelli, 264, Riviera di Chiaia. Achille Carelli, Corso Via Em. Morelli, 37, Via Pace. Achille Solari, 268, Riviera di Chiaia. Filippo dal Buono, 67, Vico lungo Teatro Nuovo, and at the Museum. Cesare Uva, 265, Riviera di Chiaia. Lanza $ 20. CHURCHES.-Church of Eng-water colours) 38, Chiatamone. Uva land.-Christ Ch., in the Via di S. is one of the best painters in gouache, a Pasquale, opening out of the Chiaia; class of art almost peculiar to Naples. the ground upon which it stands was § 23. PRINCIPAL SIGHTS. - - (N.B. given by the Italian Government. For the best mode of distributing the Services on Sundays at 11 A.M., and time, see § 24 below.) 3.15 P.M.; on festivals, and every Wednesday and Friday at 11 A.M. The chaplain's stipend is now dependent on the pew rents, and on the contributions of visitors. The style of

**Museum.-See p. 144.
Churches.-*Cathedral (p. 109). *Santa
Chiara (p. 119). *S. Domenico
Maggiore (p. 121). S. Filippo
Neri (p. 124). S. Giovanni a Car-

bonara (p. 126). *L'Incoronata | (p. 188). Sant Elmo (p. 99.) Strada (p. 128). S. Lorenzo (p. 129). S. Nuova di Posilipo (p. 183). Belvedere Maria dell' Annunziata (p. 130). of S. Martino (p. 136.)

S. Maria la Nuova (p. 132). *S. Martino (p. 134). Santa Anna (p. 136). *S. Severino (p. 139). Palaces.-Reale (p. 175). Capodimonte (p. 175). Fondi (p. 177). *Gravina (Post Office) (p. 177). *Santangelo (p. 178). Castel Nuovo (p. 97). Catacombs.-p. 91. Cemeteries.-Camposanto Nuovo (p. Theatres.-S. Carlo (p. 105).

140.

The best points of view are Camaldoli

An International Hospital has been established in Vico Stretto dei Miracoli, off the Foria, where a large number of British seamen find relief at moderate cost, and it deserves the patronage of English visitors. The resident Physician and Matron speak English. There is also a suite of private rooms reserved for paying patients. It depends on voluntary subscriptions, which can be paid at the consulate or to any of the English clergy.

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§ 1. GENERAL TOPOGRAPHY. The city of Naples, situated in 40° 52' N. lat. and 14° 15' E. long. from Greenwich, disputes with Constantinople the claim of occupying the most beautiful site in Europe. It is built on the N. shores of the Gulf, which is upwards of 35 English m. in circuit, from the Capo della Campanella on the S.E., to the Capo di Miseno on the N.W.; and more than 52 m. in circuit, if we include the islands of Capri and Ischia, from the Punta Carena, the S. point of Capri, to the Punta dell' Imperatore, the W. point of Ischia.

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24. Plan for seeing Naples and
Neighbourhood.

§ 25. Excursions

The country which lies along the N.E. shores of this Bay is an extensive flat, continuous with the great plain of the Campania Felix. The river Sebeto, Sebetus, flows through it. In ancient times a marsh, it is now under cultivation principally as market gardens, from which the capital derives its very abundant supply of vegetables. Between Naples and the chain of the Apennines, Vesuvius rises insulated in the plain, its lower slopes studded with densely-peopled villages. Along the coast, between Vesuvius and the. sea, are the towns of Portici, Resina,

Torre del Greco, and Torre dell' Annunziata, all, except the last, covering the site of the ancient Herculaneum. Pompeii lies round the S.-E. spur of the mountain, and its site is not visible from Naples. Beyond the Sarno, at the extremity of the plain, and at the point where the coast suddenly bends to the W., is the town of Castellammare, near the site of Stabiæ, at the foot of the Monte Sant' Angelo, the highest point of that mountain range which forms the S.E. boundary of the Bay, an offshoot from the main chain of the Apennines. Between Castellammare and the Capo della Campanella are the towns of Vico, Meta, Sorrento, and Massa. About 4 m. from the extremity of the Promontory lies Capri, which is 17 m. in a direct line from Naples.

The coast to the W. of Naples, as far as the Promontory of Misenum, is more broken and irregular. The Promontory of Posilipo separates the Bay of Naples from that of Baia, and conceals Misenum from the city. Following the coast is the island of Nisida, now used as a quarantine station. Further on, and more inland on the rt., are the extinct craters of the Solfatara, of the Lake of Agnano, and of Astroni. Beyond these, on a tongue of land, stands Pozzuoli; passing which is the Monte Nuovo, and farther still the Lake of Avernus, the Lucrine Lake, the ruins of Cuma. the Lake of Fusaro, Baiæ, the Elysian Fields, the Mare Morto, and the port and promontory of Misenum, from which the best view of the bay and islands is obtained. Beyond Misenum are the islands of Procida and Ischia. The Bay between Ischia and Capri is 14 m. wide, its length from W. to E. is about 15.

Naples itself is built at the base and on the slopes of a range of bills which have the general form of an amphitheatre. This range is divided into two natural depressions by a transverse ridge bearing in its different portions the names of Capodimonte, St. Elmo, and Pizzofalcone, and terminating on the S. in a small promontory on which stands the Castel dell' Ovo. The crescent which lies to

the E. of this ridge includes the largest and most ancient portion of the city, extending from the flanks of Capodimonte and St. Elmo to the Sebeto, and including within its circuit the principal public edifices and establishments. It is intersected from N. to S. by a long street, of which the lower portion is the Toledo or Via Roma; and is perhaps more densely peopled than any town of the same extent in Europe. The crescent on the W. of St. Elmo is the modern city, known as the Chiaia, and commencing with the long Corso Vittorio Emanuele, it is connected with the E. portion by the streets running down from it which occupy the depression between St. Elmo and Pizzofalcone, and by a broad road which extends along the shore at the foot of Pizzofalcone, to the Villa Reale and the Mergellina on the W. This street or quay bears in its various parts the names of Il Gigante, Santa Lucia. Chiatamone, and Vittoria. The Chiaia forms a long and somewhat narrow strip of streets and squares occupying the space between the sea and the lower depressions of the Vomero. A broad street, called the Riviera di Chiaia, running parallel to the shore, bordered on the N. by handsome houses, where many of the foreign visitors reside, and on the S. by the public gardens called the Villa Nazionale, passes along its whole length. At the extremity of tho Chiaia are the quarters of the Piedigrotta and the Mergellina. From the former the Grotta di Posilipo leads to Pozzuoli. From the Mergellina a good road winds over the E. face of the promontory to the same town.

The length of Naples from the Ponte della Maddalena to the Mergellina is 4 m.; the breadth from the Capodimonte to the Castel dell' Ovo, 23 m.

There are more than 1300 streets, in which the houses are regularly numbered. Strada or Via is the term applied to broad streets; Vico, Vicolo, and Vicoletto, are the names respectively for a narrow street, a lane, and an alley; a hilly street leading from the new to the old town, is called Calata or Salita; streets so steep as to require steps, are Gradoni; and

when with many branches, Rampe. Few of the streets bear the name of Via, but here and there the term Rua, a record of the Angevine dynasty, is met with. The larger open spaces formerly called Larghi are now generally designated as Piazze.

They allied themselves with Rome about B.C. 400, and at a later period their walls were so strong as to offer resistance to Pyrrhus, Hannibal, and Spartacus. When the Romans became masters of the world they looked with favour on a Republic which had retained its independence without joining in the wars of other States, which had always afforded a generous asylum to the exiles of Rome, and which possessed an irresistible fascination in the luxuries of its climate and its habits, and in the beauty of its scenery. In the plenitude of the imperial power and of the intellectual greatness of Rome, her emperors, her statesmen, her historians, and her poets took up their residence

§ 2. HISTORICAL TOPOGRAPHY. Some local antiquaries assign a Phoenician origin to Naples, and regard the story of Parthenope, the Syren, as the poetic tradition of the event. Ancient writers, however, agree in representing it as a Greek settlement, though the circumstances of its foundation are obscurely narrated. It seems that a colony of the neighbour-on the shores of Naples. ing Cumæ first settled on the spot, and gave the city which they founded the name of Parthenope; and that subsequently they were joined by a colony of Athenians and Chalcidians, with some settlers from Pithecusa (Ischia), who built a distinct city under the name of Neapolis, or the new town; upon which Parthenope assumed the name of Palapolis, or the old city.

1. During the Greek period.-The testimony of Livy leaves no doubt that Palapolis and Neapolis, though distinct in name, were identical in language, in customs, and in government. But all attempts to define with accuracy their relative extent and situation, in spite of the learning expended upon the task, have failed. It is, however, supposed that a line drawn from the Porto Piccolo on the sea to the Porta Alba, and thence in a semicircle through the Largo delle Pigne and the Porta S. Gennaro, to the Castel del Carmine, would include the site both of Palopolis and Neapolis. Excavations made within this circuit have brought to light Greek substructions, fragments of Greek sculpture, and Greek coins. Of this space, Palopolis is supposed to have occupied the flat coast from the Porto Piccolo to the Castel del Carmine, and to the Porta Nolana inland; while Neapolis occupied the higher ground immediately behind.

At a very early period Palapolis and Neapolis became united as a Republic.

2. Under the Romans.-During the Civil Wars a body of the partisans of Sylla, having entered the city by treachery, massacred most of its inhab. B.C. 82. Augustus is said to have united the two Greek cities, and to have restored their walls and towers. Like Virgil, and other illustrious men of his reign, Augustus resided frequently at Naples, and most of his successors followed his example. Tiberius, during his stay, made the island of Capri infamous by his excesses; Claudius assumed the Greek costume and became an officer of the Republic; Nero acted on its theatre; Titus assumed the office of its Archon, and Hadrian of its Demarch.

3. Under the Goths.-The walls of Naples, which were complete at the invasion of Italy by Odoacer in 476 continued perfect down to that of the Goths under Theodoric, whose successors appear to have exercised a gentle sway at Naples, and to have so strengthened its walls as to make it one of the strongest of the fortified cities of Italy. In 536 it defied the skill and resources of Belisarius, who, however, turning aside its aqueduct, marched his troops into the city through its channel. Besides being laid under subjection to the Eastern Emperors, Naples was sacked and almost depopulated by the conquerors. In 543 the walls resisted the attack of Totila, who, after a protracted siege,

reduced the city by famine, and razed | King of Naples and Sicily. William I. its fortifications.

4. Under the Eastern Emperors.— When the Gothic kingdom had been subdued by Narses, he seized Naples, and made it subject to the Exarchs of Ravenna. It was then governed nominally by dukes appointed by the emperors, but was allowed to retain its own laws, magistracy, and municipal institutions. Under these dukes, the walls were rebuilt to resist the invasion of the Longobards, who besieged the city without success in 581. The imperial authority gradually became so weak that it was unable to prevent the citizens from assuming the right of electing their own governor by the title of Console or Duca.

(the Bad), his son, extended the circuit of the walls, built Castel Capuano and the Castel dell' Ovo. The walls appear to have been completed by his successors William II. and Tancred, inwhose reign the city was unsuccessfully besieged by the Emperor Henry VI., who claimed the kingdom in right of his wife Constance, the only daughter of Roger.

7. Under the Suabians.-Frederick II. founded the University of Naples, and by making the city his residence became also the founder of its greatness and prosperity. In 1253, after a siege of 10 months by Conrad, his son, Naples was compelled by famine to surrender at discretion. Conrad demolished the walls, which were soon after restored 5. Under the Republic and the Lom- and enlarged by Pope Innocent IV. bards. For nearly 400 years after 8. Under the Angevine dynasty.-Chas. Naples threw off the yoke of the East-I. made greater efforts than any of his ern Empire it retained its independence. It was besieged twice by the Longobard dukes of Beneventum; in 815 by Grimoaldus II., who was bought off by the duke Teotistus, a Greek, for 8000 golden solidi; and in 821 by Sicon IV., who was aided by Theodore, the former duke, who had been driven into exile. After a protracted siege the Longobards withdrew, but they compelled Naples to become tributary to the Duchy of Beneventum. In 1027 Pandolfo IV., prince of Capua, besieged and took Naples from Duke Sergius, on account of the hospitality the latter had afforded to Pandolfus Count of Teano. But in 1030 Sergius recovered the city with the aid of the Greeks and of those Norman adventurers who had already begun to make their valour felt in Southern Italy. In reward for the services received, Sergius gave the Normans some land between Capua and Naples, upon which they built Aversa, and of which he conferred on their leader, Rainulfus, the title of Count.

6. Under the Normans.-The Normans made no attempt to possess themselves of Naples till 1130, when Roger besieged it, and after a protracted siege compelled it to surrender. He had the circuit of the walls measured, and found that it was a little more than 2 m. Roger was the same year proclaimed

predecessors to give strength and importance to Naples. He removed the seat of government from Palermo to Naples, extended the city on the E. side as far as the Piazza del Mercato, filled up the marshy tract between the old walls and the sea, and built in 3288 the Castel Nuovo. He also repaired its walls, paved the streets, destroyed the ancient palace of the Neapolitan Republic, began the restoration of the cathedral, and built several churches and monasteries. His son Charles II. built the Molo Grande and the castle of St. Elmo, enlarged the city walls, and strengthened the fortifications on the sea-side. Naples was besieged and captured in 1387 by Louis II. of Anjou; it was again besieged in 1420 by Louis III. of the same family, who was driven off by Alfonso of Aragon, and was besieged and captured by the same Alfonso in 1423. In 1425 the city walls were enlarged towards the sea by Joanna II. Alfonso again besieged the city, though without effect, in 1438, in 1440, and in 1441; but in 1442, after a protracted siege, he entered it through the canal of an aqueduct, called the Pozzo di S. Sofia, which was pointed out to him by two deserters, and thus expelled for ever the Angevine dynasty.

9. Under the Aragonese dynasty.--Fer

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